Tool for coolant block drain on FJ60? (1 Viewer)

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Any advice on a tool to crack the block drain bolt to flush the coolant on a 2F? This seems like a pretty good option.

A couple years ago, I did a halfway job with a coolant refresh because I couldn't get that little square 13mm drain bolt loose with a puny box wrench. I picked up a six-point 13mm impact socket, but it doesn't seem to fit the square shaped bolt. Thanks!
 
Mine is regular hexagonal shape. Maybe someone put in a square one in the past.
 
12 point will fit a square plug.

8 point sockets work better and less chance of rounding the corners
but not everyone has them
 
Any advice on a tool to crack the block drain bolt to flush the coolant on a 2F? This seems like a pretty good option.

A couple years ago, I did a halfway job with a coolant refresh because I couldn't get that little square 13mm drain bolt loose with a puny box wrench. I picked up a six-point 13mm impact socket, but it doesn't seem to fit the square shaped bolt. Thanks!
Mine is regular hexagonal shape. Maybe someone put in a square one in the past.
Huh. Yeah mine is certainly square.
Original was hex head
8 point sockets work better and less chance of rounding the corners
but not everyone has them
12 point will fit a square plug.


this is the latest and greatest from the NON-USA Far Away in Block Drains Design Feature Updates since the early 1970's

:D





1657097840500.png










 
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Success! Got a vice grip around it, heated it with a torch, and managed to slip a crowbar between the header pipes which I smacked with a hammer to crack it loose. @ToyotaMatt I picked up that drain plug you suggested and it seems good! I’ll let you know the next time I do a drain…
 
Small change, but the drain from the 3UR looks very similar with the exception that it has a spout built into it. No tube needed. Just have to use a bushing to account for the fitting size delta.
 
Success! Got a vice grip around it, heated it with a torch, and managed to slip a crowbar between the header pipes which I smacked with a hammer to crack it loose. @ToyotaMatt I picked up that drain plug you suggested and it seems good! I’ll let you know the next time I do a drain…


3UR BLOCK Drain looks this , and has a ODD spout that will make the use of the WIZ-KID full proof anti-spill in your face / burn your arm pits with scalding coolant ,

the use of the CLEAR tubing approach to draining the block , is simply the use of MODERN materials with a purist oem Toyota mind set approach


the use of a clear tube directly in a bucket , is green theme for out environment too :cool:


any thoughts on witch one is more F / 2F / 3F / 3FE owner operator friendly ?


1658459433947.png
 
Question on the installation of the later / alternative plug.

I have the 90910-09120 part in post #8 above for my 87, 2F.

Regarding the green dried thread sealant...I am not familiar with a pre-applied sealant ...is that enough to prevent leaks, just install and go?
 
It's a tapered pipe thread so the pre-applied green stuff is fine, but whenever I see it, I wire-wheel it off and use high-temp Permatex. Not necessary, but the factory green stuff also seems to be some kind of loctite which I don't want.

Small tube like $5 at Vatozone.

1706901435660.png
 
Question on the installation of the later / alternative plug.

I have the 90910-09120 part in post #8 above for my 87, 2F.

Regarding the green dried thread sealant...I am not familiar with a pre-applied sealant ...is that enough to prevent leaks, just install and go?


.



It's a tapered pipe thread so the pre-applied green stuff is fine, but whenever I see it, I wire-wheel it off and use high-temp Permatex. Not necessary, but the factory green stuff also seems to be some kind of loctite which I don't want.

Small tube like $5 at Vatozone.

View attachment 3548510

i have these NEW Japan spec. OEM TOYOTA Engine Block Drain w/ Molded Tubing Kits listed now via online parts store

and

YES , it fits ALL land Cruiser F series engines 1962-1990 F F1.5 2F 3F 3FE


thanks

:)




.
1706906739526.png
 
Thanks Spike! That makes sense, I wonder if the dried stuff just gets activated once it heats up?

Shouldn't hurt to start with a fresh application of sealant! Thanks for the info and tip,
 
Yeah, it probably works something like that. If it's a hassle for you to get the permatex, straight install with the green factory sealant is fine. Just clean the block threads, if you can.
 
Guys... It's OE sealant. Don't overthink it. Thread it in - carry on.
 
this is the latest and greatest from the NON-USA Far Away in Block Drains Design Feature Updates since the early 1970's

:D





square plug sockets are called pipe plug sockets, they come in male and female, 1/2" or 3/8" drive


 
Any advice on a tool to crack the block drain bolt to flush the coolant on a 2F? This seems like a pretty good option.

A couple years ago, I did a halfway job with a coolant refresh because I couldn't get that little square 13mm drain bolt loose with a puny box wrench. I picked up a six-point 13mm impact socket, but it doesn't seem to fit the square shaped bolt. Thanks!
they are commonly called "pipe plug sockets". use that parameter and you'll speed up your goggle search
 

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