Thats what I wanted to see some vehicle history for those cruisers which had HG issues. Did they have valley plate issues or radiator leak issues before the HG, or are those the luck few which didn't have valley or radiator issues but hit the jackpot of HG.
The Car Care Nut talks UR V8 blown head gaskets (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter dudemancool1904
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That's definitely a possibility, but with my lower milage for the year I'm assuming (hoping) that's not the case. Service history does show "antifreeze service" performed by a dealer @120k miles in 2020. I've put a JB weld patch over the crack for the time being while I wait for my new Rad/hoses/water pump etc. to arrive.
Change fluids and drive it like you stole it.
bloc
SILVER Star
HPS Black Reinforced Silicone Radiator + Heater Hose Kit Coolant Toyota 08-16 Land Cruiser 5.7L V8
Toyota 08-16 Land Cruiser 5.7L V8 HPS Black High Temp Reinforced Silicone Radiator + Heater Hose Kit Coolant replace stock OEM rubber hoses with premium quality silicone and delivers race proven performance which can withstand high boost and high temperature during competition or daily drivinghpsperformanceproducts.com
Meh.
The silicon generally used in coolant hoses is a significantly lower durometer (hardness) than the stock hoses, which makes them far more susceptible to mechanical damage. Plus unless they *exactly* match the wall thickness you can’t use the stock style spring clamps, forcing use of screw clamps which often tear the hose rubber anyway. And generally don’t clamp as uniformly.
I can’t think of a reason the stock hoses aren’t more than adequate. Many people toss in new radiators and leave the originals and I have yet to read of a hose burst on a 200 series. My stock heater hoses weren’t factory new at 200k miles but looked damn good. I did notice one additional heater hose on the passenger side bank that might be worth looking at but again, 200k and I’m confident it would go another 100.
Permeability? Has anyone actually had a problem with that on stock hoses?
I need to give the hoses into the rear heat above the exhaust a look, and would strongly suggest anyone with corrosion do the same.
Full silicon replacement set? Nope.
for those of you who are still bursting their nuts with the original CCN video on head gasket, see this method which can detect if coolant and exhaust gases are mixing at head gasket.
Yet another process we all can try because we love overdoing things
Yet another process we all can try because we love overdoing things
for those of you who are still bursting their nuts with the original CCN video on head gasket, see this method which can detect if coolant and exhaust gases are mixing at head gasket.
Yet another process we all can try because we love overdoing things
Would more than likely be a waste of time unless you are actually experiencing problems such as misfiring (CEL), overheating, no cabin heat, coolant disappearing, etc
Paul Meeker owner of lextech is leagues ahead of CCN. Dudes knowledge of toyota/lexus products is insane.
he on YT too?
N
Not that I know of
I did not get that (acidity eating the head gasket) from the video. He clearly states the aluminum heads, sometimes block are warping when he states "who will win" between aluminum block and heads vs steel head gasket. CCN really makes a point to focus on checking the cylinder head and engine block surfaces to ensure they do not require machining, replacement, or just a thicker steel gasket.
Good point, as it is not really gasket failure we are talking about per se. The case exhibited in the video is about likely warping of the heads and/or block. Another poster pointed to cause being a possible overheating event with previous owner who apparently replaced the radiator; conjecture sure, but the gaskets are not necessarily the failure point. I am curious how many of these UR engines overheated and warped the aluminum. There is a reason hotrodders use cast iron blocks like the GM Gen IV 6.0 with aluminum heads.
Not saying UR engines are "weak" but nothing is "bomb proof" or "bulletproof" as so many enthusiasts might believe. Would have been nice for the CCN to measure the heads and block mating surfaces to see if they are in fact warped.
It might be possible to deck the heads, but not the engine block to the liners being cast inside the aluminum block. Might also be possible to use a thicker gasket. CCN spoke about checking and measuring, however, he provided no measurements.
L96 or any GM Gen IV 6.0-liter V8 (cast iron blocks, aluminum heads) would be my choice paired with 6L80 or possibly 6L90 transmissions depending on use case. These engines were built for long harsh duty cycles but can also be built and tuned for high torque and horsepower reliably.
for those of you who are still bursting their nuts with the original CCN video on head gasket, see this method which can detect if coolant and exhaust gases are mixing at head gasket.
Yet another process we all can try because we love overdoing things
I need more popcorn…
Some more data, just for the FWIW department...
Changed my coolant when I did the radiator at ~115K miles. Bought the fancy Coolant Test strips on Amazon, just to check the old stuff, which AFAIK is the original factory coolant.
Old coolant is on the left. Looks like Glycol content is about 70%, pH ~8.5. Brake fluid (also factory original) is at about 10 on the scale. Tested with a battery tester and it read "acceptable".
New coolant on the right (new OEM SLLC). Glycol ~60%, pH ~8.5. Brake fluid (new DOT 3) is about 5 on the scale, only slightly better. Also tested as "acceptable" on the tester.
I mean... I feel better knowing all the fluids are nice and fresh now, but it sure looks to me like it was a waste, assuming these strips are accurate.
Changed my coolant when I did the radiator at ~115K miles. Bought the fancy Coolant Test strips on Amazon, just to check the old stuff, which AFAIK is the original factory coolant.
Old coolant is on the left. Looks like Glycol content is about 70%, pH ~8.5. Brake fluid (also factory original) is at about 10 on the scale. Tested with a battery tester and it read "acceptable".
New coolant on the right (new OEM SLLC). Glycol ~60%, pH ~8.5. Brake fluid (new DOT 3) is about 5 on the scale, only slightly better. Also tested as "acceptable" on the tester.
I mean... I feel better knowing all the fluids are nice and fresh now, but it sure looks to me like it was a waste, assuming these strips are accurate.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
Nothing in particular against the amazon strips but has anyone had their coolant analysis done by a laboratory? Seems like that would be way more definitive and accurate.
Blackstone runs a coolant test for $45 (the pack of strips is $22...) and tests the following, and if it's like their oil analysis it would also include a written opinion interpreting the results:
Blackstone runs a coolant test for $45 (the pack of strips is $22...) and tests the following, and if it's like their oil analysis it would also include a written opinion interpreting the results:
- pH
- Nitrites
- Oil (hydrocarbons) contamination
- Specific gravity
- Freeze point
- Visual inspection for debris/color
For reference results of my Sept 2020 build 200 at 36k miles. Looks like higher mileage examples above or low mileage on my shows all is good coolant wise, that is absence of low pH fluid which supposedly eats up HG…
Clear to me the HG failure linked to coolant is not in fact the issue, yet overheating events due to other reasons (likely cracked radiator, possible lower octane fuel while driving under high loads) are the root causes.
I am happy though I bought these strips as it shows my Oct 2013 build 535d at 68k (I know. low mileage for age) still shows good pH on the coolant as well and I was wondering whether it needed urgent change. It does need brake fluid work.
2014 BMW 535d results at 68k miles
Clear to me the HG failure linked to coolant is not in fact the issue, yet overheating events due to other reasons (likely cracked radiator, possible lower octane fuel while driving under high loads) are the root causes.
I am happy though I bought these strips as it shows my Oct 2013 build 535d at 68k (I know. low mileage for age) still shows good pH on the coolant as well and I was wondering whether it needed urgent change. It does need brake fluid work.
2014 BMW 535d results at 68k miles
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Agreed about analysis vs "shoving a stick in the hole." According to BITOG, blackstone analysis isn't the best benchmark for oil analysis. They had a couple others they recommended over Blackstone. Anyways, I don't know if a coolant test would yield any erroneous results, but definitely would be superior imo vs the little sticks with patches. If we are taking the CCN seriously about coolant being the root cause of these HG failures vs overheating.
