Interesting and cool. Now I need to go check my pair
The Great ONSC Gun Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter erymer
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Sir,
I also have a Marauder but with the wood stock. Would you mind identifying make-n-model of your bi-pod that your rifle is equipped with? It looks like a very effective accessory.
Also, have you used it to kill any larger pests? I have had head shots on multiple ground hogs and they just ran off. However, I charge my Marauder with a nitrogen cylinder so my shots were only at 2000 psi. Therefore, I am interested in your results firing at 3000 psi (i.e., results at higher muzzle velocity). If you have had success achieving kill shots on pests of such size, then that would indicate to me that I will need to also purchase a compressor to enable the rifle to be effective against ground hogs.
Thank you
Larry
@LDowney
Here's the link to the bipod I have: Benjamin Tactical Bipod | Airgun Depot
I shoot off a table and highly recommend it for that
I have not shot anything larger than a squirrel but feel confident that it would humanly kill larger animals. The rifles are valved so they should deliver the same pressure/velocity per shot whether you have 1,000 or 3,000 psi on board although I can see degraded performance starting around 1,200 psi. I don't have a chronograph to prove that though.
Couple of thoughts... ballistics are impacted by 1. speed and 2. bullet weight.
1. There is a way to adjust (increase) valve pressure so that you have higher velocity. There is an allen adjustment near the bolt that you might be able to improve your ballistics by increasing speed (although you will have to refill more often): Adjusting the Marauder pressure
2. Using a heavier pellet or a pellet that will mushroom and dump more energy into the animal instead of passing through will significantly help. I shoot .22 and have pellets from 14 to 25 grain. Increasing your velocity with a heavier bullet will result in more energy; you just have to get that energy to transfer to the animal instead of passing through.
I feel confident that a heavier 'hunting' pellet at a higher velocity would address your concerns
I highly recommend the Edgun Leshiy channel. He routinely kills Possums, Raccoons and Skunks. Although he often uses .25 or .30 to do it, his power levels are way down (800/900 fps). You could easily achieve those energy levels with .177 or .22 by using a higher speed. Do a search on his playlist for "Dump" and "Bully". The 'Thump and Dump' series shows how the pellets transfer the energy to the animals and the 'Backyard Bully' series shows him killing bigger animals with a single shot.
Best of luck and let me know if this helps...
Here's the link to the bipod I have: Benjamin Tactical Bipod | Airgun Depot
I shoot off a table and highly recommend it for that
I have not shot anything larger than a squirrel but feel confident that it would humanly kill larger animals. The rifles are valved so they should deliver the same pressure/velocity per shot whether you have 1,000 or 3,000 psi on board although I can see degraded performance starting around 1,200 psi. I don't have a chronograph to prove that though.
Couple of thoughts... ballistics are impacted by 1. speed and 2. bullet weight.
1. There is a way to adjust (increase) valve pressure so that you have higher velocity. There is an allen adjustment near the bolt that you might be able to improve your ballistics by increasing speed (although you will have to refill more often): Adjusting the Marauder pressure
2. Using a heavier pellet or a pellet that will mushroom and dump more energy into the animal instead of passing through will significantly help. I shoot .22 and have pellets from 14 to 25 grain. Increasing your velocity with a heavier bullet will result in more energy; you just have to get that energy to transfer to the animal instead of passing through.
I feel confident that a heavier 'hunting' pellet at a higher velocity would address your concerns
I highly recommend the Edgun Leshiy channel. He routinely kills Possums, Raccoons and Skunks. Although he often uses .25 or .30 to do it, his power levels are way down (800/900 fps). You could easily achieve those energy levels with .177 or .22 by using a higher speed. Do a search on his playlist for "Dump" and "Bully". The 'Thump and Dump' series shows how the pellets transfer the energy to the animals and the 'Backyard Bully' series shows him killing bigger animals with a single shot.
Best of luck and let me know if this helps...
afgman786
SILVER Star
Looking for some advice from you cruiser heads with help on building an AR. My buddy is telling me to buy a Aero Precision m4e1 stripped lower, but they are out of stock. Is there any other suggestions on striped lowers that are around $100 that would be a good starting point?
Not a ton of choices left, but check here...
AR15 Lower Receivers Archives
AR15 Lower Receivers at Arm or Ally. Come see our growing selection of Reloading Components and AR parts, priced right and shipped fast!
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It depends on what you want to end up with. I've used Aero lowers before and really like them and have used them for most of my competition rifles. I also have ...dare I say it....an Anderson lower. It works perfectly fine and fits nice and snug with the upper. If you want something for having around the house and maybe some occasional plinking at the range, most all lowers you get from reputable dealers will be fine. For an AR, put your focus on quality into the barrel and bolt carrier group.
At this point, you might have to get what you can get. If you want something different, you may have to keep your fingers crossed things will "normalize" and you can upgrade later.
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I don't have an Aero but have heard good things about them. Anderson Manufacturing and Stag Arms get a lot of flack for being 'cheap' but they work:
Can a Basic $450 AR-15 Keep Up With My $1,500 Rifle?
If you've ever thought about an 80% lower and completing yourself, my guess is you don't have much more time to do that... Not sure why people have such a difficult time interpreting "Shall not be Infringed"
afgman786
SILVER Star
I don't have an Aero but have heard good things about them. Anderson Manufacturing and Stag Arms get a lot of flack for being 'cheap' but they work:
Can a Basic $450 AR-15 Keep Up With My $1,500 Rifle?
If you've ever thought about an 80% lower and completing yourself, my guess is you don't have much more time to do that... Not sure why people have such a difficult time interpreting "Shall not be Infringed"
That's the issue I'm finding, I tried doing a quick Google of to see which brands are good and the top rated ones were all out of stock. I know nothing about building ARs or anything of the likes, my buddy is trying to get me into it and I like the idea of building one out. Seems like it will be fun. He is also the cause of every rifle I own (good friend to have)
From a quick search PSA seems like they are decent? Ever use their products. My friend has done a good job of getting it in my head that if I'm going to do this, don't use crappy parts/lower tier companies.
So here's the secret...only a couple foundries in the US produce the aluminum blanks that are turned into AR lowers. The blanks are then bought by only a few places that actually turn them into lowers. Not all of those "top rated" brands even make their own products. A single manufacturer makes them and puts company "XYZ" logo on it and you pay according to logo...kind of like the first FJ80 vs LX 450 hmmmmmmm. You or I can contact Aero and have them make lowers for you. The minimum order is 500 I believe so it's worth them filing the paperwork with the ATF....point being it's still an Aero lower. Asking people's opinions about AR brands is just like asking Ford or Chevy...there are diehard fans of certain brands that have no actual tangible explanation for why. Most people get their notions of an AR brand being crappy without considering that they are putting low performance ammo through it. Would you say a Ferrari is garbage because you filled it with last year's lawnmower gas?
Like I said earlier...this isn't really a time you can be super picky. If the PSA is available and you're doing this as your first build to learn and see if you like it....go for the PSA (If I remember correctly, Aero was making their lowers for a while anyway).
Put your $$ into the barrel and bolt carrier group (BCG). I would HIGHLY recommend a barrel by Ballistic Advantage. They are very reasonably priced and they are about the only ones I've seen that actually guarantee accuracy (with appropriate ammo). A 223 Wylde barrel will give you better average accuracy across .223 REM and 5.56 NATO. Even the Toolcraft BCGs on the site I gave you are good. Toolcraft makes the BCGs for most ARs out there...just different logos.
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^What he said. The logo on the lower is one of the least important parts. Except for showing off to your buddies which is ok too.
The BCG has the most working parts and the barrel really affects accuracy. Don't skimp on those parts.
The BCG has the most working parts and the barrel really affects accuracy. Don't skimp on those parts.
Couldn’t find an mlok mount to fit my pressure pad so I decided to go old school with a couple pieces of bicycle inner tube.
I THINK they may have some switch mounts up at 37PSR. I saw some on the wall last week, but didn't notice if they were MLOK or not.
I tried to use a surefire mount that I modified but couldn’t get to to work. Sadly it seems nobody make an mlok mount for the olight pressure switches.
afgman786
SILVER Star
How much do you need? I believe I should still have some..
@afgman786
Aero Precision M4E1 stripped lowers in stock in Triad area if you're close...
ARMSLIST - Unrecognized Request
www.armslist.com
afgman786
SILVER Star
Man I wished I waited, could've had that shipped up here.@afgman786
Aero Precision M4E1 stripped lowers in stock in Triad area if you're close...
ARMSLIST - Unrecognized Request
Picked up my PSA lower today
Yeah, but unless you got an M4E1 upper, the "body lines" probably wouldn't match. Most any other upper will probably match up with the PSA lower.
Little late to this party, but as @SeanLX noted (with a few exceptions) the brand is only important if its a looker. If its gonna be a doer, the important thing is "mil-spec" if its mil-spec, then it should take all the parts to finish one out. I have never seen the need to pay more for a name on a bare metal casting. I've got Anderson and PSA in my collection among others and they all run just fine. The only cosmetic thing of note (and this is across the board from my experience) is that unless the parts are bought together, as a unit, from a specific manufacturer, the black finish will likely vary slightly from upper to lower to fore-end. If your looking for them all to match, might pick out all the pieces and then send them out to be cerakoted in the same finish.
Merry Christmas to me 
been looking for a way to reasonably carry my Alaskan SuperRedhawk. With it on my hip, I the belt necessary is uncomfortably tight, it’s not a light pistol
I’m still hoping to check Alaska off my list of states I’ve been to (last 2 are AK and ND) planning on doing 2 wheels if I can get my body well enough to handle the trip. I may trailer to my mom’s house in Spokane WA then 2 wheels for the “good part” and enjoy the visceral aspect of being in the environment.
Part of that is the risk and vulnerability traveling on 2 wheels, from inattentive drivers to people with ill intent or even a grumpy furry animal, I have always liked to be responsible for my own protection. Being on 2 wheels, I’ve tried hip carrying, very challenging for me to develop the steps to properly draw from concealment in any kind of timely manner. I also severely damaged my 25yr old G19 when a clip broke, feeling it slide down my pant leg as I’m trying to pull off the freeway, only to see it hit the pavement as I pulled to the edge of the road, down to under 20mph feeling it would survive that. Yet, before I was able to dismount and retrieve it, run over by a loaded dump truck
I’ve tried boot carrying, better but makes for weak hand draw/firing, not my strong suit but able to train for that somewhat effectively.
Why not chest carry? Been looking at various holsters, kydex holsters, probably would have been the safest/most durable, but...I’m old skool and love leather. This company makes them by hand from the land of Sarah Palin and where I plan to go, why not overpay for some US, hand-made leather goods
There is a method to my madness...my Henry rifle and Alaskan can use the same round (45 colt) that I can purchase in everything from a “cowboy load” (used in cowboy action shooting matches) to a “bear load” (320g doing 1200fps), making for a simple, mostly 50 state legal to travel with (6 round max, not auto, no mags, etc) and what I traveled with in the Airstream. I also have the dies to reload some personally tuned rounds that I will work up during my training with the holster.
Lot’s of training in my future, only one speed loader pouch, if I need more after 12, I’ve already taken cover to pull from those meant for the Henry other ammo pouch. Super comfortable, good adjustability, loaded it up and ran around the house to see how it felt, super happy with the comfort that will only get better as the leather loosens up on the shoulder strap. Bummed I had to give up my membership to Sir Walter Gun Club, not worth the 3 hour one way trip, the waitlist for my preferred club is looking like at least a year out so I’ll be begging for guest passes and finding public ranges to get my hands used to the set kit
Holster is a perfect fit, retention screw works well and a hammer safety strap, yee haw
The real question will be is how to mount the Henry on my BMW, or considering a sidecar and bringing Tashi, then I’m sure I could find a way to mount it inside a side car. First things first, training, hoping the country opens back up and I can check this trip off my bucket list....
been looking for a way to reasonably carry my Alaskan SuperRedhawk. With it on my hip, I the belt necessary is uncomfortably tight, it’s not a light pistol I’m still hoping to check Alaska off my list of states I’ve been to (last 2 are AK and ND) planning on doing 2 wheels if I can get my body well enough to handle the trip. I may trailer to my mom’s house in Spokane WA then 2 wheels for the “good part” and enjoy the visceral aspect of being in the environment. Part of that is the risk and vulnerability traveling on 2 wheels, from inattentive drivers to people with ill intent or even a grumpy furry animal, I have always liked to be responsible for my own protection. Being on 2 wheels, I’ve tried hip carrying, very challenging for me to develop the steps to properly draw from concealment in any kind of timely manner. I also severely damaged my 25yr old G19 when a clip broke, feeling it slide down my pant leg as I’m trying to pull off the freeway, only to see it hit the pavement as I pulled to the edge of the road, down to under 20mph feeling it would survive that. Yet, before I was able to dismount and retrieve it, run over by a loaded dump truck
I’ve tried boot carrying, better but makes for weak hand draw/firing, not my strong suit but able to train for that somewhat effectively. Why not chest carry? Been looking at various holsters, kydex holsters, probably would have been the safest/most durable, but...I’m old skool and love leather. This company makes them by hand from the land of Sarah Palin and where I plan to go, why not overpay for some US, hand-made leather goods
There is a method to my madness...my Henry rifle and Alaskan can use the same round (45 colt) that I can purchase in everything from a “cowboy load” (used in cowboy action shooting matches) to a “bear load” (320g doing 1200fps), making for a simple, mostly 50 state legal to travel with (6 round max, not auto, no mags, etc) and what I traveled with in the Airstream. I also have the dies to reload some personally tuned rounds that I will work up during my training with the holster.Lot’s of training in my future, only one speed loader pouch, if I need more after 12, I’ve already taken cover to pull from those meant for the Henry other ammo pouch. Super comfortable, good adjustability, loaded it up and ran around the house to see how it felt, super happy with the comfort that will only get better as the leather loosens up on the shoulder strap. Bummed I had to give up my membership to Sir Walter Gun Club, not worth the 3 hour one way trip, the waitlist for my preferred club is looking like at least a year out so I’ll be begging for guest passes and finding public ranges to get my hands used to the set kit
Holster is a perfect fit, retention screw works well and a hammer safety strap, yee haw
The real question will be is how to mount the Henry on my BMW, or considering a sidecar and bringing Tashi, then I’m sure I could find a way to mount it inside a side car. First things first, training, hoping the country opens back up and I can check this trip off my bucket list....
