Just bought a 97 LC and looking for advice on taking the body off so that I can blast and paint the frame. How difficult is this? Any videos out there?
Thoughts on taking the cab/ body off (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bigjayva
- Start date
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It can be done, but it's a very, very time consuming process. I don't recall off hand, but there are something like 8-10 body mount bolts, but then there's all kinds of connectors you're going to have to undo to the motor and trans, etc. The cooling system will need to be disconnected in places due to the heaters, AC lines, fuel lines and tank, etc. Then there's still the issue of the drivetrain and suspension to get it down to the bare frame for blasting. Not worth the effort IMO.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
truthdetector
GOLD Star
I currently have my '97 body off the frame and learned the following (off the top of my head).
Rather than removing the numerous harness connectors from the engine/trans, remove it from the ECU behind the glove box and pull it into the firewall. MUCH easier this way.
There are 10 body mounts, most are relatively easy to remove, depending on rust. The front two on my rig were a PITA and required some hammering because the mount was seized into their holes.
Other things are more obvious: Coolant lines to radiator and firewall, fuel lines where they meet the intake and canister, brake lines where they connect between engine bay and frame, e-brake cable, shifter linkages, air intake tube, diff breathers, abs connections, exhaust, A/C lines, and probably a few other things I'm not remembering.
I removed the intake manifold before lifting the body, but I'm not sure if it was necessary.
Worth the effort in my opinion...current status of frame after being cleaned of rust and coated with Macropoxy 646. Waiting on bushing press kit to finish the control arms.
Rather than removing the numerous harness connectors from the engine/trans, remove it from the ECU behind the glove box and pull it into the firewall. MUCH easier this way.
There are 10 body mounts, most are relatively easy to remove, depending on rust. The front two on my rig were a PITA and required some hammering because the mount was seized into their holes.
Other things are more obvious: Coolant lines to radiator and firewall, fuel lines where they meet the intake and canister, brake lines where they connect between engine bay and frame, e-brake cable, shifter linkages, air intake tube, diff breathers, abs connections, exhaust, A/C lines, and probably a few other things I'm not remembering.
I removed the intake manifold before lifting the body, but I'm not sure if it was necessary.
Worth the effort in my opinion...current status of frame after being cleaned of rust and coated with Macropoxy 646. Waiting on bushing press kit to finish the control arms.
Fluid film for the win. Cover exhaust, spray on, smell like baby sheep for a week. Rinse and repeat annually.
I've done a couple, and will parrot, very time consuming. I went the route of fully parting out before swapping to another body, which, labeling everything, and taking tons of photos has saved my bacon.
A lift is beneficial, but not an absolute requirement. I was able to swap bodies by myself in my driveway with an engine hoist, Jack and Jack stands, and cinder blocks and pipe. A few others have tackled theirs this way.
They do get easier. That said, if this is your daily or you have a time limit, make sure you have all parts ready to go. I did many while-you're-in-there things that added time, along with ordering parts and whatnot. But, with some help, a lift, all the parts, and a few friends handy, it can be tackled in a long weekend. Several have done this; search for "body swap" to get pictures and videos.
@truthdetector had a good point about the harness.
Since you're keeping everything the same, you may only be concerned about hoses, hardware breakage, and other consumables that may need replacing when you lift the body.
I also took the opportunity to install a body lift, since, I was already replacing the mangled and compressed body mounts and bolts.
Good luck! I would say, it is worth it. You'll know your vehicle inside and out by the end of it.
A lift is beneficial, but not an absolute requirement. I was able to swap bodies by myself in my driveway with an engine hoist, Jack and Jack stands, and cinder blocks and pipe. A few others have tackled theirs this way.
They do get easier. That said, if this is your daily or you have a time limit, make sure you have all parts ready to go. I did many while-you're-in-there things that added time, along with ordering parts and whatnot. But, with some help, a lift, all the parts, and a few friends handy, it can be tackled in a long weekend. Several have done this; search for "body swap" to get pictures and videos.
@truthdetector had a good point about the harness.
Since you're keeping everything the same, you may only be concerned about hoses, hardware breakage, and other consumables that may need replacing when you lift the body.
I also took the opportunity to install a body lift, since, I was already replacing the mangled and compressed body mounts and bolts.
Good luck! I would say, it is worth it. You'll know your vehicle inside and out by the end of it.
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FMC80
SILVER Star
This all sounds super horrible.
If someone was to lift the body to change out the 10 bushings, how high could you go before getting into trouble? A few extra inches could help get a wire wheel brush or scrapers to clean up rusty areas and paint.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
^ this, like if we didnt want to break all of the fittings; is it possible to slip in and do the 10 mounts? not sure i can do this on the driveway but it would be nice if we could tackle this and pop these 30 year old "rocks" off for new bushings
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, you can R & R the bushings without removing the body. The bolts come out without removing the bushings and they should slide out afterwards.
I doubt you'd be able to get the body high enough to get anything larger than a bottle brush between the body any frame without stretching something that didn't want to be stretched.
Another body off today, just keeps getting better. Use penetrant, heat, and patience on the tough bolts. If it’s head is a 10mm, it will snap easily. The 12’s are better. A lift makes the job a lot easier.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Funny you say that about the 10mm. Couple of 10mm bolts found on the 80 were superseded to 12mm. Case in point: the 4 bolts that hold the rear actuator to the third member
Is it possible to blast/wirewheel and paint around the drivetrain without removing it completely?
Not easily. It's a pretty tight fit around the tranny and T-case. Lifting the body would certainly make it easier, if you completely lift it off, more than just a few inches.
