I'm guessing the wet weight on the off-shore boat is a bit more than 9k lbs. #liabilityconcern
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (4 Viewers)
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Anyone using this currently? It has a 4” drop and my 200 has a 2” lift. Will this work and how does it compare to a Reese
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PT228-60084 - Genuine Toyota Ball Mount
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the wholesale price for genuine Toyota Accessories, PT228-60084. Ball Mount for $67.26. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
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bloc
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I have it and there is zero benefit over a Reese or whatever part. There were rumors that it was shorter which should help with the long distance from the rear axle to the hitch but it is the same length.. it could be shortened by drilling new holes in the square tube.Anyone using this currently? It has a 4” drop and my 200 has a 2” lift. Will this work and how does it compare to a Reese
PT228-60084 - Genuine Toyota Ball Mount
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the wholesale price for genuine Toyota Accessories, PT228-60084. Ball Mount for $67.26. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
Ive got pictures somewhere.. will see if I can dig them up.
- Thread starter
- #524
If that indicates the TC lockup that's pretty cool. Not sure where that came from but the dashboards can be exported so you might ask whoever posted it if they will share a copy.I like your OBD fusion layout. How are your refresh rates? Well formatted and has just about everything I would want.
While this one is a little busy, I noticed it included a TC Lock ring around the gear dial. I'd like to figure that one out.
It's kinda busy but I suppose if you were using an iPad or other large tablet it would be easily readable when driving. I use my iPhone (not a plus model) and it's sitting below the ask tray normally, so I tend to want something I can quickly glance at and mentally assess without staring at it for too long to interpret.
Mine refreshes fine, every second I think. I've never noticed any sort of lag. I can't recall if I shared the google drive link for my dashboard in an earlier post but if not just let me know and I can post it if anyone wants a place to start
With only a 4” drop on an LC with a 2” lift, you’ll find the ball very high off the ground. Make sure that matches your trailer tongue height. I’m using a 6” drop on a non lifted LC with my standard height utility trailer and boat trailers.Anyone using this currently? It has a 4” drop and my 200 has a 2” lift. Will this work and how does it compare to a Reese
PT228-60084 - Genuine Toyota Ball Mount
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the wholesale price for genuine Toyota Accessories, PT228-60084. Ball Mount for $67.26. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
Yes, the boat is well over the towing limit. It was just to haul the boat and get the oil changed. I have been towing that boat with an LX or LX since 2014 with no problems.
Thanks for the info. That was a Tacoma world post. I'll have to resurrect my old account and reach out. I may hit you up for your layout. It's much better than mine.
Huh, I realized I never updated this thread after my adventures.
With my setup (tough dog 45mm) and the TT tourflex springs in the rear, I went with a drop hitch that would cover everything. That ended up being this one, which allows up for a 10" drop. I went by Uhaul and they said they wouldn't rent to me if the hitch was more than 16" off the ground. I wanted to make sure.
Amazon product ASIN B07CYCB3K3
Then, I got a deal on a new 16x7 trailer that was damaged unloading. One crease up front, $1k off the price, $6200 out the door after TTL. I'm selling this to my contractor cousin after I use it to do the final move this weekend. The place that sells these trailers orders them taller than normal so that it fits everyones side by sides with lightbars and that kind of thing. $535 in fuel eastward, $485 in fuel westward empty. Had 50mph gusts for a headwind the entire trip through NM on the way back which really murdered the gas mileage. This is with the cheap gas from April, too. This image is with the drop hitch at the lowest setting. I'm going to go up a notch or two this time while it's loaded.
With my setup (tough dog 45mm) and the TT tourflex springs in the rear, I went with a drop hitch that would cover everything. That ended up being this one, which allows up for a 10" drop. I went by Uhaul and they said they wouldn't rent to me if the hitch was more than 16" off the ground. I wanted to make sure.
Amazon product ASIN B07CYCB3K3
Then, I got a deal on a new 16x7 trailer that was damaged unloading. One crease up front, $1k off the price, $6200 out the door after TTL. I'm selling this to my contractor cousin after I use it to do the final move this weekend. The place that sells these trailers orders them taller than normal so that it fits everyones side by sides with lightbars and that kind of thing. $535 in fuel eastward, $485 in fuel westward empty. Had 50mph gusts for a headwind the entire trip through NM on the way back which really murdered the gas mileage. This is with the cheap gas from April, too. This image is with the drop hitch at the lowest setting. I'm going to go up a notch or two this time while it's loaded.
I’ve only towed my landscape trailer and another small trailer so far. First week of June I’ll be heading up to Uwharrie N.C. Pulling my 40 on a flat trailer. Truck and trailer are probably less that 5500 lb’s And most of the trip is pretty flat. Don’t really get any hills until you get close to where we are going. That being said, do you guys use the “power” setting when towing usually or only when you are on steep grades? My understanding is that the “power” setting is the equivalent in turning the overdrive off on other vehicles. Not sure if it’s needed or if it’s not unnecessary and you just leave it alone and drive like you normally would while towing. Up until I got my 200 I used my step Dad’s Excursion with the V10 to pull the 40 so I’m anxious to see how the 200 does. We usually go the scenic route so typical speeds are around 55 - 65. TIA
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- #530
I always use ECT PWR when towing. Actually, I always use it period. It doesn't turn off overdrive, just changes the gas pedal sensitivity and how long the transmission holds gears when you don't floor it.
To turn off overdrive you'll need to shift to S mode and then set it to 4th gear on your 2008. (Note the Toyota manual does say you can tow in 5th but I would not recommend it as it generates a lot more transmission heat than 4th and has no benefit on gas mileage).
Ok just picked up the Airstream from the dealership got a hitch added to the back of the trailer. It was a hot day 95 degrees. We went to the cat scales and weighed it Came in pretty heavy. We headed home about 27 miles away. The airstream dealership is about 4200 ft above sea level, we climbed to 6900 ft above sea level. Our temps got really hot, take a look and tell me if this is normal it seems like it’s running super hot. In the heat I felt the LX didn’t tow as good, seemed like he was working pretty hard... Decided to give “George”(the 570) a break and the kiddos happy meals from Mc Donald’s. Park City Utah.
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That's a little warm. Are you using 4th gear? My trans won't creep up like that unless I'm hauling a really long hill and have gotten down to second gear and 55mph kind of towing. I'm pulling a 27fb international serenity.
- Thread starter
- #533
that seems very hot. What gear were you in? I’ve only once seen over 230F and that was at 10k feet climbing up Grand Mesa, CO. Normally I see 200F on the highway. Temps will climb to around 220F if I get down into lower gears (3rd or 2nd for me, probably 3/4/5 for you) when climbing mountain passes though.
I have a 2013 LC which has the 6 speed, but your 2018 LX has the 8 speed. I tow in 4th gear, you should use S mode and tow in 6th.
- Thread starter
- #534
Two other unrelated thoughts.
One is to get a weigh without the trailer as well as with. You can use the unladen weight to determine how much weight is on your tongue and how much you are distributing with the WD hitch
the other is be sure to use premium fuel when towing. i know the LX recommends it anyway, but I have found with my setup it can make a difference in available power
I’ll 2nd the premium when towing. When I travel north in AK 87 octane is the only option, I notice a fairly big difference, even get mild engine knocking sometimes with 87 pulling our ~6800 lb camper uphill.
So I do use premium all the time, and yes I put in s5 and lower, climbing the hill I was in 3rd sometimes in 2nd. It’s parleys summit in Utah, I was trying to keep 50-60mph depending on traffic, The LX on the flats is strong and stable... going up this hill is just brutal... the problem is if I can keep and even 55-60 it would be fine I think. but often times semis (there is 4 lanes) on the slow lane can be going 25-30mph then, the what I call the semi passing lane can be going 40-50 to pass... I have to hit the brakes and from 30mph usually in 2nd get back up to speed only to be cut off again... the other 2 lanes are usually passenger cars the slow lane for them is 65-70 the fast lane is 75-80...Its a pretty high traffic, curvy, long climb of a road lol. only climbing up this hill does it ever get this hot... Typically on the flats 180-200. I travel this route everyday and during the summer I always see 1-2 cars almost daily pulled over on the side of the road over heating, anywhere from passenger cars to heavy duty trucks, the hill seems to be really rough on cars for some reason.
The Suv with just the wife, kids and I weighs in at 6,740 lbs with a full tank. I attached the previous weigh in.
the pro pride hitch I have along with the rock tamers, come in at a whopping 220lbs... plus I upgraded to 6volt golf cart batteries each one 79lbs
It makes me wonder if I should get a duramax 2500??? I don’t want to but also wonder if the LX is up to this hill climb??? Which I have to do to get home
The Suv with just the wife, kids and I weighs in at 6,740 lbs with a full tank. I attached the previous weigh in.
the pro pride hitch I have along with the rock tamers, come in at a whopping 220lbs... plus I upgraded to 6volt golf cart batteries each one 79lbs
It makes me wonder if I should get a duramax 2500??? I don’t want to but also wonder if the LX is up to this hill climb??? Which I have to do to get home
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The thing is that you're at pretty high elevation. In heat. Towing a large load.
I've been there with similar climbs in the Rockies and just about any car is going to be slogging it out.
A general rule of thumb is that a naturally aspirated vehicle loses ~3% power per 1000 ft elevation. At 7000 ft, that's a not insignificant 21% power loss. From 383hp to 303 hp max. Recommendation is to pick a lower gear, pace yourself, and use RPM to allow the engine to more effectively do work and cool itself. Thinner air doesn't cool the radiators as well, so definitely more RPM to increase coolant and oil circulation, and lower combustion pressures.
Expectations should be different when towing and it's not about chasing other cars anymore. I do a 180 from my aggressive solo driving style when solo, to a relaxed paced mode when towing. If I don't feel like I have to push and make time, then the drive becomes relaxing, even with the engine singing at 5000 rpm in those harsh climbs. Pick a lane, and let other cars around you do the work of maneuvering.
With hill climbs, it's really about HP. HP to weight. The 5.7L makes its peak at 5,700 rpm. Even the uber diesels don't make much more than mid to high 400s, but they weigh heck of a lot more. They may feel more relaxed in hill climbs as they make their peak HP at much lower RPMs, but they're not going to move the load any more quickly if you can leverage a gassers HP. Don't let the RPM bother you, it's a sweet singing, smooth, and reliable mill. Where the diesels have an advantage at high elevations is that they are turbo diesels. Forced induction helps against elevation losses.
I've been there with similar climbs in the Rockies and just about any car is going to be slogging it out.
A general rule of thumb is that a naturally aspirated vehicle loses ~3% power per 1000 ft elevation. At 7000 ft, that's a not insignificant 21% power loss. From 383hp to 303 hp max. Recommendation is to pick a lower gear, pace yourself, and use RPM to allow the engine to more effectively do work and cool itself. Thinner air doesn't cool the radiators as well, so definitely more RPM to increase coolant and oil circulation, and lower combustion pressures.
Expectations should be different when towing and it's not about chasing other cars anymore. I do a 180 from my aggressive solo driving style when solo, to a relaxed paced mode when towing. If I don't feel like I have to push and make time, then the drive becomes relaxing, even with the engine singing at 5000 rpm in those harsh climbs. Pick a lane, and let other cars around you do the work of maneuvering.
With hill climbs, it's really about HP. HP to weight. The 5.7L makes its peak at 5,700 rpm. Even the uber diesels don't make much more than mid to high 400s, but they weigh heck of a lot more. They may feel more relaxed in hill climbs as they make their peak HP at much lower RPMs, but they're not going to move the load any more quickly if you can leverage a gassers HP. Don't let the RPM bother you, it's a sweet singing, smooth, and reliable mill. Where the diesels have an advantage at high elevations is that they are turbo diesels. Forced induction helps against elevation losses.
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My rig is very similar weight. I just accept the fact that 35-45mph up the mountain passes is reality. And at all times even cruising the highway I try and keep it ~60 mph max. Above that and in my experience it just feels labored and at 65-70 mph I get <8 mpg.
I'm with @TeCKis300 and @coleAK on the pace going up these mountain passes. When we were in Colorado going over the long 10K' passes I would just settle into the truck lane for 10-15 minutes just as when going down these passes I slow down a lot and use engine compression to control the speed as much as possible. Its one of the very, very minor tradeoffs I make for having an LC and towing a moderately heavy trailer. S mode, S6 (2016 model) and sometimes if the transmission has a hard time deciding between 2 gears I simply "limit" it to using a lower gear and then keep the RPM between ~3-4K. I also run ECT PWR as @linuxgod said. And I use higher octane gas when towing. I don't have the temperature gauge you do but none of the stock indicators have ever suggested an issue.
The "normal" weight for my LC when loaded and with 2 adults is ~6800#. Our trailer GVWR is 6000 and is usually loaded to about 5700. We also use the ProPride hitch. I also have E-rated KO2s set to 42 PSI.
For me, the minor annoyance and having to just slow down is worth having the LC to drive when we get to our destination - and all of the none-towing miles.
The "normal" weight for my LC when loaded and with 2 adults is ~6800#. Our trailer GVWR is 6000 and is usually loaded to about 5700. We also use the ProPride hitch. I also have E-rated KO2s set to 42 PSI.
For me, the minor annoyance and having to just slow down is worth having the LC to drive when we get to our destination - and all of the none-towing miles.
I don’t really mind the speed, going slow doesn’t bother me, my main issue is the trans temp. Going slow I’m not holding up any traffic, most the time the traffic in front of me is slower anyhow. The trans temps just seem high. I took some temps going home the other day 100 degrees in the Valley and about 88 degrees on the mountain pass temps were not bad(picture of the temps is just passengers not towing). I just wonder how much these temps (mid. 250’s)will hurt the transmission??
The LX doesn’t really have ECT on my 2018 there is the button that says ect2nd but when it’s pushed it only goes into 2nd. I just tow in sport+ which is pretty much ect I’m sure.
I am trying to research on talk to technicians to see what is an “acceptable temp range” on the LX trans I will report back anything I find.
Dan your absolutely right all my temp gauges look great. It’s only the app that Linuxgod told me about that shows other wise.
The climb I did was 11 miles straight from the base of the canyon it’s about 4600 feet to the top it’s 7100... there is no flats or down hills on this road it’s a straight climb. We went camping at our local lake and I took an alternate route home climbing a 8% grade for 1 1/2 Miles temps never even Got pass 206... Parley’s is just killer.
The LX doesn’t really have ECT on my 2018 there is the button that says ect2nd but when it’s pushed it only goes into 2nd. I just tow in sport+ which is pretty much ect I’m sure.
I am trying to research on talk to technicians to see what is an “acceptable temp range” on the LX trans I will report back anything I find.
Dan your absolutely right all my temp gauges look great. It’s only the app that Linuxgod told me about that shows other wise.
The climb I did was 11 miles straight from the base of the canyon it’s about 4600 feet to the top it’s 7100... there is no flats or down hills on this road it’s a straight climb. We went camping at our local lake and I took an alternate route home climbing a 8% grade for 1 1/2 Miles temps never even Got pass 206... Parley’s is just killer.
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