Builds The Forbidden FJ60 (Story+Build Thread) (1 Viewer)

[2mbb]

but these bolts were 10 and 14mm…. Not 6 and 10.

Generally, when the manual talks about bolt size, they are referring to the diameter of the threaded portion not the size of the bolt head. Your torque values correlate with the values in the 2F engine manual.

 

[Beehanger]

Looks pretty good from that photo. Generally with the cork gaskets you want to stop torquing when you start to see the gasket bulge a little bit. If you tighten too much past that it will split the cork.

I would avoid turning the engine backwards. The bearings settle in with the engine turning in one direction. Reversing that direction can cause damage to the bearings. The crank shaft is ground and polished in the direction the engine is turning and it causes tiny microscopic burs. Think of turning the crank backwards like petting a cat backwards. The hairs get caught in your fingers and you mess up the hairs. Now imagine you do that on a microscopic level with the metal. It acts more like sandpaper. You’ll probably be fine but I would avoid that as much as possible in the future.

Also, I think you defiantly have raw cast iron there. I’d think about painting it before you drop it in.

The front of the engine? Or the sides? I did notice little surface rust on the sides of the head—- assuming this cannot happen if it’s painted or enameled on any way?

 

[Beehanger]

Looks pretty good from that photo. Generally with the cork gaskets you want to stop torquing when you start to see the gasket bulge a little bit. If you tighten too much past that it will split the cork.

I would avoid turning the engine backwards. The bearings settle in with the engine turning in one direction. Reversing that direction can cause damage to the bearings. The crank shaft is ground and polished in the direction the engine is turning and it causes tiny microscopic burs. Think of turning the crank backwards like petting a cat backwards. The hairs get caught in your fingers and you mess up the hairs. Now imagine you do that on a microscopic level with the metal. It acts more like sandpaper. You’ll probably be fine but I would avoid that as much as possible in the future.

Also, I think you defiantly have raw cast iron there. I’d think about painting it before you drop it in.

In terms of the fuel pump, will it break the internal arm against the cam turning it backwards??

Also, for painting, can I use an enamel on this section after all is attached on, or is a brush paint better since all the Parts are on.,

Dan

 

[2mbb]

I think it is unlikely that the fuel pump arm would break off if the engine/cam is rotated backwards. The cam lobe for the fuel pump is just an off center circle and the arm moves in and out. But if you think there is a chance it is broken, then take off the pump and look. It is only two bolts.

I'll say again, if there is not a spacer/insulator installed then there is a chance you did break the fuel pump arm by rotating the engine.

 

[Beehanger]

I think it is unlikely that the fuel pump arm would break off if the engine/cam is rotated backwards. The cam lobe for the fuel pump is just an off center circle and the arm moves in and out. But if you think there is a chance it is broken, then take off the pump and look. It is only two bolts.

I'll say again, if there is not a spacer/insulator installed then there is a chance you did break the fuel pump arm by rotating the engine.

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Spacer is on, think I’ll be good. Thx!

 

[Beehanger]

Looks pretty good from that photo. Generally with the cork gaskets you want to stop torquing when you start to see the gasket bulge a little bit. If you tighten too much past that it will split the cork.

I would avoid turning the engine backwards. The bearings settle in with the engine turning in one direction. Reversing that direction can cause damage to the bearings. The crank shaft is ground and polished in the direction the engine is turning and it causes tiny microscopic burs. Think of turning the crank backwards like petting a cat backwards. The hairs get caught in your fingers and you mess up the hairs. Now imagine you do that on a microscopic level with the metal. It acts more like sandpaper. You’ll probably be fine but I would avoid that as much as possible in the future.

Also, I think you defiantly have raw cast iron there. I’d think about painting it before you drop it in.

raw castiron just on the front right?

 

[subzali]

The sides, front, and back of your engine block and head looks to be raw metal. You will want to paint it with high temperature engine enamel spray paint before installing back in the vehicle. Any exposed surface that is not a sealing surface.

 

[cps432]

raw castiron just on the front right?

The whole engine needs to be painted. Spray paint will work for a little while, but you really need to degrease it, clean the hell out of it with acetone, then carefully use a blow torch to draw any oil and moisture out of the metal. Keep cleaning it with acetone and drying it with a torch until the surface wipes clean. I would use a rusty metal primer and an engine enamel.

I’m currently painting mine and I’m using Rustoleum rusty metal primer and oil based enamel. I’m brushing it on. I’m not a fan of spray paint these days. It looks good for a few months until it begins to peel. Spray paint has a lot of extra solvents designed to thin the paint and make it dry faster. It’s convenient, but doesn’t give the same level of protection as the brush on formula.

If you have access to a professional spray booth system you open the doors to a lot more options as far as quality paint goes.

Don’t paint the surfaces where gaskets seal or you will likely have leaks.

 

[Beehanger]

The whole engine needs to be painted. Spray paint will work for a little while, but you really need to degrease it, clean the hell out of it with acetone, then carefully use a blow torch to draw any oil and moisture out of the metal. Keep cleaning it with acetone and drying it with a torch until the surface wipes clean. I would use a rusty metal primer and an engine enamel.

I’m currently painting mine and I’m using Rustoleum rusty metal primer and oil based enamel. I’m brushing it on. I’m not a fan of spray paint these days. It looks good for a few months until it begins to peel. Spray paint has a lot of extra solvents designed to thin the paint and make it dry faster. It’s convenient, but doesn’t give the same level of protection as the brush on formula.

If you have access to a professional spray booth system you open the doors to a lot more options as far as quality paint goes.

Don’t paint the surfaces where gaskets seal or you will likely have leaks.

Is it cool if I paint with everything attached on?

 

[cps432]

Is it cool if I paint with everything attached on?

Just tape things off with blue painter’s tape after you’ve cleaned it. If I’m not mistaken Toyota sprayed enamel on them after assembly. Many engine rebuilders do that. I’d avoid getting paint on the cork and paper gaskets as much as possible.

 

[Beehanger]

Just tape things off with blue painter’s tape after you’ve cleaned it. If I’m not mistaken Toyota sprayed enamel on them after assembly. Many engine rebuilders do that. I’d avoid getting paint on the cork and paper gaskets as much as possible.

Engine mounted yesterday! Had to rest he’d strap the tranny over cause of that dented crossmembe, will have to replace asap… I Put on tstat today and my coworker pulled the cat and welded a resonator on. Will be awesome sounding! Cut the carb sensor in the process (do I need this sensor? so far so good

Beehanger


Dan

 

[Godwin]

Engine mounted yesterday! Had to rest he’d strap the tranny over cause of that dented crossmembe, will have to replace asap… I Put on tstat today and my coworker pulled the cat and welded a resonator on. Will be awesome sounding! Cut the carb sensor in the process (do I need this sensor? so far so good

Beehanger


Dan

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Would you post 2-3 photos of your transmission crossmember? I'd like to see how much it is dented and bent. These things are stout and it'd take a good hit to damage one.

 

[Skreddy]

Getting harder to paint that raw cast iron engine the more you assemble it….

 

[Beehanger]

 

[Beehanger]

Would you post 2-3 photos of your transmission crossmember? I'd like to see how much it is dented and bent. These things are stout and it'd take a good hit to damage one.

 

[Beehanger]

Is this a Toyota part?? Dust blocker for the fj60?? Had it laying around in my stuff, they sent some parts that weren’t for my vehicle

 

[Beehanger]

Is this a Toyota part?? Dust blocker for the fj60?? Had it laying around in my stuff, they sent some parts that weren’t for my vehicle

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More progress made yesterday, I adjusted the valves to get it close to where it needs to be.

Separate questions:
1 Do you have to drop the gas tank to access the PCV vent valve? I ordered one from Toyota as the mechanic helping me thought it would be the cause of my fueling problems. I can only get a falling of gas in at a time….

2 we hacked off the cat, and put a resonator there on its stead. When we did so we cut through the cat sensor! Does this matter, and does it need to be replaced somehow? Where Is the “sensor” everyone refers to on these pigs or is this the one?

Dan

 

[Godwin]

More progress made yesterday, I adjusted the valves to get it close to where it needs to be.

Separate questions:
1 Do you have to drop the gas tank to access the PCV vent valve? I ordered one from Toyota as the mechanic helping me thought it would be the cause of my fueling problems. I can only get a falling of gas in at a time….

2 we hacked off the cat, and put a resonator there on its stead. When we did so we cut through the cat sensor! Does this matter, and does it need to be replaced somehow? Where Is the “sensor” everyone refers to on these pigs or is this the one?

Dan

View attachment 3304732

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The PCV mounts in the side of the side cover in that short tubular extension that does a 90 degree up turn.

 

[Beehanger]

The PCV mounts in the side of the side cover in that short tubular extension that does a 90 degree up turn.

like the interior side cover? Which are you referring to?

No need to drop the fuel tank??

 

[gbogh]

On the left side of this picture is the little tube from the side cover that was mentioned......it goes there
View attachment 445499

The (pushrod) side cover of the engine. No need to drop the tank.