Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

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Only a minor update tonight, but that's about all I can muster until spring rolls around.

A couple weeks ago, I was driving my truck and realized that the engine temperature gauge would plummet instantly in cold weather while moving, then return to "normal" after an extended idle (ie: a long stop light). Thinking this behavior was strange, I decided to investigate. I discovered that my temperature gauge had been lying to me for 3 years. My wonderful PO had installed a GM sending unit into an air passageway at the back of my intake manifold, behind the carb.

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So for 3 years my temperature gauge had been getting air temperature measurements from an incompatible sender...which ironically had been reading virtually "normal" in most conditions.

I had to place an order from Advance Adapters for my upcoming engine re-swap, so I ordered a GM 1/2in NPT to 1/8in BSPT adapter to hook up a Toyota sending unit in a water passage where it belongs. I also picked up a new IR thermometer, which I will use to confirm the new temperature readings.

After battling with a frozen pipe plug in the sender hole for 3 evenings, a coolant geyser confirmed I had indeed located a water passage. After I cleaned up the mess, I installed the adapter bushing:

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Then put some ARP liquid thread sealer on the sender:

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And installed:


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I'm surprised the adapter bushing doesn't sit lower in the threaded hole than it does. However, I wouldn't dare push it any farther. I was putting what I would already consider too much pressure on the bushing trying to screw it in that far. It is actually seated with about as much (or more) thread engagement as the pipe plug had, and it LOOKS like it should be seated low enough to allow the sender's base to be submerged properly. I guess we will see!

All that's left is cutting the old GM sender connector, and running an wire extension out across the intake. It'll be ugly, but hopefully effective. Unfortunately, I have my my buddy's soldering iron back after last winter's major wiring project. As luck would have it, I found a Weller soldering iron sitting in a "electronics for recycling" bin at work today...so I snagged it. I plugged it in at my desk and it seems to get plenty hot. I'm sure it was tossed for a reason, but I'm not going to argue with a free soldering iron...I'm going to try and get some use out of it!
 
lol @ POs

umm, while you're at it, you may want to fix one more thing - that radiator hose is working its way through the valve cover T bolt.... soon, it will succeed in cutting itself in half.... most likely when you're a long distance from help. Bright side is your temperature gauge will fall to nothing and you'll know you're out of coolant :)
 
lol @ POs

umm, while you're at it, you may want to fix one more thing - that radiator hose is working its way through the valve cover T bolt.... soon, it will succeed in cutting itself in half.... most likely when you're a long distance from help. Bright side is your temperature gauge will fall to nothing and you'll know you're out of coolant :)

I don't like how the heater hoses are routed either, but that one is the perfect wrong length...You either have to stretch it around the inside of the bolt, or compress it inside the bolt. Either way, it's not ideal and the hose is "riding the bolt." Those hoses will likely be getting replaced and re-routed when the engine comes out in spring. Until then, it can ride where it has ridden for as long as I've owned it, and where the PO had it for god knows how long. This truck is never a long distance from help, as it never makes it more than about 5 miles from my garage...
 
Wrap that hose with a section of old hose slit on the side. Let the extra layer take the abuse.
 
Makes me wanna wrench again. Been putting it off too long.
 
Makes me wanna wrench again. Been putting it off too long.

Yeah I'm going more than a bit stir crazy. I have this big project in the spring looming, and a garage to finish in the meantime, and it's too cold to do anything but sit around and wait, knock out little projects like this one.
 
Been traveling a lot for work. I've slowly been saving my pennies for the big project coming up, but I did finally get a chance to hook up the new sending unit and test it out today.

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I fired up the truck and let it idle for about 15min. Temperature, according to my new IR thermometer (not sure how accurate) and the heads seem to hold about 175-180 degrees (I have a 190 degree T-stat).

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The intake by the sending unit holds about 170.

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This equates to just beneath the first mark on the temperature gauge:

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So, if anyone is wondering, it seems like the first hash mark equates to about 175 degrees.

It help pretty steady there. It's running a bit cool at idle but nothing I'm particularly concerned about. Haven't had it out driving around yet to see how it holds temperature under load with the big, cowel-less mechanical fan providing air cooling.

Nothing difficult, special, or exciting - just one more check box on the list of PO problems I've had to fix.
 
Not land cruiser related, but also spent the morning with my father in law at a car show in town. A club memver's wife opened up a bakery so they brought the fleet down to build some awareness.

Cool cars abounded:

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This belongs to a family friend, Bruce. Not really my style but it is a marvel of engineering.

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Family friend Dave's Scout:

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Always had a soft spot for these trucks, though I still prefer my 40 :)

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Father-in-law's Bel Air, and Dave's scout.

Obviously this is more of a "rat rod" crew than a hotrodder/off-roader club, but I still love the cars.

Anyway, back to twiddling my thumbs until warmer weather and a fatter cruiser fund.

Still targeting the April/May timeframe as long as I can get the garage spackled and painted.
 
When Dave isn't looking you need to liberate the steering gear box from the Scout II.

Just kidding. I came real close, at one time, to buying the four cylinder predecessor to the Scout II.

Don
 
When Dave isn't looking you need to liberate the steering gear box from the Scout II.

Just kidding. I came real close, at one time, to buying the four cylinder predecessor to the Scout II.

Don

There's an old scout for sales at a gas station near my parents' house. Needs a lot of work, and the guy wants too much money for it, but I definitely stopped by and asked. I like them for the same reason I like the FJ40 - just bare bones utilitarian.
 
Not much new to report. I've been putting some miles on the Clustertruck in an effort to "shake out" and additional issues I can find. I've probably put about 50mi on it this week, and just found one:



I've notice over the last few days that my idle was getting progressively stranger. First it would idle high at red lights, and now today when I drove it home, it would barely idle at all, stumbling down around 500rpm like you see above.

Unrelated: look at all the blow by through my breathers. I don't have a PCV valve but I imagine that's probably not a good sign.

Anyway -

I found pretty quickly that if I covered the air intake, idle improved drastically:



Some spraying with carb cleaner around the baseplate gasket found the problem pretty much immediately. Baseplate gasket is leaking like a sieve.

Any idea why this would just start happening in the past week? It's a brand new (rebuilt) carb so I'm hoping it's not already warped. I was careful not to overtorqe the manifold bolts.

Base gasket is also new, with the carb.

Any thoughts?

About at my wits end with quadrajets!
 
thick or thin gasket? cheap or not-so-cheap? I've found that thick gaskets without spacers are a bear to get to seal correctly....

Hey @SuperBuickGuy - I was hoping you'd chime in! The gasket, I believe, is the "thick" version (about 1/4in). It was supplied with the Sean Murphy Inductions Quadrajet. It's one of the completely open-plenum gaskets with plastic support "eyes" around the bolt holes. Looks very similar to the one I took off with the previous quadrajet. However, when Cliff Ruggles (another Qjet guru) sent me the rebuild kit of my previous Qjet, he sent a think "4-hole" gasket, plus a thick open-plenum one, and advised I run both. The 4-hole against the carb, then the thick open-plenum gasket between the 4-hole gasket and the intake manifold.

What concerns me is I did not have this issue all winter. The weather has been hotter lately, so maybe there was just finally enough heat transfer to screw up the gasket? I'm hoping there wasn't finally enough heat transfer to warp the carb...Just seems strange it would suddenly just start leaking ALL AROUND the gasket (not even just in one area). I can legitimately spray carb cleaner on all 4 sides of the carb and the idle changes.

Any tips on getting these to seal? Should I try and thin gasket? What is the spacer you refer to? One of the phenolic/wood things?
 
I'd start with a machined straight edge and check the top of that manifold - I've found quite a few that were off a lot from folks sanding off old gasket material or improper finishing from manufacture . When I worked in the shop we used a specific 1/8-3/16" gasket , can't remember what it was now but seems it was brown or something - they never leaked on Quadrajunks...
Sarge
 
I'd start with a machined straight edge and check the top of that manifold - I've found quite a few that were off a lot from folks sanding off old gasket material or improper finishing from manufacture . When I worked in the shop we used a specific 1/8-3/16" gasket , can't remember what it was now but seems it was brown or something - they never leaked on Quadrajunks...
Sarge

I'm more concerned with the fact that the carb was sealed to the manifold gasket just fine up until this weekend, then it's like the whole gasket just "let go" and none of the bolts seem loose.

Seems like an odd occurance give the carb and gasket only have about 100 miles through them.
 
It's not unusual - wrong combo of intake/gasket and carb type can do that pretty quick . I wouldn't run until it's fixed correctly or risk damage to the Q...
Sarge

I'm about 99% sure this is the correct gasket...Spread bore, open-plenum gasket, 1/4in thick. It was provided with the Quadrajet, and I let Sean Murphy know what kind of intake it was going on. Since it isn't a stock chevy intake, I've read that you shouldn't use the thinner, 4-hole intake gasket because there's nothing on the intake to support the middle of the gasket. Maybe that's not true, but both Cliff (when I ordered a rebuild kit) and Sean (when I ordered a rebuilt carb) sent basically the same gasket.

The only thing Cliff did differently was ALSO provide the 4-hole gasket. I was advised to run the 4-hole gasket against the carb, then stack the open gasket below it, against the intake. That was for my old Buick Qjet, however... This is a Chevy unit, different air runners in the throttle plate, so I'm not sure the same applies.
 
It's not unusual - wrong combo of intake/gasket and carb type can do that pretty quick . I wouldn't run until it's fixed correctly or risk damage to the Q...
Sarge

Odd to get such a noticeable change without some known cause.
The challenge you're having with the SBC/Q-jet is the number of possible OEM manifold and gasket , add in the aftermarket manifolds and it gets more challenging.
I agree with @Weber Sarge that the manifold surface can be a factor if your leak is at the base of the carb and other possibilities have been eliminated.
Man, I don't miss my carb days.:rolleyes:
 

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