TN 62 gets a 5 speed

[cruisermatt]

Because the later L brackets were riveted to the frame I was asking what people are using to replace them. When I picked up a late FJ60 crossmember I was not prepared to drill rivets off the frame. Unlike previous years the late 60 series uses L brackets on the inside and outside of the frame making a total of four brackets. Unless I'm mistaken the FJ62 L brackets are further back. Crossmember supports the adapter between the transmission and transfer case.

The H55F started 10/82 in some markets. I wasn't sure if the body change 11/84 inost markets when the 3F bellhousing started would cause a clearance problem when mixed.

About the around 3/4" change between bellhousingss where was that measured? My only 60 series is an FJ62. What I have checked out is the two FJ60 four transmission shift canes in a FJ40. The early clears the driver's seat and later is right up against the seat. If 3/4" is how much the shift tower rotors it will be a lot more at the end of the shift cane.

Asked about the skid plate because I searched and the part number for our 4/85-7/87 skid plate shows a different part number that other markets withA five speed.

I suffer from OCD. Been collecting parts slowly for the H55F conversion into my FJ62. I seen a picture of one converted that has a transmission boot from model before 4/85. Most wouldn't notice it. To me it was if was painted bright orange. Most people would be happy to have one of these to install a H55F into a 40 series.

I'm still working on getting parts that includes this here from Australia.

You have been collecting a bunch of parts but I have actually done a bunch of these conversions, several of them for paying customers. Seriously, either combo works just fine as long as the bellhousing and crossmember match.
There is no issue with shifters in a 60.

 

[Living in the Past]

Not arguing if it will fit with a 2F bellhousing. Only asked that in my first post. Markets that got a H55F it started 10/82, two model years earlier than the 11/84 3F bellhousing. Just wasn't sure the last hump changed that coincided with the 3F wasn't sure if there would be an issue tubs transmission angled sine Toyota changed everything together. Have no doubt the shifters will work but more of will it be as comfortable position as the factory setup. The. H55F 10/82-11/84 is definitely angled different than later shifters. Those also came in a solid and a two piece version. Have a friend in Australia who has the early solid H55F shifter he plans to use with a 60 series H55F and V8 in his HJ45.

I looked at my late 60 series skid plate and my FJ62 frame. Looks like it has the extension piece added to protect the CAT. Will measure the length front to back and compare it to a 40 series five speed skid plate to see if it protects the transfer case. Looks like there are threaded holes in the bottom of the FJ62 frame to bolt it on. FJ62 having a CAT on the inside of the frame and outside the skid plate may need to be trimmed where the exhaust out of the back of outside CAT crosses back under the frame.

I did notice the L brackets for the crossmember are welded not riveted. Been a while since l picked up the late crossmember. It may have been welded. Just remember I didn't have what was needed to remove them. I was a hundred miles from home and it was being hauled off for scrap later that day.

So does anyone know what are being used for L brackets on the FJ62 when the correct late model transmission crossmember and 3F bellhousing are being used?

 

[cruisermatt]

Yes. They are originally welded tabs. Torfab makes a weld-on bracket kit to use the 85-87 crossmember.

 

[NOSAJ]

Looks like I missed quite a discussion! Any way I ended up getting an early 3 piece cross member and the correct mount…hopefully this will work?! Let me know if anyone sees anything not right. I’m assuming jack tranny up until the top L brackets are flush with the top of the frame? See picture.

 

[NOSAJ]

 

[NOSAJ]

 

[cruisermatt]

Make sure you are putting your floor jack under the crossmember so you are compressing the transmission mount. You want the transfer case output flanges to be plumb (90*) to the frame rails with the rubber mount compressed.

If you don't want to drill 8 holes thru the frame rails I have welded those brackets in and it's fine, a bit tricky to get the center piece out but doable

 

[NOSAJ]

Thanks! @cruisermatt ! I think I’m going to weld them in. Looks like drilling 8 holes would be terrible unless drilled from outside the frame?

 

[cruisermatt]

Thanks! @cruisermatt ! I think I’m going to weld them in. Looks like drilling 8 holes would be terrible unless drilled from outside the frame?

Yeah, I’ve done it, it sucks. Burn them in.

 

[Living in the Past]

Thanks! @cruisermatt ! I think I’m going to weld them in. Looks like drilling 8 holes would be terrible unless drilled from outside the frame?

With the transmission and transfer case installed can see it being very difficult. While more work using the floor jack to get it lined up. Paint the brackets with a light color to mark the eight holes. Remove the transmission and transfer case. Then drill the holes. That still leaves how to install the eight nuts. Even welding like the idea aligning the brackets by painting the eight holes. Support the transmission and remove the crossmember. Clamp the bracket to the frame and then weld. Once tacked in place remove the clamp and finish the welds.

 

[NOSAJ]

Oh man I was really hoping to weld it up with tranny in there, but I can definitely see how with it out would allow for more room. I’ve already started moving lines etc on the frame rail out of the way.

 

[NOSAJ]

Got the brackets burned in today. It wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be. So glad I listened to Matt and didn’t drill those 8 holes. Happy this this is off the jack and up on its own. Got all the lines bolted back on the frame. Going to tackle the drive shafts next. Found out I was sent the wrong clutch hose so going to order that today.

 

[NOSAJ]

Went to install the clutch lines and hose bottomed out with this gap and looked up the part number and sure enough wrong one.

 

[NOSAJ]

Well this is getting old. Looks like I was sent a mix of early and late FJ60 parts. So far I have wrong tranny mount, cross member, clutch hose and now driveshafts I was sent don’t fit. Was I supposed to change flanges on the transfer case to fj60? Or is something else going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[NOSAJ]

Since the driveshafts wouldn’t work I started working on the pedal bucket. Saw how @Paul DiNapoli did his and drilled the clutch portion out.

 

[cruisermatt]

Swapping your slip yokes from the 62 driveshafts would be the fast fix.

There are two styles of the clutch slave bodies and hoses. Inverted flare seal ( later non adjustable pushrod) and copper washer seal (earlier adjustable pushrod).
However I have seen some inconsistencies with the aftermarket slaves being set up for the correct hoses.

If it’s bottoming out it is probably the matching inverted flare style, i prefer these anyways

 

[NOSAJ]

Thanks @cruisermatt So on the driveshafts change over the slip yokes. Got it. What about the differential end? Do I need to switch out the flanges on the differential end and get new u joints while I’m in there?

 

[NOSAJ]

Just seeing if anyone knows about these driveshafts? Thinking about getting new u joints and swapping fj 62 drive flanges onto these driveshafts unless I’m missing something? Hopefully 60 and 62 u joints are same?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Just seeing if anyone knows about these driveshafts? Thinking about getting new u joints and swapping fj 62 drive flanges onto these driveshafts unless I’m missing something? Hopefully 60 and 62 u joints are same?

Yes, the FJ60 and FJ62 dual joint (one per side) driveshafts are the same joint:

U-Joint - Fits 1/74-5/84 4x/55 Series F&R | 8/80-5/84 6x Series Front (1) & Rear (2) | 5/84-01/90 6x/7x Series F&R | 1/90-1/98 7x/8x Series Rear

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

My suggestion, use complete driveshafts from the 85+ application if you have them and you don't have other drivetrain/suspension modifications that warrant custom length shafts. That way you can more easily find replacement parts/shafts in the future. T-Case output flanges on the t-case itself are much easier to swap than a flange yoke on a used drive shaft. Now, if your donor shafts need new u-joints, that would be a more compelling case. I also prefer the double-cardan front shaft, so that requires running the earlier front t-case output flange.

Transfer Case Front Output Flange - Fits 8/1980 - 11/1984 FJ40/60 with Split T-Case Only (TCF60010SC)

Toyota Land Cruiser Transfer Case Output Flange

cruiserteq.com

 

[NOSAJ]

Thanks for the info Kurt @cruiseroutfit ! Makes sense on the t case end. Im pretty sure I was sold the 85+ shafts bI’m assuming your saying switch the differential flange too? Thanks! Sorry for all the questions guys! Hopefully getting this rig rolling soon!