Blastservices
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- #21
Diaphragm verse three fingers provides smoother engagement and more even disc pressure
The Mule / 73’ with a past?
- Thread starter Blastservices
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Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #22
While I’m here! I’ll show another fun treasure a user here had in their possession stored away. It was the old adage…. If you ask, you shall receive!! Super clean hardly any wear and had some slight rust staining I used CLR and 0000 steel wool o.
floor mat porn!!
floor mat porn!!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Not sure about any adjustment on the fingers themselves, but if there is, it’s probably to ride on the throwout bearing evenly. I guess it’s possible that they would be accessible through the cover plate on the bottom of the bellhousing.
Yeah, but shouldn't the throw out bearing be sitting square on the input shaft, etc. I would think all three fingers would have to be equal.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
They should be equal. I’ve never heard of adjustments on the fingers, just to be clear. So FIIK. Let’s see what the manual says about it…
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
Sho nuff, Haynes manual. Shows #8 as being one of the “release levers” and #7 as an “adjusting bolt”
“Release Fork Tip Play” should be between 4 - 6 mm
“Release Fork Tip Play” should be between 4 - 6 mm
RUSH55
SILVER Star
One more tidbit
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #29
TC and Trans are installed and everything seems to be in it’s spot. I’ll be back at tomorrow when I don’t have 50 distractions all day…looks like what I thought, a fine adjustment of free play on the TO bearing. Thank you for posting the pics.
Time for a beerS
Time for a beerS
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Before u get too far here ...........
you need :
Transfer-Case 4wd Shift Shaft Boot missing Part Call out # 36318 part # 36318-60010
CALL OUT # 31126 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK part # 31126-60010
take the time say 30 minutes , pull parking brake drum .....
Install a NEW OEM Seal call out # 36132A part # 90311-45018
use TOYOTA FIPG
orange Transaxle and Gear Box HOUSING sealant
00295-01281
- Smear generously over both male splines use a cue tip smear same like in and on FEMALE parking brake drum inside splines
- Mate Together in SAME Exact order removed ,
- KEY point : NOTE staked NUT Manual STAKE punch detent , use torque wrench , apply FSM required TOURQUE ONLT and NEVER past Original STAKE PUNCH
Detent Marks impressions
- if you have a COTTER KEY style rear park drum and cqastle nut detail parts note cotter pin locations with paint dots like a BB ball timing flywheel 7' marl for example same exact way
- used a ROUND or field made square 3/16 drift punch re-stake to original factory location ONLY , NEVER tighten beyond , u have a crush sleeve detail inside here ........fyi
- or replace cotter key same exact location removed from after pre load inital tourque step by steps in 3spd J-30 FSM chapters
- Test Pre-load per FSM best u can with a spring schale ideally , or the like
- if you don't replace seal leaks to come now or soon after easy to replace now ,
- KEY POINT NOT IN FSM : apply oem OARNGE FIPG ONLY NOT NAPA permatex EVER to be clear , if you skip this Updated asn widley accepted TECH upscale and modlern skool of thought step by FIPG step , Geat OIL WILL Seep and leak from between the male and femail p[arking brake drum splines from inside the t-case , i can say 110% it will sooner rather then later if not allready happening now ..........
you need :
Transfer-Case 4wd Shift Shaft Boot missing Part Call out # 36318 part # 36318-60010
CALL OUT # 31126 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK part # 31126-60010
take the time say 30 minutes , pull parking brake drum .....
Install a NEW OEM Seal call out # 36132A part # 90311-45018
use TOYOTA FIPG
orange Transaxle and Gear Box HOUSING sealant
00295-01281
- Smear generously over both male splines use a cue tip smear same like in and on FEMALE parking brake drum inside splines
- Mate Together in SAME Exact order removed ,
- KEY point : NOTE staked NUT Manual STAKE punch detent , use torque wrench , apply FSM required TOURQUE ONLT and NEVER past Original STAKE PUNCH
Detent Marks impressions
- if you have a COTTER KEY style rear park drum and cqastle nut detail parts note cotter pin locations with paint dots like a BB ball timing flywheel 7' marl for example same exact way
- used a ROUND or field made square 3/16 drift punch re-stake to original factory location ONLY , NEVER tighten beyond , u have a crush sleeve detail inside here ........fyi
- or replace cotter key same exact location removed from after pre load inital tourque step by steps in 3spd J-30 FSM chapters
- Test Pre-load per FSM best u can with a spring schale ideally , or the like
- if you don't replace seal leaks to come now or soon after easy to replace now ,
- KEY POINT NOT IN FSM : apply oem OARNGE FIPG ONLY NOT NAPA permatex EVER to be clear , if you skip this Updated asn widley accepted TECH upscale and modlern skool of thought step by FIPG step , Geat OIL WILL Seep and leak from between the male and femail p[arking brake drum splines from inside the t-case , i can say 110% it will sooner rather then later if not allready happening now ..........
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You have a UNICORN TROPHY TRUCK in my opinion @Blastservices 
a 1973 FJ55 Modle ID Code is simply FJ55LG
PM me your full frame # i can try thru my complex hand recorded records during my Reproduction DATA ID plate maker days years ago it now seams
narrow down your production date pretty darn well if you have a NOn-USA Import or missing the drivers door usa Spec. Data Plate maybe ?
i am the life long Dedicated care taker of this for well over 15 years :
YES, i know wrong front fender combo lamps ...
1/79 FJ55LG-KA USA Spec.
I don;t know the exact number imported in 79 but ain't all that many i can say for sure , maybe someone can chime in ?
ALL 1980 USA Spec. Imports FJ55LG-KA 's were Special ORDER Dealer type Build Sheets 100% Only
i can only imagine maybe around the same number 1983 FJ40 usa Spec. imports comparison here
i only ever Hand-Made 2 1980 FJ55 sets of Data ID plates , both were Verified USA Spec. via original Drivers Door Smaller Plates
FJ55 Drivers Side Door Plates are always mounted on the Drivers Door Itself , NOT the jamb like a FJ40 that i saw 1968 - 1980
YES , 1968 indeed too .......
there is a RICH and KILLER KOOL FJ55 History if you Dig hard online and well here in MUD Advance Search Archives as well
a 1973 FJ55 Modle ID Code is simply FJ55LG
PM me your full frame # i can try thru my complex hand recorded records during my Reproduction DATA ID plate maker days years ago it now seams
narrow down your production date pretty darn well if you have a NOn-USA Import or missing the drivers door usa Spec. Data Plate maybe ?
i am the life long Dedicated care taker of this for well over 15 years :
YES, i know wrong front fender combo lamps ...
1/79 FJ55LG-KA USA Spec.
I don;t know the exact number imported in 79 but ain't all that many i can say for sure , maybe someone can chime in ?
ALL 1980 USA Spec. Imports FJ55LG-KA 's were Special ORDER Dealer type Build Sheets 100% Only
i can only imagine maybe around the same number 1983 FJ40 usa Spec. imports comparison here
i only ever Hand-Made 2 1980 FJ55 sets of Data ID plates , both were Verified USA Spec. via original Drivers Door Smaller Plates
FJ55 Drivers Side Door Plates are always mounted on the Drivers Door Itself , NOT the jamb like a FJ40 that i saw 1968 - 1980
YES , 1968 indeed too .......
there is a RICH and KILLER KOOL FJ55 History if you Dig hard online and well here in MUD Advance Search Archives as well
Last edited:
Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #32
Need some help!
I sourced a radiator from a post 74’ truck. The parts breakdown shows a pre 74’ and post. I assumed radiator core got an extra row or something with the production of the 2F. Anyways the one I sourced showed up and doesn’t flushly sit against the radiator support. Can any pre 74’ owners send a pic showing the same pic I have here? Maybe it will help decide if I go further with this radiator or keep looking.
I added a complete view also. It has the cutout on the driver side vertical support that would copy the cutout on the later shroud as well.
I sourced a radiator from a post 74’ truck. The parts breakdown shows a pre 74’ and post. I assumed radiator core got an extra row or something with the production of the 2F. Anyways the one I sourced showed up and doesn’t flushly sit against the radiator support. Can any pre 74’ owners send a pic showing the same pic I have here? Maybe it will help decide if I go further with this radiator or keep looking.
I added a complete view also. It has the cutout on the driver side vertical support that would copy the cutout on the later shroud as well.
that's a SNAPPY Sweet looking OEM ORIGINAL NipponDenso Unit there .............
in the blurry back ground upper LH side of above image ?
care to share .............
Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #34
Both the shift boot and clutch fork on order… appreciate the keen eye Matt.
Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #35
Here ya go, @ToyotaMattthat's a SNAPPY Sweet looking OEM ORIGINAL NipponDenso Unit there .............
in the blurry back ground upper LH side of above image ?
care to share .............
The distributor is “other” market…
ToyotaMatt,
You need to take some new pictures of that wagon out in the wild.
You need to take some new pictures of that wagon out in the wild.
you mean Yellow Jacket Above ?
sure , the sun is setting and i just hand washed her last week ...
good call
That color looks great!
Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you! It took a bit to grow on me since the mind visualizes these in two colors almost always.
Blastservices
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
Some recents…
Spare was an incorrect rim and the tire was super lame.
Blasted primed and powdered RAL7037
Spare was an incorrect rim and the tire was super lame.
Blasted primed and powdered RAL7037
