Officially no, Toyota does not recommend use of any chains (standard link or low profile cable) on the front. That's in the owners manual. You may or may not have luck if you try. I wouldn't risk it unless I was going slow and straight.
Tire Chains on a 200 Series?
- Thread starter W.F. McCall
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
Since you have an example with stock wheel/tire size you’d be in the best position to check. Crawl under there and see how much room is between the tire and upper knuckle. That is where I remember being too tight with my stock 18s.
You’ll need a good 5/8-3/4” or more, as on top of the cable thickness itself you need to account for movement of the tire and chain slack while driving. The exact number is something a judgement call. If a tire rubs the knuckle a little it’s not a big deal.. cables making contact could end very badly.
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bloc
SILVER Star
Forgot I took pictures of 285/65r18 per request in the past. These are KO2s which run small in most sizes. An LX has more room to the sway bar on account of no KDSS but will still have issues with the UCA and rear of the fender well. Even a /60r18 wouldn’t give enough room.
forum.ih8mud.com
LT285/65R18 KO2's and Chains?
Very interesting discussion about chain types and the California vehicle code, but maybe better suited to a different thread. Can we please stay on topic? Thanks.
forum.ih8mud.com
There was over an inch of clearance between the tire and the UCA (1st picture with the yellow tape). In the second picture, there was only about 5/8” of clearance between the sidewall of the tire and the arm (KDSS?). Too close that I don’t think the S-type chain would clear this, but I’m going to see if I could add a 1/2 spacer to the wheels add clearance. Does anyone have info on adding 1/2 spaced without changing the studs and just use the factory lug nuts?
bloc
SILVER Star
Every chain I’ve ever seen will hit that UCA as you get up to the speed limit of the chains, probably even with 1/2” spacers.
Thinking back, my quote of room should be just the lateral clearance at the sidewall. Anything outboard of the tread will have to deal with the centrifugal force of the chain/cable being slung outward. And you DO NOT want that cable hitting that suspension stuff, breaking, and wrapping up in there.
Have you tried driving your rig in snow with snow tires? Or chains on the front? I seriously doubt chains will be needed on all 4 unless we are talking about conditions way outside what normal people deal with.
Yup, that's Big Bear for you. Though more an attestment to the poorly equipped and poor judgement of warm weather SoCal drivers than anything. As most cars are equipped with summer or all-season tires that are not appropriate for this kind of weather. I was one of them 20 years ago, before I decided I needed the right tools if I was going to make winter sports a regular hobby. Chains get old fast.
I built my rig to play in this region, without chains. With the right consideration to AT tires, the 200-series is a beast and way beyond what's showcased here.
@NCMTNS - you seemed to be the only one here that had run the low profile cable/chains on your 200. Could you elaborate on your setup and experience?
Absolutely. My tires are Toyo Open Country AT3 and size is 285/70/17. They are mounted on Icon Rebound rims that have a 25mm offset. I have a stock suspension. My setup is as follows:
- Rear tires - Peerless Chain Part # 0232805. They can be a little snug to get on but not that difficult.
- Front tires - Security Chain Company SZ462 Super Z8 8mm Commercial and Light Truck Tire Traction Chain. These are the cable style. At full lock there is slight touching/rubbing at mud flaps.
I'll try and get some pictures of setup this winter should I need to use them. You can find these on both the Amazon website or use the Tire Chain Finder on Peerless website.
Hope this helps.
Is it worth the trouble to run dedicated snow tires in SoCal? It doesn’t snow here and even in the mountains we only get a few storms per season.
I think that would be a hard case to make for most. Which is why so many use chains for their summer/all-season shod cars for the few snow trips a year. I love the mountains and try to get up there as much as I can.
It was the 11hr, 300-mile trip during harsh winter weather in Tahoe, that I decided never to lean on chains again. After installing them something like 6 times that trip, because of changing weather and varying road conditions in the foothills, between dry roads, ice, heavy snow...messing with chains in single digits into midnight. Never again leaning on chains as the solution.
My compromise has been to run AT tires that have solid cold weather performance. Real all-terrains, that can solidly run in most every use case competently. These weren't always available and even some previous ATs I've had were like what's in that video. Many excelled in one area or another, with large compromises to things like on-road, rain, snow, noise, comfort, etc. It's only in the last 5 yrs that we've truly got well rounded tires that excel everywhere.
From my research, not unless you live on the mountain. I’m pretty sure the 2 hour drive up the mountain when it’s 60+ degrees in the flatlands would trash those tires. I can’t imagine what would happen to those tires on a drive from OC to Mammoth.
Just want to throw out there that Peerless also has their Super Z6 cables that have "...been developed to operate with only 6.3mm of clearance required at speeds of no greater than 30mph." That's 1/4 inch for those that dare. Notwithstanding all the appropriate words of caution here, and Toyota's own manual recommending otherwise, I picked up two sets for all four wheels just in case, but since I run dedicated snow tires for ski season I don't expect to need them - possibly ever. Even so, I'm not aware of anything that actually requires even less clearance than these short of some goofy fabric sock or something. I believe the Z8 are 8mm clearance for example.
bloc
SILVER Star
I have zero experience with winter tires but my friends in SW CO run them from november to march and spend plenty of time on moderate temp dry roads without issue. And usually get 2-3 years out of them too, if I remember correctly.
Not that this is a good solution for SoCal drivers. But as someone from texas I remember being shocked by what they will tolerate.
Hopefully people with direct experience chime in.
"Worth the trouble" is the right way to think about this for those without experience living with purpose built winter/snow tires. Low temperatures are good. High temps will accelerate wear rates on these tires...period. Some brands/compounds are more affected than others. Studded vs. studless is a big consideration too for comfort and grip. The Cascade Mountains on the west coast is great studless tire territory in my opinion (at least we can get away with them here) for the exact reason you mention - varying conditions. Worth the trouble? I won't even guess what anyone else finds worthwhile.
For me, I judge it worthwhile to change tires twice a year in the comfort of my garage (along with tire rotations) rather than lay in mud and snow on the side of a road dealing with chains on occasion. I take comfort in, and know from experience that, it is much safer to have my family members operating cars/trucks with tires optimized for grip in those conditions - it's real. I have friends that feel exactly the same, and quite the opposite. I would expect that SoCal and Big Bear / Tahoe is an even wider temperature use case than here in Oregon. If I saw frequent and common 70F in winter I would personally rethink it.Around minute 15 they put chains on…
gaijin
GOLD Star
Just adding fuel to the
Chains on front vs chains on back vs chains on all four vs LC never need chains Vs chains will damage your undercarriage debate
Chains on front vs chains on back vs chains on all four vs LC never need chains Vs chains will damage your undercarriage debate
Well done X Ovld. Good examples of the type of conditions some of us get into and some may never see. Its the planning for the oh crud moments that makes for a good story when you get back.Since I cannot run HD chains on the front of my LC because of my snow tire size (OEM Tundra size), I have to be ready to use some kind of directional correction actuator, (a winch or something like it) to get me out of that rut and back into the rut I started in.
Please pre install your cables/chains to ops ck the fit and turn clearance and use 2 tensioners per tire if possible depending on the type of system you chose.
When I change out my A/T's for snow tires for the winter I will install my chains on one of the tires before it gets mounted and ck the condition of bungee retainers and make sure I have the tools needed to secure them.
And at about 16:30 the chains tear up the front fender...
