Builds The Forbidden FJ60 (Story+Build Thread) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Beehanger

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Threads
90
Messages
810
Location
Idaho
Introduction and Backstory

I’ve decided to start a thread for my cruiser build, and continue my story here, which I'm calling the Forbidden FJ60. Some of you know my story which I've posted throughout my time here, but in general I’m currently on year two of trying to turn an unlikely land cruiser story --seemingly doomed from the start --- into a big victory. I'm probably know as the guy who did what most would tell you unequivocally not to do: buying a questionable land cruiser at 23 with no mechanical experience, no major disposable income, and no other vehicles. Now 25, My whole life for the last two years has been the ultimate test of biting off more than you can chew and still chewing it because it matters that much to you.

(If you want to know more on my Land cruiser story, read the hilarious and insightful comments, and the crazy turns up until now, its all within this thread): Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/advice-on-whether-i-should-buy-a-land-cruiser.1227794/page-17#post-14906033

Logic and society would say I should have quit a long time ago and let the vintage land cruiser remain forbidden to inexperienced young bucks in our declining society where hardworking men and dirty jobs are somehow becoming taboo. You get your dream car when you’re older and have another vehicle, that’s what the status quo has always said. But I did all of these forbidden things anyway, and was constantly told I’m been doing things backwards and mistaken. But I've had a breakthrough, am now on better footing as I have a place to do the build, a cool job as a result, and have discovered things about myself by not quitting on it.

I think that's why this is worth talking about: for my own sanity to get it out, but as a reference for those who may want to follow after. This is an experiment: can a :banana: or MAYBE :banana::banana:really baseline their rig with limited help after two years of face punches? and the suffering hasn't stopped and I doubt it will fully anytime soon. Let me tell you future young bucks, I have really suffered for this decision even though I had a hunch. And there’s probably a good reason I was warned not to do it by everyone in my life and over half of the forum guys. From my life position it was simply senseless to do something like this to almost all outside views and even in my own logic. But the sufferings been worth it! and as for outside views, but I desperately needed a place to dig my heels in, and happened to pick one of the harder scenarios to do that in.

So maybe I chose wrenching and cruisers an experiment in irony, a dream I couldn’t let die, or a **** you to society, but all I know is I saw a very distant bright spot in a sea of darkness, and a challenge that had meaning. I now know if you really have something like this that you feel you HAVE to do, even if you’re bad at it, if you get hit in the face harder and for longer than you thought was humanly possible and don’t lay down, eventually you will outlast it.

Now I’m in the arena, with a mechanic shop to work in, just enough finances and in person help to keep the project going, and a history to work off of. The rigs still not running yet, but I’ve outlasted a very brutal storm, have had a few months to study and can now take on the storm of actually working on the rig with a greater chance of success.

Now, to the build and how I'll write about it:

In short, I have an 85’ fj60, I’m reassembling my 2f engine, replacing all lost parts as I go to reinstall everything, and rough baseline my rig to make it roadworthy. This is an uncertain experience even though I am now on good enough footing to post a build thread on it. The build isn’t done yet, I’m still getting hit in the face and not out of the woods yet, but at least I have the bandwidth to write about it and ask questions in a non chaotic manner. I'm really starting to finally have FUN now, and have some chops to bite things off knowing I'll figure it out.


***There will be technical postings and questions asked, but this is also a psychological/existential dive into the process of fixing a land cruiser, from my perspective as the underdog. That’s really what this build will be about. Maybe someone will get something out of it and add to it in the discussion. But if nothing else this is just an outlet. All my cash and bandwidth has and is going into getting this rig running again, and I’ve had to make it my central purpose. Currently I’m trying to be present and remind myself to take it one step at a time, since the journey ought to be the goal in itself as well. Hopefully this thread will help me do that and anyone else out there going out on a hunch won’t have to go through starting out as harshly as I have and still am **






P.S. Thank you to all on this forum who have helped me and offered your insights and support, you are a big part of the reason I haven't given up and got into it in the first place.

Sincerely,

Dan

IMG_7894.PNG


IMG_7895.PNG
 
April 1 Friday 1:25 AM, Somewhere in snowy ass Idaho:

Why isn't it spring yet?

I'm attaching things back on the 2F, which has NOT been an easy task mainly becuase of the staying power required to focus, it is a different kind of energy. I wish I could just go and use all my strength to fix it but its not a gym workout or a ditch that needs to be doug. I’m in my place of work afterhours ( a mechanic shop I do marketing for), and my engine is awaiting installation of the exhaust/intake manifold. I got the fuel pump and two mounts on two nights ago. Will post some pictures tomorrow

Incremental progress is still progress.

Any advice on throwing on the manifold? I'm trying to get it on there WITHOUT a vaccum leak the first couple tries if possible.....

I might pracice with my s***ty gasket before I use the remflex I was recommended to buy, I'm assuming once put on you get one try at it as it flattens or am I wrong? I also might but globs of red RTV to mate the two manifolds in between the gaskets and insulator as there are some gaps on the surfaces. Curious people's thoughts


Dan

IMG_7897.PNG


IMG_7896.PNG
 
The remflex gaskets will take up those gaps. Don’t use rtv on the remflex.

As far as mounting the intake and exhaust manifolds goes, you can put them together off the truck, but keep the bolts that hold them together loose enough to move the two halves around. Then you can get the thing temporarily mounted to the engine. Having the two loose will help you get everything aligned. Before you torque it to the engine torque the halves together and then torque it to the engine. Then connect the exhaust from there.
 
The remflex gaskets will take up those gaps. Don’t use rtv on the remflex.

As far as mounting the intake and exhaust manifolds goes, you can put them together off the truck, but keep the bolts that hold them together loose enough to move the two halves around. Then you can get the thing temporarily mounted to the engine. Having the two loose will help you get everything aligned. Before you torque it to the engine torque the halves together and then torque it to the engine. Then connect the exhaust from there.
K thanks. Should I use rtv for in between the manifolds? Both sides of gaskets and insulator??
 
No rtv for normal install. If you have gaps between the 2 manifolds that the gasket doesn’t fill: fix it properly or look why. Warped? Cracked? Need to clean off baked on old gasket still?

If your engine is out, I usually loosely bolt the intake and exhaust together so it can still move a little, then snug the assembly to the head with no gasket, tighten the intake to exhaust bolts. Then take it off and install with the gasket. Mind the remflex torque spec: don’t just gorilla it on there.
 
No rtv for normal install. If you have gaps between the 2 manifolds that the gasket doesn’t fill: fix it properly or look why. Warped? Cracked? Need to clean off baked on old gasket still?

If your engine is out, I usually loosely bolt the intake and exhaust together so it can still move a little, then snug the assembly to the head with no gasket, tighten the intake to exhaust bolts. Then take it off and install with the gasket. Mind the remflex torque spec: don’t just gorilla it on there.

so don;t use the 29-37 ft lbs recommended? what would you recommend for the remflex?



Dan
 
so don;t use the 29-37 ft lbs recommended? what would you recommend for the remflex?



Dan
What remflex recommends on the package.
 
What remflex recommends on the package

Will do,... I'm not realizing though some studs and other bolts that aren't touching gaskets I'm missing torque specs for. Someone on here I believe posted the torque specs front cover of one of the manuals. does anyone recall a place where torque specs for these would live?

Dan

ununun.jpg
 
Having issues turning the crank to get to TDC

The fuel pump has been installed, and I think that's creating the friction. Should I uninstall and reinstall?
Also, Is it bad I rotated the crank the wrong way a few weeks ago? I don't think that could be part of my problem.
Thanks
Dan
 
The fuel pump should be installed with a spacer. Does yours have one?

Is your cam and timing chain installed? If everything is installed correctly it should not matter forward or reverse by hand
 
Last edited:
Will do,... I'm not realizing though some studs and other bolts that aren't touching gaskets I'm missing torque specs for. Someone on here I believe posted the torque specs front cover of one of the manuals. does anyone recall a place where torque specs for these would live?
The 1985 2F-3F FSM has a pretty complete set of torque specs. There are torque call-outs in the service specifications section and standard bolt torque specs for fasteners that don't have a torque call-out in the back of the FSM too.
Also, do I get one shot with the gaskets? once down they're pressed right?
That's the best practice. You can sometimes get away with mocking up and not torquing a gasket fully. Remflex are supposed to be good in that regard, but I don't know from first-hand experience with Remflex.


The 2F intake & exhaust manifolds are tricky because they use the same studs in a couple locations, so they need to be the same height, and pretty flat to seal correctly/apply even torque.

Having issues turning the crank to get to TDC

The fuel pump has been installed, and I think that's creating the friction. Should I uninstall and reinstall?
Also, Is it bad I rotated the crank the wrong way a few weeks ago? I don't think that could be part of my problem.
Thanks
Dan
The engine should turn over smoothly. There will be some resistance, but it should be relatively even (without spark plugs in). Remove parts you added since last verifying it turned over well, inspect (correct parts, no damage), verify it turns over without parts installed, re-apply assembly lube if necessary, reinstall, retry turning-over. Best practice is to only turn engine in direction it normally spins, but I've done it on occasion and haven't broken anything yet.

The later FSMs seem to have more specs. Look in the resources tab
 
The fuel pump should be installed with a spacer. Does yours have one?

Is your cam and timing chain installed? If everything is installed correctly it should not matter forward or reverse by hand

No timing chain in a 2F. Just cam gear and crank gear.
 
Are the spark plugs installed in the head? If so, then removing them allows air to evacuate the cylinders making it easier to turn over.

Do you have a tool for grabbing the ring gear on the flywheel? That’s how I turn my engine over.

Amazon product ASIN B001CZJ4J0
Well worth owning that tool right there… you’ll use it more than you realize.
 
Are the spark plugs installed in the head? If so, then removing them allows air to evacuate the cylinders making it easier to turn over.

Do you have a tool for grabbing the ring gear on the flywheel? That’s how I turn my engine over.

Amazon product ASIN B001CZJ4J0
Well worth owning that tool right there… you’ll use it more than you realize.
Those tools are handy, but I think his engine is still on a stand without the ring gear attached. In that case he should be able to use the crank bolt. When I am adjusting valves, I rotate the engine via the V-belts by turning the nut that holds on the alternator pulley. I first remove all the spark plugs. and my engine is "worn in". Having the spark plugs removed does make it easier to spin and makes it easier to stop right at TDC on the compression stroke. With the plug installed the engine has a tendency to "roll off" TDC because of the compression pushing the piston back down.
 
Those tools are handy, but I think his engine is still on a stand without the ring gear attached. In that case he should be able to use the crank bolt. When I am adjusting valves, I rotate the engine via the V-belts by turning the nut that holds on the alternator pulley. I first remove all the spark plugs. and my engine is "worn in". Having the spark plugs removed does make it easier to spin and makes it easier to stop right at TDC on the compression stroke. With the plug installed the engine has a tendency to "roll off" TDC because of the compression pushing the piston back down.
Can’t put it at TDC without the flywheel in place. Well, you could, but how would you know without the indexing bb and bellhousing needle for reference?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom