Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[RWBeringer4x4]

Shackle Options

So I actually have 2 (very different) sets of shackles laying around.


OPTION A:
Appears to be a home-built shackle measuring about 3.5 inches pin-to-pin. Looks like the stock shackles are about 2.75in pin-to-pin, so option A is about .75in over stock. The pins appear to be the same size as stock, but are pretty rusted.

OPTION B:
Massive. Measure about 5.25in pin-to-pin, or 2.5in over stock. I'm guessing these are the CCOT/HFS barbell shackles. The pins seem significantly thicker. My guess is this would mean I'd have to drill out my shackle hangers to accommodate.

OPTION C:
None of the above - any alternative suggestions appreciated!

I also have 8, apparently unused, bushings that look to be about 0.5in inner diameter. My guess is these would fit the smaller shackle pins, but possibly not the larger ones...I tried to slide one over the larger pin, and it was a (very) tight fit.

I'm thinking the Option A might be more ideal - I'd probably just need to get new shackle pins. I'm interested in what others think!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

U-bolts

And another dumb question:

I had no idea there would be so many choices when it came to U-Bolts! Kurt has cut-to-length, but they seem insanely expensive. They are half the price virtually everywhere else, but they all seem application specific.

If I'm running an unlifted spring pack and (potentially) some caster shims up front, how long a U-bolt should I plan on?

Is there a good vendor for something like this?

 

[Trollhole]

At least with Kurt you know you will get something that works.

Don't know where you live but in my town there are some spring and axle truck shop that make my ubolts. Might be worth a shot.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

At least with Kurt you know you will get something that works.

Don't know where you live but in my town there are some spring and axle truck shop that make my ubolts. Might be worth a shot.

Agreed. I just don't understand why his are $17.00 a piece, when everyone else sells them for $8.00?

I'll have to look around at truck shops - there are a few in the area, I believe.

 

[bsilva132]

The material they are made of and the size. The cheap ones tent to stretch a lot. I got mine from ruffstuffspecialties.com as they are local. They are beefier than the stock ones.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Setback (Again)

Well, drove the truck around a little more today - The steering till pops when turned all the way to the right. I investigated further and found the "popping" is the whole truck flexing back against the power steering when the tie rod bottoms out against the wheel. Seems like the steering box was most likely installed off center - I (Still) have 1.5 turns to the left, and 2.5 turns to the right. Pretty pissed. Going back to the shop.

Is there anything else (ie: the alignment process) that could cause the steering to be off by 1/2 turn? I just find it bizarre that it is off by the same amount, in the same direction, as it was previously.

In other news, I figured out that my leaf springs are made by Mitsubishi?? I think I recall reading somewhere that Mitsubishi Heavy Industries supplied toyota with the stock springs. Everything else about them seems pretty stock. Can someone confirm? That will really help narrow down the shackle/bushing selection process!

 

[Cdaniel]

Confused by "tie rod bottoms against the wheel"?

Equal turns left to right should be as simple as re indexing the splines on the pitman arm.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Confused by "tie rod bottoms against the wheel"?

Equal turns left to right should be as simple as re indexing the splines on the input shaft coupling.

Cliff -

My lack of steering terminology is likely muddying the waters. That said, not sure what "re-indexing the splines on the input shaft coupling" means.

Basically, with my wheels facing dead straight, (pitman arm facing straight backward) I can turn the steering wheel 1.5 turns to the left before the steering box runs out of gear. From the same start position (dead center) I can make 2.5 turns to the right. Somewhere into the second turn, I get a loud "popping" noise that I wasn't able to pinpoint, but the entire truck "rides up" like it is being jacked up by the front tire. The popping sounds kind of like sheet metal flexing.

To me, it seems like this would be caused by the pitman arm being installed and hooked up to the drag link with the box 1/2 turn off "center, so that "centered" wheels on the truck do not equate to the "center" of the steering gear in the box. Am I close?

Based on this (limited) logic, centering the wheels, detaching the pitman arm, centering the gearbox, then hooking up the pitman arm back up centered straight back, would even it out. Only issue then would be that the steering wheel would then be 1/2 turn off and not centered-looking. Then I'd just have to disconnect the steering shaft from the input splines on the box, center the wheel, and reconnect it. Again, am I close?

 

[Cdaniel]

I meant pitman arm

And you've got the solution

 

[Cdaniel]

On second thought repositioning the pitman arm may not be possible if it is keyed to one position.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

On second thought repositioning the pitman arm may not be possible if it is keyed to one position.

If I recall, it isn't - I think it's just circular splines. You knock on the arm, then hold it in place with a nut and enormous lock washer.

 

[subzali]

How are your steering stops adjusted? If the arm looks straight when the wheels are straight you should have equal turns left to right unless your stops are adjusted differently.

You should be able to pull the wheel off the steering shaft from inside the cab to re center if necessary but you first want to make sure your box is centered.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

How are your steering stops adjusted? If the arm looks straight when the wheels are straight you should have equal turns left to right unless your stops are adjusted differently.

You should be able to pull the wheel off the steering shaft from inside the cab to re center if necessary but you first want to make sure your box is centered.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

Hey subzali,

It's not the stops - I'm not even hitting the stop when I turn as far as the box will let me, to the right. The box is definitely not centered.

 

[Cdaniel]

How long is your pitman arm center to center?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

How long is your pitman arm center to center?

That's a pretty personal question, Cliff...

Not sure, to be honest, but if I had to wager a guess, 5-6 inches?

 

[Cdaniel]

That's a pretty personal question, Cliff...

Not sure, to be honest, but if I had to wager a guess, 5-6 inches?

Well your are consulting a collective of quacks, errr ah doctors .

Sounds like the length is ok. Longer would be better. I think the easy to find ones are either 5.5 or 6.5 on center

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Sounds like the length is ok. Longer would be better. I think the easy to find ones are either 5.5 or 6.5 on center

That's what she said (sorry I had to.)

I'll have to check it out. I'm bringing it back to the shop today. I paid a good deal of money to have this job done right. I'm also in the process of moving, as I mentioned before - so all my free time is being spent throwing stuff in boxes. No time to sit around and play with my pitman arm...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

A couple new leaks to contend with...

The front differential has been leaking for a couple months. I'm hoping its from the drain plug but 99% sure it's where the third member meets the housing.

What really concerns me is the mating surface between the transfer case and the transmission. Transfercase was resealed about 6 months ago...

Any thoughts on how to tell which gearbox it's coming from? Or just give it a couple weeks and see where the fluid is missing?

 

[Vae Victus]

A couple new leaks to contend with...

The front differential has been leaking for a couple months. I'm hoping its from the drain plug but 99% sure it's where the third member meets the housing.

What really concerns me is the mating surface between the transfer case and the transmission. Transfercase was resealed about 6 months ago...

Any thoughts on how to tell which gearbox it's coming from? Or just give it a couple weeks and see where the fluid is missing?

Hard to tell from those fantastically clear photos Rick! LOL

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hard to tell from those fantastically clear photos Rick! LOL

iPhone + low light = crap photography. So sue me!