Thoughts after my first PHH job - with pic (1 Viewer)

[Flank]

There have been multiple threads on the PHH, and the documentation is plentiful, but I liken this to sales training and inspiration books - they all say the same thing, and you have already heard it, yet we like to hear it said a different way.

My scenario - I have family in town for the holidays and two small kids (1 and 3). My wrenching time is in the evenings after everyone else is either in bed or comatose in front of the telly.

Started at 9pm, at 11pm when I am sitting under the wheel well with grime up to my elbows, my comes out and proclaims that our 1 year old has woken up 4 times and SHE needs to get sleep. Suffice to say, I was disgruntled. After instantly dropping everything it took a full 20 minutes of scrubbing before I was in a fit state to touch the baby and stay up until 2:30 am with him. (for the record, both he and my wife are very worth it.)

Finished in the morning. The brief rest was good to calm my anxieties and frustration of getting the PHH off. Installation of the new hose was EASY.

Here are my comments on the job:

- The designer of the OE clamp configuration and placement of the PHH is a bastard. The first (outside clamp) came off with much stress and a Dremel. Stress because I was scared of cutting too much. The second (inside) clamp is placed exactly in the hardest configuration to get to with pliers. Pure Evil. Finallly, got it off with combination of Dremel, pliers, screwdriver, and a crap nights sleep in between sessions.
-The difficulty of the job is ALL about removal of the old hose.
-Stress? YUP. Time and patience are your best allies.
-I ordered the Green hose from the PHH guy/ site listed in vendors, he accidentally sent the blue silicone - Thanks for that.
-Do yourself a favor and just buck up the extra $5 for the silicone. I have heard that the Gates Green is stiff. The Blue is very flexible and there is not a lot of give to the upper tube. Flexibility is key for the ease of installation.
-If replacement of the new hose with the self adjusting clamps were necessary, it could be done it 20 min easy. They are easy to install and would be easy to remove.
-DO YOURSELF A FAVOR: unbolt the two 12mm bolts holding the upper Transmission dipstick tube and move it out of the way. I figured this out half way through, it was night and day for access. One by the top of tube, and one right by the starter / frame rail area. Both are very easy to access.
-I did not remove my starter (could not budge the 17mm bolt) but did disconnect the electrical to it to get the wires out of the way. Plenty of room for this 6'1'' 240 lbs man to work. (after moving the trans dipstick tube).
-I installed new constant pressure clamps pointing down and to the front. Ratcheting box end wrench (8mm) made their installation easy.


SO, with my right of passage completed,
here is a picture of my OE PHH after removal.

 

[Brian894X4]

Welcome to the club!

 

[VanGo]

Landcruiser addiction eventually becomes nirvana.

 

[AKcruiserfreak]

Fortunately I bought my 80 with the PHH already done. Thanks Smitty! It does not look fun.

TK

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I guess I'm among the few that actually pulled it out in one piece

Mine acually looked like it could go another 100k miles with ease

As for installing a new hose, the trick is to let it sit in hot water for a few minutes to make it extra flexible

 

[Brentbba]

Damn - that one looks good.

Thanks to Slomo's VERY patient guidance and help mine got done a year ago. Looked not too much worse than yours pictured. Came off in one piece with generous help from the dremmel also on those darn OE clamps. I honestly could not have done it w/o Mo's help.

 

[Dusty]

dont waste your time on the next go around. just run a normal piece of 5/8" heater hose from the block to the heater assemble and bypass the metal line and all that crap.

 

[Flank]

dont waste your time on the next go around. just run a normal piece of 5/8" heater hose from the block to the heater assemble and bypass the metal line and all that crap.

Kind of the point of the Silicone is that there won't BE an next go around.

 

[supercarrera]

For me getting the original clamps off was a piece of cake with some huge channel locks. Just don't try to replace with the green stripe hope. It's impossible. Well, at least i wasn't able to get it on.

 

[retrofive]

For me getting the original clamps off was a piece of cake with some huge channel locks. Just don't try to replace with the green stripe hope. It's impossible. Well, at least i wasn't able to get it on.

Yep, I wont say impossible, but far to hard. I tried the 2.5" replacement, no go. Going the other route, full tubing back up top.

here is what mine looked like after removing....

 

[aznxfactor]

Bringing up this thread again. My phh broke and I ordered the part. I'd prefer to pay my mechanic to get it done.

My question is that would I be able to drive it to the shop and not destroy the engine? Long story short, my sister drove it and it bursted, overheated, and spilled oil all over the axle. Can it drive 10 miles without blowing up? Please let me know.

 

[LINUS]

Bringing up this thread again. My phh broke and I ordered the part. I'd prefer to pay my mechanic to get it done.

My question is that would I be able to drive it to the shop and not destroy the engine? Long story short, my sister drove it and it bursted, overheated, and spilled oil all over the axle. Can it drive 10 miles without blowing up? Please let me know.

It is a coolant hose, not oil. If you have oil, it's not the PHH.

And any burst hose means I'd call the tilt-deck for a 10mi trip.

Even paying $100 for the trip is chump-change compared to any risk you may think is worth taking.

 

[HAAANK]

Bringing up this thread again. My phh broke and I ordered the part. I'd prefer to pay my mechanic to get it done.

My question is that would I be able to drive it to the shop and not destroy the engine? Long story short, my sister drove it and it bursted, overheated, and spilled oil all over the axle. Can it drive 10 miles without blowing up? Please let me know.

If it’s oil that spilt, it’s a completely different situation than a phh.

In Austin? NOT worth the risk. I unintentionally drove ~300mi on a burst rad in a subzero blizzard. The engine didn’t overheat due to weather conditions. I’d never do it intentionally.

 

[aznxfactor]

I think it's oil as it's dark. I'm not sure what's going on. It over heated to the point the car stalled, I popped the hood and saw a leak all over the place. It looked like oil but as you can tell now I'm confused.

I researched before asking the question and it seemed like car over heating and leaks at the bottom of my engine should be the PHH. However it seems that I'm wrong. Any ideas?

Should I turn on the car with the hood open and wait for it to overheat again to see where it's coming from or what it is?

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I would check your oil level before starting it up again.

 

[aznxfactor]

I would check your oil level before starting it up again.

I checked it at the time and it showed oil in the middle. Not full and in the middle. Ill check again.

 

[ajax1]

Do not let it overheat unless you wanna do headgasket, since you say it has already overheated you will prob be doing a headgasket, look up above the starter there are two hoses. The big shorty one is the phh the other is the bypass number 3 that runs up to throttle body.

 

[LINUS]

I think it's oil as it's dark. I'm not sure what's going on. It over heated to the point the car stalled, I popped the hood and saw a leak all over the place.

Should I turn on the car with the hood open and wait for it to overheat again to see where it's coming from or what it is?

No.
Check your oil & pop the cap off the radiator, really look in there & not just the overflow tank.

There's no reason to run the motor until you know everything is good.

Even then, you already had your sister cook it to the point is stalled.

You need to identify which fluid is gone.

 

[Mountainpassing]

After your mechanic accepts the vehicle from the tow truck ask him to do a full inspection as well.
Nothing would make me feel better.. and you too

 

[aznxfactor]

Here is an update:

So I checked everywhere around the car to see what was leaking. I took some pics. Some input would be nice. Planning on a tow truck or hiring a mobile mechanic to look at the problem to fix.

The radiator tank is full but I can't tell if there is fluid inside the radiator. The pics is all I can see. Good thing is that it isn't milky so no bad head gaskets to worry about so far.

Next is where the oil is leaking. I think it's oil. However I also took pics of the oil in the engine and it looks full to me....

Also took a couple pics of hoses that may have been the culprit?