I like where this is going....
Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
@TexAZ the front differential actuator locks up the front differential or just activates it? Because I don't think the tundra has locking diffs as an option.
- Thread starter
- #163
Only the rear has locking option as I read it. The front swap is just to keep same gear ratio front and rear. The rear locker from a 100 series requires 200 housing modification and a actuator of some sort, as the 100 electronic actuator won’t clear 200 sway bar. There are several options for actuator, adapt an air cylinder, electro piston, etc. it’s just a rod with a fork attachment on the diff side. Throw is on that thread linked on page five, I forget if it’s 12 or 24 mm. So the swap is drop in a front diff ( with potential rebuild or reshim to align) plus add on a 100 rear (potential rebuild) and optionally set up the rear locker. Or leave the rear open.
Costs are around $1k with locker, somewhat less for both open, + monkeying with the actuator and any rebuilds (time and parts).
Remans with a tjm air rear locker are in the $3k range.
It’s a solid potential savings, but definitely not drop in. There is definitely some risk with used parts and the locker actuator requires some creativity and likely some milling fees.
Costs are around $1k with locker, somewhat less for both open, + monkeying with the actuator and any rebuilds (time and parts).
Remans with a tjm air rear locker are in the $3k range.
It’s a solid potential savings, but definitely not drop in. There is definitely some risk with used parts and the locker actuator requires some creativity and likely some milling fees.
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
The tundra/sequoia use a part time 4wd front diff. The actuator engages the axle shaft in the housing when 4wd is engaged.
This actuator and shaft get swapped out when exchanging differentials.
This actuator and shaft get swapped out when exchanging differentials.
This is pretty much my inspiration, but I'm unlikely do a significant build and just have a fun offroader I'm not afraid to dent. Now I just have to find the right vehicle!
- Thread starter
- #168
Good luck with your search @ageslurkin . Know what you want and when you see it don't prevaricate.
- Thread starter
- #169
Today I tried my hand at 12v welding. I need to attach a nut to the front diff drain plug so I can loosen it. I used some 8 gauge jumper cables and a 7012 1/16" rod (fresh from a sealed pack). I used just the truck 12V (an Optima 27F deep cycle). I disconnected the car cables, put the ground on the diff, hooked up the jumper cables, and gave it a shot. Plenty of arcs, but I didn't get any actual beads layed down. I managed to get the electrode stuck once, and along with the ensuing fire and overheating on the rod. Good times! Such a small rod was pretty easy to break free.
To hold the nut onto the diff plug I used a large Neo magnet. That was part of the problem, as the thin welding rod would deflect as soon as it got near the nut. I definitely need a much smaller magnet or use tape to secure the nut temporarily. It was the devil to try to aim in the oncoming dark too.
I was pleased to see an arc, and think I'll pull the battery out of the minivan and give it a shot again tomorrow with 24v if it isn't raining (rain forecast of course). In the daylight with a strong light and a better attachment I think there's a chance of success. I just need three little 1/4" tacks . . .
Any tips?
To hold the nut onto the diff plug I used a large Neo magnet. That was part of the problem, as the thin welding rod would deflect as soon as it got near the nut. I definitely need a much smaller magnet or use tape to secure the nut temporarily. It was the devil to try to aim in the oncoming dark too.
I was pleased to see an arc, and think I'll pull the battery out of the minivan and give it a shot again tomorrow with 24v if it isn't raining (rain forecast of course). In the daylight with a strong light and a better attachment I think there's a chance of success. I just need three little 1/4" tacks . . .
Any tips?
I have glued stuff together for tacking with super glue, if there's no way to put a clamp on it.
- Thread starter
- #171
Good idea I’ll try that
- Thread starter
- #172
I found this winch comparison test interesting. They use a sled to bring some rigor. Winner is $500 US.
12-volt winch test: Results
12-volt winch test: Results
- Thread starter
- #173
Checked the oba pressure. Right where it was a couple weeks ago. 153 psi.
I had one loose fitting, the quick disconnect to bulkhead. Had to buy a set of big metric combo wrenches to get two of the correct size to tighten. It was apparent as I had expansion in the sealant.
I used the white permatex teflon sealant throughout. Works good.
I had one loose fitting, the quick disconnect to bulkhead. Had to buy a set of big metric combo wrenches to get two of the correct size to tighten. It was apparent as I had expansion in the sealant.
I used the white permatex teflon sealant throughout. Works good.
- Thread starter
- #174
No water in my OBA system after three weeks. That's a good sign.
Today one of the kids wanted air in their unicycle tire. I got out the hand pump. Thought - wait a second! Grabbed the hose and filler, walked to the back of the truck, and had a full tire in 5 seconds. +1 for a small onboard air tank
Today one of the kids wanted air in their unicycle tire. I got out the hand pump. Thought - wait a second! Grabbed the hose and filler, walked to the back of the truck, and had a full tire in 5 seconds. +1 for a small onboard air tank
- Thread starter
- #175
Didn't get to weld as I spent a bunch of time greasing zerks but I did build the battery connection cable for 24v welding. This has been a to do for a while for my self rescue kit.
- Thread starter
- #176
I did try today to free the front diff drain plug. I toted over the battery from my minivan and tried various 24v welding activities. The summary is that I could get the rod melted but didn’t get any penetration from it, so the 19 mm nut, 3/8 bar and 1/8 bar all popped off as soon as I twisted. Hammered on it a good bit with a chisel too. No dice.
I don’t think 24v is a viable welding voltage except for very thin material, based on this effort. I had zero welding experience so it was a fun experiment, I think I might get a little toaster welder to fiddle with. I found that to get a weld started the rod needed to be about half the original length, so 5 or 6 inches max.
I’ve decided to reroute my exhaust tip so I’ll have that shop tack on a nut for me.
I don’t think 24v is a viable welding voltage except for very thin material, based on this effort. I had zero welding experience so it was a fun experiment, I think I might get a little toaster welder to fiddle with. I found that to get a weld started the rod needed to be about half the original length, so 5 or 6 inches max.
I’ve decided to reroute my exhaust tip so I’ll have that shop tack on a nut for me.
- Thread starter
- #177
Success on the front diff drain plug. I tried several things, a hex nut a piece of bar stock a sawed off bolt and a coupler nut. Finally got it to stick with the coupler nut. The plug actually wasn't on very tight, came right loose as soon. As I had a good thing to grip on it.
Front diff oil black, lots of fines on the magnet in the plug too.
Put in the alternative plug that uses a regular head, will never have to do this again.
Front diff oil black, lots of fines on the magnet in the plug too.
Put in the alternative plug that uses a regular head, will never have to do this again.
- Thread starter
- #178
I hijacked this old thread when my rig was crank and stalling in the driveway. Turns out I was just out of gas. Well at least my fuses got looked at, my MAF sensor cleaned, and it wasn't an expensive fix.
- Thread starter
- #179
Signed up for this group buy on steel 17" rims.
I have a whole mess of 18" tundra wheels, but there are just more choices at 17", and @BigSh00ts has a good thing set up.
I have a whole mess of 18" tundra wheels, but there are just more choices at 17", and @BigSh00ts has a good thing set up.
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I’ll take one of your 18” tundras if you want to part with em. I’ve got an 18” steelie for a spare and it’s heavy as efff.
