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I have an Iceco 75L dual zone fridge freezer that never leaves the LX even when we have the trailer. I honestly trust it more than the fridge in the trailer, it is larger and we always have food on trails or where ever we are doing. Plus between the two we can pack for a week.
Do the 37s rub? AHC delete?
I have both. Even before having the fridge we used to keep drinks and lunch for the day in the truck cooler. It’s also helpful for overflow when you realize you can’t fit everything for 2 weeks in the camper fridge, or when you want to buy something in town but it’s an hour or more back to camp
Thanks for this as it was exactly what we were thinking. So we'll definitely take the Dometic 75 Liter.
So my 33s rub a bit. I also have after market wheels, Icons.
Yes, I believe it's under the thread "fitting full fat 35's" where @TeCKis300 details the process for this.
forum.ih8mud.com
And this seems better than the last one? How bad was the last one? I don’t want to come across as a total jerk but that isn’t the way your brakes are supposed to work at all. They should be functioning almost undetectable from no trailer. I have never set up a Redarc but hopefully someone can help with this.
My redarc stops fine and undetectably. It’s during stop and go when I get down to around 2 mph, riding the brake a bit that it starts to get very grabby. I’ve adjusted my driving style but it still sometimes happens and is annoying. My old tekonsha did not do this.
It works great 99.9% of the time, except when rolling up to a stop at very low speeds, which I might do 3 times on a 5 hour trip. It’s fine I just adjust how I release the brake pedal slightly.
Nice looking rig. I’ll ask the obvious - where do you have the Redarc set? Maybe dial it back a click or two?
I run mine around 6-7 on the highway and 5-6 in the city. I find my brakes get grabbier once hot. Also I recommend downshifting manually - the voltage to the brake controller is based on brake boost and seems to ramp up until like 2-3k rpms so revving the engine will increase braking force at low speed which allows you to brake more consistently. Otherwise the brake controller is weak when braking and the engine being almost idle, but will suddenly brake hard as the transmission downshifts and the engine revs a bit, if that makes sense
Interesting I never knew controller output was a function of engine RPM. The LC/LX brake controller algorithm seems like magic, none of it is precisely documented AFAIK.
You may have misunderstood my post. The Redarc doesn’t care about RPM’s. It has 2 modes and one is based on inertia. It’s the proportional control and, for some reason, tends to be more aggressive at very low speeds found in stop and go traffic. When you first install the controller it begins its calibration and this allows the controller to learn its orientation and based on braking force will apply what it thinks is best braking needed based on your speed and brake force with the dial setting being a force multiplier.
Yes I think I did misunderstand. I'm familiar with the modes but never initiated manual mode. There was a case where we had sway and we probably should have used manual but didn't.
I think you still misunderstand…
No actually I get it with the modes. My reply was poorly written. You can get into manual mode which shows as green, and stay there. Then there's the mode where you're allowing the controller to take over ( blue). Switching requires stopping as you describe. What i was referring to was where we were running in regular blue mode and were overtaken by a large truck which caused us to sway rather severely. It is then that we could have applied the trailer brakes manually by pressing the button. That's not switching modes, per se, rather a temporary manual override.
