Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (1 Viewer)

[Tigris]

Aren't there 3 venting lines on the 75 also? (not 100% sure on 70 series again but on 40 there are 3)

As I said before, diesels without return lines can be found, but it is not ideal as circulating fuel within the IP has benefits that are not easily dismissed.

[On your oil filter/brake line potential conflict]

These two do look too cozy for my taste so I would do one of the following IIWY:

1. Either install a suitable banjo fitting on the brake line to reduce its profile or...

2. Install an oil filter relocation kit. This has some advantages such as: better/easier filter location, access to potentially better filter types, a convenient site for an oil pressure/temp sensor, and potentially a tapping point for a discreet front mounted oil cooler (an almost always worthy upgrade).

Cheers!

 

[coldtaco]

My HJ75 doesn’t have a fuel return. When I installed the 12HT I T’d the return into the supply. Some day when I drop the front tank I will see about adding a return there.

 

[OGBeno]

Fuel tank is still available. And it has a vent and return fittings.

 

[theglobb]

Normally you can get bicycle control cables at walmart and you can get aluminum crimp sleeves from a tackle shop to crimp and make your control cable. At least that would be my first go to.

On the fuel line return. When I put the 4bt in my 71 chevy it did not have a fuel return line so I ran the fuel return line back to the fuel supply line in a T connector between the tank and lift pump. It worked. Normally the fuel return goes to the tank. The T worked in my situation with no issue. Perhaps someone else will chime in here with why this simple easy solution won't work.

Sweet, for how simple it is I would have never thought about just simply putting a T fitting in, same goes for the bike control cables!

McMaster Carr apparently offers cable making service.
McMaster

As the engine runs and rumbles, will oil filter bash your brake line?

Sweet, might have to play around with it and see what I could pull off.

Good progress man!

My 2¢ on fuel line return:

I don't know for certain, but I strongly believe that your troopy has/had a fuel return line. Vehicles without return lines exist, using a 'deadhead' fueling regime, but a deadhead system is highly unlikely to be found on a diesel engine since having a fuel like diesel circulating in and out of the injection pump is simply crucial due to the diesel's lubricating and cooling properties.

if I found myself lying under say, an unfamiliar truck trying to locate a return fuel line, I would first locate the most optimum cross section between the engine and the tank(s) (from a visual stand point, where I can see any and all traversing lines across the entire width of the vehicle) and look/feel everything by hand until I find my answer. Lines could be tucked away above something else like other lines, sleeves and chassis rails. I hope this makes sense.

Thats exactly what I was thinking, no way it couldn't have a return line... however I crawled under the troopy for a long time today feeling around everything underneath and there is NONE.

I'm not sure for the BJ75, things can evolve, but on BJ4* there are no fuel return line AFAIK.
I think it depends of the type of fuel pump that is used by the engine (and a same engine can be paired with multiple types of fuel pump depending of application).

So if your Isuzu engine had a fuel return line you probably should find a way to add one.
The cleanest way would probably be to source the tank and plumbing from a petrol 75 that has the fuel return, but mostlikely expensive and timely. Second option you create the plumbing yourself and use a venting outlet as a fuel return inlet on your tank.

you are correct, expensive is my main concern, time is just kinda annoying. Mostly just pricing, trying to do this swap the best way I possibly can but also save as much money as possible, a hard mix.

Bring it down to Ocracoke when you get it going! Stoked for you.

100% we are planning a trip up to OBX as a test run, also to Boone and back aswell.

Is the 4 runner 22re/5speed?

What a great find!

YES! the classic combo

[On your oil filter/brake line potential conflict]

These two do look too cozy for my taste so I would do one of the following IIWY:

1. Either install a suitable banjo fitting on the brake line to reduce its profile or...

2. Install an oil filter relocation kit. This has some advantages such as: better/easier filter location, access to potentially better filter types, a convenient site for an oil pressure/temp sensor, and potentially a tapping point for a discreet front mounted oil cooler (an almost always worthy upgrade).

Cheers!

Yes, thank you to you and everyone else on my thread for always putting common sense back into the picture for me. I'll see if I can bend the line a bit more without risking much, if not then a banjo. I like how the oil filters are at right now, although you are very right about all the possible benefits. Again, money...

My HJ75 doesn’t have a fuel return. When I installed the 12HT I T’d the return into the supply. Some day when I drop the front tank I will see about adding a return there.

good to know! I think my plan right now just for cost savings alone will be a T fitting. Appreciate y'all


Dropped my radiator off at a shop today, hopefully they will get back to me within a week or so on if the radiator withstands the pressure test and that they cleaned it out.

 

[gilmorneau]

Pretty sure early 3B with inline pump = no return line (like yours).
Later 3BII (from 8/88 on) with rotary pump = does have return line.
You're gonna need to fabricate something.

 

[Felde]

Pretty sure early 3B with inline pump = no return line (like yours).
Later 3BII (from 8/88 on) with rotary pump = does have return line.
You're gonna need to fabricate something.

Second that. (Sorry for being late to the party, I'm out getting my BJ73 dirty).
My 1985 3b with inline IP has no return line.
And the original fuel tank suction assey has no return line inlet, unfortunately.
But as OGBeno stated: The new suction assy has a return line inlet. Would probably be the cleanest way. (And as the suction assy is notorious for rust at the bend, it's probably worth replacing anyway)
Great job Keep it up.
Cheers Ralf

 

[theglobb]

Progress!! Did lots of planning today for everything moving forward.I got the radiator pressure tested and cleaned out at a local shop. It passed and didn’t have much crap in it they said. Got the radiator mounted in, my dad is gonna work on making a skid plate for it tomorrow.

We have planned out the whole intake system into the factory air filter housing, and have moved the battery. The air filter will be pulling air from the inner fender, just like any modern 4Runner or whatever other cars do that.

Still need to figure out a throttle cable, I searched for a while and found the part number but it is available NOWHERE online. I’m planning on pulling out the throttle cable and seeing how it all connects. If it matches well enough with cables from old Toyota pickups I’ll just rip one out of the junkyard.

Because the radiator is so tall I’m gonna have to figure out another way to mount the steering stabilizer. Planning on figuring that all out once the troopy is driving around and moving on it’s own, priorities.

 

[svsisu]

FWIW I have no steering stabilizer or front sway bar and my troopy handles great at HWY speeds. I don't know what all the PO did to get the front end so dialed in, but my point is there are other ways to work around that problem besides complicated mounting geometry.

Looking good and you guys are crushing it.

 

[robmobile73]

Progress!! Did lots of planning today for everything moving forward.I got the radiator pressure tested and cleaned out at a local shop. It passed and didn’t have much crap in it they said. Got the radiator mounted in, my dad is gonna work on making a skid plate for it tomorrow.

We have planned out the whole intake system into the factory air filter housing, and have moved the battery. The air filter will be pulling air from the inner fender, just like any modern 4Runner or whatever other cars do that.

Still need to figure out a throttle cable, I searched for a while and found the part number but it is available NOWHERE online. I’m planning on pulling out the throttle cable and seeing how it all connects. If it matches well enough with cables from old Toyota pickups I’ll just rip one out of the junkyard.

Because the radiator is so tall I’m gonna have to figure out another way to mount the steering stabilizer. Planning on figuring that all out once the troopy is driving around and moving on it’s own, priorities.

View attachment 3334533View attachment 3334534View attachment 3334535View attachment 3334541

I drove my 71 chevy with 4BT for over a year using steel wire fishing leader and aluminum crimp sleeves for a throttle cable between my pedal and the IP with no issue..... You will do better and it will look like NASA engineers did it in comparison. Don't overthink it. Just keep moving and you'll get there.

 

[joekatana]

FWIW I have no steering stabilizer or front sway bar and my troopy handles great at HWY speeds. I don't know what all the PO did to get the front end so dialed in, but my point is there are other ways to work around that problem besides complicated mounting geometry.

Looking good and you guys are crushing it.

Radflo shocks on yours are absolutely amazing , you sure there is no steering damper on it ?

 

[svsisu]

Yep, no stabilizer. It's hard to believe how nice the ride is with those Radflo shocks.

 

[coldtaco]

Summit racing sells universal throttle cables. That what I ended up doing with my 12HT swap

 

[theglobb]

Well it's close... We have pulled the engine out for the last time in order to put the flywheel on, pilot bearing in, rear main seal, etc. Then it goes back in for the last time for a while, hopefully. I have a throttle cable arriving on Monday, its from an 80 series, looks like the same roughly mounting points in the cab and the same end that will fit the Isuzu just like the 3B throttle cable did.

I'm pretty excited and also scared. Within the next week or so I'll find out if a years ordeal of work will pay off or if we have screwed something up. I have full confidence in most everything other than the whole clutch area. Will the fork work? Will it engage at the proper spot? Will the input shaft go in the pilot bearing with no drama or will it even be the right size?

Fuel return line T'd into the feed. Later down the line I will get a proper system in place, drop the tank, drill and weld a bung on for a real return line, etc etc

Here's how it sits now

Also, does anyone know where to find these kind of hose clamps or screws for the clamps? Would like to keep these as I like them, until they get all rusty and then tear apart, but well maintained I'm a fan.

After pulling and putting in this engine 20 times now we are quite good at it lol

 

[jblueridge]

Online, just google double wire hose clamp.
McMaster Carr sells a version named double-ring hose clamp.

 

[RHINO]

those clamps are also factory toyota

man its getting close,,, you must be so excited!!!! i think you are going to absolutely love that engine, they are sooooo good.

 

[theglobb]

Engine out, having to do all this work and plan around various graduations and parties.

I neglected my flywheel quite a bit over the past 9 months of the engine being out of the box truck, cleaned up pretty nice with an orbital sander. I see 2 very small heat cracks in the flywheel but after sanding it as even as humanly possible for 30 minutes I can barely feel them with my fingernail. Really not too worried at all.

Painted the super rusty turbo and downpipe, I wanted to take the exhaust manifold off to have it sandblasted but the bolts are just non-existent now... this engine sat out in between the cab and bed of the truck for 40ish years so its had plenty of time to fuse everything on the side of the manifold to become one.

After swapping the pulley over from the Isuzu's alternator onto the 3B's alternator the belts line up pretty much perfectly, so do the oil feed and drain from the vacuum pump on the back.

Got a pilot bearing for a 1HZ in from @cruiseroutfit, estimated to be here on Tuesday and got here Friday night!!! The first time the USPS has not failed me haha. The ID of 12mm is perfect for the H55f input shaft and OD of 40mm should be perfect for the 4BD1T, and it's a name brand bearing! Not some ebay special "kustom" bearing

 

[theglobb]

Meanwhile... 1 year ago today, the 3B's crankshaft exploded. I would have NEVER guessed 1 year later that I'd had bought a box truck in Kentucky, limped it home, and am closing up on my first non-factory engine swap. Crazy how much can happen in a year

 

[theglobb]

More progress! The engine is in! It really wasn't as hard as I thought it would be to get all lined up with the splines and into the small 12mm hole of the pilot bearing Stuff lines up pretty well drivetrain-wise, dare I say easier to install than the 3B was.

Had to grind out a small amount of the inner part of the flywheel due to the pilot bearing sticking out ever so slightly... fits perfectly other than that.

ISSUES... as always 2 steps forward, 4 steps backwards lol.

Well I ordered a throwout bearing that should have been the exact same as the old one... NOPE totally different. Half of that is my fault for not checking the fitment before hand but also this just isn't the right bearing at all...

and the BIGGEST issue as of right now is the starter, both of them. The 12V starter only shoots out but doesn't spin. When I parked the truck a year ago it worked flawlessly, then when testing my brand new 24v starter it does the exact same thing... Am I doing something wrong or forgetting to hook up something?? I mean seriously what are the odds of a perfectly fine one failing like that whole not being used and a BRAND NEW one doing the same exact thing???


Would have loved to start it today but neither starter engages any advice is always appreciated

 

[AirheadNut]

I could be mistaken, but it seems like there isn't a solid enough connection to the solenoid to fully engage the contacts inside that provide power to the motor. Maybe try using a piece of wire or another jumper cable to get good contact from the main positive to the solenoid stud. If that doesn't work I would suggest taking the solenoid cap off and checking the copper contacts inside; they may have gotten corroded from sitting over the winter.

 

[FJBen]

Like @AirheadNut alluded to, my guess is a ground/contact issue as well.

Any cheap Auto store should have a bench tester with a decent setup to make sure it spins.