Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (5 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Unless a dedicated off-road trailer, I think anything short of an Oliver may have a rough time on the Dempster. My Airstream included.

While I've not had any major issues, I can see how endless washboards might do a number. I do some BLM camping so I did mod mine going up to 75 profile tire to soften the ride. Couple other things I do is air down ~15 PSI and decrease WD tension (by using AHC) high. I can tell it does ride so much softer as the couch pillows and things don't get thrown around.

Following dedicated off-road trailers, no matter how sophisticated the suspension, tire pressure seems to also make the most difference. They usually drop about 20 PSI, and it's such a dramatic difference. From hopping around to planted. I've seen enough that I think it's always worth the effort.

 

[coleAK]

Unless a dedicated off-road trailer, I think anything short of an Oliver may have a rough time on the Dempster. My Airstream included.

While I've not had any major issues, I can see how endless washboards might do a number. I do some BLM camping so I did mod mine going up to 75 profile tire to soften the ride. Couple other things I do is air down ~15 PSI and decrease WD tension (by using AHC) high. I can tell it does ride so much softer as the couch pillows and things don't get thrown around.

Following dedicated off-road trailers, no matter how sophisticated the suspension, tire pressure seems to also make the most difference. They usually drop about 20 PSI, and it's such a dramatic difference. From hopping around to planted. I've seen enough that I think it's always worth the effort.

I drop my trailer to 20-25 psi on the discussed roads, and carry 2 extra spares for the LX and camper.

 

[TeCKis300]

I drop my trailer to 20-25 psi on the discussed roads, and carry 2 extra spares for the LX and camper.

That helps. You guys are doing the real deal up there and great to have confirmed strategies.

 

[Slow Paddler]

I think anything short of an Oliver may have a rough time on the Dempster.

I was just going to mention that there seemed to be an inordinate number of Oliver Trailers going to Alaska this year, plus the few that live there permanently. Other than a few stone chips and one broken leaf on a spring pack, I never read or saw any problems mentioned.

I still don't know that I want to haul ours that far, though. Banff/Jasper/Icefields seem like a good turning around point.

 

[GordJ]

I was just going to mention that there seemed to be an inordinate number of Oliver Trailers going to Alaska this year, plus the few that live there permanently. Other than a few stone chips and one broken leaf on a spring pack, I never read or saw any problems mentioned.

I still don't know that I want to haul ours that far, though. Banff/Jasper/Icefields seem like a good turning around point.

lol. Then you’ll be thinking “but we’ve gone this far and won’t go to the end?”. The Alcan highway, Skagway, Anchorage, Dawson City and Tuktoyaktuk are so close!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Banff/Jasper/Icefields seem like a good turning around point.

Beautiful spots, but they're also tourist traps. Stupidly busy, and expensive.

BC has MUCH more to offer than just Banff. You'd be making a mistake not going further north. And that's not to mention the rest of northern Canada, Alaska, etc.

 

[coleAK]

What type of campers are you looking at/thinking about?

I had Timbren suspension on a small FSR trailer years ago, and while it towed great, I've since come across quite a few mentions of potential problems with that suspension type and am not sure I'd want it on a large, heavy trailer.

Well I forgot to mention that my wife and I are strongly considering ditching the trailer set up and getting a MAN or to a lesser extent unimog conversion.

You can get used ones similar to these for ~$150-$200k in parts of Europe, Aus, and S America.

Overland Custom Camper: 6x6 MAN TGA

Explore the ultimate overland camper built on a 6×6 MAN TGA truck off-grid ready, family-friendly for global travel and rugged terrain.

www.treadmagazine.com

 

[Artie]

So what have you found the optimal speed to be? There is a bell curve there, I'm sure.

A speed at which I’m not being constantly over taken by tractor trailers.

 

[TeCKis300]

Well I forgot to mention that my wife and I are strongly considering ditching the trailer set up and getting a MAN or to a lesser extent unimog conversion.

You can get used ones similar to these for ~$150-$200k in parts of Europe, Aus, and S America.

Overland Custom Camper: 6x6 MAN TGA

Explore the ultimate overland camper built on a 6×6 MAN TGA truck off-grid ready, family-friendly for global travel and rugged terrain.

www.treadmagazine.com

That would be epic! I haven't been to Alaska but that may be the perfect place for that type of vehicle?

The utility of such a large overlander could be suspect in places though due to sheer size. I'm sure you know your use case. Just putting this out there as I met a guy who built an awesome cummins earthroamer type build on 42s, and at least in SoCal, he found it really limiting where he could visit. Interestingly, he wanted to do one last trip in Alaska before selling it. Then possibly getting into a 200-series to get better access to the trails in this region.

Just ran into this guy last weekend on the trail where my group was able to bypass a rockfall easily, but took some effort to get this big boy through.

 

[coleAK]

That would be epic! I haven't been to Alaska but that may be the perfect place for that type of vehicle?

The utility of such a large overlander could be suspect in places though due to sheer size. I'm sure you know your use case. Just putting this out there as I met a guy who built an awesome cummins earthroamer type build on 42s, and at least in SoCal, he found it really limiting where he could visit. Interestingly, he wanted to do one last trip in Alaska before selling it. Then possibly getting into a 200-series to get better access to the trails in this region.

Just ran into this guy last weekend on the trail where my group was able to bypass a rockfall easily, but took some effort to get this big boy through.

View attachment 3509255

Up here I could take the MAN >90% of the places I take my LX. Dalton, McCarthy, Steese, NW territory, beaches on the Kenai,… we have very few off road “trails” that are large enough for my LX. They are prettty much side by side, mororcycle, atv trails.

There are a ton of these type rigs up here in the summer, ones from all aver the world.

 

[Boston Mangler]

That would be epic! I haven't been to Alaska but that may be the perfect place for that type of vehicle?

The utility of such a large overlander could be suspect in places though due to sheer size. I'm sure you know your use case. Just putting this out there as I met a guy who built an awesome cummins earthroamer type build on 42s, and at least in SoCal, he found it really limiting where he could visit. Interestingly, he wanted to do one last trip in Alaska before selling it. Then possibly getting into a 200-series to get better access to the trails in this region.

"Its Me, Hi, Im The Problem, Its Me" or whatever Taylor Swift sings...

Thanks for the kind words @TeCKis300 it was great to meet you and your beautiful rig. FYI, i think i finally found a 200 (more on that later)

For those curious, its not as much the size of my rig that makes it limiting on where i can visit, its more of the production it is to get it there.

It 100% gets to wherever it needs to go, everything single time, i've done a ton of Moab with it and completed Finz and Thingz while the wife was screaming at me threatening divorce, true story.... But...

Every where i go (offroad), i have to go about 1/4 the speed i'd do in any other vehicle. It gets wherever it needs to go, eventually... But its a ton of effort driving something that big offroad at a snails pace. Generally holding up the group, etc....

Example: I enjoy driving, on a couple of my Alaska trips, i could do 1000 mile days, when needed, and be fine.

I built this vehicle for my annual Alaska trip (done it on a moto, and in 2 different Tundras), but.... 400-500 miles in the Ram Camper and i want a nap. Driver fatigure is very real with huge vehicles, even on pavement, and i honestly didnt take this into consideration as much as i should have. This is the main reason i keep contemplating selling it.

If i decide to keep it, to make it less fatiguing on the road, i am going back to dually and putting smaller ATs on it. I keep going back and forth.

NOTE: I HATEEEEE the 42" tires, but was only option that had the load rating when switching from dually to single.

But yes, i am also searching for a 200, for easier access to local trails, and for quick trips with the homies.

Camper was built mainly so wife will join, and she does, and loves it.

I personally need none of the fancy stuff and would be perfectly content blasting out to local desert and sleeping in the back of a 200 with my pop tarts and whiskey!

Cheers

 

[TeCKis300]

"Its Me, Hi, Im The Problem, Its Me" or whatever Taylor Swift sings...

Thanks for the kind words @TeCKis300 it was great to meet you and your beautiful rig. FYI, i think i finally found a 200 (more on that later)

For those curious, its not as much the size of my rig that makes it limiting on where i can visit, its more of the production it is to get it there.

It 100% gets to wherever it needs to go, everything single time, i've done a ton of Moab with it and completed Finz and Thingz while the wife was screaming at me threatening divorce, true story.... But...

Every where i go (offroad), i have to go about 1/4 the speed i'd do in any other vehicle. It gets wherever it needs to go, eventually... But its a ton of effort driving something that big offroad at a snails pace. Generally holding up the group, etc....

Example: I enjoy driving, on a couple of my Alaska trips, i could do 1000 mile days, when needed, and be fine.

I built this vehicle for my annual Alaska trip (done it on a moto, and in 2 different Tundras), but.... 400-500 miles in the Ram Camper and i want a nap. Driver fatigure is very real with huge vehicles, even on pavement, and i honestly didnt take this into consideration as much as i should have. This is the main reason i keep contemplating selling it.

If i decide to keep it, to make it less fatiguing on the road, i am going back to dually and putting smaller ATs on it. I keep going back and forth.

NOTE: I HATEEEEE the 42" tires, but was only option that had the load rating when switching from dually to single.

But yes, i am also searching for a 200, for easier access to local trails, and for quick trips with the homies.

Camper was built mainly so wife will join, and she does, and loves it.

I personally need none of the fancy stuff and would be perfectly content blasting out to local desert and sleeping in the back of a 200 with my pop tarts and whiskey!

Cheers

Good to see you're still around Kevin, and close to picking up a 200!?

Always good to hear it firsthand so thanks for filling in the blanks. I half joke that I don't need all the stuff and it's for the family, but part of this hobby is the enjoyment of tinkering. I'm pretty sure you have a hankering for tinkering too

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Cross-post from my "build" thread:

Trailered the gray truck to my Dad's for the weekend to get the 8274 mounted. (You can read the details in that build thread. There is a link in my signature.) The LX averaged around 8.7 - 9 MPG over two tanks battling mountain passes and a winter storm. I have to say I am super impressed with how this thing tows!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I'm going to be looking at a travel trailer in a few days. It comes with a WD hitch, and I've never used one before, much less with AHC in the mix.

What's the proper way to attach the hitch/trailer with AHC in play, and set up the tension? Do I keep the LX in neutral height, turn off AHC, attach the trailer, and then re-enable AHC to allow it to self level?

This trailer is 5200lb dry with 7000gvwr, so well within the towing capacity. Tongue weight will be about 510-550lb.

For all my previous trailers (no WD hitches) I simply hooked up, let AHC do its thing, and drove off.

I don't know the WD hitch manufacturer and the photos are quite poor; might be a Curt roundbar?

 

[Nothinghead]

What's the proper way to attach the hitch/trailer with AHC in play, and set up the tension? Do I keep the LX in neutral height, turn off AHC, attach the trailer, and then re-enable AHC to allow it to self level?

That's the simplest way. Of course, this is after you have properly set up the WD hitch for your vehicle height.

Once you have the adjustment dialed in, some people like to use the AHC controls to lower or raise the hitch to assist with hooking up and unhooking the hitch and tension bars but I'm not entirely convinced this is that helpful but I have a motorized tongue jack.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

That's the simplest way. Of course, this is after you have properly set up the WD hitch for your vehicle height.

Once you have the adjustment dialed in, some people like to use the AHC controls to lower or raise the hitch to assist with hooking up and unhooking the hitch and tension bars but I'm not entirely convinced this is that helpful but I have a motorized tongue jack.

Thanks!

Speaking of the motorized tongue jack (this trailer also has one)... I read somewhere that it's easier to setup the WD hitch, tension it, etc. by using the jack to lift the trailer tongue, hook everything up (including tensioning), and then lower/retract the jack, drive off. Is that how you do it, too?

 

[Nothinghead]

Thanks!

Speaking of the motorized tongue jack (this trailer also has one)... I read somewhere that it's easier to setup the WD hitch, tension it, etc. by using the jack to lift the trailer tongue, hook everything up (including tensioning), and then lower/retract the jack, drive off. Is that how you do it, too?

Yes. That is the process.

You have to use the tongue jack to raise the rear of the vehicle and trailer tongue so you can hook up your chains or bars (unless you can dead lift 1,000 lbs and tension the bars at ride height).
Once your bars are attached:

1. attach safety chains and emergency brake cable
2. attach 7 pin umbilical
3. lower the tongue/raise the jack (AHC should be set to normal). The LX will self level with the added hitch weight. T
4. remove your trailer wheel chocks
5. make sure everything on the trailer is locked up.
6. turn on your driving lights
7. check blinkers
8. get in
9. buckle up
10. check the brake controller is getting/giving good signal
11. roll down your windows
12. put it in gear
13. argue with your wife about the spotting directions she is giving you to back out of the driveway
14. run into the tree
15. pull forward
16. curse
17. yell at your wife again
18. back out of the driveway and then hit the road

That's my process.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Yes. That is the process.

You have to use the tongue jack to raise the rear of the vehicle and trailer tongue so you can hook up your chains or bars (unless you can dead lift 1,000 lbs and tension the bars at ride height).
Once your bars are attached:

1. attach safety chains and emergency brake cable
2. attach 7 pin umbilical
3. lower the tongue/raise the jack (AHC should be set to normal). The LX will self level with the added hitch weight. T
4. remove your trailer wheel chocks
5. make sure everything on the trailer is locked up.
6. turn on your driving lights
7. check blinkers
8. get in
9. buckle up
10. check the brake controller is getting/giving good signal
11. roll down your windows
12. put it in gear
13. argue with your wife about the spotting directions she is giving you to back out of the driveway
14. run into the tree
15. pull forward
16. curse
17. yell at your wife again
18. back out of the driveway and then hit the road

That's my process.

That sounds about right. Especially the wife parts! hah

Thanks again.

 

[GordJ]

For what it is worth, I back up to the trailer and put the LX in H, then I retract the trailer jack and hook up my WDH. Because I have set up my WDH previously on level ground I know where to set the bars and with the truck in H it is easy to hook up, I seldom need to use a wrench or pry bar.

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm going to be looking at a travel trailer in a few days. It comes with a WD hitch, and I've never used one before, much less with AHC in the mix.

What's the proper way to attach the hitch/trailer with AHC in play, and set up the tension? Do I keep the LX in neutral height, turn off AHC, attach the trailer, and then re-enable AHC to allow it to self level?

This trailer is 5200lb dry with 7000gvwr, so well within the towing capacity. Tongue weight will be about 510-550lb.

For all my previous trailers (no WD hitches) I simply hooked up, let AHC do its thing, and drove off.

I don't know the WD hitch manufacturer and the photos are quite poor; might be a Curt roundbar?

Hitching Up
To be clear, there isn't a need to ever use AHC "off". There isn't necessarily a preferred position (L,N,H) to hitch from. Any can be used. Though obviously you'll need to have the ball come from under the coupler so the lower AHC position is probably more useful.

With WD hitches, instead of lowering the coupler onto the ball, it's preferrable to use AHC high to jack the ball into the coupler. This sets things up for the next steps: latch the coupler, then engage to WD bars. As mentioned, being in AHC high and/or tongue jack in a high position, will allow engaging the WD bars with the least amount of effort, and potentially without tools depending on the specific WD hitch.

Setting Tension
This part is a bit tricky as you can't use the common measuring of front fender heights to establish Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR) tension.

One of the first things to do is to set ball height. (Important for stability but also plays into WD bar angle/tension) This part is easier as AHC is constant height in normal position. You'll want to get the trailer level on its own, and get a measurement of the coupler height. Setup the drop hitch to have the ball at this height. If somewhat in between, slight nose up of the trailer is preferred over slight nose down.

The next part of setting WD bar tension will be somewhat done by judgement. Overtime, you'll develop what is right for bar tension based on experience. Ideally you'll cross check this on the scales. If the setup or steering feels squirely or sways, you need more tension. Too much tension, and you'll know it too as it'll feel like the nose if forced down over road gradiants/bumps. The car should feel very stable and fairly neutral in attitude.

Back to setting tension, get vehicle in AHC H or jack things up pretty high with tongue jacks. With the type of bars in the picture, you'll lash up with some tension where it should require the leverage of the tool. Draw up the tongue jack and have AHC self level. You should see some preload and bend in the bars. If it's straight, there's probably not enough tension. If it's too curved, probably too much.

Congrats. Good luck. And pictures!