Quick shout out to say how much this exact post was very helpful to me... Best step-by-step on the springs and pawl. Thanks!
Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota (4 Viewers)
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Quick shout out to say how much this exact post was very helpful to me... Best step-by-step on the springs and pawl. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #842
- Thread starter
- #843
Haven't posted an update here in a while, and honestly, not a lot to report on the truck. I've shifted gears to the garage, prepping it for the next phase of work on the FJ40 - I NEED MORE POWER!
The garage was left bare drywall by the previous owners. I have no real intention of building my "dream garage" at this point, but I did decide to run 100A service to the garage. The new box will run a couple of 220 circuits for a future welder and compressed. I'm also putting in some more 20A circuits that will ultimately be behind a work bench.
Not really truck related, but a necessary step that needs to be taken to move forward.
Meanwhile, still slowly stockpiling cash for the driveline pull/repair.
The garage was left bare drywall by the previous owners. I have no real intention of building my "dream garage" at this point, but I did decide to run 100A service to the garage. The new box will run a couple of 220 circuits for a future welder and compressed. I'm also putting in some more 20A circuits that will ultimately be behind a work bench.
Not really truck related, but a necessary step that needs to be taken to move forward.
Meanwhile, still slowly stockpiling cash for the driveline pull/repair.
I think I started too soon on projects after I built my shop - but then again, I've learned so much that I'm not sure I'd get the shop I have now without the steps. Like my FJ40, it took 7 prior FJ40s to decide what I wanted this one to be - and even it's evolved as I've built it...
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- #845
Just a minor update -
Garage renovations are progressing. Nothing like a couple of 70-degree days off around Christmas to get things done! The wiring is in, the sheetrock is back up. On to spackling, sanding, and painting.
In the meantime - I have been doing something to the Land Cruiser that I new and entirely different for me...I've been driving it! I will say, the new carburetor and electric choke have been a MASSIVE improvement. I still think I'm holding the choke shut a bit too long when the engine is cold (it doesn't want to kick down off high idle for 1:30-2:00 on initial cold start, and it hasn't been cold here) but otherwise the truck starts and runs beautifully.
I also changed the oil a few month ago, and included some of that "seal gooifier" stuff from ATP that's supposed to swell dried seals and slow leaks. I've generally been in the "snake oil" camp on this kind of stuff - but now that I've put a few miles on the truck, I can honestly say it's leaking less.
MOST IMPORTANTLY - with the new carburetor (and maybe the seal expander) I can say that the truck truly, absolutely, shows zero blue smoke. I get the usual white vapor smoke at start-up, but even the water that drips out of the tail pipe is less sooty than it used to be. I honestly think the smoke I was seeing when running the old carb was black smoke, and the result of an extremely rich condition. Now when I rev the engine, or check behind me while driving, I don't see a hint of smoke once the engine is warm.
I've changed my mind a dozen times on this engine, but I'm once again leaning back toward dropping in some new seals and running it. The only mystery left to solve is the tap I can feel on my Driver's Side Valve cover, but can't hear enough to identify the source (even with a stethoscope).
Had a lot of people talk to me about it over the last couple of days while I was out around town, including another offer to buy it for 10k. Rough math has me at least 13k into it at this point (including the cost of the truck)...I'll be at 15-17k when the engine/drivetrain work is done, depending on how far I decide to take it. Sure wish it looked like it I'd done anything to it since I bought it!
Still - driving it has definitely re-invigorated me. Really looking forward to knocking out the last of the major mechanical issues this summer.
Garage renovations are progressing. Nothing like a couple of 70-degree days off around Christmas to get things done! The wiring is in, the sheetrock is back up. On to spackling, sanding, and painting.
In the meantime - I have been doing something to the Land Cruiser that I new and entirely different for me...I've been driving it! I will say, the new carburetor and electric choke have been a MASSIVE improvement. I still think I'm holding the choke shut a bit too long when the engine is cold (it doesn't want to kick down off high idle for 1:30-2:00 on initial cold start, and it hasn't been cold here) but otherwise the truck starts and runs beautifully.
I also changed the oil a few month ago, and included some of that "seal gooifier" stuff from ATP that's supposed to swell dried seals and slow leaks. I've generally been in the "snake oil" camp on this kind of stuff - but now that I've put a few miles on the truck, I can honestly say it's leaking less.
MOST IMPORTANTLY - with the new carburetor (and maybe the seal expander) I can say that the truck truly, absolutely, shows zero blue smoke. I get the usual white vapor smoke at start-up, but even the water that drips out of the tail pipe is less sooty than it used to be. I honestly think the smoke I was seeing when running the old carb was black smoke, and the result of an extremely rich condition. Now when I rev the engine, or check behind me while driving, I don't see a hint of smoke once the engine is warm.
I've changed my mind a dozen times on this engine, but I'm once again leaning back toward dropping in some new seals and running it. The only mystery left to solve is the tap I can feel on my Driver's Side Valve cover, but can't hear enough to identify the source (even with a stethoscope).
Had a lot of people talk to me about it over the last couple of days while I was out around town, including another offer to buy it for 10k. Rough math has me at least 13k into it at this point (including the cost of the truck)...I'll be at 15-17k when the engine/drivetrain work is done, depending on how far I decide to take it. Sure wish it looked like it I'd done anything to it since I bought it!
Still - driving it has definitely re-invigorated me. Really looking forward to knocking out the last of the major mechanical issues this summer.
Yes, yes, and yes. I recently wrapped up my front axle overhaul with a disc upgrade and tuned it up. The return to driving it has been a joy. Drive your 40's folks... it adds life to all the wrenching.
This final comment of yours just really resonated with me.
- Thread starter
- #847
Alright so back to garage-related questions. Half the reason I'm rewiring the garage is so that I can upgrade to air tools. I've now got a beefy 240V circuit ready and waiting, I just need to pick the compressor. The issue is - I've never had air tools. I understand you need to pick a compressor with a CFM output at ~90PSI that outpaces your most air-thirsty tool. The problem is, I have no idea what that will be. From reading, it seems like DA Sanders, Grinders, spray guns, and Sand Blasters take the most. Of those, I have an electric grinder, and I'll probably not be buying a sand blaster. That leaves the Sander as possibly the highest CFM tool I (might) be buying at some point. I've seen most of these want in the neighborhood of 15-18CFM for constant operation (ie - sanding a whole truck).
I had never planned to paint my own truck, but having something that will help me strip the truck someday, and do bodywork would be a plus. At that point, I'll probably just end up painting it...
Which brings me to my question. My budget is, at an absolute max, about $1200. Otherwise I'd just buy a 7.5 HP 2-stage and be done with it. Space is also a concern but they all seem to be about the same size (enormous). Here is my conundrum:
You can get a single stage, 5HP compressor that barfs out the requisite 18PSI like this guy:
Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 5-HP 60-Gallon Single-Stage Air Compressor
but it maxes out at 135SI
OR
This two stage, 5 horse motor that only puts out 14PSI, and it has a smaller 40 gallon tank.
5 HP Two Stage Air Compressors
BUT it can produce 12.5 CFM at 175PSI, or 14CFM at 90PSI
It doesn't really make sense to me that a 2 stage compressor with the same horsepower would pump less air, but that's what the spec sheets say!
Seems like the 2 stages run at a slightly lower RPM which might mean quieter? and probably cooler/less wear/more reliable. But most of them are out of my price range.
For those of you running these big compressors, what do I really need? I know the answer is "the most air you can afford" but I would love it if someone told me I could get one of the Husky/Kobalt specials for about $500 (12-13PSI, single stage) and be happy.
@SuperBuickGuy @Vae Victus @Pin_Head @Weber Sarge @Cdaniel @Yellow Jacket - I'm assuming you're all running the big 2-stage units in your shop, but as the resident tool experts, your opinions are much appreciated!
I had never planned to paint my own truck, but having something that will help me strip the truck someday, and do bodywork would be a plus. At that point, I'll probably just end up painting it...
Which brings me to my question. My budget is, at an absolute max, about $1200. Otherwise I'd just buy a 7.5 HP 2-stage and be done with it. Space is also a concern but they all seem to be about the same size (enormous). Here is my conundrum:
You can get a single stage, 5HP compressor that barfs out the requisite 18PSI like this guy:
Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 5-HP 60-Gallon Single-Stage Air Compressor
but it maxes out at 135SI
OR
This two stage, 5 horse motor that only puts out 14PSI, and it has a smaller 40 gallon tank.
5 HP Two Stage Air Compressors
BUT it can produce 12.5 CFM at 175PSI, or 14CFM at 90PSI
It doesn't really make sense to me that a 2 stage compressor with the same horsepower would pump less air, but that's what the spec sheets say!
Seems like the 2 stages run at a slightly lower RPM which might mean quieter? and probably cooler/less wear/more reliable. But most of them are out of my price range.
For those of you running these big compressors, what do I really need? I know the answer is "the most air you can afford" but I would love it if someone told me I could get one of the Husky/Kobalt specials for about $500 (12-13PSI, single stage) and be happy.
@SuperBuickGuy @Vae Victus @Pin_Head @Weber Sarge @Cdaniel @Yellow Jacket - I'm assuming you're all running the big 2-stage units in your shop, but as the resident tool experts, your opinions are much appreciated!
truth be told, I run a higher CFM air compressor on my FJ40... .12 cfm, the shop compressor is 9 cfm and works fine. If you're painting or whatever, it will run constantly but one of those "hmm" things is that I never use my air tools outside of the sander for that long; your paint gun doesn't have enough fluid in it to deplete a 60 gallon tank; and if you're sanding long enough to need more, you should buy better projects.
I am replacing my compressor, even have it, but haven't put it on with a (IIRC, it's been awhile) a 15 cfm (all at 90 psi). Body-shops, sure, huge compressors save money - but in a garage? 50-70 gallon tank and a twin or larger compressor will be more then enough. Keep in mind, that what you buy must be replaced occasionally, so beside the increased maintenance cost there is a substantial energy cost as well.
Used is your friend, especially since you can replace the compressor and the electric motor with USA built ones for pretty inexpensively... also, if you are going to paint, the best air/water separator you can find will pay you dividends in the hours you won't have to spend color sanding and buffing.
I am replacing my compressor, even have it, but haven't put it on with a (IIRC, it's been awhile) a 15 cfm (all at 90 psi). Body-shops, sure, huge compressors save money - but in a garage? 50-70 gallon tank and a twin or larger compressor will be more then enough. Keep in mind, that what you buy must be replaced occasionally, so beside the increased maintenance cost there is a substantial energy cost as well.
Used is your friend, especially since you can replace the compressor and the electric motor with USA built ones for pretty inexpensively... also, if you are going to paint, the best air/water separator you can find will pay you dividends in the hours you won't have to spend color sanding and buffing.
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- #849
Thanks, this is good to know! I never really considered spraying from a volume standpoint. Really the body on this truck is in pretty decent shape. dented, in places, but not Swiss cheese. I'm leaning a little bit toward the 40 gallon, twin stage compressor, linked above, but the fact that it's lower CFM output than some of the singles (like the IR linked) is confusing - But 14CFM will probably outpace (almost) everything I foresee myself having.
I go both ways on this. Around here, almost everything I find used is almost the same price as new. I also don't have a vehicle readily available to transport something of that magnitude (I really, really need a pickup truck) so going and getting a used unit is a matter of rallying (annoying) a friend with a truck to come with me. I also like knowing the maintenance history of my more expensive stuff, but I agree, replacement parts are not astronomical and I am keeping my eyes open.
This is another thing I've been wondering about. Everyone with big shop compressor setups talks water separators, and plumbs drip legs into their hard lines. I've also read that those drip legs and separators need to be as far from the compressor as possible, to let the air in the lines cool. Unfortunately about the only free space I'll have is directly behind the compressor. I've also see people run separators directly off the tank inlet...so...
for a home-shop - you're over thinking this... it's really not as complicated as you're making it.
getting moisture out of the air is important, especially on small compressors that have to work extra hard to keep up - but unless your machine is running 8 hours a day, the amount of moisture shouldn't be that bad.... even in humid Maryland.
drops - if you run a shop supply system, then every drop should have a 6" continuation with a plug or valve to let out moisture... in a home shop? really doubtful. One thing about my system, the compressor is in the shop - so when it's running you can't talk over it nor can you hear the stereo.... which actually works to limit the amount of time I use it. I don't run drops because we have 40% humidity and die at 50%...
many people, myself included, have a really nice air/water separator that is only connected when painting or using the plasma gun. The cheap, HF tools (even my cheap craftsman impact wrench) get regularly abused with non-conditioned air. The mitigation to that is I oil each time I use it... and now, 20 years later, it still works like new. And that's the point, there are ways to mitigate water in the air - but for the most part, it's not necessary (thus the over thinking comment).
a stand-up air compressor already does a pretty good job of reducing water by pushing the air to the bottom of the tank then pulling the supply off the middle of the side. Excess water comes out of suspension pretty easily and the best way to do that is through 90* turns and by a bit of water in the bottom (which pulls the water out of the air as it flows across the standing water).
which all is a long-winded way of saying - don't worry about it, wire your compressor and use it. Drain it occasionally, more often in the summer, and run a air/water separator when you need it (they are perishable). Don't cheap out on the separator, if you're running a 1/2" line, get a 3/4" or 1" in/out separator to reduce restriction. And oil your tools....
getting moisture out of the air is important, especially on small compressors that have to work extra hard to keep up - but unless your machine is running 8 hours a day, the amount of moisture shouldn't be that bad.... even in humid Maryland.
drops - if you run a shop supply system, then every drop should have a 6" continuation with a plug or valve to let out moisture... in a home shop? really doubtful. One thing about my system, the compressor is in the shop - so when it's running you can't talk over it nor can you hear the stereo.... which actually works to limit the amount of time I use it. I don't run drops because we have 40% humidity and die at 50%...
many people, myself included, have a really nice air/water separator that is only connected when painting or using the plasma gun. The cheap, HF tools (even my cheap craftsman impact wrench) get regularly abused with non-conditioned air. The mitigation to that is I oil each time I use it... and now, 20 years later, it still works like new. And that's the point, there are ways to mitigate water in the air - but for the most part, it's not necessary (thus the over thinking comment).
a stand-up air compressor already does a pretty good job of reducing water by pushing the air to the bottom of the tank then pulling the supply off the middle of the side. Excess water comes out of suspension pretty easily and the best way to do that is through 90* turns and by a bit of water in the bottom (which pulls the water out of the air as it flows across the standing water).
which all is a long-winded way of saying - don't worry about it, wire your compressor and use it. Drain it occasionally, more often in the summer, and run a air/water separator when you need it (they are perishable). Don't cheap out on the separator, if you're running a 1/2" line, get a 3/4" or 1" in/out separator to reduce restriction. And oil your tools....
To a certain extent I agree with SBG. But, let me tell you of my experience. Quite a number of years ago I was in charge of a wood shop (built mostly pallets) that used quite a few nail guns. The building was unheated, and this area has quite a reputation for being a bit rainy in all seasons except for summer. We were having a big problem with water in our air line, and the nail guns.
Being that the shop was part of a non-profit training center for the handicapped the funding for an air dryer wasn't available. So, our shop maintenance man replumbed the air supply coming out of the air tank. He plumbed the air line straight up to the ceiling (8 ft in that tool room), then dropped it straight back down and into a small tank that had a drain, maybe 20 gallons (like found on a small home type compressor), then went back up to the ceiling and hooked it up to the existing air lines. The main tank got a lot of the water. Going straight up like that made a lot of the moisture drop out and stay in the main tank. Then, dropping down into the second, smaller tank caught a large quantity of the remaining moisture. The final vertical pipe stopped almost all of the rest of the moisture, and stopped the moisture problems we had with the nail guns.
Since you won't be using near the quantity of air that we were, you wouldn't need near as extensive a system that we had. You could probably just go straight up, down (plumb in an air drop and a drain at this point), and back up, without the secondary tank that we had. If you do need a small tank, it probably wouldn't need to be more than a gallon in size. The best part is that it is rather inexpensive for the plumbing. And, you might be able to find a small air compressor that is close to worn out, along with a small tank at a garage sale.
Don
Being that the shop was part of a non-profit training center for the handicapped the funding for an air dryer wasn't available. So, our shop maintenance man replumbed the air supply coming out of the air tank. He plumbed the air line straight up to the ceiling (8 ft in that tool room), then dropped it straight back down and into a small tank that had a drain, maybe 20 gallons (like found on a small home type compressor), then went back up to the ceiling and hooked it up to the existing air lines. The main tank got a lot of the water. Going straight up like that made a lot of the moisture drop out and stay in the main tank. Then, dropping down into the second, smaller tank caught a large quantity of the remaining moisture. The final vertical pipe stopped almost all of the rest of the moisture, and stopped the moisture problems we had with the nail guns.
Since you won't be using near the quantity of air that we were, you wouldn't need near as extensive a system that we had. You could probably just go straight up, down (plumb in an air drop and a drain at this point), and back up, without the secondary tank that we had. If you do need a small tank, it probably wouldn't need to be more than a gallon in size. The best part is that it is rather inexpensive for the plumbing. And, you might be able to find a small air compressor that is close to worn out, along with a small tank at a garage sale.
Don
Ok , here's a few insights -
Unless you buy a commercial grade compressor most all of the new ones will not last when pushed hard with near continuous run cycles . Keep in mind that long cycles can shorten the life of a pump and even the motor . I would not buy anything less than 20cfm @150-175 psi , anything less is going to run itself to death instead of lasting 20+yrs . Keep your eyes open - as well as an open mind . Single phase is what most home shop owners want - there is a very high number of 3ph units for sale and sometimes really cheap - you can always source a used single phase motor . My old Speed-Air was 3ph , I found a single phase 5hp high torque for free - so total cost was nothing (compressor came from an abandoned car wash that was being refurbished ) . So , that left me with a 5hp/28cfm 80 gallon unit for nothing but the cost of a new pressure regulator and wiring . I did have to make new legs for it , she had rusted hers off in that crappy wet place and was leaning against the wall . That was nearly 20yrs ago - still in service .
My point is this - it can outrun even my pot blaster with a 3/16" orifice running 125psi . It does get quite hot , but that old R25 style pump will last forever if you keep the oil changed . I've watched some pretty expensive new units burn out pumps pretty quick when pushed even lightly - they really do not make things like they used to ...
I just saw a VR4 pump/tank (120gal) used on CL for $800 w/10hp 3ph motor - that's a great candidate for an inline six gas/diesel engine drive portable , but I'm too tired to build one right now ...there are deals out there , just got to search .
As to moisture , some zig-zags in the pipe , either horizontal or vertical work great and can be wall-mounted behind the unit . It can cool the air quickly and if every other return leg has a tee with a drop/drain they will remove moisture pretty good .
Sarge
Unless you buy a commercial grade compressor most all of the new ones will not last when pushed hard with near continuous run cycles . Keep in mind that long cycles can shorten the life of a pump and even the motor . I would not buy anything less than 20cfm @150-175 psi , anything less is going to run itself to death instead of lasting 20+yrs . Keep your eyes open - as well as an open mind . Single phase is what most home shop owners want - there is a very high number of 3ph units for sale and sometimes really cheap - you can always source a used single phase motor . My old Speed-Air was 3ph , I found a single phase 5hp high torque for free - so total cost was nothing (compressor came from an abandoned car wash that was being refurbished ) . So , that left me with a 5hp/28cfm 80 gallon unit for nothing but the cost of a new pressure regulator and wiring . I did have to make new legs for it , she had rusted hers off in that crappy wet place and was leaning against the wall . That was nearly 20yrs ago - still in service .
My point is this - it can outrun even my pot blaster with a 3/16" orifice running 125psi . It does get quite hot , but that old R25 style pump will last forever if you keep the oil changed . I've watched some pretty expensive new units burn out pumps pretty quick when pushed even lightly - they really do not make things like they used to ...
I just saw a VR4 pump/tank (120gal) used on CL for $800 w/10hp 3ph motor - that's a great candidate for an inline six gas/diesel engine drive portable , but I'm too tired to build one right now ...there are deals out there , just got to search .
As to moisture , some zig-zags in the pipe , either horizontal or vertical work great and can be wall-mounted behind the unit . It can cool the air quickly and if every other return leg has a tee with a drop/drain they will remove moisture pretty good .
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #853
Thanks for the feedback guys -
@Weber Sarge - the cold weather is finally catching up to the East Coast, and I'm not buying/installing a compressor until my garage is drywall mudded/sanded (I'm sure drywall dust would not do good things to a compressor). So I have some time. I'll keep my eyes open for something with some more guts. Any recommendations for older model pump/motor brands to be on the lookout for while I'm Craigslist hunting?
Ultimately, aside from MAYBE a DA sander, I can't see any air tool I intend to own outrunning a 14CFM @90psi 2-stage compressor. BUT whenever I can afford it, I tend to go with the "buy once, cry once" philosophy.
Unless of course, you've read the last 10 pages of me hemming and hawing over what to do with my truck's engine...in which case you'll realize that I'm probably just cheap
@Weber Sarge - the cold weather is finally catching up to the East Coast, and I'm not buying/installing a compressor until my garage is drywall mudded/sanded (I'm sure drywall dust would not do good things to a compressor). So I have some time. I'll keep my eyes open for something with some more guts. Any recommendations for older model pump/motor brands to be on the lookout for while I'm Craigslist hunting?
Ultimately, aside from MAYBE a DA sander, I can't see any air tool I intend to own outrunning a 14CFM @90psi 2-stage compressor. BUT whenever I can afford it, I tend to go with the "buy once, cry once" philosophy.
Unless of course, you've read the last 10 pages of me hemming and hawing over what to do with my truck's engine...in which case you'll realize that I'm probably just cheap
Champion , Speed Air , basically any older big name industrial brand are all good . Champion pumps command a higher price generally , they were made in my hometown of Princeton , Illinois where mom worked as a book keeper for almost 30yrs . Rebuild kits for those older pumps are easy to come by and pretty cheap ,too .
Sarge
Sarge
Cdaniel
Undocumented Mechanic-I Am Not CDAN
The big as you can afford advice is all I can offer. It's a tool that lasts a long time and hopefully meets you're changing needs during that time. I have a really old 5hp 60gal craftsman unit bought used. I've painted, sandblasted, racheted, impacted and all other sorts of tools. The most used tool is probably my air cut off tool. Followed by the impact wrench. Extended use of the high speed cut off tool taxes the compressor and sandblasting is worse. But It recovers quick enough. I wish for more sometimes, but really don't have room.
Cdaniel
Undocumented Mechanic-I Am Not CDAN
It's 2 stage
I sandblasted my frame with a 2 Hp Emglo Twin tank. It left me longing for more. Most home users won't be working for 8 hrs straight... Or running multiple tools off it. I'm sure a decent 8+ CFM @ 90 psi 5+ Hp would likely meet your needs. I'd spend more to get a higher quality pump vs a higher volume pump that I'll only push to it's limits once in ten years. My body and schedule only allows for an hour or two here or there. I've found factory paint comes off super quick with a single edged razor blade, and you've said you don't have much body work.
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- #859
"Not much bodywork" is a relative statement. Compared to some trucks I've seen here, mine should be a cakewalk. However, there will be bodywork, of that I have no doubt. My hard top, in particular, is swiss cheese, and the doors are rotted out at the bottom. I also have bedliner in the rear of the tub, which might be hiding some ugly truths. That said, I agree with you - there's a pretty good chance that day-in, day-out I will not be overtaxing whatever compressor I buy. I have friends who have done some pretty solid restorations with 3HP, twin-tank job-site compressors. I'm finding compressors to be a lot like lawnmowers - the brand name is different, but most of the components are the same, once you really start digging. At a given price point, most have the same motor or pump, just a different name on the tank.
Most of the low-end, commercial level 2-stage pumps boast 100% duty cycle and something to the tune of 10,000 hours of life. Not sure how much I believe it, but they'll put out a consistent 14CFM at 90PSI, which should outpace most tools.
Thanks! This is sort of where I'm leaning. 2 stage, 5 horses, and probably 40-60 gallon vertical tank. I'm hesitant to move up to 80 gallons as space is somewhat limited.
The one I used was a jobsite compressor. For extra tank volume we hooked up a 100 lb propane tank (mounted to the ceiling). It ran a dual action reasonably well, and painted a car fine. Die grinders, sand blasters, etc... Drained the tanks quickly.
