throttle body coolant hose bypass (and acceptable engine temps)? (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

any tips on taking the throttle body off? the one shop here in town didn't have any 1/8" coolant hose so i need to patch whatever is leaking. taking off the TB seems like the most direct route.
any tips? the lower right was tight so i'm soaking it with PB blaster tonight.
how do you guys get out the two bolts at the bottom? also how do you get them back in? they are quite a distance and the bolts are long - also my extensions seem to have come with wobble ends - so it seems like it would be a bit of a chore getting them out and in without dropping them?
maybe i can put a piece of baking tin/foil or part of a cardboard box in under it while pulling it so if it falls i can catch it or something.
anyway trying to take it slow here.
i'm guessing i will slice open some 3/4" hose or something or go looking - well could i use bicycle inner tube to patch over it with some hose clamps i guess?
THANKS

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Just like you are doing it. Sockets without the wobbly joint seem to allow for more torque. You may want to go up a size in your ratchet (or add a piece of pipe) to get more torque. The steel bolts are in aluminum and should come out without a ton of force.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

thanks a ton to everyone here. i got the TB off, used a magnet wand to pull the lower two bolts after loosening them. then inserted them into the TB when mounting it.
i used a couple rolled up tarps for my back while working next to the turned tire just so i could kind of reach up easy and also get a bead on what i was doing before trying to get up into the engine.
after removing the coolant hose #2 it looked like there was a pinhole where the clamp at into the hose where it connected to the block. i didn't touch the PHH but from the looks of it it doesn't seem like the guy that the PO bought it from actually did it like he said he did. i could be wrong but it looks like more than 50K on it to me.
anyway other than not hooking up the hose to the TB before mounting it the first time things went great with everyone's help.
initially at least it seems like it is running 10 degrees warmer around town (190F) than the 180 i think i have been seeing under heavy use but i'll track it.
i burped it for about twenty minutes but i may try it again. the hood is to get a new radiator out in while i'm up here and do all new hoses.
the other note is i'm kind of surprised how much can come out from that location with that small a leak once it's pressurized.
anyway i was only driving 15 minutes at a time and refilling so really grateful to get this under control.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Just like you are doing it. Sockets without the wobbly joint seem to allow for more torque. You may want to go up a size in your ratchet (or add a piece of pipe) to get more torque. The steel bolts are in aluminum and should come out without a ton of force.

thanks for everything charlie.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

kernal turned me on to his great thread on the PHH but also this vid that shows TB removal at 10:00. THANKS Kernal.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here's some pics of that coolant hose #2 (red) and the PHH (green). i forget what that connector is but it's all basically above the starter then move toward the engine.
the last one is where you need to fish that hose back up through the engine. i ran it up to the left of what i think is the fuel rail or something.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here's some pics of that coolant hose #2 (red) and the PHH (green). i forget what that connector is but it's all basically above the starter then move toward the engine.
the last one is where you need to fish that hose back up through the engine. i ran it up to the left of what i think is the fuel rail or something.

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here's that last pic.

 

[zapatius]

Your throttle cable isn't routed correctly. It needs to go on top of the coolant hose from the radiator (by the distributor).

 

[CharlieS]

Also, you were wondering if the PHH had been serviced. It looks like it has. The factory clamp that attaches the hose to the metal pipe has a pin in it, and is not that spring clamp style. At least on the ones I've done.

I'm a bit wierd, so I'd probably swap the PHH out again and with how reasonably priced the factory part is with the pipe and hose, I'd probably swap out that rusty one. But that's just me. Lots of people wouldn't bother and it'd be fine.

Good work so far!

 

[landcruiser3DP]

thanks here to all and @zapatius and charlie (especially for the kind words).
does anyone know the part number or fiche diagram for those new style hose clamps please? kernal turned me on to them and i would like to pick some up. i guess they are like quick attach deals or something.
also (please) i may have landed some help up here in which case i will do that PHH hard line.
am i correct in thinking it wouldn't be be a bad idea to steal a couple of these constant tension clamps from joey off my heater bypass (particularly this one at the rear block off) and use two of those if i do a PHH replacement when i do that hard line?
also does anyone know where the hard line is in the fiche? i have it circled here in a diagram i labelled "heating" in black but i can't find this diagram again online for some reason.

 

[Kernal]

Most new OEM Toyota factory hose clamps (except the wire type) come with a small tab attached which holds them open. That allows you to slide them onto the hose loosely, attach the hose to the pipe, slide the clamp into position, then using a pair of needle nose pliers grabbing the small tab and pulling/twisting (or use a pick or screwdriver tip) to flick the tab off the hose clamp "ears" which then clamp down on the hose.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Most new OEM Toyota factory hose clamps (except the wire type) come with a small tab attached which holds them open. That allows you to slide them onto the hose loosely, attach the hose to the pipe, slide the clamp into position, then using a pair of needle nose pliers grabbing the small tab and pulling/twisting (or use a pick or screwdriver tip) to flick the tab off the hose clamp "ears" which then clamp down on the hose.

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do you know where it is in the fiche on partsouq? i couldn't find it? also should i use the constant pressure clamps if i am going to put it in? meaning maybe these are easier to get to if i have to take it out later (hopefully a lot later)?

 

[gummycarbs]

also does anyone know where the hard line is in the fiche? i have it circled here in a diagram i labelled "heating"

It's on the "Heating & Air Conditioning - Water Piping" page.

Heating & Air Conditioning - Water Piping for 1992 - 2006 Toyota LAND CRUISER FZJ80 | General sales region, , 18028654-936857

Looking for genuine OEM Heating & Air Conditioning - Water Piping for 1992 - 2006 Toyota LAND CRUISER FZJ80 (General sales region, , 18028654-936857)? Check on MegaZip at discounted price from manufacturers' warehouses in Japan, USA, UAE. Detailed diagrams & catalogues. Worldwide shipping. Easy...

www.megazip.net

Personally, I replaced the hard line with Gates Green Stripe. I used Breeze Aero-Seal Liner Clamps, which are stainless and lined so that they don't bite into hoses. I've had zero leaks driving and parking between about 18F and 118F over several years. People are too obsessed with "constant-torque" clamps here.

Spring-style hose clamps are, in my experience, actually way harder to work with than screw-tightening clamps. It helps to have locking, cable-actuated hose clamp pliers, but they're still a pain.

 

[cahill]

I have found the oem spring style clamps are easy to work with. A pair of needle nose pliers with a right angle bend can be useful if you need to re-load the retaining tab but they haven't given me any trouble so far.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

thanks man.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

I have found the oem spring style clamps are easy to work with. A pair of needle nose pliers with a right angle bend can be useful if you need to re-load the retaining tab but they haven't given me any trouble so far.

so would you guys leave the weird multi wrap clamp to the pipe then and use the OEM style to the block is that it?

 

[cahill]

so would you guys leave the weird multi wrap clamp to the pipe then and use the OEM style to the block is that it?

I would leave the sardine can clamp on if you buy the pipe assemblywith the PHH and hardline pre-assembled, but I think someone (Kernal maybe?) had a new one leak. If you are worried about it, then take the sardine clamp off and replace it with an OEM spring style clamp, and use an OEM spring style clamp at the other end that doesn"t come with a clamp from factory. One benefit of changing out the sardine clamp to a spring loaded one is that you won't have to try to remove the sardine style clamp in the engine bay when you have to replace the PHH again sometime down the road.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

look at you go, getting after it! Proud of you!

 

[Kernal]

If you wanted to do the PHH once and not think about it again for 30+++ years you could use Gates Power Grip Heat Shrink clamps (bands) along with Gates Greenstripe 5/8" hose as mentioned above. The heat shrink clamps can almost totally cover the PHH so you end up with essentially another layer of protection.

https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/knowledge-center/resource-library/installation-guides/powergrip-sb-clamp-installation-instructions.pdf

This is what I did on my 97 model (can't find the photos) and it is likely overkill as the head will have to come off before my PHH hose leaks again.

Having said that I used Gates Green Stripe for the PHH on another 80 about ?15-18 years ago using Breeze type clamps and it's still good.

If you stick with conventional hose clamps IMHO I would at least pull off the original wire clamp, scuff up and repaint the pipe with a good rattle can paint (I used Spraymax 2K catalyzed primer and paint), and then replace the original wire clamp with a constant tension clamp (your pick) on the pipe assembly.

Reason is that, IME, that type of wire clamp allows (more) coolant/water to get between the hose and the end of the pipe causing corrosion. So if you think long term knowing that pipe will become NLA sooner rather than later, you'll want to keep it in good condition.

FWIW

 

[BILT4ME]

look at you go, getting after it! Proud of you!

Has any work actually been done?

I can tell lots of lists have been made, lots of wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth.......

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Has any work actually been done?

I can tell lots of lists have been made, lots of wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth.......

I saw a throttle body that was removed, i’m trying to be nicer these days