Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (7 Viewers)

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My wife, son and I were sking in February and my wife got hit by another skier and tore her ACL. She then got surgery April 1st and was in pretty rough shape for a while, so this is our first trip of the year with the trailer.

I bought a new Redarc tow pro elite since my other one had been finicky and this one seems to be 100% better. It has no issues when I plug the trailer in and seems to already be calibrated even though I had not towed before. It is still a bit aggressive coming to a stop though. I have to release the brake pedal starting from about 10 mph because the trailer brakes seem to ramp up below that speed and kind jerk to a stop.
nice choice of tires, you like them,?
 
nice choice of tires, you like them,?
For not doing extreme offroading, yes, they are fantastic. 52lbs for a 315/70 and they are super cheap. This set was <$900 for a set of 5 brand new. $900!

I like them better than the 285/70 KO2’s I ran on my GX and the 315/70 KO2 I ran on my F150 before

My only complaint is they fling rocks.
 
Yes, I believe it's under the thread "fitting full fat 35's" where @TeCKis300 details the process for this.

Most AHC related writeups can be found in the links in my sig.

If you're asking about sensor lift and/or height offset tool, here's a larger thread on the topic. Though I'd encourage you to sort out the rub independent of lift if you're going to wheel it.

I did the AHC height mod this morning in about 5 minutes. God bless the AHC system. Zeroed out the adjustment and took the rake out. A short test drive revealed a lesser scraping on the wheel well........ and it looks cooler.

It would seen to me that this should be a standed part of putting larger tires on.

Of course, all that was needed was 2 10mm wrenches, standard kit in any LC IMO
 
Interesting I never knew controller output was a function of engine RPM. The LC/LX brake controller algorithm seems like magic, none of it is precisely documented AFAIK.

I have a Tow Pro Elite and I leave it at 3.5-4 all the time. I am a frequent user of downshifting as I learned the hard way on a trip back & forth from MD to upstate NY.

I've read a lot of reports on the Tow Pro's behavior and I'm beginning to conclude that the braking experience is as much a function of your trailer's brake design and number of wheels as anything else. For example I have 4 wheels and 4 brakes on a 5500lb trailer. Other trailers of similar weight have 2 wheels and 2 brakes.
Technically the trailer brake voltage seems to be a function of brake boost, not necessarily RPM, but the brake boost increases some as ROMs increase, so braking force is more linear if you try to keep the RPMs above a certain point when stopping (maybe 2000?)
 
Technically the trailer brake voltage seems to be a function of brake boost, not necessarily RPM, but the brake boost increases some as ROMs increase, so braking force is more linear if you try to keep the RPMs above a certain point when stopping (maybe 2000?)
I thought that the controller merely tapped into the brake light circuit to “wake” the controller and the accelerometers in the controller sets the output. This is why I thought that the P3 has to be fairly level for the accelerometers to work correctly. But you’re saying that the controller taps into a proportionally controlled circuit? How does that work on vehicles that don’t have a proportional circuit to tap into?
 
I thought that the controller merely tapped into the brake light circuit to “wake” the controller and the accelerometers in the controller sets the output. This is why I thought that the P3 has to be fairly level for the accelerometers to work correctly. But you’re saying that the controller taps into a proportionally controlled circuit? How does that work on vehicles that don’t have a proportional circuit to tap into?
I wondered the same thing. As an engineer i have chased many a ghost cause after seeing an observrd effect. If there is a relationship between engine rpm and brake output then it should be measurable electrically.

However, if the true cause and effect is velocity and inertia caused by braking then there is indeed a relation to engine rpm, albeit an indirect one.

But I absolutely have no idea.
 
I thought that the controller merely tapped into the brake light circuit to “wake” the controller and the accelerometers in the controller sets the output. This is why I thought that the P3 has to be fairly level for the accelerometers to work correctly. But you’re saying that the controller taps into a proportionally controlled circuit? How does that work on vehicles that don’t have a proportional circuit to tap into?
Not sure but go try it and you’ll see the braking force is stronger and more linear if you keep the engine RPMs up instead of braking at basically engine idle. I could be wrong, but it definitely seems like this is the case.
 
The trailer brake controller interface is exceedingly basic: brake lamps and inertial deceleration. Detecting the brake lamps coming on will wake or enable the braking function. It then measures how much deceleration is happening through its internal accelerometers, and proportionately outputs a modulated voltage to engage the trailer brakes. The output factors gain and whatever algorithmic manipulation it has within the brake controllers own logic.

Brake controllers have no clue whether deceleration is due to caliper brakes or engine braking. Nor does it take any modulated signal from the tow vehicle. It just measures total deceleration and proportionately matches trailer brake.

I have not observed any rpm based voltage modulation other than what the brake controller is inertially responding to with engine braking itself.
 
The trailer brake controller interface is exceedingly basic: brake lamps and inertial deceleration. Detecting the brake lamps coming on will wake or enable the braking function. It then measures how much deceleration is happening through its internal accelerometers, and proportionately outputs a modulated voltage to engage the trailer brakes. The output factors gain and whatever algorithmic manipulation it has within the brake controllers own logic.

Brake controllers have no clue whether deceleration is due to caliper brakes or engine braking. Nor does it take any modulated signal from the tow vehicle. It just measures total deceleration and proportionately matches trailer brake.

I have not observed any rpm based voltage modulation other than what the brake controller is inertially responding to with engine braking itself.
I believe my P3 does know the difference between friction brakes and engine braking. It doesn’t activate when I’m simply decelerating. However, I’ll check for sure on that tomorrow as I spend what will seem like eternity crossing Kansas.
 
I believe my P3 does know the difference between friction brakes and engine braking. It doesn’t activate when I’m simply decelerating. However, I’ll check for sure on that tomorrow as I spend what will seem like eternity crossing Kansas.

Right. But that's because you're not on the brakes and triggering the brake switch/lamp switch to enable any proportional braking.

Once on the brakes, it doesn't discern between decel provided by the engine or calipers or both.
 
I was up in Teton NP last weekend and came home Monday. Probably one of the least enjoyable towing experiences I've had over the years and managed to get some of the worst sustained gas mileage I have ever had. On one 122 mile stretch from Afton WY to Evanston WY I averaged 6.45 mpg hand calc'd. Dash said 6.0 because of the tires(315/70's) which works out to ~6.5 correcting for the tire size. Winds were blowing right in our faces pretty much the whole route sustained at mid 20's to mid 30's and gusts into the 50's.

IMG_7719.webp
IMG_7723.webp


This forced me to run in 4th and 3rd gear(with my 8 speed) for long stretches because I was needing 150-170 hp to maintain 55-60mph. Since the TC unlocks 100% of the time in the 8 speed in any gears below 5th, this was causing my transmission temps to get pretty hot. This screen shot is just from driving on flat ground somewhere around 55-60 mph with maybe some slight rolling hills.

IMG_0042.webp


Another gem climbing a pretty steep grade(10% in some spots) after extended 4th gear on the flatter ground leading up to the hill.

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Overall it sucked. I could really only do 55-60mph without causing the transmission to heat up beyond 230F on the flat sections of road.
 
I was up in Teton NP last weekend and came home Monday. Probably one of the least enjoyable towing experiences I've had over the years and managed to get some of the worst sustained gas mileage I have ever had. On one 122 mile stretch from Afton WY to Evanston WY I averaged 6.45 mpg hand calc'd. Dash said 6.0 because of the tires(315/70's) which works out to ~6.5 correcting for the tire size. Winds were blowing right in our faces pretty much the whole route sustained at mid 20's to mid 30's and gusts into the 50's.

View attachment 3907642View attachment 3907643

This forced me to run in 4th and 3rd gear(with my 8 speed) for long stretches because I was needing 150-170 hp to maintain 55-60mph. Since the TC unlocks 100% of the time in the 8 speed in any gears below 5th, this was causing my transmission temps to get pretty hot. This screen shot is just from driving on flat ground somewhere around 55-60 mph with maybe some slight rolling hills.

View attachment 3907653

Another gem climbing a pretty steep grade(10% in some spots) after extended 4th gear on the flatter ground leading up to the hill.

View attachment 3907658

Overall it sucked. I could really only do 55-60mph without causing the transmission to heat up beyond 230F on the flat sections of road.
Thanks for sharing. The struggle must have been tough! What app are you running for that data? I have OBD Fusion but it doesn’t given any of those detailed temps. Maybe there is another paid tier I’m missing.
 
I was up in Teton NP last weekend and came home Monday. Probably one of the least enjoyable towing experiences I've had over the years and managed to get some of the worst sustained gas mileage I have ever had. On one 122 mile stretch from Afton WY to Evanston WY I averaged 6.45 mpg hand calc'd. Dash said 6.0 because of the tires(315/70's) which works out to ~6.5 correcting for the tire size. Winds were blowing right in our faces pretty much the whole route sustained at mid 20's to mid 30's and gusts into the 50's.

View attachment 3907642View attachment 3907643

This forced me to run in 4th and 3rd gear(with my 8 speed) for long stretches because I was needing 150-170 hp to maintain 55-60mph. Since the TC unlocks 100% of the time in the 8 speed in any gears below 5th, this was causing my transmission temps to get pretty hot. This screen shot is just from driving on flat ground somewhere around 55-60 mph with maybe some slight rolling hills.

View attachment 3907653

Another gem climbing a pretty steep grade(10% in some spots) after extended 4th gear on the flatter ground leading up to the hill.

View attachment 3907658

Overall it sucked. I could really only do 55-60mph without causing the transmission to heat up beyond 230F on the flat sections of road.
Interesting. I'll be going from Salt Lake City to Gros Ventre campground this summer. I think I'll take I-15 route.
 
Interesting. I'll be going from Salt Lake City to Gros Ventre campground this summer. I think I'll take I-15 route.
Thats where we stayed as well. Its a really nice spot. I took 89 through Star Valley down to Evanston.

Honestly, 15 sucks too though. Once you get out into ID its flat and the wind kicks up there. I was coming back from West Yellowstone last June in 90+ F temps and headwinds and the LX was really struggling. I was stuck doing 40-45 mph on some hills and seeing really high transmission temps. Its a roll of the dice on what weather you are gunna get on travel days.

Also, Teton pass is pretty epic. Pulling that on a hot day is gunna be a serious grind. The top of the Idaho side is really steep.
 
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Thats where we stayed as well. Its a really nice spot. I took 89 through Star Valley down to Evanston.

Honestly, 15 sucks too though. Once you get out into ID its flat and the wind kicks up there. I was coming back from West Yellowstone last June in 90+ F temps and headwinds and the LX was really struggling. I was stuck doing 40-45 mph on some hills and seeing really high transmission temps. Its a roll of the dice on what weather you are gunna get on travel days.

Also, Teton pass is pretty epic. Pulling that on a hot day is gunna be a serious grind. The top of the Idaho side is really steep.
Well that's great to know. I've wondered about the routes. Now I don't have to worry that I don't have something to worry about LOL. UGH.
What kind of weight a are you towing?
 
Well that's great to know. I've wondered about the routes. Now I don't have to worry that I don't have something to worry about LOL. UGH.
What kind of weight a are you towing?
5500 lb GVWR. The aero drag is the biggest issue, not necessarily the weight. My GX460 would tow a 5500 lb dump trailer at 70 mph without much issue but really stuggled with my 5500 lb travel trailer

Ill put the towing conditions in UT, ID, and especially WY up there with some of the toughest places to tow anywhere, and I dont just mean in the US. The elevation, temperatures, winds and posted freeway speed limits are an epic combo.

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5500 lb GVWR. The aero drag is the biggest issue, not necessarily the weight. My GX460 would tow a 5500 lb dump trailer at 70 mph without much issue but really stuggled with my 5500 lb travel trailer

Ill put the towing conditions in UT, ID, and especially WY up there with some of the toughest places to tow anywhere, and I dont just mean in the US. The elevation, temperatures, winds and posted freeway speed limits are an epic combo.

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Hoo boy.
5500 lbs is my weight also and I'm not super experienced at towing.
 
Thanks for sharing. The struggle must have been tough! What app are you running for that data? I have OBD Fusion but it doesn’t given any of those detailed temps. Maybe there is another paid tier I’m missing.
OBDFusions twin, OBDLink. You need to download the enhanced diagnostics package for your model year and it should give you the extra PID’s
 
OBDFusions twin, OBDLink. You need to download the enhanced diagnostics package for your model year and it should give you the extra PID’s
Ah ok. Love having to pay for an app only to pay more for what I actually want:)
 
Ah ok. Love having to pay for an app only to pay more for what I actually want:)
If you have an OBDLink Bluetooth module, then you can use there app and get one or two of the enhanced diagnostics packages for free. Thats why I use it. At the time I bought my module, OBDLink was one of the few making an iPhone compatible Bluetooth module
 

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