Trail Hardware (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 1, 2015
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Location
Denver, CO
As a relative newcomer to the 80 offroading world, I've been researching (extensively) what constitutes a "trail spare" and when its a good idea to carry them. Read: some links below. (Many omitted because I don't want to write an essay.)

Trail spare's must have's ?
What's in the 80 for Rubicon
Trail Tools & Spare????
What do you keep in your rear storage unit?
MUST have spare parts

The general consensus is that your mileage varies. If Pritchett Canyon is the easiest thing you consider, it probably makes more sense to bring axle shafts, birfields, propeller shafts, and the kitchen sink. If you're trekking across Oz, probably makes sense to bring two spares and as much fuel as you can carry. If you're taking the trailer queen after a fresh build, probably makes sense to bring a ton of parts. If you're driving to a dirt parking lot, maybe your only spare is an AAA card. Yadda yadda, etc etc, you get the deal.

The topic I could find the least information regarding is the spare hardware should you expect to use on the trail. Numerous threads mentioned knuckle studs, but I found little mention of also carrying the cone washers, flat washers, and nuts which would likely be lost if the stud was sheared. There were a few mentions of hub/lug studs, but not many mentions of an extra nut if the stud is seized inside it. At the same time, its easy to carry, say, wheel bearings, but forget the hub flange gasket. For a dollar or two, this is something that I could justify replacing in the field to make sure the job is done correctly and won't need to be repeated upon returning home.

There have been a number of suggestions similar to 'oh, just run to the hardware store and grab a grade 8 (WHICH ISNT METRIC! ITS 10.9!) bolt until you can get back home and correct it.' While this is sensible if you can access the hardware store along Pritchett Canyon, there's concern that a stronger than factory bolt could just relocate the failure point to something more expensive and painful, or an NLA component. Think about pulling threads out instead of snapping a bolt. I'd rather extract bolts all day than drill and re-tap.

I'd imagine that most of this goes without saying to you 'seasoned' guys, but its not always evident if you haven't been there and done that. Maybe I just need it spelled out. Or maybe I just need to break a ton of crap. I'd prefer not the latter.

--
TL;DR
The key question(s) here is(are): What kind of hardware, gaskets, and non-reusable parts should one carry to make a stressful and frustrating situation go as smoothly as possible? What kind of standard parts are great to have around? What part of that assembly should one carry to not be "THAT GUY" that brings the spare tire but forgets the tire tool?

Pic of hardware for your time:
iStock_000012834962XSmall.jpg
 
My list is currently as follows, just so that we're on the same page. These parts apply to my '97 LX450 (FZJ80L-GNPGKA). Check with an expert before buying them for your own rig.

Knuckle Stud, New Style: 90126-12005
Washer, Cone: 42323-60020
Std Part(Knuckle stud washer): 90201-12019
Std Part(Knuckle stud nut): 94115-71200
Wheel Lug Nut: 90942-01077
Wheel Lug Stud: 90942-02052
Fusible Link: 90982-08264
Spark Plugs (90919-01176) or BKR5EYA
v-Belt, Fan/Alternator: 90916-02353
v-Belt, Cooler/Compressor: 99332-60910
Tabbed Spindle Lock Washer (Front Hub): 90215-42025
Gasket, front shaft hub flange: 43422-60060
Ring, Snap, Front Axle: 90520-31007
Gasket, Knuckle Spindle Oil Retainer: 43436-60011
Gasket, Knuckle Spindle: 43435-60020
Inner Wheel Bearing: 90368-49084-77
Outer Wheel Bearing: 90368-45087-77
Soft brake line? P/N?


Not really concerned with stuff such as birfs, axle shafts, axle housings, etc etc. These spares are already well documented and discussed on 'Mud. Mostly looking for odds, ends, hardware, and little stuff.
 
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Thanks, I was looking for some of those threads recently...

:cheers:
 
From my previous thread, of which I'm still looking for feedback: long-ish trip - thoughts on my spare parts / tools / gear . I'm not a super expert 4x4 guy so I'm happy to get advice from others.

Some of these I can make smart cases for (fuses), some are from what others have told me (10 gauge wire), and some are because it's tiny and easy to carry (spare vacuum hose).

  • Old wheel and trunion bearings and races.
  • Full size spare.
  • Full set of belts.
  • Ignition coil.
  • 2 spark plugs, one wire (longest).
  • Fuses.
  • Few feet of 10 gauge wire.
  • Few feet of 3.5mm(?) vacuum hose.
  • Duck tape.
  • Some hose clamps.
  • Zip ties.
  • Bailing wire.
  • RTV.
  • Oil filter.
  • Grease (1 tube), oil (2qt), aerokroil, wd40, radiator stop leak, slime tire stuff.
 
For the Rubicon, I try to travel light so I limit my spares to items that will prevent me from driving out (or even be towed out.) I bring knuckle studs, wheel studs, drive flange studs, tie rod ends, trunnion bearings, wheel bearings, a spindle, a birfield (but not the inner axles) drive flange and a steering box. Old used hoses live in my 1/4 panels. I also pack a fusible link. I figure, I can still drive/winch out if I am missing a drive shaft or axle shaft but no steering will leave you stranded.
 
For the Rubicon, I try to travel light so I limit my spares to items that will prevent me from driving out (or even be towed out.) I bring knuckle studs, wheel studs, drive flange studs, tie rod ends, trunnion bearings, wheel bearings, a spindle, a birfield (but not the inner axles) drive flange and a steering box. Old used hoses live in my 1/4 panels. I also pack a fusible link. I figure, I can still drive/winch out if I am missing a drive shaft or axle shaft but no steering will leave you stranded.

When you're saying steering box, do you just mean the gears? Not so much on the power steering side as much as the "turn the steering wheel and turn the wheels" side?

Edit: IE, this thing: Power Steering Gear Box All 1990-1997 80 Series [44110-60211-R] - $399.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
 
The complete steering box that bolts to the frame with the gears and the part that breaks (the sector shaft) already installed with a pitman arm also already installed.
 
The complete steering box that bolts to the frame with the gears and the part that breaks (the sector shaft) already installed with a pitman arm also already installed.
Picked off a parts cruiser for $100. Cheaper than a 105 series sector shaft.
 
What you listed above.

Add:
Spare coolant hoses (all three, NEW!)
Spare belts (all three, NEW!)
5' of 5/8" coolant hose
5' of vacuum line
20' of 12 ga wire
Fuses
A ziploc bag of misc 80 Series bolts I have accumulated
 
Proper maintenance is key. Properly torqued studs are a very good place to start. Hitting the trail with parts that are in good condition rather than worn and close to failure is also important.
Many variables come into play. What size tires? How heavy is your rig? How foolishly do you drive it. Do you force your way down the trail or do you seek the line of less resistance.? Is your power train stock or are you running higher power through a crawl box which applies much more torque to your driveline's and axle shafts? What type of wheeling will you be doing?

Be sure you carry carbide drill bits and enough batteries to drill out a set of knuckle or hub studs. Left hand twist bits can be valuable here. Check out a product called Rescue Bit.

Be sure to carry extra fuses, circuit opening relay, efi relay, fuel pump relay, fusible links ,ignitor and coil.

An extra rear driveline is also on my list when I know I will be into larger rocks.
 
For the Rubicon, I try to travel light so I limit my spares to items that will prevent me from driving out (or even be towed out.) I bring knuckle studs, wheel studs, drive flange studs, tie rod ends, trunnion bearings, wheel bearings, a spindle, a birfield (but not the inner axles) drive flange and a steering box. Old used hoses live in my 1/4 panels. I also pack a fusible link. I figure, I can still drive/winch out if I am missing a drive shaft or axle shaft but no steering will leave you stranded.

Most of the driveshaft/propeller shaft failures I've seen have been neglected u-joints or rock smashes to the shaft. Now that you mention it, drive flange studs make sense. That's a flange-specific bolt, washer, and nut, correct?

What you listed above.
Add:
Spare coolant hoses (all three, NEW!)
Spare belts (all three, NEW!)
5' of 5/8" coolant hose
5' of vacuum line
20' of 12 ga wire
Fuses
A ziploc bag of misc 80 Series bolts I have accumulated

These three hoses that some weird guy sells?
16571-66030
16573-66010
16572-66021
Really interested in what your "misc 80 series bolts" contains. I know trying to ID them would be near impossible, but anything off the top of your head? Do you usually find the hose clips/clamps reusable? Ever lose one?

Proper maintenance is key. Properly torqued studs are a very good place to start. Hitting the trail with parts that are in good condition rather than worn and close to failure is also important.
Many variables come into play. What size tires? How heavy is your rig? How foolishly do you drive it. Do you force your way down the trail or do you seek the line of less resistance.? Is your power train stock or are you running higher power through a crawl box which applies much more torque to your driveline's and axle shafts? What type of wheeling will you be doing?
Be sure you carry carbide drill bits and enough batteries to drill out a set of knuckle or hub studs. Left hand twist bits can be valuable here. Check out a product called Rescue Bit.
Be sure to carry extra fuses, circuit opening relay, efi relay, fuel pump relay, fusible links ,ignitor and coil.
An extra rear driveline is also on my list when I know I will be into larger rocks.

The four and a half is my one and only vehicle at the moment. I drive it like I need it to get to work on Monday. I'm all about the slow and technical. Ratchets are for removing hardware, torque wrenches are for installing it. Torque spec is life! I'm even going so far as to paint-pen torque spec on/near some of the commonly used bolts.
 
Toyota driveline yokes and joints are notoriously strong but the tube wall thinkness is rather lacking which is why they dent easily and then twist. An upgrade in that department will serve you well.

Most of us run some pretty tough trails for years in a row with very little trouble and it sounds like you will too.
 
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Speaking of dented tubing and maintenance, I finally ditched the stock rear LCA's which got bent, then flipped and bent until straight for a while, then bent. I figured they were on borrowed time, especially the dent in one that might cause it to fold.
 
These are a few items i never leave home without, a copy of the factory service manual, a copy of the wiring manual, and a electrical multi meter. Kind of hard to trouble shoot a problem away from home, without a multi meter, and manual.
 
Yeah, there's extensive documentation on what tools and manuals to bring. Hoping for some insight regarding the smaller stuff that's less talked about. The stuff that you need/use that's not really on the basic list of tools and birfields/etc.
 
All the work I do on my truck in the driveway is from my bag of trail tools. That way, I know I have the right tools for the trail. If I was really organized, every time I use a tool, I would put it in a seperate bag and winnow the kit down to the bare minimum.
 
Most of the driveshaft/propeller shaft failures I've seen have been neglected u-joints or rock smashes to the shaft. Now that you mention it, drive flange studs make sense. That's a flange-specific bolt, washer, and nut, correct?



These three hoses that some weird guy sells?
16571-66030
16573-66010
16572-66021
Really interested in what your "misc 80 series bolts" contains. I know trying to ID them would be near impossible, but anything off the top of your head? Do you usually find the hose clips/clamps reusable? Ever lose one?



The four and a half is my one and only vehicle at the moment. I drive it like I need it to get to work on Monday. I'm all about the slow and technical. Ratchets are for removing hardware, torque wrenches are for installing it. Torque spec is life! I'm even going so far as to paint-pen torque spec on/near some of the commonly used bolts.

I always thought the spring clamps from the factory were indestructible BUT I had one lose tension and allow coolant to leak. I am switching to constant tension clamps from Wits' End aka Joey aka @NLXTACY aka some weird guy. I just need to order them.

The bag of bolts are various spares. Many bolts have multiple uses on an 80. Rear tow hook bolts, seat mounting bolts, you name it. Bolts I have scavenged off of wrecked 80s over the years. I keep them in a ziploc freezer bag with a light coating of oil on them. I've never needed one. Haha.
 

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