Tire Chains on a 200 Series? (1 Viewer)

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I like chains. Strong , long, long lasting.
I don’t feel comfortable with cables or other.

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I imagine the follow type of modern chain would work for front and back.

RUPSE Tire Chains Car Vehicle Anti-Slip Snow Chain Security Adjustable Emergency Easy to Install 20pcs

I did live in CO for a couple of years and the thing I remember about chains was a 5 to 10 mile per hour max speed.
However as I live in Austin TX I doubt I will need any.
 
I used to have 2 sets of Z-bar "zero clearance" chains for my 3rd gen 4Runner when I lived on a (little) mountain in Virginia. They held up nicely and did extremely well when the switchbacks were covered in ice and AT tires failed. I can't really compare to full-on chains though.

Sadly if I wanted to run chains on my LC I'd need a second set of smaller tires as 34s already rub the KDSS and sway bar at full lock slightly. Fortunately (or unfortunately for vehicle life) Illinois dumps 6" of salt on the roads for every 1" of snow.
 
I have 2 sets:

  1. This set is for the 18" stock rims/tires. Purchased 4 Thule XG12 (which I believe is now Konig). Actually bought these when I had my 07 LC. Used them a few times and work very well. Fairly easy to put on. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LF7H58/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. This set is for the 20" AM rims I purchased. Consist of Security Chain Company SZ451 Super Z6 Cable Tire Chain for the front tires (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HZBRSC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and Peerless 0232805 Auto-Trac Light Truck/SUV Tire Traction Chain (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091RCM5Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the rear tires. Did this as the Z6 cables fit better due to the larger tires I have on the front but still wanted chains on the rear.
Due to the steep road I travel on in mountains to get to house many switchbacks don't get sun in the winter. These easily freeze and are very slick. It's not the amount of snow but the slickness that concerned me. The chains mentioned work great but was actually surprised on how well the Z6 cable chains worked. They bit well into the snow/ice.
 
Exact ones I use in Big Bear.
Another older thread bump @ryanCA and @NCMTNS - are y'all running those chains, option 1) Konig XG-12 pro - on the FRONT?

Reason I'm asking - driving out to CO next month will be spending time between Wolf Creek and Purgatory. I have stock 18" rims on my 2008 LC with Michelin Defender LTX m/s in 285 60/18s. I'm attempting to mitigate big snow storm risk and still make it up to the top of the pass from Pagosa Springs. I understand that road is pretty well cared for, but - we could encounter a winter tires or chains required scenario at some point.

I know winter tires are the best bet - I don't want to change them out before the trip, we live in NC. I figure chains or cables could be a safe enough stop-gap but would love to confirm fitment on stock-as-it-gets wheels & tires.
 
Another older thread bump @ryanCA and @NCMTNS - are y'all running those chains, option 1) Konig XG-12 pro - on the FRONT?

Reason I'm asking - driving out to CO next month will be spending time between Wolf Creek and Purgatory. I have stock 18" rims on my 2008 LC with Michelin Defender LTX m/s in 285 60/18s. I'm attempting to mitigate big snow storm risk and still make it up to the top of the pass from Pagosa Springs. I understand that road is pretty well cared for, but - we could encounter a winter tires or chains required scenario at some point.

I know winter tires are the best bet - I don't want to change them out before the trip, we live in NC. I figure chains or cables could be a safe enough stop-gap but would love to confirm fitment on stock-as-it-gets wheels & tires.
For whatever it’s worth traction law here states:

Traction Law​

During winter storms, or when conditions require, CDOT will implement the Traction Law. During a Traction Law, all motorists are required to have EITHER:

  1. 4WD or AWD vehicle and 3/16” tread depth
  2. Tires with a mud and snow designation (M+S icon) and 3/16” tread depth
  3. Winter tires (mountain-snowflake icon) and 3/16” tread depth
  4. Tires with an all-weather rating by the manufacturer and 3/16” tread depth
  5. Chains or an alternative traction device

So as long as you have 3/16th tread or better, you are good to go per CO law. Now for next month, all bets on weather are off, but currently we are having a weak winter, so the chances right now of a big storm (big low off the cost of AK running the show right now) seems pretty low. If there is a big storm and you don’t feel like you are okay with your current tire choice AND the road is still open, get some z-chains, I keep them in my truck for fronts and rears - had them for three years and never put them on other then to test them though - But I’ll tell you that CDOT is very cautious and closes roads fast if they are concerned, so chances are very good that you’ll not get the chance to use your chains if you bring them.

Edit: I fit them on stock size Nokian Hakapallata (spelling can’t be right). Fit before and after my BP-51’s went on.
 
The CDOT rules and regulations are mostly because dumb **** California transplants would cause fiery crashes when they took their RWD BMWs into the mountains or think that mud tires on a lifted 4x4 do an ounce of good in freezing temperatures where they essentially turn to hockey pucks.

Being a long time Colorado and California mountain man, if you plan on seriously driving in the mountains and snow storms in the winter, you should get a dedicated set of snowflake tires on a set of rims to swap out for winter.

Studded tires are pretty cool as well, but they also have to be pretty good winter tires, not just studded terrain tires.

Chains will destroy your vehicle. Something will come loose and next thing you know you have a metal Weedwhacker doing thousands of dollars of damage to your body and your suspension.

I will tell you that after 15 years of living in the California and Colorado mountains I’ve never gone wrong with Blizzaks or Rotiivas.
 
For whatever it’s worth traction law here states:

Traction Law​

During winter storms, or when conditions require, CDOT will implement the Traction Law. During a Traction Law, all motorists are required to have EITHER:

  1. 4WD or AWD vehicle and 3/16” tread depth
  2. Tires with a mud and snow designation (M+S icon) and 3/16” tread depth
  3. Winter tires (mountain-snowflake icon) and 3/16” tread depth
  4. Tires with an all-weather rating by the manufacturer and 3/16” tread depth
  5. Chains or an alternative traction device

So as long as you have 3/16th tread or better, you are good to go per CO law. Now for next month, all bets on weather are off, but currently we are having a weak winter, so the chances right now of a big storm (big low off the cost of AK running the show right now) seems pretty low. If there is a big storm and you don’t feel like you are okay with your current tire choice AND the road is still open, get some z-chains, I keep them in my truck for fronts and rears - had them for three years and never put them on other then to test them though - But I’ll tell you that CDOT is very cautious and closes roads fast if they are concerned, so chances are very good that you’ll not get the chance to use your chains if you bring them.

Edit: I fit them on stock size Nokian Hakapallata (spelling can’t be right). Fit before and after my BP-51’s went on.

The CDOT rules and regulations are mostly because dumb f*** California transplants would cause fiery crashes when they took their RWD BMWs into the mountains or think that mud tires on a lifted 4x4 do an ounce of good in freezing temperatures where they essentially turn to hockey pucks.

Being a long time Colorado and California mountain man, if you plan on seriously driving in the mountains and snow storms in the winter, you should get a dedicated set of snowflake tires on a set of rims to swap out for winter.

Studded tires are pretty cool as well, but they also have to be pretty good winter tires, not just studded terrain tires.

Chains will destroy your vehicle. Something will come loose and next thing you know you have a metal Weedwhacker doing thousands of dollars of damage to your body and your suspension.

I will tell you that after 15 years of living in the California and Colorado mountains I’ve never gone wrong with Blizzaks or Rotiivas.
Fantastic responses guys very much appreciated. Sounds like we're good to go from a CO law perspective and, from my research, fresh Defender LTX M/S are a solid snow choice alone. I'll add a set of Z-cables to the kit just in case, but don't expect to have to use them, if it was dumping THAT bad THAT day we'll probably take a break and hit it the next day anyway.

I don't see investing in dedicated winters living in NC but - when I do move out west (come on retirement!) - absolutely!
 
FWIW, I drive in snow and ice in the PNW mountains pretty often and run KO2s (with the mountain/snowflake) - no chains. I air down a bit ~30 PSI and just slow down.

If conditions are bad enough that you really need chains, you either a) should wait out the weather before moving or b) be driving so slowly that chains aren't all that much benefit over a good AT tire.

That's my .02 anyway.
 
Another older thread bump @ryanCA and @NCMTNS - are y'all running those chains, option 1) Konig XG-12 pro - on the FRONT?

Reason I'm asking - driving out to CO next month will be spending time between Wolf Creek and Purgatory. I have stock 18" rims on my 2008 LC with Michelin Defender LTX m/s in 285 60/18s. I'm attempting to mitigate big snow storm risk and still make it up to the top of the pass from Pagosa Springs. I understand that road is pretty well cared for, but - we could encounter a winter tires or chains required scenario at some point.

I know winter tires are the best bet - I don't want to change them out before the trip, we live in NC. I figure chains or cables could be a safe enough stop-gap but would love to confirm fitment on stock-as-it-gets wheels & tires.
I did. I since changed tire size and now use them on my daughters 2004 LX470 (which has 285/60-18’s) as they will not fit 285/70-17’s I switched to. I have 2 sets and use on all 4 tires. They have been awesome to use, easy to take on and off, and work great on the steep icy downhill sloops up here in NC mtns. Don’t really need for light snow but have multiple switchbacks that don’t get winter sun that ice up and are very slick coming down...

I now use Peerless 0232805 Autotrac on the rear and SZ462 Super Z-8 on the front (if needed, typically just rear). Not as easy to put on and off as the Konig’s but could not find Konig set for 285/70-17 similar to the XG-12.

My opinion well worth having a set (or 2).
 
I did. I since changed tire size and now use them on my daughters 2004 LX470 (which has 285/60-18’s) as they will not fit 285/70-17’s I switched to. I have 2 sets and use on all 4 tires. They have been awesome to use, easy to take on and off, and work great on the steep icy downhill sloops up here in NC mtns. Don’t really need for light snow but have multiple switchbacks that don’t get winter sun that ice up and are very slick coming down...

I now use Peerless 0232805 Autotrac on the rear and SZ462 Super Z-8 on the front (if needed, typically just rear). Not as easy to put on and off as the Konig’s but could not find Konig set for 285/70-17 similar to the XG-12.

My opinion well worth having a set (or 2).
Note that I use them typically only on a dirt road. Once I’m on pavement their off. Last 2 miles of road I travel with them rarely gets plowed.
 
Got back from our CO epic this past Wednesday - we drove Mon/Tues tailing the nasty Winter Storm that did record numbers down south. Took the northern route home through KS, MO, IL, KY, TN down into GA to drop my brother then up to NC.

It snowed A LOT while we were in Pagosa Springs. With good tread depth on the Michelin Defender LTX m/s - I never even contemplated putting on snow chains. We simply did not need them, ever, and this is multiple days driving the Wolf Creek Pass with significant snowfall.

Center diff and good LTX was all we needed. I was already impressed with these beasts but the traction and confidence in snow was even more impressive. I'll be returning the snow chains to AMZN.
 
Does anyone run Chains on the rear and Cables on the front?

Front Cables as in peerless Super z-8.

Rear Chains Peerless QG2237 STD Twist Link

I've only run real chains, never cables. My view of cables has been better than nothing.

The 200 looks like the front will only fit cables for my setup.

So cables and cables; or cables and chains?
 
Does anyone run Chains on the rear and Cables on the front?

Front Cables as in peerless Super z-8.

Rear Chains Peerless QG2237 STD Twist Link

I've only run real chains, never cables. My view of cables has been better than nothing.

The 200 looks like the front will only fit cables for my setup.

So cables and cables; or cables and chains?
Does anyone run Chains on the rear and Cables on the front?

Front Cables as in peerless Super z-8.

Rear Chains Peerless QG2237 STD Twist Link

I've only run real chains, never cables. My view of cables has been better than nothing.

The 200 looks like the front will only fit cables for my setup.

So cables and cables; or cables and chains?
Chains on the rear “only.”
 
I did. I since changed tire size and now use them on my daughters 2004 LX470 (which has 285/60-18’s) as they will not fit 285/70-17’s I switched to. I have 2 sets and use on all 4 tires. They have been awesome to use, easy to take on and off, and work great on the steep icy downhill sloops up here in NC mtns. Don’t really need for light snow but have multiple switchbacks that don’t get winter sun that ice up and are very slick coming down...

I now use Peerless 0232805 Autotrac on the rear and SZ462 Super Z-8 on the front (if needed, typically just rear). Not as easy to put on and off as the Konig’s but could not find Konig set for 285/70-17 similar to the XG-12.

My opinion well worth having a set (or 2).


Do the Super Z-8 cables fit nice and tight on the front?

Do you use 2 adjusters with them per wheel?
 
If you have stock tires you could probably run the Z8 on the front. I ran that one or something similar from SuperZ on my 3rd gen 4Runner on all 4 wheels without interference. They worked well on all 4 wheels when going up and down switchbacks on the (smallish) mountain we were on

If you have 33s or taller I would not put chains on the front.
 

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