Step 7
Hang the air tank.
I had to pull the tire carrier in the end. The tank fit above it. But there wasn’t enough articulation clearance to make me comfortable.
Drilled one thru hole for 10mm
Set another rivnut for an 8mm
And used a tire carrrier 8mm.
It won’t move.
Added a breakout box off the trailer connectors. Wired in the trailer connector, the bumper reverse, and the bumper license and brake. Easy to now add further lights if necessary to the bumper, and for other accessory use.
Where did you source that nifty box? Is it weatherproof? I will probably steal your idea and do something very similar. I assume you made the harness longer?
@KLFhere . It’s not immersion proof but certainly splash and most typical exposures. Comes with rubber plates for each entry point that you custom cut for your wires.
They are an integral part of securing my electrical parts box.
I also like them, recognizing they have limited function, if any.
I bought 50 of the little plastic hold downs off amazon, so I don’t stress over removal. And when I’m done tinkering, I really shouldn’t have to go under them much, If at all.
Step 9 Ran the tubing to the tank. I bought some clips, but ended up tucking above existing heat shielding etc and was able to just cable tie on back. Much easier than I anticipated.
Step 10 mock up the quick connect
This is not my original planned location, so my tee is the wrong setup otherwise I'm on the home stretch. Just need to clean off the scale and paint the bracket and make up the short tube from tank to quick connect. I like this access point much better than the under fender I had planned.
if you are looking at 35s and regearing on the cheap, find a front diff from a tundra or sequoia with the tow package. they can be found on ebay for 300, then get a 99-2007 land cruiser rear 3rd member. they can be found for 350-400 on ebay. both are pretty much a direct swap. you can have 4.30 gears for less than $1000.
Here's the part of the front diff that has to be removed:
Heres the factory locker actuator and the pieces for the air cylinder on a plate i used to test mounting.
The new arm for the locker engaging fork is a 9/16 bolt with the threads and bolt head cut off. I was going to have a machinist at work drill and tap the bolt to thread onto the cylinder stud. Then drill and tap the hole for the holding screw.
Work has been crazy and i havent gotten past this point in the installation