Builds The M-80: A Ultra 4-Stock Class-Go Fast Build

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In my experience it is hard to add less weight than you remove.

Being very weight conscious in you fabrication practices is always a good idea, but make it safe too. Be creative on what "needs" to be removed to make room for cage, fuel cell and safety equipment.

If you run 2 spares there goes all the weight from removing the rear tail gate. 2 batteries and that's all the power window weight.
 
Nice Jason! You have needed those shelves for a long time. I guess the boat lives outside now?


Funny, I had a productive weekend in the shop too. Cleaned the hell out of it, found several Patrols worth of hardware. That took some time and beers as it was 10yrs of hardware scattered in about 10 different locations.

The shop is ready for beer drinking, come on over anytime for the axles.

Cheers
 
In my experience it is hard to add less weight than you remove.

Being very weight conscious in you fabrication practices is always a good idea, but make it safe too. Be creative on what "needs" to be removed to make room for cage, fuel cell and safety equipment.

If you run 2 spares there goes all the weight from removing the rear tail gate. 2 batteries and that's all the power window weight.


We plan to be very weight conscious throughout this build for sure. I have goal weight of between 4500-5000 pounds, I will be very happy if we can keep it under 5K. I plan to run one battery and one spare, I already did the overland build and by the time I was done my old 80 was over 7000!

Nice Jason! You have needed those shelves for a long time. I guess the boat lives outside now?


Funny, I had a productive weekend in the shop too. Cleaned the hell out of it, found several Patrols worth of hardware. That took some time and beers as it was 10yrs of hardware scattered in about 10 different locations.

The shop is ready for beer drinking, come on over anytime for the axles.

Cheers


Thanks buddy, I will probably be over in the week or two.
 
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I'll be interested to see your 4 link and 3 link setups. I'm new to learning about high performance suspension. Are there any other 80's with linked suspension?
 
Awesome!! :cheers:


Thanks, we plan to run a 1" body lift, I will be talking to you when we get to that point. I ran your body lift on my 100 series and was really happy with your kit!

Subscribed!

I'll be interested to see your 4 link and 3 link setups. I'm new to learning about high performance suspension. Are there any other 80's with linked suspension?


Yep, there are many, in fact, 4 Wheel Underground has developed a kit to 3 link the front. Its on the last page.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/1282106-little-something-were-working-4.html
 
Subscribed!

I'll be interested to see your 4 link and 3 link setups. I'm new to learning about high performance suspension. Are there any other 80's with linked suspension?

Links are links. Consider your packaging options, model them up, and give it a go.
 
Understand he is stripping the truck down to almost nothing. Sure we will add some weight here and there but not as much as is removed. I am thinking it is going to come in at 4500-4800lbs. Time will tell. Hell my empty fairly stock 80 comes in at 5200lbs so maybe under 4500lbs will happen.

I doubt it. I think it will be over 5k. A lot of the 4400 cars are over 4500, and that's with a tube chassis. Granted they usually have heavier axles, and bypass shocks and bigger cooling systems, but the LC frame is beef, that drivetrain is not exactly light and then there is all that sheet metal

Wayne did an interesting thread over on Pirate about the weight of last years KOH entrants. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1154993-heaviest-lightest-koh-racers.html

Currie races mod class these days. Not gonna beat the $100k plus cars....




Sweet ride! Your turn to build a race rig.

Not me. The closest I come to a race car is pitting for EZ Rick. I've gone full circle from a fullsize Bronco, to the Toy pickup, to a tube car (with a FJ grill:D), and now back to the fullsize in my FZJ80.

Krazytoy,
I sent you an email regarding sponsorship.
also you want to run Lexan Windows not Plexiglass Windows. :)

Yup, Plexiglass sucks in a dusty environment.

Anyone ever done a propane 1fze?

Get a hold of Cary over at GotPropane.com. If you do go that route, you could run some high compression and/or more ignition timing to make up for the BTU loss. Honestly the stock class cars can't go fast enough to really make use of big power, so you want your gearing to be useful for passing and coming out of corners. My 80 is on 35's and with 5.29 gears and 3k RPM, it's still under 80mph. There will be very few, if any, places where you will see 80mph in this class

We plan to be very weight conscious throughout this build for sure. I have goal weight of between 4500-5000 pounds, I will be very happy if we can keep it under 5K. I plan to run one battery and one spare, I already did the overland build and by the time I was done my old 80 was over 7000!

Sounds like you're being realistic, get aggressive/creative and remove stuff like underbody coating, unused wire, light weight lighting, etc., it all adds up. And as others have said, try and keep the weight off the front end, it will make the steering components happier and help with the desert sections.

If you need help with radio communications let me know.

This thing is going to be cool!
 
Subscribed!

I'll be interested to see your 4 link and 3 link setups. I'm new to learning about high performance suspension. Are there any other 80's with linked suspension?

I've got a 3-link in the front of mine, but it still needs bumps and an anti-roll bar. It works well at speed, but without an anti-roll bar it can wallow a bit.
 
I guess we will have to see on the weight, while it is a huge concern getting home to see my family is much more important than a few hundred pounds.
I talked to Cary on Sunday and all we need is a vacuum dizzy and coil to do the Propane, I am sure the 3F's ran vacuum dizzies so I am going to be looking into this. I really feel that getting rid of all the factory wiring/sensors/emissions and VCC's are going to make this engine really reliable, honestly all that stuff is one of the biggest reason I hesitated on this build for awhile, after a year or so of dreaming every night I just said screw it were gonna run a 80 and didn't even think about running Propane until I was talking to a friend of mine that races the 4600 class now with a mini truck and he mentioned the propane and a light went off in my head.
Well, I just dropped a significant amount of coin at Ruff Stuff so some new things should be rolling in here in a few weeks. The new housings and all the link brackets and rod ends plus a ton of other stuff is on it's way.
 
I guess we will have to see on the weight, while it is a huge concern getting home to see my family is much more important than a few hundred pounds.
I talked to Cary on Sunday and all we need is a vacuum dizzy and coil to do the Propane, I am sure the 3F's ran vacuum dizzies so I am going to be looking into this. I really feel that getting rid of all the factory wiring/sensors/emissions and VCC's are going to make this engine really reliable, honestly all that stuff is one of the biggest reason I hesitated on this build for awhile, after a year or so of dreaming every night I just said screw it were gonna run a 80 and didn't even think about running Propane until I was talking to a friend of mine that races the 4600 class now with a mini truck and he mentioned the propane and a light went off in my head.
Well, I just dropped a significant amount of coin at Ruff Stuff so some new things should be rolling in here in a few weeks. The new housings and all the link brackets and rod ends plus a ton of other stuff is on it's way.

You may be able to get a vacuum dizzy off the 1FZ-F (carb'd model). Not sure if it is vacuum or electronic advance though. Just a thought.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/217689-80-series-1fz-f.html
 
the 2f Dizzy is Vacuum advanced. I can't imagine the 3fe would be electronic advance with the OBD 0. I wonder if a 2f dizzy would be drop in.
 
You may be able to get a vacuum dizzy off the 1FZ-F (carb'd model). Not sure if it is vacuum or electronic advance though. Just a thought.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/217689-80-series-1fz-f.html

That is very interesting, looks like the dizzy is electronic.

the 2f Dizzy is Vacuum advanced. I can't imagine the 3fe would be electronic advance with the OBD 0. I wonder if a 2f dizzy would be drop in.

You got one laying around, I'll compare and see?
 
I do wonder how good of a dizzy it can be for $55
This was my thought as well, I am going to assume it is good enough to purchase and install to see if the theory is going to work at all, after the theory has been proven hopefully I can source a OEM one from Toyota.
 
I really feel that getting rid of all the factory wiring/sensors/emissions and VCC's are going to make this engine really reliable,

Why do you think this would help. I would leave all that stuff stock. This is a ECU controlled FI motor that hardly ever has issues with those systems. Even if you did get an EGR code it doesn't matter to race. I would leave it stock and not mess with it.
 
Jason can answer better than me but I do believe he is after simplifying the engine, shaving weight, getting it off the ECU and being able to run fuel equal to super high octane race fuel.

Cheers
 

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