Too Much Grease in Drive Shaft? (1 Viewer)

[NMuzj100]

But, I have learned a fix (secret fix) used at the Lexus Dealer for the thumb issue; is to drill a very small hole in this plate, this is to relieve pressure and allow the shaft to move as intended.

Adding a pressure relief hole to the slip yoke plug is a good idea. Spicer/Dana Slip yokes come with these holes from the factory. When you grease you cover the hole to force the grease to flow to the splines.

For those concerned about pressure on the driveline I think this is a better idea than under greasing.

#1 Grease is a good idea for improving flow in the shaft and maybe if you are using one of the stickier polymer greases like the Amsoil Offroad Grease.

 

[2001LC]

Adding a pressure relief hole to the slip yoke plug is a good idea. Spicer/Dana Slip yokes come with these holes from the factory. When you grease you cover the hole to force the grease to flow to the splines.

I like that, and wish I could "cover the hole" so I could force more grease to the spline.

This has been my chief concern {not getting enough clean grease to the spline and seal} with the way my metal cap is allowing the grease seepage, while lubing. I Have considered giving the cap a good whack with a two pound hammer, in the hopes it would tighten.

A consideration with a small hole, is; allowing contamination to enter the hole, when the shaft pulls apart (creating a vacuum). A check value would solve this issues, and may be better solution for the long term, than an open small hole.

 

[NMuzj100]

Sounds like you'll need to remove the driveshaft and reseat the yoke plug.

I think a check valve would add unnecessary complexity to the system. A press fit rubber plug might be perfect. The major manufacturers just leave the hole open.

 

[2001LC]

Sounds like you'll need to remove the driveshaft and reseat the yoke plug.

I think a check valve would add unnecessary complexity to the system. A press fit rubber plug might be perfect. The major manufacturers just leave the hole open.

Ya, one day I'll need to get that yoke plug tighten, but it's a better seal against contaminates than a hole, and only leaks under heavy pressure.

A simple rubber plug check value would be a nice touch.

#1 Grease is a good idea for improving flow in the shaft and maybe if you are using one of the stickier polymer greases like the Amsoil Offroad Grease.

I've not tried the new polymer grease, just using Amsoil GHD #1 w/moly. Actual went with Amsoil because it was the only #1 that was readily available. I needed it for my front axle bushings & needle bearings per FSM. Additional it's available with moly, which I like that moly has rejuvenating properties, additionally I felt it could help with any stiction issues I may have had.

 

[NMuzj100]

I'm not actually recommending the Amsoil Off-road Grease.

I am still using the Amsoil Heavy Duty Extreme Pressure Grease (Moly Fortified) like you are only in the #2. Now that it has been discontinued I am going to Schaeffers #238.

 

[2001LC]

I didn't know it was being discontinued. I just pick up 3 tubes of #2 for $15 from a local Amsoil rep. Some of His stuff is very old and poorly labeled.

I wonder if grease has a useful shelf life?

 

[spressomon]

I didn't know it was being discontinued. I just pick up 3 tubes of #2 for $15 from a local Amsoil rep. Some of His stuff is very old and poorly labeled.

I wonder if grease has a useful shelf life?

Maybe common with some/most grease but the Amsoil #1 (red colored syn) and #2 (blue-green colored water resistant syn) I've been using the oil separates after not too long a time on the shelf. I don't remember the moly lube I used to use 15-20 years doing this.

NMuzj100: You sound like the lubrication expert: Why do some greases separate and others don't?

 

[Tinkerer]

Maybe common with some/most grease but the Amsoil #1 (red colored syn) and #2 (blue-green colored water resistant syn) I've been using the oil separates after not too long a time on the shelf. I don't remember the moly lube I used to use 15-20 years doing this.

NMuzj100: You sound like the lubrication expert: Why do some greases separate and others don't?

I've seen more separation of synthetic type grease after long term storage compared to conventional grease. Maybe this is expected for some reason.

 

[NMuzj100]

the Amsoil ... I've been using the oil separates after not too long a time on the shelf. I don't remember the moly lube I used to use 15-20 years doing this.

NMuzj100: You sound like the lubrication expert: Why do some greases separate and others don't?

Not an expert but I am interested in lubrication to a point well beyond the practical.

The oil separates from the thickener in all greases to some degree because the oil is the lubricating component and the thickener is just a carrier.

The process is reversible when the thickeners reabsorb the released grease. Different thickeners are able to do this to different levels. Common lithium complex thickeners are rated good in this characteristic but the loss of the lubricating oils over time is why frequent greasing is needed in a semi-open system like the slide yoke. Over time the oil evaporates or seeps out and leaves behind the thickener. Purging the old out with fresh grease is the only solution.

Inside a sealed bearing the oil will get "stirred" back into the thickeners and have a much longer life.

I think that the amount of oil that leaks from a grease gun while in storage is probably not a big deal although it can make a big mess since a small amount of oil goes a long way. I take it as a sign that my grease is looking for work and it's time to get under the truck again!

I find that the greases intended for high speed wheel bearing apps (Amsoil Synth, Racing 2000, Mobil 1) tend to "bleed" most and the HD EP greases less. And that makes sense given their intended uses. A #1 will bleed more than a #2 because it has a higher oil to carrier ratio.

Some people suggest that releasing the pressure in the gun during storage helps with the "bleeding" issue.

I want a couple of these for the garage.

Grease Gun Caddy

Photo from Gemplers

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Love the storage option! I also like this option, if you are going to store several extra cartridges.

Grease/Caulk Storage Box, Grease Guns & Supplies - GEMPLER'S

 

[SupraTuRD]

NMuzj100,

Thanks for the good info. Btw, I'm going to have to get one of those grease gun holders... that's the exact same Lincoln grease gun that I have too... love it!

 

[MH_Stevens]

I have the "thunk" after over greasing. I removed the zerk, drove, but no grease came out. What should I do before I remove the DS for rebuild?

 

[2001LC]

1) Raise the rear dropping axle, pump in some number #1 grease, repeat over time. This may help loosen it up, as might warmer weather. Don't add to much grease each time, as it may build excessive pressure.
2) Some shops drill a very small hole in the cover plate at very end.
3) If pulling apart make sure to mark all position first, then clean & repack with #1 grease is best.

 

[MH_Stevens]

As an update I must declare I did not over grease. The problem seems now cured and looks like the front drive shaft was ceased from under greasing. I pumped grease into both drive shafts to expand them and now all sees OK. Maybe paranoia about over greasing is leading to under greasing. Thanks for all your input.

 

[charleston]

I notices the thunk recently which brought me to this thread. Today I greased the driveshaft. The front shaft expanded and grease came out between the slip joint. I then proceeded to the rear. After a few pumps I noticed the shaft move a little, then pumping more I expected to see grease come out like the front, nothing came so I kept pumping. I then noticed the shaft building up pressure and the t case making some noise with each pump. I stopped pumping and took it for a drive around the neighborhood.. I now had really bad gear whine from the rear end.. bad vibration and it was hard to shift back to park.. obviously too much grease in the rear slip yoke. I took off the zerk and the grease spewed out with explosive force..I hope I didnt do any permanent damage to the tc or rear diff.

 

[2001LC]

Did issues go away once pressure relieved?

 

[charleston]

Did issues go away once pressure relieved?

Yes, the noise is gone, I just hope no permanent damage was done. I just drove it again and to be sure I pulled the zerk a second time, another spurt of grease came out.. I drove it around the neighborhood a second time with the zerk off, goving over curbs and flexing things.. More grease came out.. I think I should probably pull the shaft and pull it apart, there must be a bunch of old grease built up causing it to clog. The front did not have this issue, I pulled the zerk on that one and no grease came out, but it did come out of the shaft when I pumped it in.

 

[2001LC]

You're probable ok.

Cleaning out can't hurt. Use a center punch to mark spider joints, yokes, propeller shafts, deferential, transmission etc. so you can put back exactly in the same alignment.

I started with #1 moly, then #2 moly now I just use #2 non moly chassis grease.

My rear seal never has let grease pass. The rear yoke plug (plate) is still loose and grease passes there each greasing. Just as if I used the dealer trick of drilling a small hole in rear of yoke plug. I've always been concerned grease is only coming out around yoke plug and not properly recycled in yoke. But I've not had any issue in 67k miles.

 

[sean2202]

I use Woody's track marker to mark splines shafts torque bolts etc. Also works great for checking peoples work ie alignments. Over greased my old 4runner rear shaft putting pressure on trans case rubber mount. I could see it stretch also changing shift points not good. Once relieved back to normal

 

[bodywhomper]

I have a 99 tlc. Had it less than a year. I want to grease the driveshafts. This is a new task to me and I'm confused what grease to buy and use. I live in the Sierra foothills on a dirt road. We drive a fair bit on dirt roads just getting around and doing our thing. Does that matter?

It looks like peeps recommend
Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #1 or #2. Why choose one over the other? Is the temperature related to temp at application time or ambient temp during vehicle use? Are there other good choices?
Tia
Cheers