To Slee or not to Slee (SS Brake Lines)

[TequilaMechanic]

Looking for opinions on the Slee SS Brake Line kit. I have a 2005 and I’m planning on rebuilding by brake caliper pistons. Obviously some synergy there with just gutting the existing brake lines and resetting that clock for years to come. I’m considering upgrading to Slee’s kit.

Who has put in Slee’s kit and what did you think? Any other jobs I should also complete while I’m in there?

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

I’ve run PowerStops SS lines for quite a while, very happy, no issues, good quality. Braking feels better and added peace of mind that something weird isn’t going to happen and pinch one. Going to assume Slees are a significant premium over PowerStop haha.

 

[Bisho]

I replaced with OEM - they lasted 23 years/300k miles and were till performing well. I expected the originals to be hard, but they were still very flexible. I've heard the stainless can have issues. We don't cook our fluid like a race car, even in mountain driving, giving a need for sleeves to keep the rubber from expanding. @OwnerCS

 

[excessive]

i dont have an opinion, but i just came in here to say i loved the thread title

 

[2001LC]

SS braid lines have zero flex. So will give you rock hard braking feel in pedal. If fluid good, seals in master in top condition, accumulator still has/holds great pressure and calipers re-sealed. One toe on pedal will engage brakes hard. Install some DBA rotors and pads. It will blow-your-mind how hard pedal feels and how much stopping power. Braking will take some getting use to, especial if on ice.

New OEM flex a little, fit perfect and lock-in all as designed by Toyota.

I've had issues with Power Stop. It was years ago. But IIRC, it had to do flare. If a line (flare nut) ever removed for any service, count on replacing that line. The Slee have a better flare IMHO. So I prefer Slee' SS. But neither have the proper lock pin at/to banjo. Or proper hold on knuckles.

There was a set in the market, built with locks and clocked just like OEM. But I had trouble twice with seller. He's listed out of Australia in ebay. But his brake lines, were shipping from China. Than move to Southeast Asia. First set I purchased, one line clocked wrong. Second set one line totally wrong. In both cases he'd ask for pictures, which I sent. In both cases he'd then ask for more pictures, which I's send. In both cases after review pictures statements, he promised to sent a replacement. He'd not send! I'd repeatedly ask for the replacements he promised. He's then asking for me to return first, and on my dime. I did return, and still he'd never sent any replacement. He's either a drunk, on drugs or just an a******!

I'd go with either Slee, if extra length needed for drop down. I just use OEM. Or combination longer drop down (have made) and OEM at caliper. In most cases, the long drop down is not needed. Test is to fully drop rear with use of a jack, see is some slack remains.

Tip: No matter which pads used in fronts. Install the shim kits. The caliper seals curl/roll ever so slightly while braking. As brakes release, the seal rolls back, pulling piston back. The shims clip into pistons and lock them to pads. This pulls pads off disk, reducing heat & increasing pad life.

Note: We've two different size front brake calipers in the 100 series. 98-02 has smaller pistons than 03-07. Order seal kits & shims according.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

SS braid lines have zero flex. So will give you rock hard braking feel in pedal. If fluid good, seals in master in top condition, accumulator still has/holds great pressure and calipers re-sealed. One toe on pedal will engage brakes hard. Install some DBA rotors and pads. It will blow-your-mind how hard pedal feels and how much stopping power. Braking will take some getting use to, especial if on ice.

New OEM flex a little, fit perfect and lock-in all as designed by Toyota.

I've had issues with Power Stop. It was years ago. But IIRC, it had to do flare. If a line (flare nut) ever removed for any service, count on replacing that line. The Slee have a better flare IMHO. So I prefer Slee' SS. But neither have the proper lock pin at/to banjo. Or proper hold on knuckles.

There was a set in the market, built with locks and clocked just like OEM. But I had trouble twice with seller. He's listed out of Australia in ebay. But his brake lines, were shipping from China. Than move to Southeast Asia. First set I purchased, one line clocked wrong. Second set one line totally wrong. In both cases he'd ask for pictures, which I sent. In both cases he'd then ask for more pictures, which I's send. In both cases after review pictures statements, he promised to sent a replacement. He'd not send! I'd repeatedly ask for the replacements he promised. He's then asking for me to return first, and on my dime. I did return, and still he'd never sent any replacement. He's either a drunk, on drugs or just an a******!

I'd go with either Slee, if extra length needed for drop down. I just use OEM. Or combination longer drop down (have made) and OEM at caliper. In most cases, the long drop down is not needed. Test is to fully drop rear with use of a jack, see is some slack remains.

Tip: No matter which pads used in fronts. Install the shim kits. The caliper seals curl/roll ever so slightly while braking. As brakes release, the seal rolls back, pulling piston back. The shims clip into pistons and lock them to pads. This pulls pads off disk, reducing heat & increasing pad life.

Note: We've two different size front brake calipers in the 100 series. 98-02 has smaller pistons than 03-07. Order seal kits & shims according.

I must be missing something because I ordered the right PowerStop part number for my 100, seamless fit. Same with my 200.

 

[2001LC]

I must be missing something because I ordered the right PowerStop part number for my 100, seamless fit. Same with my 200.

They may have or corrected or you may not have had to R&R since.

I went back and looked at what issue was. It had to do with coating on tip and designed with floating female head. Two issues. Great care most be taken, to get angle due to float. Second the coated tip, coating is removed during install. Re using not can result in a weeper. Additionally, a small amount of the coating ends up inside line (fluid).

I did like Stop Tech knuckles securing point better. As it's has metal bracket to bolt on knuckle, so can be torqued to spec. The Slee's can not be torque to spec, as it breaks the plastic.

Neither fix line on knuckle. Brake lines slides thought either knuckle bracket. In addition neither have lock pins as noted above. So the brake line with every movement of suspension. Is putting pressure on and off the banjo bolt. This was brought to my attention first by Christo Slee, before I purchased from him. But to date, I've not heard of any, loosening the banjo bolt. But take note. Toyota designed so the banjo bolt, so they never gets any external pressure from movement of suspension.

Look close at the stop-tech male flare, after removal. It's coating was brandished off during install. So I consider, a one time use part. Addition note the angle was not dead on. That's due to floating female flare nut aspect. The floating flare nut spin on line, which adds in aligning to frame bracket lock cuts. But also result in not always seating dead on with hard line flare.

Some of this coating was found in brake line.

Unlike the OEM flex line. Neither Slee nor StopTech, lock line in knuckle bracket. Unlike OEM, Line sides through as suspension moves.

Slee

 

[MechE30]

I replaced my original soft lines with Slee’s stainless lines about six months ago. At the same time I rebuilt each caliper (all new seals), flushed fluid, and adjusted my brake pedal. All combined I’m very happy with the performance. Individually I cannot say performance wise. I will say the Slee lines themselves were great to install, seemed high quality, and had good instructions. I recommend them!

 

[2001LC]

Flare spins on line

Flare is fixed

Neither StopTech or Slee lock line on knuckle or have pin locking banjo to caliper.

Note OEM all three attachment points clocked. Knuckle bracket clocked and lock on line. Banjo has a pin to lock into caliper.

 

[2001LC]

I've set up many different configuration. More OEM, than all others combined. I'm happiest with all OEM fitment, feel and safety.

Kick that up a notch, with in greater stopping power and over long braking. DBA rotors & pads.

If harder pedal feel with faster and increase pressure on pads wanted. All SS steel flex lines. Which I've tried 3 different manufactures. I go with Slee today, if not going OEM.

 

[Patassa]

Looking for opinions on the Slee SS Brake Line kit. I have a 2005 and I’m planning on rebuilding by brake caliper pistons. Obviously some synergy there with just gutting the existing brake lines and resetting that clock for years to come. I’m considering upgrading to Slee’s kit.

Who has put in Slee’s kit and what did you think? Any other jobs I should also complete while I’m in there?

I put it in before a 4500 mile roadtrip and replaced all the OEM rubber that was 20+ years old. Mainly did it for peace of mind, in that respect it was worth every penny. I didn't experience any noticeable difference in brake feel or anything.