throttle body coolant hose bypass (and acceptable engine temps)? (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

Off topic, but I have never seen my intake air temps at 71 degrees after the engine has warmed up. It's always above 100. WTF?

hey. thanks for the eyeballs. what is air intake temp anyway? what's inside the plenum before it goes into the engine? also is it related to the ambient temperature in any way?
it throw a p0110 code last night - which i am trying to get on top of today and even though that photo was from a couple days ago i am sure - which is an air intake sensor code. from what i can gather i am supposed to clean the MAF, reconnect connectors and check a 2 1/2"-3" diameter hose for signs of cracking.
anyway maybe the tro are related?

 

[ChargedSHOTaco]

hey. thanks for the eyeballs. what is air intake temp anyway? what's inside the plenum before it goes into the engine? also is it related to the ambient temperature in any way?
it throw a p0110 code last night - which i am trying to get on top of today and even though that photo was from a couple days ago i am sure - which is an air intake sensor code. from what i can gather i am supposed to clean the MAF, reconnect connectors and check a 2 1/2"-3" diameter hose for signs of cracking.
anyway maybe the tro are related?

The air intake temp is the tempertature of the air passing through the MAF. The temp sensor is built into the MAF. Typically, the ECU will begin to pull timing if the air intake temp exceeds a predetermined temperature.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

I’ve done that hose, not as difficult as the PHH but not exactly straight forward like most other hoses. IIRC I had to remove the throttle body to get to the other side of the hose where it tees into the head.

I’d replace it and be done with it as opposed to capping and hoping it doesn’t bite you later.

hey man. thanks for this. so i got some PB blaster at the hardware store. i also have to clean the MAF and reconnect or bend some contacts in the connector for it.
so soak four or five bolts and just start removing hoses?
does the speedo cable stay attached?
also was it 1/2" ID coolant hose? i picked up some stuff today but i want to make sure i have the right stuff for obvious reasons (not being able to go anywhere after i open it up).

 

[zapatius]

There is a combination of three hoses, the hard line through the throttle body, and another pipe (hard line) that wraps around the front of the block in that coolant flow between the block and the thermostat housing. You seem intent on blocking it off at the thermostat housing - yes, you can do that with a 3/16" cap and clamp. Then you need to figure out where to block off the other end. If you want to eliminate all of the potentially leaking hoses and pipes, you can cap it at the side of the block. Or you can block it at another point, if it suits you.

I'll get the details wrong, but the heated coolant circuit through the throttle body is to prevent icing of the throttle body.

=

hey man. thanks for this. so i got some PB blaster at the hardware store. i also have to clean the MAF and reconnect or bend some contacts in the connector for it.
so soak four or five bolts and just start removing hoses?
does the speedo cable stay attached?
also was it 1/2" ID coolant hose? i picked up some stuff today but i want to make sure i have the right stuff for obvious reasons (not being able to go anywhere after i open it up).

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I would pull the *throttle* cable off and replace it. Yours looks pretty rough.

Sorry, brain is fried.

 

[OGBeno]

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I would pull the speedo cable off and replace it. Yours looks pretty rough.

Throttle cable.

 

[77mustard40]

I replaced the hose with a TEQ original since it’s got unique bends. First one lasted 25 years so I figured that was the way to go for me.

 

[Saito]

You can just cap both ends(at the thermostat housing and at the head) and eliminate a lot of connection points and possible leaks. I’ve been running this way for three years w/o issue. Doubtful you’d see any difference in temps.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

I would pull the *throttle* cable off and replace it. Yours looks pretty rough.

Sorry, brain is fried.

thanks a lot Z.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

You can just cap both ends(at the thermostat housing and at the head) and eliminate a lot of connection points and possible leaks. I’ve been running this way for three years w/o issue. Doubtful you’d see any difference in temps.

thanks man. how hard is it to get in to cap it at the head? for some dumb reason i didn't realize of course i need to cap it at the head.
also it seems like it runs up as a hard line and sort of just to the left side of the valve cover? then it is just a short length?
there is one that is kind of like a "transfer hose" that i think goes from under rhe TB on one side to under the TB on the other side and i'm told i both need to pull the TB to get at it but also pull the DS wheel to get one side back on.
the one from the thermostat - well can i get to the other end without pulling the TB?
part of it is just how much space or time i have and when/if i have a mechanic to do radiator i and hoses. in which case i might just drive in with rad cap cracked a bit and eye on temp gauge. maybe burp it the night before.
if i do need to pull the wheel it gets tricky finding cribbing or jack stands or something...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

The air intake temp is the tempertature of the air passing through the MAF. The temp sensor is built into the MAF. Typically, the ECU will begin to pull timing if the air intake temp exceeds a predetermined temperature.

hey CST. learning here please. "pull timing" implies it doesn't like the hot air? so it - well it's not so much it doesn't like the hot air it - well what's pull timing? it tells the engine to rev higher than it normally would? lower? or it changed the timing? just thing to track this...

 

[Rifleman]

What I used was 5/16" (8mm) silcone caps and stainless worm clamps.

Just a word of caution about using caps, They have no reinforcing cords in them and can pop/fail at the worst possible time
I found this out the hard way in the middle of the summer stuck on I 8 about 30 miles west of Yuma Az
A better and stronger choice instead of a rubber cap would be a short piece of reinforced hose with a metal plug clamped in the end of it

 

[zapatius]

Don't drive with your radiator cap cracked. The cap creates pressure, which increases coolant boiling point. You're going to spew coolant.

You don't have to take the wheel off to get to the hoses you're referring to. You can do it from underneath.

 

[ChaseTruck]

I don't get it (but I didn't get the other thread, either...).
There's leak at the short hose in the front of the motor.
Why not simply replace the hose that's leaking?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Don't drive with your radiator cap cracked. The cap creates pressure, which increases coolant boiling point. You're going to spew coolant.

You don't have to take the wheel off to get to the hoses you're referring to. You can do it from underneath.

thanks man.
i see this metal hard line which i think goes to a 1/2"D about 4-6" length of hose.
do you think i can get to it from just taking that air intake line off?
also i think - aside from the PHH - there is another about 8" - 1/2"D?! - line that goes into the block in two places? i can't even see either of those so even if i am feeling around in there i'm not sure how i'd get a pair of needle nose on the hose clamp? we couldn't even find where it was leaking when we shine a flashlight up in there?

 

[CharlieS]

Just a word of caution about using caps, They have no reinforcing cords in them and can pop/fail at the worst possible time
I found this out the hard way in the middle of the summer stuck on I 8 about 30 miles west of Yuma Az
A better and stronger choice instead of a rubber cap would be a short piece of reinforced hose with a metal plug clamped in the end of it

Like many things in life, it depends. I used silicone caps that do have reinforcement.

 

[ChargedSHOTaco]

hey CST. learning here please. "pull timing" implies it doesn't like the hot air? so it - well it's not so much it doesn't like the hot air it - well what's pull timing? it tells the engine to rev higher than it normally would? lower? or it changed the timing? just thing to track this...

Pull timing just means it reduces the ignition advance to prevent detonation. When the ECU does this, engine performance is reduced.

While the intake air temp on your truck may seem low compared to mine, it could very well be ok. I would check to see that your MAF is performing as it should, and the wiring harness is all good. I’ve attached the diagnostic process form the factory service manual below.

I do have a brand new MAF for sale if you need a replacement, but they are expensive, so going through the process to check proper operation of your existing MAF is well worth it.

 

[Saito]

Like many things in life, it depends. I used silicone caps that do have reinforcement.

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Proper. They’re also like 10 to 35$ a piece as well. I just used hose and chunks of rod to “cap” mine. They’ll get plugs when I re-do my other head and engine.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Pull timing just means it reduces the ignition advance to prevent detonation. When the ECU does this, engine performance is reduced.

While the intake air temp on your truck may seem low compared to mine, it could very well be ok. I would check to see that your MAF is performing as it should, and the wiring harness is all good. I’ve attached the diagnostic process form the factory service manual below.

I do have a brand new MAF for sale if you need a replacement, but they are expensive, so going through the process to check proper operation of your existing MAF is well worth it.

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thanks man. multi-tasking here but trying not to miss an opportunity to learn something. so it retards the ignition so it sparks on each cylinder later? i get turned around on this a lot but episode this mean you could have a higher than normal idle speed? i noticed my idle was higher than normal is why i ask.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

any tips on taking the throttle body off? the one shop here in town didn't have any 1/8" coolant hose so i need to patch whatever is leaking. taking off the TB seems like the most direct route.
any tips? the lower right was tight so i'm soaking it with PB blaster tonight.
how do you guys get out the two bolts at the bottom? also how do you get them back in? they are quite a distance and the bolts are long - also my extensions seem to have come with wobble ends - so it seems like it would be a bit of a chore getting them out and in without dropping them?
maybe i can put a piece of baking tin/foil or part of a cardboard box in under it while pulling it so if it falls i can catch it or something.
anyway trying to take it slow here.
i'm guessing i will slice open some 3/4" hose or something or go looking - well could i use bicycle inner tube to patch over it with some hose clamps i guess?
THANKS

 

[Rifleman]

Like many things in life, it depends. I used silicone caps that do have reinforcement.

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I learned something new today, thank you!