Thoughts on long single swing out (2 Viewers)

[half k cruiser]

@Corbet the frame of that ladder looks just right size wise, I think 1.5'' is the way to go. I also like how you used square tube for the steps instead of round. That should provide a more secure step surface as well as open up more possibilities as far as mounting other accessories. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Corbet]

@Corbet the frame of that ladder looks just right size wise, I think 1.5'' is the way to go. I also like how you used square tube for the steps instead of round. That should provide a more secure step surface as well as open up more possibilities as far as mounting other accessories. Thank you for sharing.

All the same reasons for my decisions.

 

[LS1FJ40]

I've been talking with @reevesci (aka Jason at Trail Tailor) about a dual swing out bumper for the 80 for almost a year. He's finally agreed to build them! One of my requests to him was that it have the capability to remove the swing outs during the week so I have access to my cargo area without messing with the swing outs. And for the bumper to not look like it is missing something when the swing outs are not on. (No spindle sticking up through the bumper) Then I can put the swing outs on come Friday when I go. I've had a rear bumper with dual swing outs before and I hated it for DD use. It was great on the trail but not when getting anything out of the back during the week.

He has finished up his design and I love it. I think it is perfectly spot on. Having a clean (and ridiculously strong) rear bumper with dual swing outs that I can remove is the perfect scenario for me. His craftsmanship, attention to detail (seriously, go check out his thread) and service are incredible. I have been following his work for 40, 55, 60, 70 series rigs and am glad he agreed to make stuff for the 80. I can't wait to get mine.

 

[Corbet]

I pull an off road trailer but the tongue is 4' long so I should be fine.............. I hope.

Unless you never mount anything to the tongue. Even with nothing mounted to my M101a I barely get the longer tire swing arm to open. I just can't see a single long arm personally. Simply getting out of its way sounds like a PITA to me.

 

[ReformedJeeper]

I have one long swing out with a 37" spare tire and high lift. It's a pain in the rear end (literally), especially when you are on any sort of a slope. The swing out gets really heavy and moves very fast in the situations when unlatched. In those cases a dual would probably be better. Personally, I think you get the cheapest swing out you can purchase and get at least one flip up rear window (I'm saving my pennies)

wagongear.com » Flip Up Hatch Window

On a side note, I was once was pinned up against a rock with no access to my recovery gear, I now carry all my tools in 2 lockable toolboxes on my roof rack. If you wheel hard, don't bury your recovery gear in the back if you have a swing out.

 

[LFD2037]

Welding spindle onto bumper and arm on now. Quick question:
In the thread Luke made about building the bumper, he says to put all the bearings in the spindle 'sleeve/collar', put the sleeve over the spindle then weld the arm to the sleeve. Can I leave the bearings in the sleeve the whole time I weld the arm to it? I'd think they'd get hot and warp or get seriously misaligned. I don't have a race puller so once I install the bearings they're installed for good. Input???

 

[half k cruiser]

I thought that was in case the sleeve warped you wouldn't have to worry about it going back over the bearings ? I bet they can take the heat, they are surely some sort of high Q stainless steel.

 

[LFD2037]

Said F it and did it. So now I've got the spindle 80% welded in and the arm 100% welded to the sleeve. Now need to decide on the true length of the arm, cut it to length, then start creating the latch system. I have 2 Destaco 2K locking latches (yes I know 2K isn't enough...... cough cough bull**** cough cough!). Need to decide if I'm using 1 or both of them. 1 for front to back movement and 1 for left to right movement or just 1. Probably just 1, maybe at a 45* angle? We'll see. Bumper is mounted to my truck, and I have no one to help me take it off, so I'm kind of dead in the water as of now.

 

[half k cruiser]

@LFD2037 I really think you could get away with just using a trailer hitch pin through the arm and through a custom socket. It would be cheap, easy to use, and it shouldn't allow any movement as long as you drill the holes real tight.

 

[LFD2037]

I already bought the strut and I have a bunch of scrap I can make the spindle sleeve stop with. No sweat on the latches. I have zero reservations in using one or both. Just a matter of getting it all dialed in. The Killian's is helping persuade me into deciding the angle/location of the clamp.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

I also have the old slee single swing out. One latch is enough of a pain in the ass that I don't want two. I have been in some tight spots but have never had problems with it except when pulling the M416 trailer. I'm not sure a dual swing out would even clear the short pintle hitch on that thing. I'm in the process of lengthening the tongue. As far as the 2000 latch on the swing out. It is enough as it is only there to tighten down the arm. There is a big metal pull pin that locks it in position.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

However I am thinking about upgrading the latch now that I see those ones with longer handles. I like it nice and tight to eliminate rattles and it is almost test of strength. A little more leverage would be nice.

Another nice feature of the single swing out is being able to add a little swing down table like the guys in oz have done. If you had two swing outs that would make the space between the tailgate and swing down table too confining:

 

[half k cruiser]

@wearsabrowncoat is that a spring loaded latch pin on your swing out ? Do you have pictures of that up close with everything closed up ?

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

Yes. It is spring loaded. Same one at the end of the swing out arm and next to the latch in the above picture. Locks in vertically when closed with another one on the pivot side to lock the swing out open so it doesn't close on you if on uneven ground.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

It would be great for our 80 series to have different sized barn doors like a 70 series so you could have a swing out on one side and still have a swing out free door to open.

 

[half k cruiser]

Agreed ^ , had an Isuzu Trooper with the barn doors and I thought they were fantastic. Only downside is you don't have a cool set to sit on.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I have 2 Destaco 2K locking latches (yes I know 2K isn't enough...... cough cough bull**** cough cough!). ...

Maybe, but we have replaced several that have failed. If lightly loaded/used and properly setup, they are a good gamble, maybe, heavier stuff/use, not so much.

The swing needs to have pads on the latch end, horizontal and vertical, so it sits solidly on the bumper. Especially if your gambling on the latch, but always a good idea to have a solid, strong swing stop. If not, when the latch fails or isn't latched, the swing comes around with high momentum and the tire, etc, caves in the quarter. An example of one we made on a '40, it's .5" steel.

 

[inkpot]

Yes. It is spring loaded. Same one at the end of the swing out arm and next to the latch in the above picture. Locks in vertically when closed with another one on the pivot side to lock the swing out open so it doesn't close on you if on uneven ground.

Only problem with the spring pin setup is that with a lot of washboard gravel road and trail time the hole in the bumper wears out. If gets big and sloppy and let's the arm wobble around. Also, the pins tend to shear off at the point where they are milled down from 1/2" to 1/4" diameter. They should be left as half inch all the way thru the hole in the bumper. I would also recommend the heavier clamps. It is not a matter of adequate clamping pressure, rather it is failure due to the lateral movement that fatigues the clamp. Just watch the top of the spare tire on a washboard road. It WILL oscillate quite a lot on even the best built swing out rack. I recommend a little extra beef. Wherever you can.

 

[LFD2037]

Done minus the ladder. I refused to use 2 latches and didn't want to use one at a 45* angle. I used cutting board material, 1" thick, on the bottom to stop any rattles. I used angle iron to create a forward brace. Used a Destaco 2K locking latch for downward force. Disregard the paint. Its temporary only to stop rust.

 

[SHREDwagon]

that's worth repeating. If you ever pull a trailer, you'll quickly develop a new attitude towards the swing-out. One long one all but guarantees you're not getting into the back,

And if you have a drawer set-up or fridge where access is key, guarantee you will be regretting the single long arm. Not to be a downer.