the good, bad and the money (1 Viewer)

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Oct 26, 2007
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Hello mud, just looking for opinions if you feel like sharing, yes ive read ALL the FAQs, so no need to link them.

found this locally the other day:
Landcruiser FJ-40, Toyota, 1978

looks decent in the pics, multi-color was a bit strange but whatever.

anyway, I went to look at it the other day and lets just say it LOOKS great...in the pics but ran really good!

-2F/4speed...Started right up first try, idled good, sounded good, ran great and strong, had some get up to it. Went right in to gear and shifted smooth, ran smooth beside the body rattling, though i did hear a loud "clunk" twice, once when i was taking off and once when i was checking out the 4wd.

-4wd felt very stong, warn locking hubs. locked hubs and then shifted into 4L very easily (easier then my 98 cherokee does), felt like it would do great offroad.

-he told me it had a small oil leak, and after looking at the locations its been parked I took his word. Though when I was out test driving (he let me go alone) I stopped in a parking lot to check things out really closely while it was still running. noticed a small amount of smoke coming from hood when i stopped but when i opened the hood there was nothing?
idled great sitting there for about 20 mins, guages were fine.
I was parked, backed into a parking spot with front facing uphill, as I was walking around I saw oil and a good amount of it..looked under and it oil pan was leaking pretty good...drip..........drip..........drip..........drip
but back infront of his house it wasnt hardly leaking??

-Front panels are fine, really no issues..no rust, one small dent on hood. bumper was dented. engine bay was dirty and could use a de-greasing but looked fine after 30 yrs.

-Windshield/Windshield frame was orig and still good, very little surface rust, wipers worked, glass had permanent white film along the bottom?

-Electrical system seems good, he did say the horn doesnt work but on my test drive it worked just fine.? also said the rear pass light isnt working as of recent (flickers sometimes) Even had a radio and speakers that worked well

-Hardtop seemed great, surface rust in pic really isnt that bad, no headliner, white top looked great, all original paint. all orig glass fine, window seals seem ok but could use a replacement though

-Doors seemed decent, driver had very little rust, pass latch didnt work (cant open from outside)

-Now the Ambi door are a different story...the bottoms were really badly rusted and pass side was dented in but they both open and close.
-All door seals were either bad or missing, deffinetly some air flow, noise and rattling as it drives.

-Tub...I would say is shot, Id either be spending ~2k(+welding labor) to replace all the different panels or ~4k on a new tub!
The floors, driver, pass and tub floors werent to bad though, def some repair work and preventative maint. has been done but not rusted through. roll bar mounts were starting to rust pretty bad and 1 mount was barely even attached anymore.

-Frame had srtong surface rust but i didnt see any damaged spots, looked fine.

-wheels are all orig. and he has 6 of them, no caps though.
spare on the back is the orig spare that he said he used for 2 months, no cracking/dryrot at all. 6th was recently given to him buy wifes friend, looks like the spare orig.

think thats all I can remember, he said he didnt realize the interior rust was as bad as it is, esp the roll bar. and had NO CLUE as to how expensive it is to replace a tub, so after a few others interested walked away becuase of the rust and then me telling him how much a tub would cost, he was absolutely shocked, he said he though they would only be a couple hundred, I wish!! he know says hes not expecting to get what hes asking.
(BTW if CL post doesnt work, hes asking $3k)


...What would you offer??


thanks for your time all,
Sean
 
If you were to pay 3K for it and had to replace the tub to the tune of a possible 4K...that's 7K (i good at math:)), and that is not even the labor or paint work. I feel you should be able to find a much nicer 40 for not much more than 7K that would be in WAY better shape. Now if you are wanting a wheelin rig and your gonna cut the hell out of it, then go for it.
 
I'm with BJ44, if it's something you are going to restore find a $4-5,000 dollar rig and start with that. If it's something to wheel with give him $1,500 and call it a day. I bought a non running 40 for $1,700.00 and now have over 10 in it including the purchase price. It's not complete but will be what I want when finnished.
 
sorry i dont have any more pics then what are on the site, forgot camera....

few more kinks to throw into the mix,

-hes willing to take $1000 maybe a little less
(he said he had someone offer him 1k, but i think he was just trying to see if he could get at least 1k out of me being that his previous viewer stories kept adding and changing)

-its inspected till july 09, he said he will not put another penny in to it, with the rust i dont imagine it passing again, i dont know though dont know a whole lot about how inspections deal with rust.

-he said once inspection is up, it goes to the scrap yard if not sold, doesnt want it in front of his house anymore, neighbors dont either.

even though i havent offered him anything yet he says im at the top of the list cause "i seems like ill enjoy it as much as he has over the years.


I just spoke with Lance at IPOR for 45 mins, great guy btw, about it and possible outcomes, he said he can work with me to get it to pass inspection as well as future fixes, If I do get it im gonna take it down to him for an eval. since hes only 30 mins from me.
i guess my biggest concern is if i can get back what i pay to buy it, that is if i cant afford all that will need to at least pass inspection.

thanks again for all the comments.



LOL...s c r a p is filtered, bad word?
 
Give me his number I will give him 1000 for it and go get it this weekend.....seriously.
 
It's a 78 so it does have parts that you can resell fairly easily like the 4 spd, xfer case, front disc axle and misc body parts. If the rust is workable I'd offer 750 and take off. You should be able to get your money out of it if you part it out. If you want a project to work on for years to come and not worry about money etc then buy it, if your worried about how much it's going to cost for parts, repairs etc then leave it for someone else. These rigs have a tendency to find your wallet, iykwim
 
I'm with BJ44, if it's something you are going to restore find a $4-5,000 dollar rig and start with that. If it's something to wheel with give him $1,500 and call it a day. I bought a non running 40 for $1,700.00 and now have over 10 in it including the purchase price. It's not complete but will be what I want when finnished.

x2. i have $8800 into mine now, and still dont have a rolling chassis. almost there tho! i figure ill have $14k into mine when its done, but it will be built by me and what i want and wont have to change anything or have any regrets besides all the money i have spent but i will have one bad ass 40.
 
$1000?!?!?! for a nice running rig with some work to do? Better snag it before someone else does at $1000. It's perfect... give him the money, drive it home, make some room in the garage and get to work!
 
TAKE IT NOW... 1k is nothing. You can part it, and triple your money.
If I lived in that area, this thing would be gone.

Find a used tub, (they come around a few times a year) then work on the used tub, while driving the 40 working out the mechanicals.

Its obvious you are willing to take on a project since you didnt run away from it initially.

I say go for it.
 
Im definitely willing to take on a project, I know it will take a while and will cost a lot, 1k sounded good to me, i guess i just needed that little push
thanks all, ill be picking it up on friday, and then ill post up some pics.


one more quick question...
the hardtop has never been taken off...if I take it off, should i expect more rust issues and a worthless seal or the other way around?
 
pics

looking forward to the pics as the ad has expired

oil pan seal is pretty easy but there is a trick or two that will help keep you from tearing it on the install---post up when you go to do it or search on it

the smoke from under the hood is prolly just from sitting or burning off a small leak or spill if there wasnt anything obvious


Best of luck with it :cheers:
 
If it were closer, I would have already bought it out from under you !!!!!!! Just kidding, I would have told you first, then I would go buy it.
 
I wouldn't go any higher then $1000. And be ready to dump lots of time and money into it. At least you'll have a big o' smile on your face the whole time.
 
thanks for the continued comments, was hoping to go pick it up today as Ill be busy the rest of this weekend, cant get the seller on his phone and starting to get pissed/concerned since he knew id be calling today...well see what happens.
 
looking forward to the pics as the ad has expired

oil pan seal is pretty easy but there is a trick or two that will help keep you from tearing it on the install---post up when you go to do it or search on it

the smoke from under the hood is prolly just from sitting or burning off a small leak or spill if there wasnt anything obvious


Best of luck with it :cheers:


I hope its only an oil pan leak, lance at IPOR mentioned a few things it could be when we spoke the other day...rear main seal...:frown:

I plan on taking it to him soon after i get it for his evaluation service.

any thoughts on the hardtop question, anyone?

-Sean
 

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