Trail gear sliders install

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Mar 28, 2010
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I just wanted to document for those who choose to go with either trail gear, 4x4 innovation, marlin crawler, or all pro sliders. The ones you want are the 67’s or 68’s. The reason why I like these sliders on the lc is that I can fit them really tight compared to what’s out there except for the Rocky Mountains which fit pretty tight too.

As far as welding them up it’s pretty self explanatory cut the tubes to desired length/angle, I found using a worm drive circular saw with a metal blade worked the best, maybe a miter saw with a metal blade too would work great getting the angles right.

So far I just completed the driver side i’ll show pictures on what the measurements are and so forth.

I installed the trail gears,and have had great luck with them on my past rigs especially through the rubicon numerous times where you really need the side support going though the rocks. They do get banged up but this time I reinforced the center with 1/4 plate (4x12) which should give it extra support and was the normal area where they would bend in. I also fabricated 4 mounts instead 3 which I can tell really stiffen it up.

Measurements
3 inches from the rear bottom line
Follow in front of the bottom line to get them straight, you want to be about 1/2 away from it both under and to the side
And 3 inches away from the body(top measurement)
I also put a paint stick on the front and the rear of of the slider to push it away from the body. Don’t worry the first time you use them you may crease those areas but at least they wouldn’t be crushed without sliders.

This set up may not be for all and keep in mind that I like my sliders as high and away as possible. The body on these cruisers are already wide enough so why make it even more wider.

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Here is a picture of the driver side. Mounts. I cut the 2nd mount to make room for the iPor belly plate.
 
Those welds connecting the main tube to the frame outrigger thingamajigs look really rough. If you want my candid advice I would suggest removing them, grinding down, and rewelding. There is a tremendous amount of load on those welds when you land on something.

Not probably the comment you wanted but my $.02 nonetheless
 
Those welds connecting the main tube to the frame outrigger thingamajigs look really rough. If you want my candid advice I would suggest removing them, grinding down, and rewelding. There is a tremendous amount of load on those welds when you land on something.

Not probably the comment you wanted but my $.02 nonetheless

Unfortunately this is the same forum that recently encouraged a non-welding poster to just buy a rear bumper as a kit at STICK it together because ANYBODY can MIG weld: nothing to it!
 
Unfortunately this is the same forum that recently encouraged a non-welding poster to just buy a rear bumper as a kit at STICK it together because ANYBODY can MIG weld: nothing to it!
Nobody is born a great welder. But I am guessing the poster didnt take the time to try to move the piece into the best possible position for beginner welding (e.g. flat).
 
Unfortunately this is the same forum that recently encouraged a non-welding poster to just buy a rear bumper as a kit at STICK it together because ANYBODY can MIG weld: nothing to it!

Didn't you hear, there's a 5 minute video on You tube that says anybody can mig weld. They tell viewers to buy one of those cheap Harbor Freight welders, and in no time you'll be able to mig weld anything. Ya, that's just the guy i want welding parts for my truck, the graduate of the You Tube school of welding.
 
As a mechanic, the only thing I welded for a paycheck was mufflers, so I am not a weldolero. This was all OA welding. The thing that amazes me about MIG welding is how easy it is to get a cosmetically pleasing and beautiful looking weld that isn’t worth $hit. Conversely you might get an ugly weld due to poor fit up or bad access that is fine. The point is, you can’t tell by looking. Weld, test, weld, test, weld, test and when you get it right 100% of the time, you can be reasonably confident in your work.
 
Even if it IS a s***ty weld the worst case scenario is body damage.

Otherwise, good job! I have had a set of these in my shop for about 3 years now... maybe it's time I weld them up...
 
I've had my set kicking around the garage since I cut them off the rolled 4runner... lol that was 5 years ago. After wheeling all that time without them, I'm now kinda thinking my rockers don't need the protection and my truck doesn't need the weight. Basically as long as the doors still open and close, I don't care anymore :o
 
I'm interested on how the PS most forward mount goes around the cats, or ahead of the cats. Can you post a pic please?
 
In ten posts we’ve gone from- here is my work and proud to post it to We need pipeline quality welds on sliders to Those welds may very well be good enough to Screw it, sliders are unnecessary anyway. :rofl:

I had never seen or even heard of a bolt on slider prior to 80 series days and was very skeptical but having beat the tar out my bolt on white knuckle sliders (needing tube replacement but still in one piece) I don’t know if I would do a weld on slider now. I appreciate the easy removal/install feature. Not that I remove them regularly but I have removed them maybe three times for various reasons over the last 4 years.
 
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Unfortunately this is the same forum that recently encouraged a non-welding poster to just buy a rear bumper as a kit at STICK it together because ANYBODY can MIG weld: nothing to it!
Sliders are a fantastic project for learning. The worst that can happen is they fail and you damage your own vehicle, very few scenarios where someone could be injured. That being said, I would not support the weight of the vehicle on a learning project and get under it. By the same token, I wouldn't ever want to get under a truck supported on the sliders or bumpers, no matter how well built they were.
 
Okay. The passenger side is always going to be more difficult. I couldn’t as much as I wanted to add 4 mounts this time but did 3.5 by adding the front piece on the trailing arm mount.

I used a 1/4 plate for the bottom of the cats and on the ends welded a 4 inch piece in the front for the rocks.

Still not done but here is the progress.

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Some of those welds look pretty damn good!

I pity your muffler guy.
 
So I just did another set and wanted to update on the install. I fixed my wiring too from the wall to the plug. Had a loose connection. Can’t beat these for $250 and a little weekend project.
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I put a set of TG 78 inch sliders on my ‘19 Taco DCSB-OR. They are made of 1.75 inch1035 DOM tube which says “made in the USA”, I couldn’t even buy the DOM tube locally for the money. The price has gone up by 50% in the last 6 months.

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