The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (3 Viewers)

[ClayGrizzly]

Hey @hankinid , is this the stuff you used? About to do this to mine to try and alleviate. Sta-Lube Extreme Pressure Moly-Graph Multi Purpose Grease?

SL3141 by CRC IND - Moly-Graph® Extreme Pressure Multi-Purpose Grease, 14 Wt Oz

 

[hankinid]

Hey @hankinid , is this the stuff you used? About to do this to mine to try and alleviate. Sta-Lube Extreme Pressure Moly-Graph Multi Purpose Grease?

SL3141 by CRC IND - Moly-Graph® Extreme Pressure Multi-Purpose Grease, 14 Wt Oz

That works well, as does Valvoline Synthetic. That said, I lube both drive shafts with every oil change, and that's around every 6-7K.

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

To honest I use mobile heavy duty grease it's blue never had issues.

 

[shiretowndown]

I'm no expert, but I've seen the topic come up multiple times and I know what the FSM says.

There seem to be differing opinions on the threads I've read and you'll see 2 extremes - either people claim you break the seal if you overgrease or you'll see people say the only way to know you have enough grease is to see it leak out. The people who claim overgreasing is bad say the best thing to do is remove the zerk and let the excess grease leak out that way.

See Too Much Grease in Drive Shaft? as an example.

See Mobil 1 synthetic grease nlgi no 2 as another example.

The FSM states the following (for 05 lx470) in the propeller shaft assembly section (PR-7):
HINT:
After installation, pump MP grease into each fitting with a grease gun until the grease begins to flow around
the oil seal.

I'll point out that under the FSM MA-10 for maintenance and lubricating the propeller shaft, it does not state that the grease should flow around the oil seal.

If we wanted to read into the FSM like it was the bible, I'd interpret that upon initial installation the grease should flow out but upon subsequent (normal) maintenance lubes, no need. It also doesn't warn in the FSM about overgreasing. Furthermore, I think everyone would agree that overgreasing the spider joints isn't a problem, just overgreasing the yoke is the debate...?

I love the exegesis of this FSM text

 

[blznlw355]

I am having a clunk/thump noise when turning right and accelerating. It's coming from the drivers side. It doesn't get any faster but gets louder. Any ideas??

 

[KFunk740]

My clunk can go away almost completely when its really cold/wet. What part would be affected by cold/moisture?

(Yeah, I've greased driveshaft and changed diff oils)

 

[geanes]

I am having a clunk/thump noise when turning right and accelerating. It's coming from the drivers side. It doesn't get any faster but gets louder. Any ideas??

Might look at the bushings on that side (anti-way bar, lower control arm, upper control arm, lower ball joint, upper ball joint, outer tie rod and even the support bushing for the front diff). All of those, if worn significantly, could lead to a "thunk" on that side of the vehicle.

 

[blznlw355]

Might look at the bushings on that side (anti-way bar, lower control arm, upper control arm, lower ball joint, upper ball joint, outer tie rod and even the support bushing for the front diff). All of those, if worn significantly, could lead to a "thunk" on that side of the vehicle.

Will do thanks!!

 

[geanes]

Will do thanks!!

Check the wheel bearings as well on that side. If you lift that side and then can "wobble" the wheel at all side to side, then the bearing preload could be off which would lead to a possible thunk as well.

 

[LETSROLLEM]

Check the wheel bearings as well on that side. If you lift that side and then can "wobble" the wheel at all side to side, then the bearing preload could be off which would lead to a possible thunk as well.

Hey @geanes, hello from a little further north up 35, DALLAS. I read through this entire thread last night. I can't remember whereabouts in this thread you posted your resolution by replacing the front diff support arm bushing, along with greasing and checking other worn parts. I have done everything except the rear upper and lower control arms, but that will be soon. I have greased the slip yokes with moly graph extreme pressure grease by Sta-lube. My question to you is, how difficult is it to replace the front diff support arm bushing? Is it done by simply supporting the front diff with a jack stand then removing the 3 bolts and pulling out the support arm? Also how hard is it getting the old bushing out and do you need a shop press to install the new one? Lastly, do you happen to know the part number or where you sourced your new one? I did the crow bar trick you posted and it definitely had some play, although not too extreme. Thanks for your insight on this. Be safe

 

[geanes]

Hey @geanes, hello from a little further north up 35, DALLAS. I read through this entire thread last night. I can't remember whereabouts in this thread you posted your resolution by replacing the front diff support arm bushing, along with greasing and checking other worn parts. I have done everything except the rear upper and lower control arms, but that will be soon. I have greased the slip yokes with moly graph extreme pressure grease by Sta-lube. My question to you is, how difficult is it to replace the front diff support arm bushing? Is it done by simply supporting the front diff with a jack stand then removing the 3 bolts and pulling out the support arm? Also how hard is it getting the old bushing out and do you need a shop press to install the new one? Lastly, do you happen to know the part number or where you sourced your new one? I did the crow bar trick you posted and it definitely had some play, although not too extreme. Thanks for your insight on this. Be safe

I followed this thread: 200K make over

Part# is 52380-60040. The bushing is captive in the assembly. So, all you need to do is support the diff itself (I used my floor jack and my bottle jack with the LandcruiserPhil adaptor) and then undo the bolts, remove the old support assembly/lollipop. Reassemble in reverse. The key is to make sure the front diff is supported. It is heavy.

 

[LETSROLLEM]

I followed this thread: 200K make over

Part# is 52380-60040. The bushing is captive in the assembly. So, all you need to do is support the diff itself (I used my floor jack and my bottle jack with the LandcruiserPhil adaptor) and then undo the bolts, remove the old support assembly/lollipop. Reassemble in reverse. The key is to make sure the front diff is supported. It is heavy.

Awesome man, thank you!

 

[LETSROLLEM]

I followed this thread: 200K make over

Part# is 52380-60040. The bushing is captive in the assembly. So, all you need to do is support the diff itself (I used my floor jack and my bottle jack with the LandcruiserPhil adaptor) and then undo the bolts, remove the old support assembly/lollipop. Reassemble in reverse. The key is to make sure the front diff is supported. It is heavy.

Sorry to bug you again. I recieved my new front diff support arm yesterday and I'm hoping to get it installed in the next couple of days. Do you happen to know the torque specs on the 3 bolts? I have searched and can't seem to find them. Thanks @geanes

 

[TranOverland]

I have this as well, had the shop grease it, but its still there. When the car first starts and the engine is cold, i usually don't hear it. it's only after I drive around a bit is when i hear the thunk. I may regrease it some more soon as I think my shop was a little conservative with the amount of grease to pump.

 

[KFunk740]

In the 100-series FB group, someone in the comments said that the slip yoke needs 'purged' when greasing. He said that after greasing, he removed the grease fitting, drove it around the block, and then replaced grease fitting.
I think he means that air needs purged out by flexing the slip yoke through its normal range of motion, and the removal of the grease fitting allows the air to get out and for the grease to fill in better.
I don't recall seeing this mentioned in this giant thread. Is that what we're doing wrong?

 

[geanes]

In the 100-series FB group, someone in the comments said that the slip yoke needs 'purged' when greasing. He said that after greasing, he removed the grease fitting, drove it around the block, and then replaced grease fitting.
I think he means that air needs purged out by flexing the slip yoke through its normal range of motion, and the removal of the grease fitting allows the air to get out and for the grease to fill in better.
I don't recall seeing this mentioned in this giant thread. Is that what we're doing wrong?

Incorrect on the assumption that it is air your purging. You need to purge the excess grease. Removing the zerk and driving a few blocks allows the yoke to "pump" out the excess grease.

You don't have to do this on the u-joints because there is are no compression forces. The slip yoke moves in and out which causes compression forces. Too much grease in the yoke could cause a blow out of the seals under compression....especially in pronounced flex scenarios such as off-camber, rutted trails.

 

[fooldall1]

I am having a clunk/thump noise when turning right and accelerating. It's coming from the drivers side. It doesn't get any faster but gets louder. Any ideas??

I didn't read every thread above, but it sounds like you may have a bad CV axle. Look for busted boots and grease in your wheelwell.

 

[TranOverland]

I have this. Greased the shafts but the thunk is still there. For the hell of it I pressed the center diff button and it went away. I thought diff locks don’t engage in hi? I drive a 2004.

 

[87warrior]

I have not tried to effectively eliminate the thunk my cruiser has, but over the last year I have accidentally almost eliminated it by replacing worn out parts.

The clunk changed with each new part, some did more than others. These were original parts and replaced between 290k and 310k miles.
- New Toyota front axles and flanges. This made the biggest difference.
- New Toyota front differential stopper bushing helped quiet the clunk quite a bit.
- New rear Toyota driveshaft. My original driveshaft needed new ujoints and upon a closer inspection, I noticed a balancing weight had fallen off (this was the cause of a slight harmonic vibration at 75mph) and the slip joint had some play. After the new driveshaft the clunk was almost gone.
- New Toyota rear upper control arms and SPC lower control arms. The OE bushings were not blown out, but they did let the axle move around a lot. The new arms and bushings secured the axle and had a little effect on the clunk.

I need to pull the front driveshaft and inspect it. I do not see any play in the ujoints or slip yoke when installed on the rig, but at 313k miles I expect to find wear. If the slip joint is good, I'll install new ujoints. After that, if a clunk still remains it has to be isolated to the other front diff bushings, diffs, tcase or transmission.

 

[Greenbean]

I have this. Greased the shafts but the thunk is still there. For the hell of it I pressed the center diff button and it went away. I thought diff locks don’t engage in hi? I drive a 2004.

IIRC you can engage the CDL in 1st and 2nd when in 4hi, but once the vehicle shifts up to 3rd it disengages.

Should automatically engage in 4lo.

For the heck of it I’m going to engage mine before I go to work today as I have zero clunk when cold, after driving and warming up is when it starts.

Has to be something that is warming up, I just hope it’s not my transmission or TC.

Well I’ll be a monkeys uncle!

I went out and filled up my gas tank, got home and shifted it into 1st, engaged CDL and back and forth to reverse and NO clunk. Guess that means most of my play is in the TC/Ctr Diff?