To roll bar or not?

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Sep 2, 2008
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Guys,

Trying to finish a 2-year "refresh" of a 1970 model 40. I have a rollbar that I am trying to decide whether I should put back in or not. My issue it this: To make the rear seats fit I need to have brackets welded to the rollbar and then have the rollbar powdercoated. I don't have a welder, don't know how to, so would have to pay someone to do it. Then pay to have it powdercoated.

My 2nd option is to leave the rollbar out and just install the rear seats.

So, my question is this. Spend the money to have brackets welded and powdercoat rollbar, or just don't spend any money and leave the rollbar out?

Again, I do not have the tools to do this myself so I'd have to pay someone to do it.

Thanks,
Jonny
 
Before reinventing the horse, look carefully at the layout.

I have a roll cage in my FJ40, using the original long back seats.

The front of the seats do attach to a bracket welded to the rollbar.

The rear of the seats bolt directly to the tub wall using an extended bolt with a tube sleeve spacer.

However, the front of the seats would not need to be bolted to the roll bar if the bracket were not there. They could be spaced out like the rear seats. The only reason the welded bracket was used was because it actually blocks an extended bolt from reaching the tub wall.

I'd suggest placing the roll bar, but not mounting it until AFTER the seats have been test fitted to the tub, to make sure the front bolt misses the upright tube.
 
I would say your stupid and you'll be kickin yourself down the road if you did not put the rol cage in when you were talking about doing it. Do it once and do it right
 
Short wheel base vehicle without a roll bar? OEM rollbars are not much be definatly better than nothing in a rollover. I say just for the safety reasons I would put it back in. If it was really me though I would upgrade to a metal tec rollbar.
 
It's quite simple to use the OEM jump seats with a MetalTech Jackson cage. Just cut some holes in the rear plate of the cage to let the feet of the seats bolt to the original bolt holes.

The OEM roll bar is better than nothing, but not very. If I were dead set on the OEM look I'd get just the MT roll bar, but really I'd get a Jackson cage (in fact, we did).

I'm sure I have posted pics of this setup within the past month or two....

Ask pappy if a roll cage is a good idea... I don't know if I can really live without one (grisly pun intended).

Dan
 
Go with the roll bar. I have a 67 FJ40 with the long jump seats and I'm going to get a OEM roll bar for mine. The OEM is fine for me. My rig will see an occasional dirt road or trail but mostly just for cruising around town. If you are going to do some serious wheeling with it I agree with the other guys and upgrade it to a stronger one.
 
one way or the other, you want a roll bar in a '40.

I have seen a few that rolled at road speeds. you WANT a roll bar.

OEM is pretty marginal. but better than nothing. Aftermarket is much better.


Mark...
 
It's quite simple to use the OEM jump seats with a MetalTech Jackson cage. Just cut some holes in the rear plate of the cage to let the feet of the seats bolt to the original bolt holes.

The OEM roll bar is better than nothing, but not very. If I were dead set on the OEM look I'd get just the MT roll bar, but really I'd get a Jackson cage (in fact, we did).

I'm sure I have posted pics of this setup within the past month or two....

Ask pappy if a roll cage is a good idea... I don't know if I can really live without one (grisly pun intended).

Dan

Tell me he didn't...:frown:


Cage especially if there is a family involved.
 
After being in a rollover in a modern unibody SUV and seeing the kind of damage that can happen, there's no way on earth I would go with out a roll cage. Those paper thin sheetmetal sides on a 40 would not hold up to any rollover. If you're putting the seats back in there, must be because you want to carry people back there, and if that's the case count me out...
 
You need a roll bar, if you happen to roll it without it you and you passengers probably will not be able to wish you had. No matter how safe you drive you still never know when someone else will pull out in front of even hit you possibly flipping you on the side if not over.
 
With a roll bar...... Imagine without....Enough said:hhmm:
30481_127861813911390_126741507356754_195768_2012560_n.webp
 
With a roll bar...... Imagine without....Enough said:hhmm:

Did this truck have a bar at the windshield frame as well or just over head?

Pete
 
Just an OEM roll bar I believe hence the crushed top forward. I don't do a lot of off road as I would would like but even here in the Philippines I believe a roll bar is needed in just daily driving because people here do not stop and look at intersections at all. Just blaze right through hoping the other guy will stop. Damnedest thing I have ever seen except Vietnam.
 
Hi All:

Oh! thought you had just gone wheeling and had a rough time! ;)

Seriously, gotta vote for a least the stock "roll bar" though a full "roll cage" is definitely better!!

Regards,

Alan



Just an OEM roll bar I believe hence the crushed top forward. I don't do a lot of off road as I would would like but even here in the Philippines I believe a roll bar is needed in just daily driving because people here do not stop and look at intersections at all. Just blaze right through hoping the other guy will stop. Damnedest thing I have ever seen except Vietnam.
 
Bar or cage... If it's going to cost a bunch, consider taking the plunge and getting a cage.
 
My 2 cents you should go with a good roll bar at minimum...

I lost a wheel of an expedition going over a pass 10 years ago.. Since then any car I work on I throw one in..

My HJ one is on the way, I can't weld either and Powder coating does cost $$$ however here is a pic of my 78 TA, I drop the cars value about $3k adding this however I am a bad driver so it is worth the $500 you will spend just take ya time and look around..


TransAmFloorAfter3.jpg
 
Tell me he didn't...:frown:

See the CM threads, I know it's in the HDC section on CM11. But, after seeing him without a scratch on his body, I love that MT cage!

Just because we're discussing it.... This is the MetalTech Jackson Cage that I talked about earlier. To make the jump seats fit the original holes, I cut some holes in the base plate for the "feet" of the jumpseats.
cage 2.webp

Here they are installed in the truck...
cage 1.webp

I wouldn't wheel with people in the jumpseats with just a Jackson cage, but we didn't build this to be a hardcore rig anyhow... I also put frame ties in under the A and B hoops, so I really wasn't concerned with cutting holes in the base plates for the feet, but I wouldn't mind either way.

Dan
cage 1.webp
cage 2.webp
 
Having witnessed it first hand, two things:

1. Install a cage. It kept the damage on a beautiful 40 to some fender and quarter panel work. The rig drove out (with an intact windshield :eek:).

2. Go metal tech. I found Mark that night so I could shake his hand. I will be installing long seats into the 63, and it will get a Jackson cage.


They are cheap insurance. A full cage doesn't cost that much. Use it once, and it pays for itself.
 
I spoke with Mark about the long jumps. Welding a tab is the best way. I have also found that switching the seats side to side (moving the bar up front). Makes it easier to fit the factory bar, and easier to access the stuff in the back.
 

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