Timing Belt

[baghloli123]

I have 2000 lx 470 which I bought back in 2007.
It has about 130k miles. We changed the timing belt in 2008 when it had 78K miles. which I thought I did it too early.
Should I change the timing belt when I put a little over 50K miles? I would prefer to wait another year before I change it if its not too risky?

Thanks

 

[Rhetoric]

Your 2000 should be a non-interference engine. So, up to you.

I, however, would have done it years ago. Partly because I have an 07 with an interference 2UZ, and the other part being I don't like risking being stranded even 5 mins from home with my family (or just me) in the vehicle. What a pain.

Recommended change interval should be 9 years or 90k miles. Whichever comes first.

 

[baghloli123]

The reason I didnt change it because I barely drive this vehicle. In the last 3 years, I put about 6k Miles. I agree, my concern is taking out the vehicle with family and it breaks down

 

[Rhetoric]

The reason I didnt change it because I barely drive this vehicle. In the last 3 years, I put about 6k Miles. I agree, my concern is taking out the vehicle with family and it breaks down

Parts still age, regardless of being driven. Some would argue they age faster the less they are driven.

In your case, no major damage should occur if one of the components in the belt path fails but being stranded is the pits.

 

[BullElk]

The reason I didnt change it because I barely drive this vehicle. In the last 3 years, I put about 6k Miles. I agree, my concern is taking out the vehicle with family and it breaks down

I would expect to have more problems than not only driving it 2000 miles a year. Not driving is not your friend.

 

[rexington14]

If you don't change it now I would be keeping a close eye on the coolant level. If your water pump develops a leak and it goes on long enough that can potentially lead to a much bigger problem

 

[donco]

I replaced the original timing belt the 1st time at 106k miles in 2006 with an OE Toyota belt and new OE idlers and water pump. I replaced it again last Fall at 241k miles. The belt had absolutely no signs of needing replacement, no cracks, no obvious wear marks on the teeth, even the original markings were readable on the outside of the belt as if it were new, but the water pump inner seal was leaking and needed replacing. I put maybe 5k miles on it a year, mostly in town but occasional trips in the desert. I feel it's good for another 100k+ miles/10 years or more. I used a Conti-Tech belt this time with the Aisin water pump, idlers, tensioner kit.

 

[Rhetoric]

I replaced the original timing belt the 1st time at 106k miles in 2006 with an OE Toyota belt and new OE idlers and water pump. I replaced it again last Fall at 241k miles. The belt had absolutely no signs of needing replacement, no cracks, no obvious wear marks on the teeth, even the original markings were readable on the outside of the belt as if it were new, but the water pump inner seal was leaking and needed replacing. I put maybe 5k miles on it a year, mostly in town but occasional trips in the desert. I feel it's good for another 100k+ miles/10 years or more. I used a Conti-Tech belt this time with the Aisin water pump, idlers, tensioner kit.

Common misconception that you can determine belt life and age by just eyeballing it.

I think what saves a lot of these engines is the quality of the components. I come from the TDI world of timing belts and those things, even when done perfectly, would grenade even before the change interval was up. Due to a mix of component quality as well as the stress the timing components would put on the belt, etc.

I ask this: Why chance it? If you have YEARS of reliable service from it already, invest in it again to keep it going. Over a 9yr or 90k mile period, even paying out of pocket for the whole job at around $1200 it's cheap.

 

[giobat]

Open timing belt cover and see if there's any cracks on belt.
if you see any crack lager than a hair, it is time to get new one.
Otherwise, I wouldn't concern about it.
FYI, I replaced new timing belt 90K/170K/250K miles on my GX470.

 

[rexington14]

I would expect to have more problems than not only driving it 2000 miles a year. Not driving is not your friend.

Agreed. Maybe consider selling it? These things fetch pretty good money. Especially if you only have 130k.

 

[BullElk]

Agreed. Maybe consider selling it? These things fetch pretty good money. Especially if you only have 130k.

I would sell it yesterday. Get another mall crawling '03-05 with 200-250k miles for about $8000, improve lights, tires and a few other things. Drive it and watch it marinate.

 

[Joe422]

Im changing my Timing belt right now...
On the Toyota/Lexus V8's, I've been doing them every 100k miles/ 10 yrs.. whichever comes first~
On my 3rd T-belt for the 2UZ now.

 

[Patron100LC]

I did mine recently and it isn’t hard, so it makes sense for that additional peace of mind.


On the other hand, we (yes, all of us) are really paranoid about every little squeak that comes out of our vehicles, and immediately begin replacing parts that might be good for another xxxx miles or years. That’s the nature of these forums, every car forum.

Got a neighbor that has 4 Tundra’s 1st gen’s, all w the 2uz. Used as commercial vehicles for a road construction crew.
He probably has 2 million miles accumulated between them.
He didn’t know they have a timing belt, until we spoke..

That was 4 years ago and all trucks are still there today.

It doesn’t make it right, and maybe his mechanic did some work to keep them alive and he didn’t ask what he did, or didn’t care as long as they keep driving..

 

[tahoejoe]

I am currently replacing my original timing belt from 2000 with 125K miles. Thin cracks in the belt. Water pump slightly weeping. Bearings on pulleys a bit rough but nothing alarming.
My point is that its not just the belt that needs the maintenance: WP and other parts need to be changed out.
No, I won't go that long again without replacing timing belt and other critical engine components but I also won't get stressed out once it gets another 90K on the odometer.

 

[Joe422]

Just did my timing belt today. 85k on it and 10 yrs.
Belt looked shiny, on the outside, but tooth side looked perfect.
Water pump pulley had slight squeek, and idler had the ball bearing sound.
Changed everything...cam/crank seals, timing tensioner, water pump, thermostat, fan bracket, drive belt idler and tensioner, etc.

as mentioned above... the Timing belt job itself was very easy ( I have all the right tools... this is my 3rd 2UZ timing belt job I did)
Interestingly the most annoying part for me has to be removing the AC compressor off the Fan bracket... and thats not all that bad either.

Also, the crank sensor looked crooked/offset, which baffled me.. but apparently this is normal

 

[mesa man]

Five years ago I changed the timing belt on a 99’ 100 series with 240,000 miles on the original belt!!! I bought this vehicle from the original owner and he said he had changed the timing belt but he didn’t know the difference between the serpentine belt. And he claimed dealer never informed him of the 90k mile t belt life. There was small cracks in the belt.

I recently repaired a 2uz in a 03’ tundra with a snapped timing belt, ran scope in the cylinders confirmed no damage reset cam Marks and crank to top dead center, installed belt in vehicle had a slight knock at first and then it went away. I talked to another mechanic and he said it can take up to 100 miles before the 2uz will self adjust timing etc.
I’m about to do another to 2uz in a 2001 Sequoia with a snapped belt. A referral from the tundra. snapped at idle. Shop said her motor was toast and offered 300 bucks for the whole thing,She was smart enough to say no.

 

[2001LC]

There's is no confirmed cases of a timing belt break, interfering. That is in the non VVT version of the 4.7L 2UZ-fe. Some reported blown, but never confirmed by proper inspection, just assumed.

Here's a 2005, where new belt installed. Cam BK2 spun (cam bolt not torqued) shearing knock pin and stop at different degrees as engine started and stop multiple times. I estimated, based on statement of how engine ran each time started, key off then restart. Cam started at 0 degrees (on the mark), 45, 90, 135 and 180 degrees off. Is was run and crank again and again. Yet no interference.

Timing belt job just done. Blown engine or savable? This is interesting guys!

Happy 2020 all. Well, I spent last day of 2019, inspecting a 2005 LC w/~200K, that was towed to me. That had a Timing Belt installed a few days before coming to me Let me know your thoughts: Blown engine from interference or is there hope? Also what do you think happened? Skip story and go...

forum.ih8mud.com

Timing belt is subject to climate and condition of spinning components (i.e. pulley bearings and water pump). If in a climate of extreme heat or extreme cold, 90k/10yr should be the maximum, if one wants reliability.

Most belt (aisin kit, Factory Toyota, Toyota USA) I see, are in great condition when removed. The worst belts I see, are the Gates belts. If I see a gates TB sticker, I recommend R&R at sooner PM than schedule calls for.

Here's the worst Toyota USA belt, I've seen, and only at 9yr with 109K miles. This Toyota USA belt in a VVT engine for~100K miles in the "ice box" of the nation, Fraser, CO. Where Temps ranges from -43f to +93f. The belt creaked as I turn the crank back and forth (CC & CCW).

The above belt, was replaced at Toyota Dealership at 45K miles. They, as is typically, did not replace pulleys, tensioner or fan bracket. Which I almost always do. But at 45K miles, I probably would not have either. At ~150K they all needed replacing.

Most of us, use the Aisin kit. Which if a genuine Aisin is a good kit.

Most are not replacing the fan bracket (FB). This is a mistake IMHO. Me, I almost always replace the FB. The FSM has an inspection procedure for the FB. It is rare these days, I see one that I'll pass. I do not cut any slack with FB inspection. It's either perfect or it's replaced. Note: I have seen engine blown, due to bad fan bracket shearing it's shaft. FB, is only a part cost, no extra labor, if done with TB service. In most cases, I use the Toyota Aisin Fan Bracket. It is built to a higher standard, than the Aisin. Looking at them side by side, it does appear so also.

If Fan Bracket has any one of these condition present, it fails inspection:
1) Side to side or in out play.
2) Any sound when spinning.
3) Any sign of oil at rear seal.

 

[baghloli123]

Many thanks for your replies. It did help.
I took my vehicle to a mechanic and had him looked at it. His finding was that the belt looked old but it does not have any sign of cracks etc. He said that I could drive it for a year or two but should plan to change in 2 years time frame. The engine according to him is non-interference [engine will stall but there wont be damage to cylinder blocks if timing belt breaks)

 

[Moparsncruisers]

There's is no confirmed cases of a timing belt break, interfering. That is in the non VVT version of the 4.7L 2UZ-fe. Some reported blown, but never confirmed by proper inspection, just assumed.

Here's a 2005, where new belt installed. Cam BK2 spun (cam bolt not torqued) shearing knock pin and stop at different degrees as engine started and stop multiple times. I estimated, based on statement of how engine ran each time started, key off then restart. Cam started at 0 degrees (on the mark), 45, 90, 135 and 180 degrees off. Is was run and crank again and again. Yet no interference.

Timing belt job just done. Blown engine or savable? This is interesting guys!

Happy 2020 all. Well, I spent last day of 2019, inspecting a 2005 LC w/~200K, that was towed to me. That had a Timing Belt installed a few days before coming to me Let me know your thoughts: Blown engine from interference or is there hope? Also what do you think happened? Skip story and go...

forum.ih8mud.com

Timing belt is subject to climate and condition of spinning components (i.e. pulley bearings and water pump). If in a climate of extreme heat or extreme cold, 90k/10yr should be the maximum, if one wants reliability.

Most belt (aisin kit, Factory Toyota, Toyota USA) I see, are in great condition when removed. The worst belts I see, are the Gates belts. If I see a gates TB sticker, I recommend R&R at sooner PM than schedule calls for.

Here's the worst Toyota USA belt, I've seen, and only at 9yr with 109K miles. This Toyota USA belt in a VVT engine for~100K miles in the "ice box" of the nation, Fraser, CO. Where Temps ranges from -43f to +93f. The belt creaked as I turn the crank back and forth (CC & CCW).

View attachment 3706785View attachment 3706786
The above belt, was replaced at Toyota Dealership at 45K miles. They, as is typically, did not replace pulleys, tensioner or fan bracket. Which I almost always do. But at 45K miles, I probably would not have either. At ~150K they all needed replacing.

Most of us, use the Aisin kit. Which if a genuine Aisin is a good kit.

Most are not replacing the fan bracket (FB). This is a mistake IMHO. Me, I almost always replace the FB. The FSM has an inspection procedure for the FB. It is rare these days, I see one that I'll pass. I do not cut any slack with FB inspection. It's either perfect or it's replaced. Note: I have seen engine blown, due to bad fan bracket shearing it's shaft. FB, is only a part cost, no extra labor, if done with TB service. In most cases, I use the Toyota Aisin Fan Bracket. It is built to a higher standard, than the Aisin. Looking at them side by side, it does appear so also.

If Fan Bracket has any one of these condition present, it fails inspection:
1) Side to side or in out play.
2) Any sound when spinning.
3) Any sign of oil at rear seal.

I'd take a gates over a dayco 10/10 times though!

 

[Tareq]

Does anyone know the OEM part numbers for the complete parts needed for the TB job?

I want to find out the price difference between the Aisin kit TKT-021 VS the TOYOTA parts ordered individually, thank you!