Builds Tink's preservation - 1964 FST

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Thanks Matt! Mark confirmed that '64s had this setup. Studs were simply a little short. A new one is on the way tomorrow.
Not all '64's had a PCV setup. My untouched '64 ex Australia has no PCV setup -

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PCV was a US option per the parts books. Yes it was for emissions purposes.
 
Not all '64's had a PCV setup. My untouched '64 ex Australia has no PCV setup -

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the AU spec land cruisers NEVER had any emissions or anti smog features till the 3F Carb was introduced there in 1984


this is what like @middlecalf / paul the wise mentions iit s option ,well in usa the EPA said all land cruiser F engines have a pcv and smog pumps in late 69




i know who is the Teq OARCAL here to add some valued TECH to my Chatty Matty 411 doctrine above ?

@65swb45 .. my uncle mark lives and breaths this stuff for OVER 30+ years now !



see :

i don;t BS , 30 years of turning Teq Gears , and California heavy duty spec. PCV valves too ...........:D






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In the time it took to type all that, you could have sent me an invoice!😛

I explained all the PCVs trivia to Matt by telephone last night.😉
 
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Anyone know if those early screw-in type pcv valves are still available?
 
Anyone know if those early screw-in type pcv valves are still available?
From a ‘65 parts book. 12204-60010 doesn‘t show up or show a replacement. Maybe one of the parts hounds has one. Note the “ANTI-SMOG DEVICE (OPT for USA)”notation.
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Yup, that's it. Here's what I pulled from my `69. (Cleaned and replaced).

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I would try to repair that single barrel insulator. If you can't find the correct pcv, I would try making an adapter to add a grommet so you can run an available version.
 
i would be open to trying this little guy

i UNICORN HUNTERED hard core for over a hour

NOTTA ?


i spotted this on my way out the door , there are many similar features





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I have a few NOS units on the shelf. I just keep cleaning and reusing my old ones. They’re very stout, almost bombproof.
 
They’re basically just a weight in a tube, right? So keep them clean so the weight moves up and down as needed based on pressure and gravity I guess. The only question with a non-stock valve that has the correct threads to fit is does it match the pressure/weight combo of the original design so it isn’t an ineffective valve for releasing overpressure or for being a vacuum leak, however slight? Wonder if any of those design specs are…well spec’d in any literature anywhere. 🤷‍♂️
 
@65swb45 had a '64 gas tank for sale. Solved my problem of not having an acorn stamped gas cap and the seat not fitting over the tank well. Dropped the tank off at Tank ReNu to have any holes fixed and lined. Had them blast the bottom which had some rust. Painted that area with gray POR15, but left the rest of the original paint. The new fuel sender gasket that I had needed the holes elongated to make it fit. Bought some 2 inch fuel hose which is the closest NAPA had in stock. Boiling the hose on the camp stove for 10 minutes expanded and softened it enough to make installation easy.

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A shot of WD-40 helped get the wire clamps on the hose. Just need a 1/2" breather hose and a new 5/16" rubber hose from the tank to the fuel filter and I'm finished with the fuel system.

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Transmission tunnel cover was in pretty good shape. Light cleaning. Application of SEMA rust converter and Fluid Film. New 1/4 inch thick gasket installed. With tunnel cover installed, the tank went in quickly. I did end up taking the top 4 domed washers off. With the new foam and the domed washers together made it difficult to line up the rest of the bolt holes.

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Transmission tunnel cover was in pretty good shape. Light cleaning. Application of SEMA rust converter and Fluid Film. New 1/4 inch gasket installed. With tunnel cover installed, the tank went in quickly.

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What kind of trans tunnel gasket material did you use? Was it a kit or did you DIY it? I need to do this, the easy button is some weatherstripping from Lowes, but I know there are better materials out there.

I'm aware SOR sells a kit. I'm more of a DIY as much as possible. I'm thinking some kind of neoprene with single sided sticky backing would be the ticket.
 
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What kind of trans tunnel gasket material did you use? Was it a kit or did you DIY it? I need to do this, the easy button is some weatherstripping from Lowes, but I know there are better materials out there.
Yeah, I'm curious too. Isn't oem some kind of double sided sticky substance?
 
What kind of trans tunnel gasket material did you use? Was it a kit or did you DIY it? I need to do this, the easy button is some weatherstripping from Lowes, but I know there are better materials out there.

I'm aware SOR sells a kit. I'm more of a DIY as much as possible. I'm thinking some kind of neoprene with single sided sticky backing would be the ticket.
I went with a DIY universal foam gasket from Metro Molded Parts (metrommp.com). Part number LP58-E. It is 1 inch wide x .25 inch EPDM sponge rubber extrusion sold by the foot. I used contact cement from Lowe's to attach it to the cover. Heated a punch to burn the holes into the foam for the bolts. 10 feet was enough with maybe a foot left over.
 
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I have been working on finishing the seats. In preparation for the seat install I needed to finish the fuel system install. Flipped the wire clamps 180* on the fuel filler neck hose because the screws were up against the passenger seat leg. Also found some clamp screws that looked more like the original Toyota clamps than the Datsun I had on there originally. Got the hose installed between the tank and the fuel filter.

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