Thoughts after my first PHH job - with pic (1 Viewer)

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dont waste your time on the next go around. just run a normal piece of 5/8" heater hose from the block to the heater assemble and bypass the metal line and all that crap.
Exactly. Bypass the metal pipe and it's a 20 minute job.
 
You can leave it. It's a pain to remove
 
Does the metal pipe need to be removed to bypass or can you just leave it in place?
I think it would be in the way. The PHH is a shorty. The Metal Pipe of Doom is mounted only an inch or so away from the mouth that you would have to connect to. There is a way to score the MPoD without having to find someone with small hand that wants to get the bolt off the back of the head, or decide if you want to sacrifice your own hand. One of those Gearwrench deals is pretty much the only tool that will work with any efficiency.

You can just run a knife along the back of it to make a scratch and then just wiggle the MPoD until the flange breaks. I kept my pipe, but I left the bolt off on the back of the head.
 
What year is your truck? 93-94 or 95-97?

The leak you see out the bottom COULD BE where you spilled it when filling the radiator. We cannot tell from the pic. If it is leaking in that area, it will be either the top or bottom tank on the radiator, which would indicate a required radiator replacement.

The 93-94 trucks have a brass radiator and may be able to be repaired. The 95-97 trucks have an aluminum radiator with plastic top/bottom tanks that end up leaking or splitting. This would require replacement.

Thing you MUST do:
Flush the entire cooling system with water. Distilled is preferable, but hose or tap water will work initially.
Flush the overflow tank with water an fill to the "minimum" level.
Buy some new GREEN coolant. Buy EITHER the 50/50 pre-mix OR the concentrate, but not both.
Run the truck up to temperature with the cap off, or until the water/coolant starts to overflow the fill neck.
Turn on your HEATER and slide the heater slide all the way to HOT.
Install the radiator cap and operate the truck, looking for leaks.
Pinpoint the leak and then you will be able to correctly identify what need to happen next.

There are many threads on here about aftermarket radiators as well as OEM radiators. Just get the right one for your truck and situation. I also recommend that you consider replacing all your hoses at this time. They are 20+ years old and are on the verge of blowing out anyway, so you may as well be pro-active about it. This is called While I'm In There (WIIT) stuff.
Radiator hoses
PHH and 3rd PHH hoses
Heater Valve
Rear heater lines bypass (for the heater under the passenger seat)


You have multiple problems going on.
First and foremost is lack of coolant. It appears to be leaking if we could interpret your pic correctly.
Yes, you have oil leaks. There are multiple that occur. Front main seal, oil pump seal, distributor O-Ring seal, valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals will cover 80% of your leaks. The first two are recommended to do when you have your radiator out because it makes them a WHOLE lot easier.

I don't know your financial situation or your daily need for the truck, but it may be time to do some serious baselining on it.

You don't seem to have a lot of experience.
You need to hook up with a couple local Cruiser Heads (Look up above in the Clubhouses section to find a local club) They can and will help you walk through this and teach you.

Damn good advice....follow this!
 
I think it would be in the way. The PHH is a shorty. The Metal Pipe of Doom is mounted only an inch or so away from the mouth that you would have to connect to. There is a way to score the MPoD without having to find someone with small hand that wants to get the bolt off the back of the head, or decide if you want to sacrifice your own hand. One of those Gearwrench deals is pretty much the only tool that will work with any efficiency.

You can just run a knife along the back of it to make a scratch and then just wiggle the MPoD until the flange breaks. I kept my pipe, but I left the bolt off on the back of the head.
I just bent mine out of the way at the bottom.
 
I just bent mine out of the way at the bottom.
Of course, just smash it out of the way. That is obviously possible, but I wouldn't put the IH8MUD stamp of approval on there. It just seems kinda lazy and if I saw that on an 80 I was thinking about buying, I would ask myself "what else did they cut corners on?".
 
Of course, just smash it out of the way. That is obviously possible, but I wouldn't put the IH8MUD stamp of approval on there. It just seems kinda lazy and if I saw that on an 80 I was thinking about buying, I would ask myself "what else did they cut corners on?".
Or you can waste 5 hours trying to out a small 2 inch hose on. And I didn't "smash" it you can literally bend it over one inch with your hand and the bypass hose can pass right by it. Or you can remove it. That is, if you can get it off. Luckily I didn't ask for your stamp of approval on my pesky heater hose. I think if i was buying an 80 and saw that it was bypassed i would understand that it is easier and works just as well. It's not about being lazy. It's about getting rid of a pointless pipe. It's funny that many land cruiser websites sell a phh bypass kit but i guess that they dont meet your stamp of approval either.
 
Not if you are replacing the head gasket as long as you are in there. ;)
That's the plkan if it ever goes. Remove the pipe and the egr crap. But I'm lucky. 224000 and head gasket is fine.
 
Or you can waste 5 hours trying to out a small 2 inch hose on. And I didn't "smash" it you can literally bend it over one inch with your hand and the bypass hose can pass right by it. Or you can remove it. That is, if you can get it off. Luckily I didn't ask for your stamp of approval on my pesky heater hose. I think if i was buying an 80 and saw that it was bypassed i would understand that it is easier and works just as well. It's not about being lazy. It's about getting rid of a pointless pipe. It's funny that many land cruiser websites sell a phh bypass kit but i guess that they dont meet your stamp of approval either.
Whatever you say. I don't think it's that hard to remove the pipe, nor do I think the pipe is necessary. It takes five minutes to get the pipe off with the method I described.

If someone asked me how to do the job, I wouldn't tell them to leave the old pipe on there. That's just me though. As long as you are keeping your junk on the road, it's just fine by me. I am a notary though, so if you require a seal, I can provide one.
 
Regardless of what you do with the pipe (bend it a little or break it off as @Red Merle suggested) bypassing it is much easier. I will try @Red Merle method because it honestly does look weird having that pipe still in place and it is worthless in my opinion. I really never thought about wiggling it until the ear broke off. I tried getting the bolt out and said screw it. The one thing I will say about the 1fz fe is that there are quite a few things in hard to reach places. I always had 40s before this and they are so easy to get to everything to work on in comparison.
 
As for the bypass kits, I guess if you have deleted the EGR and the metal pipe, there isn't any thing wrong with it. However, if the EGR and that hot pipe are still rolling, having the hard pipe for the PHH starts to make more sense.
 
Regardless of what you do with the pipe (bend it a little or break it off as @Red Merle suggested) bypassing it is much easier. I will try @Red Merle method because it honestly does look weird having that pipe still in place and it is worthless in my opinion. I really never thought about wiggling it until the ear broke off. I tried getting the bolt out and said screw it. The one thing I will say about the 1fz fe is that there are quite a few things in hard to reach places. I always had 40s before this and they are so easy to get to everything to work on in comparison.
There are work arounds for most of the tough stuff to get to on an 80. More extensions seem to really come in handy for some of the toughies.
 
As for the bypass kits, I guess if you have deleted the EGR and the metal pipe, there isn't any thing wrong with it. However, if the EGR and that hot pipe are still rolling, having the hard pipe for the PHH starts to make more sense.
I would love to delete the egr but again it has two bolts on the back of the head that can't be reached.
 
This thread is out of control....
 
Oh, dude. It's ridiculously easy to delete the EGR on a '93 or '94 by just stuffing a jumper wire in the wire harness that it links to and route the hoses back upon themselves. It's kinda mind blowing how much of a difference it makes. It eliminates at least three things that kill 80s altogether and many would argue that it mitigates the cause of the head gasket failure. It's so strange to be able to put your finger on that pipe and feel nothing. That f-er used to get hot AF.
 
Oh, dude. It's ridiculously easy to delete the EGR on a '93 or '94 by just stuffing a jumper wire in the wire harness that it links to and route the hoses back upon themselves. It's kinda mind blowing how much of a difference it makes. It eliminates at least three things that kill 80s altogether and many would argue that it mitigates the cause of the head gasket failure. It's so strange to be able to put your finger on that pipe and feel nothing. That f-er used to get hot AF.
I already did that. But I wanted to get rid of the pipe too. But I'm not pulling the head just for that. I could cap the pipe I guess but i figured I would wait and see if the hg ever goes and do it then.
 

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