I’ve gone through most of that enormous thread and it is truly an inspiration.
TOYOTA, more than ever before... (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter cps432
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cps432
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I’ve followed Felicity’s build thread for years. She did this while raising a kid and working in a covid ward in the height of the pandemic. I can handle this in my heated garage!
The hot tank did smell nice! The lumber did char some. I kept an eye on it and kept the flames low enough that they didn’t ignite the wood. I kept a bucket of water nearby in case. If I was to do it again I would get some concrete pavers to stack rather than the wood.
I ran that propane can for about 6-8 hours at a time and did that 4 times. The liquid never got to a rolling boil, but it was hot enough to do the job. You can certainly see currents churning through the engine passages. Remove all the freeze plugs first. I tanked the head twice because I was lazy and didn’t remove the plugs first.
I also let the parts sit in the solution over night after warming the liquid for hours. I repeated the process the next day before removing them and cleaning them up with compressed air and wire brushes.
My father has a crab boiler that was built on an oil rig in the Gulf of Mexico out of pipes and boring tools. It puts out an alarmingly large flame. If I had that sucker I’m sure the tank would come to a rolling boil. The one I have is smaller and I kept the flames dialed back a bit. I don’t think I was putting out enough BTUs to overcome the heat dissipation from the barrel so it only ever got really warm and never scalding hot. I’m sure it would work even better if that were the case.
thanks for the reply on the hot tank
yup, an inspiration she is
yup, an inspiration she is
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
VERY nice tools. Those seat cutters are amazing. I watched so many videos.
Lapping isn’t hard at all. I did a few but then I lucked out and @TRAIL TAILOR contacted me that he had some Japanese valves. I went from there and used his gift.
I’m reading back here. @OSS prompted me to the compliments paid by @kirvesmies later… I always appreciate his kudos and saw yours too Chris.
But really when it comes to this work, I know YOU can do it. You’ve shown us your tenacity is great and worthy of this many banana task. Someone near you might have an old head to practice on? Or junk yard head? And old valves are easy… I might have a few for you to play w/.
I’ve not been on mud much. This winter has sucked. Work sucks. My attitude sucks. My bees are down from 9 to 1. Crossing everything I can cross they make it through. CT winters blow. I have found that my little self grown flush of psilocybin has become something of a antidepressant for sure and w/o it I’d be ****ing miserable.
I wish I was closer… I’d love to help if I could. I’ll keep reading.
FYI I’ve got the lapping compound, a tool… if you want I can send them. It’s not much. Lmk.
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cps432
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Been a little while since I updated here. Work has been very busy and demanding the last few weeks. Taylor Swift is going on tour this summer and we’re making a new batch of custom guitars for her. They need to be finished soon so they have some time to be guitars before she takes them on the road. I kinda can’t believe this is my job right now… 
I keep getting tonsillitis too, so I’ve been pretty exhausted. I persist none the less.
I’ve been slowly cleaning some parts up and prepping for paint. Got some color on the bellhousing, timing cover, and oil filter mount. I’m keeping the oil cooler and mounts black. I went back and forth on the blue for a few weeks until I found the color I was looking for. It’s gonna look awesome under the hood. I’m glad I did it.
I got the pistons and rods cleaned up. I’ll reuse them. They’re in fine shape. They were an absolute mess and I had to soak them in ChemDip for 24 hours to loosen the carbon deposits. I still had to scrub them for a while after that. That took over a week to compete.
Collecting new parts too. Got new valves and guides. New timing plate screws. Cam plug. Spark plugs and wires. New Remflex gasket. New Aisin oil pump. I’m debating just getting new valve seats as opposed to buying a cutter tool. I think it’s gonna cost about the same either way. I’m not sure if I would need to cut the new seats at all or if they would be ready to lap right away. Any thoughts?
I keep getting tonsillitis too, so I’ve been pretty exhausted. I persist none the less.
I’ve been slowly cleaning some parts up and prepping for paint. Got some color on the bellhousing, timing cover, and oil filter mount. I’m keeping the oil cooler and mounts black. I went back and forth on the blue for a few weeks until I found the color I was looking for. It’s gonna look awesome under the hood. I’m glad I did it.
I got the pistons and rods cleaned up. I’ll reuse them. They’re in fine shape. They were an absolute mess and I had to soak them in ChemDip for 24 hours to loosen the carbon deposits. I still had to scrub them for a while after that. That took over a week to compete.
Collecting new parts too. Got new valves and guides. New timing plate screws. Cam plug. Spark plugs and wires. New Remflex gasket. New Aisin oil pump. I’m debating just getting new valve seats as opposed to buying a cutter tool. I think it’s gonna cost about the same either way. I’m not sure if I would need to cut the new seats at all or if they would be ready to lap right away. Any thoughts?
What? That Jeep windshield won't fit for 60..
cps432
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I have decided to go back to a carbureted engine. After reading a bunch of info about the Sniper it seems that there is a problem with the way it functions with this engine. I do not want to mess around with it after rebuilding this thing. The intake was designed for use with a carb and that’s what I’m going to install when it’s done. No more stalling out upon deceleration.
Now for finding a new carb and the ancillary components I need to make it work.
I know I need a fuel cut solenoid and a new plug for the OEM wiring harness as well as linkage for the throttle pedal. I’ll post a wanted ad in the classifieds. If anyone has any leads on the parts I need to go back to stock I would appreciate the input.
What’re your thoughts on installing the HAC? Worth it?
Now for finding a new carb and the ancillary components I need to make it work.
I know I need a fuel cut solenoid and a new plug for the OEM wiring harness as well as linkage for the throttle pedal. I’ll post a wanted ad in the classifieds. If anyone has any leads on the parts I need to go back to stock I would appreciate the input.
What’re your thoughts on installing the HAC? Worth it?
I run the HAC. You’re in Montana and if you intend on doing any traveling to lowlands it would be good to have.
I’m also in the middle of thinking about that though. In addition to advancing static timing 6*, it leans out the mixture. At high altitude there’s less oxygen in there so that makes sense, but I feel like it may lean out the mixture a little much. Maybe a check valve on that plumbing is my direction.
Regardless, I say keep the HAC.
I’m also in the middle of thinking about that though. In addition to advancing static timing 6*, it leans out the mixture. At high altitude there’s less oxygen in there so that makes sense, but I feel like it may lean out the mixture a little much. Maybe a check valve on that plumbing is my direction.
Regardless, I say keep the HAC.
It's not a very complicated circuit, really the HAC valve is the only thing to test. Easy to see if it goes bad by checking the timing and pulling the vac line off the smaller diaphragm. They’re not that hard to find either. Any 80s Toyota truck (maybe the cars too) at a junkyard should have one that’s the same or close. So yeah, I’m for keeping it.
cps432
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- #473
Finding a working HAC valve is probably the toughest thing. My original wasn’t working as intended which is part of the reason I went with the sniper. Turns out the truck still got even more sluggish when I hit the high plains of Wyoming. That’s probably due to other issues, but I defiantly noticed how the altitude and temperature change effected the engine.
Like I said: any junkyard … most any 80s Toyota.
I *think* new ones are still sold by Toyota for a different application (a 1980s vehicle of some kind) that can be used in 60s. Can’t remember where I saw that though.Really there’s not much to go wrong in the HAC - no heat, no carbon, no fuel vapor. It’s clean air passing through it. They get stuck from being above or below 4000’ elevation, but you can free them up. Gently try compressed air, some non-solvent cleaner, or removing the lower part that contains the filter material to use a small tool to move the diaphragm. Replace the filter media while you’re at it - different options in the Home Depot HVAC aisle work if you cut to size.
cps432
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I did all of that years ago when I first had problems passing emissions. You’re right. They are very simple. My guess is mine was stuck and I either broke something while messing with it or failed to free it up. I found one on eBay for a reasonable price, but maybe a new one from Mr. T would be justified. I’ll look into it!Like I said: any junkyard … most any 80s Toyota.
Really there’s not much to go wrong in the HAC - no heat, no carbon, no fuel vapor. It’s clean air passing through it. They get stuck from being above or below 4000’ elevation, but you can free them up. Gently try compressed air, some non-solvent cleaner, or removing the lower part that contains the filter material to use a small tool to move the diaphragm. Replace the filter media while you’re at it - different options in the Home Depot HVAC aisle work if you cut to size.
cps432
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I got the oil pan, clutch cover, and side cover stripped down today. I’ll finish degreasing with acetone later this week and start painting them.
Here’s my solution to slightly warped/pitted mating surfaces.
150 grit Emory cloth is doing the job slow and steady. I simply sprayed the back side of the cloth with 3M adhesive and stuck it to the glass shower door. I’m using it as a sanding block. Sit on the floor and “row”… and row and row. It’s gonna take a while to get through all the mating surfaces I plan to flatten, but I paid nothing for the glass. Emory cloth is pricier than regular wet/dry paper, but it doesn’t break down as quickly and doesn’t leave grit all over the place.
I’m rotating the glass every 50 passes or so. I change positions as well to make sure I’m not putting pressure on one side or the other. Or if I do, it’s countered by hitting it from the other side with the same number of passes. Counting your strokes is key when flattening things by hand. Your body physics will cause imperfections so you’ve got to mitigate it to the best of your ability. I do this all day long at work on a smaller scale. Literally hundreds of times a week.
Here’s my solution to slightly warped/pitted mating surfaces.
150 grit Emory cloth is doing the job slow and steady. I simply sprayed the back side of the cloth with 3M adhesive and stuck it to the glass shower door. I’m using it as a sanding block. Sit on the floor and “row”… and row and row. It’s gonna take a while to get through all the mating surfaces I plan to flatten, but I paid nothing for the glass. Emory cloth is pricier than regular wet/dry paper, but it doesn’t break down as quickly and doesn’t leave grit all over the place.
I’m rotating the glass every 50 passes or so. I change positions as well to make sure I’m not putting pressure on one side or the other. Or if I do, it’s countered by hitting it from the other side with the same number of passes. Counting your strokes is key when flattening things by hand. Your body physics will cause imperfections so you’ve got to mitigate it to the best of your ability. I do this all day long at work on a smaller scale. Literally hundreds of times a week.
4runner2FJ60
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cps432
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- #479
I boiled everything in simple green a few months ago. I use that stuff for initial degreasing and crud cutting. Once the original paint has been stripped with a paint stripper I prep for new paint with acetone. It removes the residue from the stripper.
Acetone also dissolves oil and penetrates the pores of the metal and wicks it out to the surface. Then you wipe it off. Do that a few times and then hit the surface with a blow torch to remove any moisture. Repeat until you can wipe it without picking up any junk.
It’s the most effective way I have found to prep metal parts for primer and enamel. I’ve done rattle can before and it never lasts. This time I’m brushing on Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Two coats. Then three or four coats of Rustoleum enamel. Sure it leaves brush strokes… but have you actually taken a look at the original paint? My block had a bunch of runs in the original enamel. I’m not building a 69 Camaro show car here.
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