Builds The Mule: My OM617 swap and other improvements (3 Viewers)

[RWBeringer4x4]

I bypassed the ammeter when I converted to a GM 12SI Alternator earlier this year (just under 100A I believe). I was told this was a good idea because the stock ammeter can't take a full 100A hit (or much over 50A) for any extended period of time without melting.

I believe, at the time, I simply "taped off" the white/blue side of the ammeter - essentially it's now a dead end.

Confirmed in my build thread, part way down page 29:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/th...in-refurbishing-a-1975-chevota.725833/page-29

The only disadvantage is that the ammeter now never goes above the middle of the gauge. It will show an amp drain, but never "charging."

As for the light bulbs - I'm running a diode to "fake" a single idiot light. This just adds resistance, but probably not generating a current draw, so I can't help you there. Fundamentally, if it's on a fuse, I'd wire it in, and try it - see if it blows the fuse. You're probably fine (talking a ridiculously small draw from those two bulbs) but you should be protected if it overloads.

 

[DPV7070]

So, you're asking if you need to run the idiot light off of a new circuit or piggyback on the existing one? 3 Watts at 12 Vdc only pulls .25amps (I=P/V). I think you'll be OK if you just add it to an existing circuit.

I came to that conclusion last night...so no worries there.

My real question is what to do with the white/blue wire that used to run from the alternator to the negative side of the ammeter. I bypassed the ammeter and the WL wire is currently not going anywhere. Everything seems fine with respect to battery voltage, etc.

I bypassed the ammeter when I converted to a GM 12SI Alternator earlier this year (just under 100A I believe). I was told this was a good idea because the stock ammeter can't take a full 100A hit (or much over 50A) for any extended period of time without melting.

I believe, at the time, I simply "taped off" the white/blue side of the ammeter - essentially it's now a dead end.

Confirmed in my build thread, part way down page 29:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/th...in-refurbishing-a-1975-chevota.725833/page-29

The only disadvantage is that the ammeter now never goes above the middle of the gauge. It will show an amp drain, but never "charging."

As for the light bulbs - I'm running a diode to "fake" a single idiot light. This just adds resistance, but probably not generating a current draw, so I can't help you there. Fundamentally, if it's on a fuse, I'd wire it in, and try it - see if it blows the fuse. You're probably fine (talking a ridiculously small draw from those two bulbs) but you should be protected if it overloads.

@RWBeringer4x4 thanks for the link, I had forgotten that I read that. So you just taped up the end that previously went to the alternator? I bypassed the ammeter completely and just crimped, soldered, heat shrinked, and taped the two together behind the instrument panel. It's still feeding the fuse box from where the ammeter wire was spliced (originally) and runs to the fuse box. Where that splice is I have no clue.

My current setup looks like this:

 

[davegonz]

Heat shrink it and tuck it away.

 

[DPV7070]

Heat shrink it and tuck it away.

Easy day, thanks dude.

 

[DPV7070]

Still plugging away on this thing. I've spent countless hours fixing PO electrical "splices." Crimping, soldering, heat shrinking, taping...my God.

Anyways, I've got the alternator idiot light and glow plugs all wired up. Apparently on all my other starts I was starting on one glow plug. Whoops... Starts immediately now. Trans tunnel is in, twin sticks are finished, fuel tank is in, fuel lines are done, etc

Not a lot of tech here, sorry.

Will this accept a v-band down pipe or do I need an adapter like the one @davegonz put on Hamp?. Obviously if I want to go bigger I'll need an adapter, but I'm unsure if this is a MBZ design or industry standard.

 

[davegonz]

I don't think it's quite standard. I think @warpdriv ended up using the adapter too.

 

[davegonz]

Another thing, I went with a 3" exhaust, but a 2.5" world have worked great.

 

[warpdriv]

I don't think it's quite standard. I think @warpdriv ended up using the adapter too.

Yep.

 

[franklin40]

your build is looking soooo good! you keep me motivated to keep mine going. I have had so many delays in parts that I'm loosing the steam. I know with out a doubt that when they finally come I'll be pumped to get it together and running. it's just nice to see that progress can actually happen!! well done and great perseverance

 

[DPV7070]

your build is looking soooo good! you keep me motivated to keep mine going. I have had so many delays in parts that I'm loosing the steam. I know with out a doubt that when they finally come I'll be pumped to get it together and running. it's just nice to see that progress can actually happen!! well done and great perseverance

Thanks for the kind words... It's definitely tried my patience more than a few times.

Here's a short clip of how I set up my glow indicator and alternator no charge light.

 

[DPV7070]

ATP Turbos ATP-MDP-010 3" down pipe with O2 bungs deleted (saves $20).

Pretty close to the starter. The wires have high temp sheathing (1200C), but I'm worried about the starter solenoid getting too hot. I'll have to protect it somehow. The V10 in my F250 has a heat shield, but it doesn't fit with due to the starters orientation...

 

[davegonz]

Looks good. Nice and clean.

 

[franklin40]

are you running the stock turbo? I like the 3 inch tube. that'll flow the exhaust well. summit racing has starter heat wraps that might be what your looking for. I don't have. part numbers but remember seeing it in the catalogue

 

[DPV7070]

are you running the stock turbo? I like the 3 inch tube. that'll flow the exhaust well. summit racing has starter heat wraps that might be what your looking for. I don't have. part numbers but remember seeing it in the catalogue

Yes, it is the stock turbo with a v-band adapter.

 

[cruisermatt]

Possibly you could do a metal heat shield around the exhaust, and a separate one around the starter?

Just make sure they are easy to remove!

 

[davegonz]

What starter are you running? Looks like a big old non-gear reduction type. Get a gear reduction starter from a 60/62. They're smaller and work really well. That might give you some room for a shield.

 

[DPV7070]

It's a Ford Super Duty V10 starter. It's what the 4x4 Labs kit calls for. It's a lot smaller than the original MBZ starter. I think this is a gear reduction starter, but I'll have to research it.

 

[davegonz]

I forgot that you weren't running a Toyota tranny.

 

[franklin40]

can you rotate the v band to point the down pipe a little more outboard? that'll give you a few more inches away from your starter and closer to your frame. not sure if you have room to do that.

 

[DPV7070]

can you rotate the v band to point the down pipe a little more outboard? that'll give you a few more inches away from your starter and closer to your frame. not sure if you have room to do that.

I can rotate it a bit more toward the frame, but I think we're talking maybe gaining a few cm's. I think it'll be fine. If not I'll take it off, do a small pie cut, then TIG it back together.