If you’ve never replaced your rear control arms.. I just did any my clunk went away
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread
- Thread starter Kigiin
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Which one?
What was signs it was bad, other than clunk?
Any pictures/videos to show it was bad?
Replaced all four of them. They were cracked and hard as rocks. The rear end feels much tighter now
Couvi
SILVER Star
Id like to know as well.
Lowers were SPCs, uppers were OEM. Truck feels like new in the rear end again. For the uppers, I drove the truck up on ramps and it made changing them out way easier.
I just greased the bejezus out of the driveshaft and it’s a noticeable difference. I was skeptical.
My only issue was the front driveshaft didn’t really like passing the old grease and actually built up enough pressure to squirt it back out the zerk. Then I also noticed instead of coming out Around the driveshaft seal it appeared to be coming out on the ujoint side.
I drove it around a bit and didn’t get any vibrations up to 50mph. When I got home I smelled something burning but figured it was some extra slung grease on the cat, and it appears I was right.
Should I try and hit that front shaft again? Wait till next oil change?
My only issue was the front driveshaft didn’t really like passing the old grease and actually built up enough pressure to squirt it back out the zerk. Then I also noticed instead of coming out Around the driveshaft seal it appeared to be coming out on the ujoint side.
I drove it around a bit and didn’t get any vibrations up to 50mph. When I got home I smelled something burning but figured it was some extra slung grease on the cat, and it appears I was right.
Should I try and hit that front shaft again? Wait till next oil change?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Wait until next oil change. Unless you get clunk earlier.
What you saw coming from what appeared to be U-joint, while lubing slide yoke. Was likely a plate in back of yoke. You built so much pressure pumping in grease, it warp the plate. Don't worry about it.
From now on, only pump grease in slide yokes (front and rear), until you see yoke just begin to extend. While doing rear, make sure weight on wheels and in a neutral position if you've ACH.
Pump grease in spiders (u-joints) until you see new grease come out.
Tip: Clean off grease zerk before connect grease gun. If dirt gets in from being left on tip, it contaminates and may jam zerk so grease comes out tip.
What you saw coming from what appeared to be U-joint, while lubing slide yoke. Was likely a plate in back of yoke. You built so much pressure pumping in grease, it warp the plate. Don't worry about it.
From now on, only pump grease in slide yokes (front and rear), until you see yoke just begin to extend. While doing rear, make sure weight on wheels and in a neutral position if you've ACH.
Pump grease in spiders (u-joints) until you see new grease come out.
Tip: Clean off grease zerk before connect grease gun. If dirt gets in from being left on tip, it contaminates and may jam zerk so grease comes out tip.
Like I said, I had a little bit come out the slide yoke, but then it stopped and I moved on to other zerks. After doing the rear and seeing it push out the old grease as I expected (and pumping an unnumbered excessive amount) I went back to the front to see if I just didn’t do enough.
I got worried when it came out the back plate and just stopped. I didn’t get the snap crackle pop up there like I did in back.
I had an old 2 stoke boat that required a LOT of greasing so I’m familiar with the sights and sounds but this was my first time doing anything on an automobile.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Toyota has changed the recommendation, to pump until first sign of extension of slide yoke. This is in the 200 series FSM. But this assume it's been properly serviced. On older rigs not properly serviced the seals are worn and grease passes easy. I'll pump near a halve of a tube in them, just to see extension. Well serviced with good seals, it is and art to get grease to pass without warping that back plate. I've learned this the hard way.
I say don't "worry" about warped back plate. Because Lexus shop would drill a small hole in that plate to reduce drive-line clunk on new vehicles. They found it released the pressure. Warping does the same thing!
The yokes case has a double seal. The inner seal protion angle in. So as we pump in grease, it locks the seal air tight onto the yokes shaft. More we pump the more pressure builds within.
I say don't "worry" about warped back plate. Because Lexus shop would drill a small hole in that plate to reduce drive-line clunk on new vehicles. They found it released the pressure. Warping does the same thing!
The yokes case has a double seal. The inner seal protion angle in. So as we pump in grease, it locks the seal air tight onto the yokes shaft. More we pump the more pressure builds within.
2001LC
SILVER Star
When I do pump so/to much I'm concerned or have vehicle up above a neutral stance. I pull the zerk to release pressure and drop vehicle to neutral stance or lower..
This under maintained seal passed grease easy when a #1 was used. I used # 1 in problem cases, the switch up to #2 NLGI.
This under maintained seal passed grease easy when a #1 was used. I used # 1 in problem cases, the switch up to #2 NLGI.
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Did you check the 5th arm? (Panhard) Just curious.
And what about the nuts they want you to replace?
I really want to do this to mine soon,
Haven't replaced the panhard. I replaced all the nuts and bolts for the control arms though. They're cheap
I have been fighting the clunk for a few months now. It's very apparent in two cases - R to D shift and hitting the accelerator above 25mph.
First did the usual greasing - definitely some change, but still massive clunks.
Then replaced the DS CV axle, as the splines were almost completely destroyed - this reduced the acceleration clunk, but still very noticable.
Next were new hub flanges. The old ones seemed 100% fine, but there was visible play between the tip of the CV axle and the flanges. Once replaced, that play was gone. Visually I couldn't tell that there was anything wrong with the old ones. This reduced the acceleration clunk some more, but still there. R to D clunk also seemed slightly softer or maybe that's just the placebo...
So the clunk is definitely an issue with multiple sources, where wear in tear in all sorts of places add up.
Next on my list - new rear control arm bushings, as most of mine seem shot. Gonna go with the 80 series bushings + larger bolt holes.
Might try differential bushings as well, although at least one of them seems to have been changed already.
First did the usual greasing - definitely some change, but still massive clunks.
Then replaced the DS CV axle, as the splines were almost completely destroyed - this reduced the acceleration clunk, but still very noticable.
Next were new hub flanges. The old ones seemed 100% fine, but there was visible play between the tip of the CV axle and the flanges. Once replaced, that play was gone. Visually I couldn't tell that there was anything wrong with the old ones. This reduced the acceleration clunk some more, but still there. R to D clunk also seemed slightly softer or maybe that's just the placebo...
So the clunk is definitely an issue with multiple sources, where wear in tear in all sorts of places add up.
Next on my list - new rear control arm bushings, as most of mine seem shot. Gonna go with the 80 series bushings + larger bolt holes.
Might try differential bushings as well, although at least one of them seems to have been changed already.
I just want to share my findings because this thread and specifically @2001LC 's list of the top 3 common things the clunk is caused by has helped me tremendously.
My clunk was from shifting from R to D or from D to R. I also have a thud when rolling back onto power if not feathered anywhere between 10-60mph.
I felt the thud in my feet through the dead pedal largely. I had new CV's installed recently (remans) so I was hoping it wasn't them being that the thud was seemingly coming from up front.
Per everyone's recommendation, I greased spider joints and slip yokes. This seemed to help a little but did not fix the issue.
It was between changing the differential bushings or hub flanges, and I went with new OEM flanges. This has completely fixed the thud that is coming from the front. Smooth as butter.
To help others diagnose, I noticed that when in reverse, rolling backwards, and shifting to D before a complete stop, my thunk was almost unnoticeable. Same thing when rolling forward, in a parking lot for example, and shifting to R before a complete stop. If you notice similar issues, maybe your thud is the same as mine was.
I still have a small bump that I now feel in my butt through the seat and I will regrease the joints and slip yokes at the rear. Otherwise, it could be rear control arms based on what others have said.
There's my experience with the clunk. Thanks to everyone on this thread for contributing.
My clunk was from shifting from R to D or from D to R. I also have a thud when rolling back onto power if not feathered anywhere between 10-60mph.
I felt the thud in my feet through the dead pedal largely. I had new CV's installed recently (remans) so I was hoping it wasn't them being that the thud was seemingly coming from up front.
Per everyone's recommendation, I greased spider joints and slip yokes. This seemed to help a little but did not fix the issue.
It was between changing the differential bushings or hub flanges, and I went with new OEM flanges. This has completely fixed the thud that is coming from the front. Smooth as butter.
To help others diagnose, I noticed that when in reverse, rolling backwards, and shifting to D before a complete stop, my thunk was almost unnoticeable. Same thing when rolling forward, in a parking lot for example, and shifting to R before a complete stop. If you notice similar issues, maybe your thud is the same as mine was.
I still have a small bump that I now feel in my butt through the seat and I will regrease the joints and slip yokes at the rear. Otherwise, it could be rear control arms based on what others have said.
There's my experience with the clunk. Thanks to everyone on this thread for contributing.
Maybe strange...maybe not...but had a driveline clunk when accelerating or stopping just like these classic posts, but today I let someone drive the truck and didn’t feel or hear anything from the passenger seat. Is it possible it’s some slight play in the drivers seat? If so...how might that be tightened up or checked? Might just be that the passenger seat has better padding since it hasn’t had as much use the drivers seat.
Sounds like this may be my culprit as well, same symptoms. Have gotten good about rolling slowly into the gear change.
The clunk is exaggerated greatly when in Low, really feel it slam unless I feather the accelerator.
I have had the driveshafts taken apart,cleaned, greased. Thought I noticed a difference but think it was all in my end.All control arms and bushing are good but the clunk, more like a slam is noticeable in the front end.
Think my next focus will be from the front diff and out, checking CVs and hubs for play. Really want the clunk to go away and the truck would be minty.
Kinda funny you mention this, I thought the same thing when riding in passenger. I think it may be in my head though. Check your seats by just grabbing em and giving em a good wiggle back and forth, if you hear the clunk get on the seat rails and tighten em up. That would be a nice easy fix.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So I have the clunk and believe I have narrowed it down to needing new hub flanges and the upper cushion on the front diff bushing.
See videos attached for how I came to this conclusion. I will grease my u-joints and shafts tonight but I feel no play in driveshafts and they look well greased. Since this truck is new to me I am just going through the baselining stuff as I learn more.
Diff bushing clunk.
PS axle clunk
DS axle clunk
98 LC Clunk
See videos attached for how I came to this conclusion. I will grease my u-joints and shafts tonight but I feel no play in driveshafts and they look well greased. Since this truck is new to me I am just going through the baselining stuff as I learn more.
Diff bushing clunk.
PS axle clunk
DS axle clunk
98 LC Clunk
Great vid, super helpful. I am going to shift my attention this way as well.
>>It seems like the on-going concept of getting the drive shaft lubed up properly is not really helping solve anyone's problem.
