Get some! sub'd
Builds The M-80: A Ultra 4-Stock Class-Go Fast Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Krazytoy
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ToyotaDon
I am here
A dream of mine for sure! This gives me more reason to try and make it out there next year.
I gotta do my phh and a couple oil leaks. Can I hire that body removal service?
Ford had that idea. Now everything on a Ford truck requires that the cab be removed.
- Thread starter
- #85
If your interested in helping out let me know, I'm sure we will be able to use all the help we can get! It is something that I think everyone should experience at least once...
Sure man, I'll take it all apart and you put it all back together.
Damn you Ford!
I have made a few purchases and some final decisions. I have purchased Walker Evans beadlocks, they are 17"x8.5" with 4.25" backspacing along with General Grabber 35x12.50's. Why Generals, well they came with the wheels and I got a smoakin' deal on the package of 5!
I also bought some 2.5"x14" Remote reservoir Sway Away shocks, I changed to Sway Away because there collapsed length is almost 2" shorter than a Fox or King, when I cannot cut the body this makes a big difference and 14" travel is as long as I can run in the stock class. Plus I got a smoakin' deal on these too!
I also decided to change the front diff to the 9.5"... Mainly because if I am going to spend $6-$7G's on a front diff I want it to last! Plus if I ditch the Ultra4 car or move up a class I will not have to start over on the diffs, I think that for the long run the 9.5" is the way to go, at least for me...
Shocks should be here Thursday and I plan to run down to SLC on Saturday to pick up the wheels and tires. I have the diffs completely stripped out from under the chassis and I will start cutting off all the stock link mounts and work on moving the engine and trans/t-case up while I am waiting for the housing to show up, once they get here I should be able to have a rolling chassis again.
ToyotaDon
I am here
I am watching this thread, and if things line up, may contact you as the time gets closer.
- Thread starter
- #87
Been pretty busy lately trying to get stuff going. Removed all the rest of the BS from the engine including all the wiring and vacuum stuff. This engine is actually pretty bitchin' once you remove all the BS. I chopped all the stock suspension brackets off and only need to finish sanding everything. I also figured out that you need to move the t-case up 1.75" if you want a flat belly. I am moving the t-case up 1.75" and the engine up 1". I received the 2.5" x 14" Sway-Away shocks.
My housings from Ruff Stuff showed up yesterday, THESE ARE HUGE! Holy s*** batman, these are badass! They are 3.5" 3/8" wall tubes, all the gussets inside the diff are just badass, I don't see even me screwing these up!
Last weekend I went over to Jackson to visit RMP&O and had some beers, went for a drive, got him drunk and robbed him of a bunch of parts. He gave me some 80 housings he had lying around along with all the 2" 7075 aluminum links for the suspension, I forget how beef these links are, they should take some abuse. I will cut these down to the length I need once I figure all that out.
If anyone is wondering the rear pinion of offset 4" to the passenger side, and the front, well the front kinda kicked my ass. The front axle lengths are 34.125 and 17.75 (Thanks Booger) so you add that up and you get 51.875 divide that by 2 and you get 25.9375, 25.9375-17.75 gives you 8.1875, which "should" be your pinion offset. Only problem is Toyota offset the engine in the 80... so after measuring a stock housing and measuring with the Ruff Stuff Housing best I can figure if the pinion in the front is offset to the passenger side about 6.25"... Kinda of a bitch but i think I have it figured out... I dropped the ends off to a machinist buddy of mine to have them machined, by my measurements the stock housing has an OD of 2.5" and the new housings have an OD of 2.75", we are probably going to have to machine some sort of spacer to use these ends.
Here is how you fix the factory suspension!
Every Housing is stamped with ID numbers.
My housings from Ruff Stuff showed up yesterday, THESE ARE HUGE! Holy s*** batman, these are badass! They are 3.5" 3/8" wall tubes, all the gussets inside the diff are just badass, I don't see even me screwing these up!
Last weekend I went over to Jackson to visit RMP&O and had some beers, went for a drive, got him drunk and robbed him of a bunch of parts. He gave me some 80 housings he had lying around along with all the 2" 7075 aluminum links for the suspension, I forget how beef these links are, they should take some abuse. I will cut these down to the length I need once I figure all that out.
If anyone is wondering the rear pinion of offset 4" to the passenger side, and the front, well the front kinda kicked my ass. The front axle lengths are 34.125 and 17.75 (Thanks Booger) so you add that up and you get 51.875 divide that by 2 and you get 25.9375, 25.9375-17.75 gives you 8.1875, which "should" be your pinion offset. Only problem is Toyota offset the engine in the 80... so after measuring a stock housing and measuring with the Ruff Stuff Housing best I can figure if the pinion in the front is offset to the passenger side about 6.25"... Kinda of a bitch but i think I have it figured out... I dropped the ends off to a machinist buddy of mine to have them machined, by my measurements the stock housing has an OD of 2.5" and the new housings have an OD of 2.75", we are probably going to have to machine some sort of spacer to use these ends.
Here is how you fix the factory suspension!
Every Housing is stamped with ID numbers.
Nice progress! Those housings are a work of art! I thought you had to run the same suspension style that came from the factory, I didn't realize that coilovers were an option.
Are you fabbing new motor mounts to get the engine up an inch? Can the TC move up 1.75" without coming in contact with the body?
Are you fabbing new motor mounts to get the engine up an inch? Can the TC move up 1.75" without coming in contact with the body?
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Damn those housings are beautiful! I can't wait to break my 8" R&P so I can put a Ruff Stuff 9.5 in the front
- Thread starter
- #90
Coilovers are not an option, I bought the Sway-A-Ways for a few reasons, 1. they are the shortest 14" shock I could find, 14" is the longest the rules allow and the shortest collapsed length allows for the most up-travel without going thru the body. 2. The coilovers were purchased used, so I got smoakin' deal on them and 3. whae I'm done beating on this and ready to move up to the 4600 class I'll already have coilovers and bitchin' diffs! Yes, I am fabbing all new t-case mount and engine mounts, the engine mounts need to be raised to clear the upper 3 link in the front and the 9.5" housing to allow for maximum uptravel. I'm not sure if the 1.75' will clear the body, with the body on I measured about 1/2" clearance from the trans/t-case to the body, the rules allow for a 1" body lift, I may have to get the BFH out and do some "custom" work to the tunnel.
Damn those housings are beautiful! I can't wait to break my 8" R&P so I can put a Ruff Stuff 9.5 in the front
Yes they are! If my wife would have allowed them in the bed last night they would have been!
Have you taken into account how the extra 1.75" will effect your front pinion angle?
That's a lot of custom work to be done with a BFH! I'll be watching
, I'd love to tuck mine up.
I'm not sure if the 1.75' will clear the body, with the body on I measured about 1/2" clearance from the trans/t-case to the body, the rules allow for a 1" body lift, I may have to get the BFH out and do some "custom" work to the tunnel.
That's a lot of custom work to be done with a BFH! I'll be watching, I'd love to tuck mine up.- Thread starter
- #92
Have you taken into account how the extra 1.75" will effect your front pinion angle?
I am not worried about the 1.75" lift on the drive shafts, I don't know why you guys have such a hard time figuring them out, yes the 80 has about a 3* sweet spot, but its there... and with a custom housing it will be right, I will be able to set pinion angle and castor to what ever I want, also with all the unsprung weight that is coming off this I think I am only going to have to run about a 2" lift spring, so really I should be less than 4" of lift overall.
The 1/2" clearance was only in a few spots, you guys need to remember this is a race car, not a mall cruiser, if it has to "self clearance" itself a little... oh well...
I can figure it out a pinion angle. The only reason I brought up those two things is to help prevent an "oh s***" moment down the road. Carry on...
can you run it without a hood? that thing needs one huge louver hole. sweet set up! Can I have your old doors and stuff? or is it all tossed?
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Just remember that if you run heims they will need to be replaced often. When Ford developed the Raptor they tested heims on their suspension but found that they wear out too quickly. The nice thing about Johnny joints or poly bushings is they have more give which reduces impact loading on everything else and last longer so you don't have to change em after a few races. Im not saying heims are weak, but they wear out very quickly because they have no give, and their often not rebuildable. If you own a trophy tuck its no big deal because you have a race team that rebuilds the truck after every race. Also have you thought about port and polishing the head? You might gain 20 or so hp. Does anyone offer more aggressive cams for that motor? It stinks you can't use forced induction, those motors can handle a lot of forced induction. Ive heard of guys getting like 800hp or more.
http://extremelandcruiser.com/found...-1fzfe-is-through-a-brian-crower-stroker-kit/
http://extremelandcruiser.com/found...-1fzfe-is-through-a-brian-crower-stroker-kit/
- Thread starter
- #97
Yep, I know all about rod ends and how they wear. When we used to desert race it was one or two races and they were junk. The newer rod ends anre not as bad and being they are 1.25" they should last longer. Rod ends are still the strongest and most economical IMO.
I finished the ultra s***ty task of cutting all the stock suspension mounts off the frame and grinding down everything. Many, many
later and I have everything off. I got all the knuckles and full float spindles turned down and ready to be installed. Got the rear lower links mounted and started working on the rear upper wishbone, I am defiantly going to have to put a slight bend in the upper links to clear the cross member, I don't think it will be too bad.This is the rear spindle with the brakes on so I could figure axle width, we had to turn down the ends of the housings slightly, no big deal.
All turned and ready to install.
The wheels and tires, picked up 5 of these for less than $2K!
Wheel and tire is 119 lbs each...
I frickin' hate grinding... HATE IT! This was about a 30 pack and lots of Death Metal on the ear phones.
I drilled a few extra holes in the link brackets for some rosettes.
Good grinders make good welders...
Lowers tacked in and everything is fitting well.
I took some video of the stuff on the lathe but apparently Photobucket doesn't like them? I'll try and get them up later.
- Thread starter
- #99
I had some time to make a few changes, I moved the lowers at the axle end out about 4.5" and the frame end in 2", this got the over steer down to about 3 degrees, this is as far as I can go with getting really crazy making a new cross member and I'm not doing that. I also moved the uppers at the frame end down 2" which brought the antisquat up to 80% and I am happy with that. I mocked up the upper links with the bend to clear the crossmember and it looks like everything is going to work. I am going to rebend the uppers with less bend, it has plenty of clearance now. Don't mind the straight tube in the center, remember this is all just for mock up.
Need some advice, the center rod end at the axle, I know it "should be mounted horizontal as opposed to vertical how I have it now. Does anyone know how critical this is? I could possibly mount it horizontal, but I would have to make a custom bracket.
This is at full stuff.
Need some advice, the center rod end at the axle, I know it "should be mounted horizontal as opposed to vertical how I have it now. Does anyone know how critical this is? I could possibly mount it horizontal, but I would have to make a custom bracket.
This is at full stuff.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
I'd argue that it's incredibly important for a wishbone setup because the loads under lateral stress are almost entirely axial. Rotating it vertically allows the lateral forces to load the rod end radially. Most manufacturers state that axial loads on a rod end are only in the neighborhood of 12-18% of the radial load, so bear in mind the joint is much weaker the way you have it. It might survive in the "wrong" orientation, but you wouldnt' want to prematurely wear it, either.
Taking it a step further, you shouldn't even use a rod end for the wishbone, but that's revising too much, I'd guess.
