- Thread starter
- #161
Yes sir! They made it custom, the owner is a good friend/ neighbor of mine so if you are interested in one they can use my rig as a template!
Builds The start of a never ending build, new 80 owner
- Thread starter Apounder
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Yes sir! They made it custom, the owner is a good friend/ neighbor of mine so if you are interested in one they can use my rig as a template!
- Thread starter
- #162
Sorry for late reply, the truss is a chopped up tg one, and I actually am not using the hitch pin mod, I used it about a year ago but kept blowing up bushings, I have since switched to the slee high flex rubber bushings which has helped a lot!
@strictlyRUM & I want to see a pic of your handy work with those control arm drop brackets you made. I am still curious of correcting caster that way. Did the Slee high flex bushings free up some flex & how do they feel?
Your not just correcting castor. You are putting the control arm back in its normal orientation. It's not already in a 30% droop. So you actually will gain downtravel. Your up travel should not be affected because it is usually limited by bump stops or tire clearance. Castor is just a byproduct of correcting the angle of the control arms. Don't forget the change of moment on the axle from the increased angle.
sweet deal, i want one but i got a few things to take care of, like re-gear and selling my slee shortbus and re-doing the steering on my truck. then id be ready for a road trip out to pick one up.
Anyways your rif is looking awesome, cant wait till i get my 5.29's and 37's on my rig...one day ill be able to swing 40s though!
2fpower
SILVER Star
Just found your thread. WOW. just WOW.
Did you find that the hex floormats helped with the heat off the floor?
Did you find that the hex floormats helped with the heat off the floor?
- Thread starter
- #168
Yes sir! Along with the Bedliner. Thank you! Idk why my notifications are not working:/ but highly recommend the hex mats.
- Thread starter
- #169
Ignore the broken taillight lol, removed about 3inches from the rear rockers to prep for custom rear tube bumper which is currently being picked away at as time allows, will be super high clearance with taillight protection of course
hey anyone got a passenger side rear taillight they will sell me?
Also got a little flexy testing out the new rear sway bar extended links.
hey anyone got a passenger side rear taillight they will sell me? Also got a little flexy testing out the new rear sway bar extended links.
I'm impressed with the amount of front flex you get with the stock arms.
- Thread starter
- #171
Thank you! With some fine tuning and heavy ass tires they seem to work nicely, the problem becomes retaining the coils without having a huge lift.
Do you still have your 2.5" plus MT 2" spacers. Thats about 22" of free height on the coils... You really haven't gone into much detail & tricks of your suspension. I do believe you put on some long Blistins etc. I'm still on the hunt to get more flex out of the front. Would you care to share your tricks with us? I went back through most of your thread & I've seen silver coils & black ones. I did read about 4 " OME competition coils. What have you ended up with?
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richardlillard1
SILVER Star
More or easier? Because there's a big difference between the two.
More? Longer shocks.
Easier? There's a multitude of ways to achieve this, so it depends on what compromises you want to make.
- Thread starter
- #174
Sorry for the confusion! Let me clarify my current setup which I believe is the result of a lot of testing and throwing money around.. I am very happy with how it works now and will be sticking with this setup for sometime. Only change soon to come is wider offset wheels, rear bumper, and currie anti rock sway bar for the rear. Right now I have just 5in OME competition springs in the front with no spacers, and 4in competition springs in the rear with no spacers. Problem with spring spacers is they do not compress, resulting in a loss of up travel. My front control arms are lowered 2inches, I also have slee high flex rubber caster bushings in the front which help a lot giving that extra little twist in the radius arm allowing it to drop. Also helps suck up a little vibration on gravel roads
I am running 14in travel bilstein 5165s with the stiffest valving. Personally I would still like a stiffer shock in the same length and probably in a 2.5 instead of a 2.0. They are hoop-hoop shocks so I modified the mounting and in doing so I was able to move the top mounting point of the front and rear about 1.5in. I have very little up travel in the shocks which is perfect for my setup because the 40s even with cut fenders cannot move upward very much. If you have anymore questions please let me know! I am happy to answer. And I just recently went to a rear sway bar due to too much rear flex making for tippy sketchy crawling, a balanced stable flex front to rear is a less tight anus.
Have you removed the front swaybar?
- Thread starter
- #176
Loooong ago, last thing a radius arm setup needs in my opinion even for road handling.
Thanks Apounder. 5" front 4" back competition coils w/ 14" hooped shocks, 2" lowered control arms & rear sway bar no front. Very cool.
I'm finding that folks with the stiffer coils do well without the front sway bar. In your case the comp. coils are even stiffer than J springs... so I have read. I believe the rear anti sway is crucial on & off road. I am very eager to see your rear anti rock sway bar install.
Had more questions:
When you dropped your control arms did you push the axle forward any?
How far do your coils drop out & what have you done to retain them?
I'm finding that folks with the stiffer coils do well without the front sway bar. In your case the comp. coils are even stiffer than J springs... so I have read. I believe the rear anti sway is crucial on & off road. I am very eager to see your rear anti rock sway bar install.
Had more questions:
When you dropped your control arms did you push the axle forward any?
How far do your coils drop out & what have you done to retain them?
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- Thread starter
- #178
Did not push the axle forward due to keeping the factory geometry of the panhard etc. the front coils will drop out of the top hat about an inch at full droop, and about the same in the rear. The rear springs I made a simple strap out of 1/4 steel strap and bolted the bottoms to the axle, as for the front coils, they have about a 2inch weld to the axle to keep them from unseating and backing out, was having some issues with them backing out over rocky terrain so the temporary solution is a small weld, which does not seem to have any ill side effects at this point!
Luv it!
The top of that tire is allmost out of the fenderwell...
Now it's SHOWTIME.
Let's see some video action.
Have you name that thing?
The Jolly Green Giant or Green Thing...
The top of that tire is allmost out of the fenderwell...
Now it's SHOWTIME.
Let's see some video action.
Have you name that thing?
The Jolly Green Giant or Green Thing...
