The diary of Oddie... bigger..better..stronger (7 Viewers)

[davegonz]

I couldn't make out any part numbers on the lower hose. But here is what it looks like and the part numbers to the upper hose. Also, you can call John Brassier at Proffitts and he can tell (and probably sell) you the hose that they use. I have bought parts from them at good prices.

 

[davegonz]

Top ones for reference.

 

[djinn]

GLTHFJ60: That part 91651‑60830, ended up being just the bolt. So the bushing they said I can't get.. His lame response was "comes with the radiator" So I calling another Toyota dealership.

Dave: Thanks for the pics. My water necks come out differently since they are the dodge ones and not the 4bt ones. The lower is perpendicular to the frame is 2.25" whereas the 4bt stock one is angled down and forward and I think is 1.75".

I was sorta against the idea on flex but now I'm sorta digging it. Very strong and will not collapse. Ended up finding it for $34 shipped so took the locally bought $54 one back Every dollar helps.

If I can't get the dealership to help on the bushing, I will try a radiator shop and see if they have some laying around that will work.

This was the best diagram I could find: http://www.man-a-fre.com/explodedview/coolingsystemrelatedfj60.htm but it only references the bolt (B) 91651-60830. Guess that is what I get for somehow losing it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

GLTHFJ60: That part 91651‑60830, ended up being just the bolt. So the bushing they said I can't get.. His lame response was "comes with the radiator" So I calling another Toyota dealership.

Dave: Thanks for the pics. My water necks come out differently since they are the dodge ones and not the 4bt ones. The lower is perpendicular to the frame is 2.25" whereas the 4bt stock one is angled down and forward and I think is 1.75".

I was sorta against the idea on flex but now I'm sorta digging it. Very strong and will not collapse. Ended up finding it for $34 shipped so took the locally bought $54 one back Every dollar helps.

If I can't get the dealership to help on the bushing, I will try a radiator shop and see if they have some laying around that will work.

This was the best diagram I could find: http://www.man-a-fre.com/explodedview/coolingsystemrelatedfj60.htm but it only references the bolt (B) 91651-60830. Guess that is what I get for somehow losing it.

Damn, sorry about that man Just double checked the EPC and that's the only part referenced, same as MAF.

 

[davegonz]

Update?

 

[davegonz]

Update?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Updates??

 

[CruisinFJ60]

It has a tapped gearbox for ram assist off my truggy.. lol

 

[djinn]

updates! YAY! Exhaust

Sorry for the lack of updates. I'll be better
So I put it up on the trailer and headed out to the exhaust shop. The guys did a great job. 3" back and into a flowmaster and then tips out driver-side. It sounds really great and once I get the hood on, I'll know how loud to turn up the music

 

[djinn]

tapped box from Trent

Yup, I do indeed have a tapped box now from Trent (Thanks Trent!). Just looped one of the lines since I didn't have caps (until I get the ram mounted).

This is how she sits currently

My next concern is shocks. I'm not sure if the exhaust is in my way or not for the rear. He ran it right under the factory mount point. I'll have to do an angle so it may be ok. Anyone have suggestions (and pics) on mounting the rear shocks and recommendations on shocks. Looks like doetsch or bilsteins. I know a lot of SOA rigs with 4BTs have bilsteins, especially if Proffitt's did them.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Anyone have suggestions (and pics) on mounting the rear shocks and recommendations on shocks. Looks like doetsch or bilsteins. I know a lot of SOA rigs with 4BTs have bilsteins, especially if Proffitt's did them.

Bla bla bla. I'll come over and make something off the shelf work and look nice. F all that special order stuff if you dont have to.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

My next concern is shocks. I'm not sure if the exhaust is in my way or not for the rear. He ran it right under the factory mount point. I'll have to do an angle so it may be ok. Anyone have suggestions (and pics) on mounting the rear shocks and recommendations on shocks. Looks like doetsch or bilsteins. I know a lot of SOA rigs with 4BTs have bilsteins, especially if Proffitt's did them.

Exhaust does look to be in the way, but no way to know for sure without getting up in there.

I like using Sky's lower shock mounts. Beefy, easy to hold up and weld on. Pick up a couple of these and see what's gonna work!

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=169

 

[trribleuno]

Damn!!

It's looking gorgeous! Can't believe how jealous this is making me. Wondering if you could list where and exactly what kind of paint you got on there. I believe you mentioned something previously in the thread about it being military grade... How'd you get that connection?

 

[djinn]

@Trent, I'm game! Wonder if I can retain the mount points on the ubolt plates or if welding onto the axle is better for longer straighter shocks.

@GLTHFJ60: I like those, but sorta expensive for what they are. But would be quick and easy. Just not sure what way mounting is best. I *could* always go tell the guys to scoot the exhaust over. They may curse and carry on. I could always weld a new point though. I would rather do that than trailering it back over there.

@trribleuno: Thanks for the compliment. It's not a secret spray. It's Speedliner with kevlar added. It's pretty awesome and as long as the person spraying it will use the fine tip and go slow, it will look good. Either way, it's a bedliner and won't be "kandy purdy" but functional.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Have to be axle mounted for anything worth a damn.

 

[djinn]

cleaning out the tank

So went around the neighborhood tonight and on the way back it died.. luckily I coasted all the way home and into my driveway (was lucky and came home downhill. I've drained and cleaned my tank but I still seem to have some junk in it that is too large and clogs the line or something. I ended up putting a large magnet up on the tank by the suction lines and all is good. I'll pull that to the drain hole and drain the tank. Probably will pull it and get it dunked.

This is a fresh inline filter I put on last Friday:

Clean that tank, you diesel.. you...

Next, not sure if I routed my heater hoses incorrectly or not, the thermostat opens but when I turn the heat on inside, it doesn't get hot. I swear it did before I routed these. Anyone see anything a miss?

Hard to tell but in the picture below, the return line from the firewall above the turbo but closest to the manifold goes around and into the lower waterneck (you can see it to the left of the alternator wires).

 

[davegonz]

Wasn't there a fuel tank recall with the 60s?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wasn't there a fuel tank recall with the 60s?

There was. It'd definitely be worth checking to see if it was done. Definitely some rust in that tank.


Are you intending to keep the rear heater? I don't remember how that hooked into the system, I got rid of mine.

For me, line from radiator feed goes to heater valve, line from radiator return goes to core below valve. Blows super hot.

 

[djinn]

Pretty sure I had called and checked a few years ago and they said it had been replaced. I bought a new float level for the gauge. I definitely have some crap in there that has to come out.

@GLTHFJ60: I looked at your pics.. maybe I will get rid of the tee. When I had it hooked up to just the heater valve it got hot. But figured keeping the rear heater would be ok. May ditch it though.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Both my 60's and my 42 all had rear heat. only Fiona still has a working fan tho, unless Joel fixed the one in the 42