Transfer case needle bearing removal!

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Worked for about an hour or two trying to remove the race of the TC front output shaft needle bearing. I tried every trick. It is literally fused to the inside of the shaft. I broke several cape chisels. I just couldn't get it bend into itself and release. I ended up taking a grinder wheel on my Dremel to it. I tried to grind a groove, but I never could get an edge.

I ended up just grinding it all the way around, hoping I could get it thin enough to get it to let go. I think I got most of it out, but I hope I didn't mess up the shaft too much.

I thought that was going to be an easy removal. Frustration has set in.
 
I use a tungsten carbide cutting bit on a 21000 rpm die grinder to cut thru a cross-section of the sleeve. Works every time.

Best

Mark
 
Getting it out is only half the fun. Getting the new one in is also a real joy.

Put the new bearing in the freezer overnight, then use the output shaft to press it in. Attempts to "drive " it in often end in an Oh S#!t moment, unless you are VERY careful, have the right tool or just good/lucky.
 
Thanks for the tips. I tried to grind through it, and still couldn't get it to release. It is fused to the shaft. Very hard to tell where the bearing ends and the shaft starts. If my tool gets a "bite" it will just break off a small piece of the bearing. I am worried if I dont get it all out I will "oh Sh#!t moment" redding speaks of.

I took a break last night and went mountain bike riding. I will start fresh and motivated again tonight.
 
Mine wasn't that hard but it did come out in pieces with the help of the Dremel cut off wheel...
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I had to buy a slide hammer to get it out on my split case. This was after a few days of frustration of trying everything. I even tried bread that was discussed on this forum. Felt really dumb for even attempting that method.
 
Many thanks to all that posted in this and other TC rebuild threads. After a good bit of cursing and some new parts I finally got my TC and tranny rebuilt. It was a lot more work than I was expecting. On the tranny, I let a lock ring get off the key when I was putting together, and I had to take it back apart and get some help from a good old boy mechanic. On the TC, I installed the rear output bearing backwards and I had to take it all back apart. I still don't understand how in heck I did that??

I feel like it is done properly and should give years of good service. New bearings, 2 shafts, seals, synchro rings, and one new gear. I have it mated to the rebuilt engine (new clutch kit), and ready to fit it to the frame. Little by little I am getting it done. Next on my list is the wiring harness and an order to Coolerman. I am glad the drivetrain is done.
 
I use a tungsten carbide cutting bit on a 21000 rpm die grinder to cut thru a cross-section of the sleeve. Works every time.

Best

Mark
Mine wasn't that hard but it did come out in pieces with the help of the Dremel cut off wheel...


Old thread but good info. This is why I luv Mud. Thanks Mark and Coolerman for saving me a ton of head scratching when my TC needle bearing came apart trying to pull it with a bearing puller. I couldn't get the race out so searched Mud and 15 minutes later, done.

Tungsten carbide on the Dremel did the trick.

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That little roller is the most miserable to remove. I’ve actually ruined an output shaft because of that POS. I even bought a set of expanding collets for blind hole bearings….it just laughed at me. Now, I also used a Dremel, but used a chain saw sharpening stone, and just accept the fact it’ll get ground out. Getting them in, shaft in the oven, bearing in the freezer….slides home.
 
Last year I was facing this same scenario, but could not locate my dremel tool. I picked out the rollers with a pointed tool and made this puller from a 7/16" bolt. I rounded the bolt's hex head on my bench grinder enough that it would enter the race, but no more. Next I slotted the bolt's head, and started a small wedge of scrap steel into the slot. Enough for friction to hold it, but not far enough in to widen the bolt head (yet). Next I inserted the slotted/wedged end into the needle bearing's empty race until the wedge contacted the 'floor' of the bored hole. With a nut protecting the threads I tapped my puller in until I felt resistance as the bolt's head began to spread. Two additional hard firm raps with the 20 oz ball peen and the bolt's head was now expanded, placing great outward pressure to catch on the race's lip. I removed the nut and placed a deep socket over it's end, replaced the nut and quickly and easily withdrew the bearing's race with a wrench. No cost, no drama, no nicks, no frustration and no carnage. Elapsed time, 15 minutes.

Here's a link with pictures. You can see this process starting at post 25 on my thread form last winter.

 
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I'm not sure what it was that you stuck in the lathe. The shaft, and then machined the race out with a cutter, or the 7/16" bolt and used the lathe to machine the six corners off the bolt's hex head so it would enter the bearing race? Also, it appears that both you and I are fortunate enough to own a lathe, but I'm guessing that the majority of the folks who are faced with this task are using simple garage tools, which are all that's required with my homespun method.

Needle bearing puller.jpg


lathe at night.jpg
 
I'm not sure what it was that you stuck in the lathe. The shaft, and then machined the race out with a cutter, or the 7/16" bolt and used the lathe to machine the six corners off the bolt's hex head so it would enter the bearing race? Also, it appears that both you and I are fortunate enough to own a lathe, but I'm guessing that the majority of the folks who are faced with this task are using simple garage tools, which are all that's required with my homespun method.

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I placed the output shaft in the lathe, then slowly cut the outer race of the needle bearing out until I could break it out.
 
Thanks for clarifying.
 

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