The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

[craaaazzy]

Posting this here as greasing removes my clunking but have a question...

I had greased the slip yokes yesterday and noticed grease coming out of the seals on each yoke after driving it. I'll have to keep an eye out on this but I do have an issue with the car smelling like atf after driving which I think is because of this. I didn't see anything about people replacing driveshaft seals. one post in the 80's section I was reading said they just deal w/ the slinging grease and to just grease more frequently. is this the same thought process for the 100's?

 

[gregnash]

There really aren't any seals to speak of that I have read. Basically you are greasing the joints to ensure they slide along one another well. If the slip yoke and u-joints are tight and have no play then there should not be grease slinging out to the point that they are dry on a regular basis.. Probably something to add to the list of PM that you do during a normal oil change (or every other).

 

[2001LC]

When lubing the spider joints (aka universal joints), of aft & forward propeller shaft (aka drive shaft), continue pumping in new grease until it's seen flowing out. The old grease is seen coming out first, if spiders aren't dry. Then we're left with old and new grease that needs wiped out. If not wiped, it sling out as we drive, which is just fine. The buildup of grease that has slung out onto frame is a great clue of proper PM.

The slide yokes of the propeller shaft are grease a little different. Rather than go into the various techniques for doing this. I'll just state Toyota most recent advice on this. Pump in new grease until slide yoke begins to extend and stop pumping.

If we keep pump in grease the yoke keeps expanding, thus press on the transfer case and differential. It's import to grease with vehicle in a neutral stance. If vehicle raised with AHC, on jack stands or lift with wheels dangling. This extends slide yoke of propeller shaft(s). Then as we lower vehicle the pressure in slide yoke builds. This can be damaging if seals of slide yoke are in good condition and not worn out.

Seals are a double seal with outer lip pointed out and inner lip point in. That inner lip tightens as grease pump in pressing on it. This hydro locks in the air and grease inside cavity building pressure.

If seal are worn out from not lubing every 5 to 10K miles, the grease will pass easily. Then it doesn't matter if you pump grease all day long. Yoke will not extend much, nor build excessive pressure inside the side yoke. So not all bad, if seals are shot.

The bad, if seals are worn out. The slide yokes will need more frequent lubing. The clunk will come back very soon after lubing, as grease just keeps pumping out.

May 2005-Aug 2007. (PN may vary by year)
37305-60030 COVER SUB-ASSY, FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT SLIDING SHAFT DUST
37305-60030 COVER SUB-ASSY, REAR PROPELLER SHAFT SLIDING SHAFT DUST

If the seals are bad, it's very likely the splines of the slide yoke and propeller shaft are warn. So replacement of propeller shaft may be best course.

Personally I'd not worry about it. Unless a full restore project and the play in yoke is very apparent. Then I'd consider replacement.

 

[gregnash]

@2001LC so basically when greasing the driveshafts you want the truck on the ground and if AHC is present, it should be in the neutral position. Grease should only be added until the slip yoke is seen to start moving. Is that correct?

The U-Joints should be greased enough to push out old grease within joint and until new grease is seen coming out. Is that correct?

 

[gregnash]

@2001LC so basically when greasing the driveshafts you want the truck on the ground and if AHC is present, it should be in the neutral position. Grease should only be added until the slip yoke is seen to start moving. Is that correct?

The U-Joints should be greased enough to push out old grease within joint and until new grease is seen coming out. Is that correct?

Ended up getting under the truck last night and doing this. Slip yokes both took at least a dozen pumps before the shaft moved. Once I saw the shaft move a bit, I gave it one more pump and that was it. The U-joints at each of the diffs (front and rear) both took a handful of pumps to get new grease coming out, but nothing major. So yokes were definitely dry and u-joints were semi dry.
Problem I had is that the head on my grease gun would not latch onto the u-joints at the center diff. It would go on but not "latch" all the way so as soon as I pumped the grease either came out the side of the head or popped the head off. Mind you I scrubbed the zerks with a toothbrush and cleaned them with a pick prior so I would not get the head of the gun dirty. Not sure why this was fighting me.

 

[Mbchance]

Ended up getting under the truck last night and doing this. Slip yokes both took at least a dozen pumps before the shaft moved. Once I saw the shaft move a bit, I gave it one more pump and that was it. The U-joints at each of the diffs (front and rear) both took a handful of pumps to get new grease coming out, but nothing major. So yokes were definitely dry and u-joints were semi dry.
Problem I had is that the head on my grease gun would not latch onto the u-joints at the center diff. It would go on but not "latch" all the way so as soon as I pumped the grease either came out the side of the head or popped the head off. Mind you I scrubbed the zerks with a toothbrush and cleaned them with a pick prior so I would not get the head of the gun dirty. Not sure why this was fighting me.

Could be a different sized zerk fitting, espically if those u-joints had been replaced. One thing that helped me was loosening the head on my grease gun nozzle so that it could easily slip over the zerk, then I would snug the tip back up and pump away. Had a hell of a time getting it off a few times though. I think a quick connect adapter will be a future purchase.

 

[gregnash]

Well I know the rear driveshaft one that the head was just a bit to large to easily fit in the opening to allow me to get in there properly. I need to almost jack up the rear at the axle to see if I can compress the drive shaft enough to open up the u-joint. Will also get in there with some break cleaner to do a better job of cleaning. And honestly I don't know if the head on my grease gun is adjustable so that could be, not something I thought about. It is just a cheap-o one from C-A-L Ranch (like a Tractor Supply).

 

[AlabamaLX]

Well I know the rear driveshaft one that the head was just a bit to large to easily fit in the opening to allow me to get in there properly. I need to almost jack up the rear at the axle to see if I can compress the drive shaft enough to open up the u-joint. Will also get in there with some break cleaner to do a better job of cleaning. And honestly I don't know if the head on my grease gun is adjustable so that could be, not something I thought about. It is just a cheap-o one from C-A-L Ranch (like a Tractor Supply).

I had the same problem. I tried replacing the head of the grease gun with the smallest outside diameter head I could find, didn't work.

I did get a needlepoint coupler to work.

 

[gregnash]

I had the same problem. I tried replacing the head of the grease gun with the smallest head I could find, didn't work.

I did get a needlepoint coupler to work.

View attachment 2177448

Huh interesting... wonder why it won't fit? Do you have a lift? My truck does, believe its a 1.5" lift so could be changing the angle of the driveshaft slightly enough to cause that issue.

 

[AlabamaLX]

Huh interesting... wonder why it won't fit? Do you have a lift? My truck does, believe its a 1.5" lift so could be changing the angle of the driveshaft slightly enough to cause that issue.

No lift on mine.

The fitting is at a slight enough angle that I can't get it to lock on the head.

 

[2001LC]

I agree with @gregnash regardless of lift. I find most (all I have) will fit. I just turn propeller shaft and come in from the side. Or what every angle opens the spider up wide enough. If your guns greasing tip worked on others, it should work on all.

 

[prwillard2]

I've been dealing with a serious "thunk" for a while and was finally was able to get under my truck and grease my universal joints and my slip yoke.

Universal joints took 3 or 4 pumps before I started to see the old grease coming out.

My slip yoke took MORE THAN 50 pumps to start moving. I'm going to assume my seals are shot. What is my next step to fix these seals?

 

[geanes]

I've been dealing with a serious "thunk" for a while and was finally was able to get under my truck and grease my universal joints and my slip yoke.

Universal joints took 3 or 4 pumps before I started to see the old grease coming out.

My slip yoke took MORE THAN 50 pumps to start moving. I'm going to assume my seals are shot. What is my next step to fix these seals?

I'd almost say just buy a new drive shaft. If that slip yoke was run that dry for that long, who knows how much wear is present. I replaced my tail shaft recently and my truck rides like a new vehicle. By far the best $365 I've spent. Bonus: didn't have to install the u-joints as they come pre-installed and pre-greased.

 

[prwillard2]

I'd almost say just buy a new drive shaft. If that slip yoke was run that dry for that long, who knows how much wear is present. I replaced my tail shaft recently and my truck rides like a new vehicle. By far the best $365 I've spent. Bonus: didn't have to install the u-joints as they come pre-installed and pre-greased.

So uh... I've got no idea how to do that. Where do I find a new drive shaft? Is it just a bolt in and go?

 

[gregnash]

So uh... I've got no idea how to do that. Where do I find a new drive shaft? Is it just a bolt in and go?

Probably going to be only available from Mr. T. Use a site like Partsouq.com to determine the proper p/n (using your VIN) and go from there. Purchase new bolts to connect the drive shafts to the center diff and front/rear differential pinions. All that can be found on the site. From there it should not be all the difficult for you to complete on your own, really just a remove and replace. There are some tricks that maybe @2001LC can share to ensure they are properly installed and in phase.

 

[2001LC]

I've been dealing with a serious "thunk" for a while and was finally was able to get under my truck and grease my universal joints and my slip yoke.

Universal joints took 3 or 4 pumps before I started to see the old grease coming out.

My slip yoke took MORE THAN 50 pumps to start moving. I'm going to assume my seals are shot. What is my next step to fix these seals?

Drive and re-lube a few times. See how it goes!

I've seen propeller shaft slide yokes seals that were shot, only a few times. Grease will pass shot seals very easy. Whats does that mean; you may need to re grease more often than 5K miles.

If you can feel any rotational play between slide yoke and propeller shaft. Than the splines are worn out. In this case, I'd replace the propeller shaft assembly.

When we remove a propeller shaft we mark it. So it can be re-installed in same oration at each end (all points).

 

[gregnash]

I plan to grease my driveshafts every oil change the first year of ownership. Unfortunately, the degree of neglected that happened to this truck is pretty high (seems like maybe the last 10-15yrs it was mainly a driveway ornament in hot climates) so it is worth it to keep her greased up and attack some of these easier to reach issues.

 

[shiretowndown]

So if a guy was going to begin doing his own driveline lubrication what do you recommend for the following:

- Grease
- Grease Gun
- Additional Zerk Tips?

 

[gregnash]

So if a guy was going to begin doing his own driveline lubrication what do you recommend for the following:

- Grease
- Grease Gun
- Additional Zerk Tips?

Some suggestions above but get yourself a decent gun (not an HF one) that has a flexible hose. For additional tips get the Lincoln Needle linked above. That will allow you to get into the u-joints at the center diff. And then grease, well that is personal preference really but most seem to like either Mobil 1 red stuff. One thing about a "colored" grease like the Mobil 1 is that you can visibly see it pushing out the old stuff (most likely brownish colored like most every other grease). Gives you a good indication of how much grease you have coming out.

 

[geanes]

Some suggestions above but get yourself a decent gun (not an HF one) that has a flexible hose. For additional tips get the Lincoln Needle linked above. That will allow you to get into the u-joints at the center diff. And then grease, well that is personal preference really but most seem to like either Mobil 1 red stuff. One thing about a "colored" grease like the Mobil 1 is that you can visibly see it pushing out the old stuff (most likely brownish colored like most every other grease). Gives you a good indication of how much grease you have coming out.

Remember, the slip yoke will use different grease than the u-joints. The slip yoke needs Moly grease as it's application is in an environment where cycles of compression occur. Non-moly won't be compressible and can cause hydro lock of the slip yoke.