Tracing a short, repairing harness & installing EDIC/Glow plug timer update a couple of questions & a heads up on 40 parts... (1 Viewer)

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Hi Folks...
l've started removing the left side ( rhd 2H alt/exhaust area) of the harness to check for a short & install the new updated 'chip' EDIC & glow plug timer, the timer instructions say its crucial to install 6v glow plugs, electrics aren't my forte, so l'm wondering if there's a voltage suppressor (?) to reduce the voltage to the timer before it connects to the glow plug bar..?

l'll be stripping the harness checking for cracks repairing/re-insulting it & replacing worn/rusted connectors...it looks like the white/blue stripe wire from the alt is 1 of 2 interconnections between both halves of the harness, altho l'm still investigating its travel behind the centre dash (switch area) in the hope it goes to the fuse box..the other is a black/red inserted into the timer which seems to run to the fuse box & then runs to the disable switch..Any ideas on what else l should look out for..?

And lastly..a heads up for everyone, l'm going to see a car collector next week with various 40 parts he's looking to move on, once l know all he has available & an idea of the £/$ involved l'll post a list, if there's anything in particular you're after let me know...What l do know is that he has a 1HZ engine available after he offered it to me...
 
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I am not sure what you're installing.. sounds like an aftermarket Superglow unit? This is not a great approach depending on the state of your glow system..

I'd trash the entire superglow setup and run a "Wilson Switch" and new 10.5V plugs... search Mud for "Wilson Switch" for more information.

Unsure what you're doing with the EDIC.. happy to provide help, post more information and photos of what you're dealing with and check my bio below for a tonne of 2H information.
 
I am not sure what you're installing.. sounds like an aftermarket Superglow unit? This is not a great approach depending on the state of your glow system..

I'd trash the entire superglow setup and run a "Wilson Switch" and new 10.5V plugs... search Mud for "Wilson Switch" for more information.

Unsure what you're doing with the EDIC.. happy to provide help, post more information and photos of what you're dealing with and check my bio below for a tonne of 2H information.
Hi Duncan, Thanks for the feedback.
They're upgrades from the original transistor set up for the EDIC & GP Timer to chip from ReviveYourRig@.com in Melbourne VIC Aus.
My existing EDIC motherboard has a previous repair to a crack along the bottom to 1/3 of the way up the edge, the solders been joined across 4 transistor terminals, l spoke to Richard at Mr Landcruiser who repairs them but he'll need the Edic & the Timer to set it up during repair. that'll take weeks & l usually use the ute as my daily so l thought l'd research an alternative & found a guy in Australia (RYR) who makes them. l spoke with him last night and there's 3 options on the Timer board 1) Solder 2 connections together which bypasses the (2) superglow 6v option & lets you use the 12v instead. There's also (3) a Wilson Switch connection (req's 2 wires to be soldered to its connectors).. The ute starts but doesn't switch off, l've replaced the ignition & the barrel wiring & it still won't switch off. So l'm currently removing the harness to check it for damage & carryout repairs, re-insulate & reinstall it with a view to installing the upgrades in the process.The glow system has been renewed, new 12v plugs & buzz bar & the existing GP timer works for about 10 secs when the utes started & then switches off which l believe is normal. In the midst of removing the harness l'm finding a few earths are not connected/missing so thats not helping either. l'll take some pics of the old Edic/Timer & the upgrades to let you see what l'm looking to do.
 
This is the upgrade GP Timer with old unit next, the new GP Timer has a wilson switch connection top right & the mid section with U3/U4 is where the solder should be made to connect them to adapt the system for 12v. the 3rd pic is the old EDIC with new EDIC, 4th pic is the EDIC solder repair' as you can see the solder runs across the board.

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Those pic's are next to useless on my laptop. I click on them and nothing happens. Maybe you could attach them as file or something so they could be blown up, enhanced to actually be useful.
 
New pics of the Edic / GP Timer, hopefully these are better quality.
1-is the old Edic board with solder repair running across the top right.
2- the new upgrade GP Timer with Wilson switch connection, just needs soldering.
3-the GP Timer upgrade the 2 blocks side by side need to be soldered together to continue using the 12v system
4- the upgrade GP Timer itself
5- the upgrade Edic

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A wilson switch is , direct control to the glow plug , with the timer deleted, you became the timer
Duncanrm's gave me extra info...
It states in the instructions to use the Wilson Switch for no longer than 5 secs or the system cuts it off...its a fail safe to prevent cooking the glow plugs.
The ute started okay all summer, but currently in winter l've found by switching the ignition on/off 3 times & heating the plugs (counting to 10 each time) without starting the ute on the 4th turn the ute starts, so hopefully the upgrade resolves this & a pull stop should the ignition still not turn off the engine by being installed will deal with switching it off (as a back up) all l have to do is disconnect the edic rod.
 
Hopefully these are better quality photo's....from a 20yro phone..

1st is the Glow plug heater board alongside the update.
2nd is the Edic alongside its update.
3rd a closer look at the Edic update.
4th The soldered repair l found on the existing Edic.
5th A look at the GP heater update. (On the top left of the board there's the Wilson Switch connection) & on the board at the bottom you'll see U3/U4 square blocks these need to be soldered together to use 12V Glow Plugs..if they're not its recommended that you use 6V Glow Plugs..

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I just wouldnt bother with the aftermarket PCB.. a big fat solenoid and a push button is all that is required.

To be honest, I'm kind of annoyed that the PCB even has something labelled "Wilson Switch" on it.
 
l hear you Duncan,
l'm in the middle of repairing the entire passenger side wiring loom back to the PCB, Edic & starter relay, tracing a short/s as there was a flash 1 morning when l started the ute inside the cab in that area so there's a fault/s l need to find/fix...so far l've found 2 cables with bare wires exposed.
l've bought the aftermarket parts, l might as well use them & by renewing the PCB/Edic it would rule them out and keep the system as intended, alternatively if option 1 doesn't work, by adding a stop cable/Wilson switch it would give me another option to connect the Wilson switch if the problem persists, (Going by the instructions the Wilson switch labelling on the new PCB is meant to be an easier way for an amateur enthusiast to follow the a.b.c's of keeping their rig on the road).
As for myself, l'm doing all this using the hedging my bet theory as l just want my ute to run right & l've set aside the time to do this now, knowing from April l won't have the time & its a learning curve l'm willing to share...at the moment l feel like a time traveller heading back to the future, of course l also know, by this time next week if none of it works, l'll be making the return journey using my bus pass....uttering lots of cathartic sweary words.
I just wouldnt bother with the aftermarket PCB.. a big fat solenoid and a push button is all that is required.

To be honest, I'm kind of annoyed that the PCB even has something labelled "Wilson Switch" on it
 
Hi Guys...The repair/rewiring of my ute is moving along, lots of damaged wiring & earths missing & l'm still checking the loom what l have found is a relay/switch.. pic attached located behind the battery/water bottle frame tucked in along the inner wing & bolted to the inner wing joint it has (4 wires) 3 are damaged, 1 snapped (earth?), 1 shroud pierced (black earth?) & the green has a distinct brown burn area located beside the pierced black wire, where they were tightly entwined...There's no part number on it.. what is it & what does this do..?... Thanks in advance..

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My first guess was horn relay, but that should be on the bulkhead.
Those wires look pretty heavy, so I'm thinking aftermarket spotlights relay or cooling fan relay??
 
Thanks for the
My first guess was horn relay, but that should be on the bulkhead.
Those wires look pretty heavy, so I'm thinking aftermarket spotlights relay or cooling fan relay??
Thanks for the feedback Dougal, l don't think its the aftermarket spotlight relay, l've stripped the wiring & a connected relay out as it was disconnected at the battery, but the dash switch still had power intermittently to light up from a feed via another unit/relay with similar heavy wiring bolted to the radiator shroud (l'm thinking thats the horn relay) & the lights didn't work anyway, and l'm going to rewire them in at some point ( another job on the to do list)..
The wiring to this unit/relay loops back into the wiring harness, when l get to removing the drivers side harness l'll trace the wiring back to its source if l can, l'm wondering what it was/did.. Besides the heater fan, to my knowledge l don't have an electric cooling fan on the ute...
 
I don't see those colours on my wiring diagram. The only solid green i see is for the front drive relay, but I don't see the black-blue anywhere.

Remind me what year is it?
 
1984..from what l know its a March 84 build...and Nov 84 on the road Aus registration...

The heavy wires are green & black... the thinner wires are black..&..white/black....(there's no black/blue)
I don't see those colours on my wiring diagram. The only solid green i see is for the front drive relay, but I don't see the black-blue anywhere.

Remind me what year is it?
 
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