Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (17 Viewers)

[bloc]

The impression I get is the people that have experienced sway get convinced of the benefit pretty quickly.

 

[Rando Kuruza]

I checked out a couple of Youtube videos and the weight distribution bars seem to be adjustable but not removable. I think I would be quite a ways down the road by the time the Propride or Hensley was hooked up. From what I've seen they're not for me. Impact wrenches and Johnson bars and grease or wax on the stinger is just too complicated for me.
And Rando, couldn't you just crack a door to stop the AHC from kicking in? One of the back doors would do it.

Hey you can crack the door or just turn off the ahc on the center console. I elect to turn off the car because I hate the exhaust in my face lol. I will say this is my first go at towing a travel trailer, I have a utility trailer that I have towed even up to 6000lbs but the travel trailer is a much different experience. I will say with this hitch I experienced no sway, zero not even a hint, it just towed great. At one point (now remember first time ever towing a travel trailer) I was going down the flat part of a freeway going 60mph talking to the wife driving with one hand on the steering wheel... she said to me “not to stressed about driving the trailer huh” we both laughed and said the air stream and the propride was a good choice. It was 44 miles to tow it home, we were towing through twisty mountain roads with a speed limit of 65 which everyone goes 75, climbed 2500 feet elevation and during traffic hour on the I-80 freeway, basically an interstate with a whole lot of semi trucks! It towed fantastic, I don’t feel like I need a truck, or a bigger suv or anything else, I think this combination is great.

Now the hitching and unhitching I will admit will take some getting use to, but I have hitched and unhitched moving it around the driveway and to its permanent parking spot for the winter...At one point I got sick of waiting for my wife and I hitched it, backed it upped, leveled the trailer side to side, unhitched and set it all up by myself. Not to bad I am sure after about 10more times I will be a pro. But I will say at first it is a pain in the butt to initially install it to the travel trailer and the tow vehicle ( I did it myself with a little help from airstream of utah) it’s Expensive, hard to set up, and a steep learning curve. But in the end I would do it again !! think it’s worth it.

As far as off road once I take it somewhere most likely a graded dirt road I’ll let you know how it handles.

 

[Rando Kuruza]

Yes but was it still on it’s way to an even higher temp and cresting stopped the rise as well as let it lower, or was it holding at 237F (not increasing further) and only cooled down when you created?

I’m just trying to figure out if temps would have climbed even more if the hill were longer.



IIRC a propride doesn’t come apart at the ball because it is basically made rigid at that point. It has a 2” square extension that goes directly into the LX hitch receiver. Which means you not only have to put the tongue weight on the jack, you have to have the hitch and load bar misalignment sorted out or it won’t pull out of the receiver. It never occurred to me that the AHS could make this process difficult but it makes sense now that I think through it.

The temps kept climbing I was keeping it about 3000-3500 rpms. Not sure if having higher rpms would make it perform better and not heat up as much... I’ll try it next time I go up the hill and let you know may not be until springtime though

 

[Dan Higgins]

So to address some of the question on ProPride. I have been using a Hensley (first hitch) and ProPride (when we changed trailers 2 years ago) for 4 years. Love it! As @rando karuza said it essentially eliminates sway (though I still keep an eye on tongue weight) and I was a very nervous/stressed out driver who would notice the slightest bit of sway.

Re: the tow bars. You leave them attached all the time. You don't need to disconnect them in order to do tight backing up due to the virtual pivot point design. (In fact you can do very tight turns.). They aren't in the way and you don't need to deal with them getting on the ground and picking up dirt.

Hitching up. There is a learning curve but here are some tips.

• Since the WD bars are affecting the angle of the hitch's "receiver" I leave them very loose so that there can be some wiggle as I back in.
• I use a backup camera to help with alignment. Some people will be better at aligning things with the LC/LX's backup camera but I prefer one that is centered and that I can attach to either the hitch or the stinger bar.
• I keep a small tape measure handy so that I can set the height of the hitch's receiver, check the height of the WD bar lifters and check the distance from my wheel hubs to my fender. I get a bit OCD about all these things but now that I have the routine down I can do it in less than 5 minutes by myself. In fact I always hitch and unhitch by myself.
• I use a cordless drill to adjust the WD bar lifters. I keep it in a bag along with the tape measure and my backup camera.
• When I disconnect I note whatever is directly in front of my LC (tree, building, etc.) so that when I go to hitch up again I can get it in roughly the same position.
• All this becomes almost second nature after a few tries. We often spend more time positioning the trailer to get the best position under trees or to avoid branches or to get the most level spot or so that the door/stairs don't enter out into a mud hole or to make sure the sewer hoses reach, or simply to get the best possible view from our dinette. LOL! Hitching and unhitching is a piece of cake after all that!

Unhitching. I measured the height of the LC hitch receiver and use the tongue jack to bring the LC to that height. Then I loosen the WD bars until they are fairly loose. Then pull away.

BTW, the best resources for these hitches (aside from the incredible call-me-any-time service provide by the company which I used extensively during the DIY install given that I am clueless when it comes to mechanical stuff) is an Airstream owner's forum. I don't own an Airstream but used that forum a lot when preparing to install and use my ProPride and Hensley.

 

[TeCKis300]

@Rando Kuruza , that's a mighty fine rig and setup you got there. Straight up top self stuff.

Don't worry about the 200-series. Structure, durability, and power (temps)...she's well engineered and stress tested. I just got back from camping in the mountains today. I very often camp in the mountains so grades and switchbacks are familiar. I've definitely climbed some serious grades with more than 80% throttle for many many miles at a time. Notably Kingsbury grade in Tahoe this past hot summer which hits 8% grade at ~7000 ft. I also tend to travel fast and she's very stable going downhill (when setup properly) and I'm not afraid to hit 60-70 mph. She's built tough and won't mind a little bit of heavy work.

Note on climbing, use RPMs to your advantage. The engine is less stressed with RPM than grunting torque (lower cylinder pressures). Fluid circulation and cooling are improved with RPM. This is also true for the transmission, where it also helps to use more gearing to multiply wheel torque.

The 5.7L is a brute and one of the least stressed and durable motors out there. Keeping it under 3,500rpm is artificially limiting performance. Another 30% more power can be had in the upper RPM band. On grades, I'm almost always over 3,500rpm to help the engine run cooler and less stressed. Contrary to popular belief, climbing is done with HP rather than torque. Plenty more power available past 3500rpm.

Fully laden with toys for extended trips:

 

[linuxgod]

Once I crested the hill the temps immediately dropped... it does seem quite hot has anyone else experience these temps climbing long steep grades??? I use the OBD Fusion app like @linuxgod uses.

Was that the A/T pan temp or the torque converter temp that hit 237? Pretty normal in the 6 speed for the T/C to crest 240 on a hill climb in 2nd or 3rd. I've only had my pan temp exceed 230 a couple times though - normally when on a hill climb the TC will heat up but I really just watch the pan temp (which is always the same or lower).

FWIW unless you can maintain 4th gear it'd better to let the engine rev as the A/T fluid gets circulated by engine speed so higher RPMs mean more cooling.

 

[TeCKis300]

How does it tow?? Well I live in the utah mountains and I towed up a 7% pass called Parleys summit it’s a pretty grueling hill and I often see many trucks pulling trailers pulled over and over heating. I had plenty of power but no way could I keep the speed limit of 65mph! I had to drop it to 3rd gear (I have a 2018 LX570) I made it over the hill going 55mph and my transmission temp was at 237 degrees...

A bit more on power. 3rd gear on the 8-speed, @ 55mph, with 33s, puts the engine speed around 3300 rpm per the table below. As mentioned, there's more in the powerband to be had. 2nd gear is a totally legitimate climbing gear in this situation, putting engine RPM @ ~5000. The 5.7L peak HP is rated at 5,600 rpm, and I don't think twice about using it when necessary.

In the steepest of climbs, the 8-speed is particularly well equipped. I find my 6-speed on 33s to fall out of its powerband at lower speeds. @55mph in 2nd gear, I can only get to ~4200 rpm with peak HP out of reach. 1st gear is spaced too far out to help. Likewise for engine braking. Reasons why I'm tossing around the idea to re-gear with a 4.3. Yet I find my 6-speed equipped LX to still be a great performer. I don't think I'd hesitate to tow even larger trailers with the newer 8-speed cruisers.

As a strategy for climbing grades, I'd worry less about what actual gear is being used. It's more about target vehicle speed and engine RPM. If you need more oomph, downshift and let her sing in the upper powerband. The ECU won't allow you to shift if it'll overspeed the engine. The engine is a smooth running mill and it won't hurt her in the least, and is actually preferable from a stress and cooling standpoint. It is a Toyota Land Cruiser after all.

 

[Rando Kuruza]

Linuxgod I’m not sure if it’s AT pan or torque converter but here is a picture of the temp on the app. Is that pan or converter??

teckis30 thanks for all the tips it’s been a great help in getting my set up going. I’m going to try to higher RPM next time I climb the same hill and I’ll report back on the temperature. But I do agree the LX is a beast and I’m really pleased with how it tows!! I think the spacer mod really helps with the AHC.

 

[linuxgod]

@Rando Kuruza thats probably pan but if you’re using OBD Fusion with the add on Toyota enhanced PID pack both are available to you. I’m sure of that because I have both

I think they show up as AT1 and AT2, but the lower Value temp is always the pan

 

[Rando Kuruza]

Thanks

 

[hyboost]

First time towing with the wife’s ‘19 LC this last weekend. I’ve been using my Tundra for years to tow my e30 M3 track car but we needed a 2nd trailer for my old man’s track M3 so I stole the wife’s car to see how it would work.
Installed the Redarc brake controller based on the advice in this post. Thank you, it’s stealth, blending in with the interior and worked great.

Trailer weight: 1100lbs
Car weight: 2500lbs

Zero issues as if nothing was behind me. Didn’t use a WD hitch to see how it would be. Love this car!!! It’s the Swiss Army knife of cars: utility, kid hauler, towing, comfort

 

[scott johnson]

Well I sure hope she tows well because one of the main reasons I got the 200 was to DD and tow my 40 to trail rides!

 

[CharlieS]

Installed the Redarc brake controller based on the advice in this post. Thank you, it’s stealth, blending in with the interior and worked great.

Zero issues as if nothing was behind me. Didn’t use a WD hitch to see how it would be. Love this car!!! It’s the Swiss Army knife of cars: utility, kid hauler, towing, comfort

Agree 100% on all points.

I no longer have my car trailer, but I used to tow with an aluminum Trailex and I couldn't even tell it was there.

 

[NDizzle]

I'm thinking of renting (maybe buying and putting up for sale at my destination) an enclosed cargo trailer to drive from CA to AR. I'm planning my move out of the (great, ha) state of California.

Do you think something like a weight distribution hitch is absolutely required for something like that? It's 2,000 miles. Since I'm lifted I think I'll need one of those L connectors to lower the height of the ball hitch for sure, but I wasn't quite sure if I needed to spend $250 (cheap thing on amazon) to $750 on a real weight distribution system. Thoughts?

 

[LCHardriver_02]

"Do you think something like a weight distribution hitch is absolutely required for something like that? "

Depends upon the trailer gross weight and tongue weight. Also, depending upon the route, some states have tighter requirements than others, so I'd suggest looking into that as well. Typically, this deals more with trailer brake usage, but some mandate a weight distribution hitch when over 2500 lbs gross trailer weight.

Also, something to consider, as I used to tow a trailer that is over 5000 lbs with the LX I had, is sway control. If you are towing a heavy fully enclosed trailer, it can push you around in windy conditions or when meeting large semi style trucks on the road. Something that can be VERY disconcerting when its everything you own.

 

[coleAK]

I'm thinking of renting (maybe buying and putting up for sale at my destination) an enclosed cargo trailer to drive from CA to AR. I'm planning my move out of the (great, ha) state of California.

Do you think something like a weight distribution hitch is absolutely required for something like that? It's 2,000 miles. Since I'm lifted I think I'll need one of those L connectors to lower the height of the ball hitch for sure, but I wasn't quite sure if I needed to spend $250 (cheap thing on amazon) to $750 on a real weight distribution system. Thoughts?

I tow a ton. If your trailer ends up over ~2.5-3k lbs I would do a WD given how of a drive. It makes it tow much better, safer, and easier. Make sure the WD is correctly set up. I’ve used the husky round bar for years. It’s considered a more basic older design but I’ve probably got close to 50k miles towing a ~6800lb camper with no issues.

Husky 30849 Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch with Sway Control Amazon product ASIN B004RCSKPO

 

[NDizzle]

I tow a ton. If your trailer ends up over ~2.5-3k lbs I would do a WD given how of a drive. It makes it tow much better, safer, and easier. Make sure the WD is correctly set up. I’ve used the husky round bar for years. It’s considered a more basic older design but I’ve probably got close to 50k miles towing a ~6800lb camper with no issues.

Husky 30849 Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch with Sway Control Amazon product ASIN B004RCSKPO

That looks good. Obviously if I end up renting a trailer I can't attach the sway control (as I can't drill into a rental) but weight distribution seems like a good idea at minimum. Worst case scenario I rent something from uhaul (or one of their competitors) - a simple 6x12 trailer with the following stats:

• Max load: 2,480 lbs.
• Gross vehicle weight: 4,400 lbs. max.
• Empty weight: 1,920 lbs.

If lightning strikes and I find something reasonable for ~$3k or so, I'll purchase one. The rental itself is $1k ($900 if I rent it from Reno!) for one way. I have several friends that'll let me park it on property while I either sell it at the destination, or keep it...

 

[TeCKis300]

WIth U-Haul trailer, you can generally get away with towing more weight without a WD bar.

They have geometries setup a bit different than most cargo or RV trailers in that they use longer draw bars with axles set back more rearward. They utilize surge brakes which precludes the use of a WD setup anyways.

Whatever you do, key is to keep the hitch ball close and tight to the rear bumper. Get a drop shank that doesn't project the ball too far out. This will maximize the effective wheelbase of the cruiser, and keep things stable. Airing up the tires 3-5 psi can help stability as well.

 

[dnh1]

The LC can tow about anything.

 

[tincan45]

@Rando Kuruza thats probably pan but if you’re using OBD Fusion with the add on Toyota enhanced PID pack both are available to you. I’m sure of that because I have both
View attachment 2148715
I think they show up as AT1 and AT2, but the lower Value temp is always the pan

I like your OBD fusion layout. How are your refresh rates? Well formatted and has just about everything I would want.


While this one is a little busy, I noticed it included a TC Lock ring around the gear dial. I'd like to figure that one out.