Forgot to ask. Are you running LT 10 ply tires or similar to stock? Thanks again.
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)
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I’m running 10 ply LTs. Everything else is stock.
Like @coleAK , I run 10-ply LT tires. I also kept the stock 20" wheels to maximize sidewall stability under tow. If towing heavy, I do believe that upgrading to LT tires will improve resistance against sway and increase stability. I also increase my tire pressures ~4 PSI front and 6 PSI rear, from the 36PSI that I run in my 305/55/20s when not towing.
Not really necessary but I have 1" spacers in my wheels that increase track 2". It's primarily to clear my wide 305 tires. I've never towed without these, but I'm presuming they do lend a tad more lateral stability with the wider stance.
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- #464
Took some measurements when hitching up this weekend. These are ground to top of wheel well opening. Both grey and black tanks were full, fresh tank was empty. The first 2 are over and behind the trailer axle, respectively.
Yes I know center of hub is better but they serve my purpose:
- my standard Tough Dog setup, 240# rear coils, airbags at 5psi, trailer not attached: 38” front, 38.5” rear
- with rear airbags inflated but trailer unhitched: 38” front, 39” rear
- hitched trailer, but weight distribution not yet on: 38 5/8” front, 37.5” rear
- hitched trailer, WD attached and on the 11th link of my BlueOx hitch (highest it goes): 38 1/4” front, 38” rear
Yes I know center of hub is better but they serve my purpose:
- my standard Tough Dog setup, 240# rear coils, airbags at 5psi, trailer not attached: 38” front, 38.5” rear
- with rear airbags inflated but trailer unhitched: 38” front, 39” rear
- hitched trailer, but weight distribution not yet on: 38 5/8” front, 37.5” rear
- hitched trailer, WD attached and on the 11th link of my BlueOx hitch (highest it goes): 38 1/4” front, 38” rear
Last year I went back to the old hitch as I couldnt find a sleeve that would work and I was still a bit edgy from almost losing the trailer in the outskirts of the Colorado Wyoming border.
As previously posted the hole in this hitch was much bigger than the previous one and my Australian Tregg hitch
This caused the washer and the bolt to go inside the hole and it would have gone all the way through had I not noticed it. Fortunately I used a plate from my hi lift between the bolt to ensure a good mount for the rest of the trip
So wanting to loose that 2" from the back of the truck to essentially the ball, I decided to give it another go. I tried the 3/4" to 1" bushing and it was too small. I tried the 1 to 1 1/4 bushing and it was too big. So I cut the smaller one in two and reshaped it a bit.
I then aligned it in the center. Initially tried a side but that made the hitch a bit cockeyed
I also couldn't find a big enough washer with the right size hole so I bought the biggest Zinc coated one I could find at Home Depot and dremeled the hole until it fit. I also bought a 1" lock washer to use instead of the one the hitch came with. Even with the flat washer, I wanted a lock washer that was bigger than the hole
I'll tighten it when I put it on the truck. I do not expect any issues with this. Probably not an issue for most as they can get a ball with a bigger shank. I had a unique situation
Reading it, people will wonder what I am talking about. Below are two posts that show the Toyota part number for a hitch that reduces the length from the back of the truck to the ball, providing increased stability for the trailer. Also quoted is my picture showing the difference
Teckis300 can I ask you what brand and where you bought 20mm rear spring spacers??? Thanks
Gents,
I want to thank everyone for the advice. Traded the Tundra in on a 2016 LC w/24k miles yesterday. Looking forward to adding airbags, new 10 plys, hooking up my equalizer w/WD and giving the 28ft FC a trip. Having driven up-armored LCs down range, I'm confident she can handle the airstream w/confidence. Thanks again!
-AD
I want to thank everyone for the advice. Traded the Tundra in on a 2016 LC w/24k miles yesterday. Looking forward to adding airbags, new 10 plys, hooking up my equalizer w/WD and giving the 28ft FC a trip. Having driven up-armored LCs down range, I'm confident she can handle the airstream w/confidence. Thanks again!
-AD
- Thread starter
- #469
I moved from EngineLink to OBD Fusion recently. OBD Fusion is $10, and it was another $10 to get the Toyota enhanced PIDs. However they're very helpful and include two transmissions temperatures (pan and torque converter, I assume) as well as engine oil temp (which is a formula I didn't have). They also have air-fuel ratios (both "requested" and "actual"), which I have on a different screen. The only thing I couldn't find was a gauge to measure brake fluid temp. I'm not sure if the ECU can actually tell that though. I was sitting parked for a few minutes when I took this - under normal use in 4th gear at ~65 mph all 4 temp gauges read around 194-196F. Transmission is running around 200F when I'm crusing at ~75mph.
Anyway well worth the $20 IMO. Here's the custom dashboard I put together. I tried t make the gauges kinda like the LC. With 34s on the truck, GPS speed is more accurate than the speedometer. Gear works when in S or D (reads 1-6 correctly) but Neutral up through Park just show up as other numerical values.
Anyway well worth the $20 IMO. Here's the custom dashboard I put together. I tried t make the gauges kinda like the LC. With 34s on the truck, GPS speed is more accurate than the speedometer. Gear works when in S or D (reads 1-6 correctly) but Neutral up through Park just show up as other numerical values.
Solid! Glad you found what you were finally looking for.
Interesting that the ECU actually report altitude? Wonder how indirectly or directly measure that.
I'd be interested just for that instant digital fuel economy readout while towing. My '09 LX has a really coarse bar graph, the is practically useless to discern quantitative data.
Separately, what's your perception of of the lower gears, specifically 1 and 2, with 34s?
I do sometimes wish for the 8 speed as accelerating on major grades 6+% from a standstill in the mountains sometimes feels like it could use more gearing. Then the shift to 2nd is so wide, that if I didn't make sure to wind out first, will really put me out of the powerband in second. This is for 33.2" tires.
Interesting that the ECU actually report altitude? Wonder how indirectly or directly measure that.
I'd be interested just for that instant digital fuel economy readout while towing. My '09 LX has a really coarse bar graph, the is practically useless to discern quantitative data.
Separately, what's your perception of of the lower gears, specifically 1 and 2, with 34s?
I do sometimes wish for the 8 speed as accelerating on major grades 6+% from a standstill in the mountains sometimes feels like it could use more gearing. Then the shift to 2nd is so wide, that if I didn't make sure to wind out first, will really put me out of the powerband in second. This is for 33.2" tires.
Sorry I missed this.
I got mine from Amazon
Caveat is that they shipped me the wrong 10mm version. As I needed to get on a trip, rather than swap my existing 10mm with this new 20mm spacer, I just stacked both to get the 20mm I wanted. One is between the chassis and coil isolator/bump stop, and one is between the coil isolater/bump stop and spring.
The 10mm version (pictured) was the right diameter to fit over the coil isolator. So I imagine their 20mm would be as well.
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- #472
Pretty sure Altitide comes from the GPS, similar to GPS Speed. You can get lat/lon as well
The instant fuel economy gauge is nice.
I hear the 8 speed handles larger tires better than the 6 speed. I found 34s on the 6 speed with ECT PWR enabled feel similar to stock tires (31s) with the transmission in "eco/normal" mode. I did note the same thing to my wife this trip that I think Toyota choose too short a 2nd gear as I need to run 1st out past 5500 RPMs when trying to accelerate to keep the truck in the power band when it goes to 2nd (about 3300-3500RPMs). The 2-3 shift is right on IMO.
I am planning to re-gear to 4:88s this winter. My fuel economy does suck, I don't feel I get enough drag even in 2nd when descending those 8% mountain grades, and I spend a lot of time in 2nd right now when climbing highway mountain passes like Monarch in CO which just feel like a slog. I know 4.88s won't solve everything of course.
bloc
SILVER Star
Some manufacturers put a barometric pressure sensor within the MAF assembly. That said.. it wouldn’t be too hard/expensive to put the sensor within the ECU itself on the board but you’d lose the ability to change it if it failed.
Speed is a mileage killer, fo all vehicles, not just the LC. Towed our Casita (around 3000lbs loaded) from Tampa to Key Largo last week for a 10 night stay. We always select “avoid highways” when towing as we’re not in a hurry. Averaged 14mpg with speeds between 45 and 55 mph.
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
Is your rig heavy? I’m on 33’s with a light build. I’m going 4.30 that will get me a tad below stock w/31” tires.
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- #476
@bloc I need to check the OBD Fusion app but I'm 99% sure there's a separate section with the GPS values which is where I got the altitude. I don't think the ECU knows anything about it directly, but I'm sure the ECU uses the lower MAF readings indirectly to keep the A/F mix at 14.6:1. There might be a barometic pressure reading in the MAF... if you're really curious I can check and report back on the various extended PIDs
@catastrofe - mileage definitely drops off with speed, but it sucks no matter what with a big heavy rectangular box behind me. With a 6000# trailer 9' tall and 8' wide I get about 7MPG @ 75, 8MPG @ 65, and 9MPG @ 55. +/- 0.5MPG depending on wind, road grades, etc. I did the math though and on a long road trip (20-30 horus) I'd rather get 7MPG and get somewhere hours earlier than go 55 and save a few bucks. I did find premium helped a bit with mileage and quite a bit with available power on tap (without standing on the skinny pedal) this trip, which is something I should probably write up in the future.
@SQRRRL - Yes, it's heavy. We're about 7300-7400# with kids, cooler, dog, etc. Trailer is another 6000#, of which ~800-850# is on the tongue. I considered 4.30 gears to get me back to the stock gearing (slightly taller) when on 34s but given how much of a slog towing is in the mountains I think others on this forum are probably right to go with 4.88s. On stock tires 4.30 would be about right with my trailer.
@catastrofe - mileage definitely drops off with speed, but it sucks no matter what with a big heavy rectangular box behind me. With a 6000# trailer 9' tall and 8' wide I get about 7MPG @ 75, 8MPG @ 65, and 9MPG @ 55. +/- 0.5MPG depending on wind, road grades, etc. I did the math though and on a long road trip (20-30 horus) I'd rather get 7MPG and get somewhere hours earlier than go 55 and save a few bucks. I did find premium helped a bit with mileage and quite a bit with available power on tap (without standing on the skinny pedal) this trip, which is something I should probably write up in the future.
@SQRRRL - Yes, it's heavy. We're about 7300-7400# with kids, cooler, dog, etc. Trailer is another 6000#, of which ~800-850# is on the tongue. I considered 4.30 gears to get me back to the stock gearing (slightly taller) when on 34s but given how much of a slog towing is in the mountains I think others on this forum are probably right to go with 4.88s. On stock tires 4.30 would be about right with my trailer.
This is a big one that we've not talked about much on the forums. I've certainly been on a few descents over 8%, fully laden and likely over GCWR (14,645 lbs) on 33's, where I wished I could grab first gear to get enough engine braking.
Yet that requires slowing down to something much below 20 mph for the ECU to let it shift down. The ECU is a bit too conservative in that it won't allow the downshift even if it won't overspeed the engine. I imagine it's likely protecting from a situation where a lurch of engine braking upon downshift, might momentarily cause a loss of traction.
The 8-speed and/or more gearing will certainly help in giving the engine more leverage in acceleration and braking to your point.
One of the basics in configuring vehicles for much heavier weights is gearing. Which is how a standard Ford V-10 can be used in HD trucks and motorhomes that are in excess of 20k++ pounds. I with you that you'll want better than stock gearing if you're traveling that heavy that often.
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
Copy that. i don’t see the need to go heavier for my application. 4.30 will be like 4.10 on stock tires.
Now I just need to convince myself that I don’t need Toyota gears and go with Nitro. Good luck. Thanks again.
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- #479
If I was going 4.30 I'd get a set of Tundra gears from Toyota. Possibly just pull-offs from a wrecked truck. Likely cheaper and Toyota gears seem to be very strong
Teck,
So I am getting ready to pull the trigger on an airstream. I have taken out the AHC system on my lx470 and replaced it with land cruiser suspension so I think I can tackle adding a spacers on my LX570 Question I have for you?
When I do this what do I need to do with the AHC system? obviously I want to turn it off. Do I unplug the battery?. I am going to be pulling off the shocks to get the springs out once I get it all together will the AHC just automatically recalibrate itself or do I need to do something special? I don’t know a whole lot about the AHC I am going to just follow your lead and add some spacers as it makes sense that it will help the AHC with the airstreams high tongue weight... the wife and I settle on a 25fb we love the 28rb but feel the lx570 may not be up to the task...
Any tips, advice, direction would be helpful I want to get this set up prior to picking up the airstream. Thanks
I have a 2018 LX570, with 275/60r20 BFG KO2 tires. Other wise stock
