The BJ60 gets repainted and repaired (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yeah the hammer and dolly thing is not necessarily for someone in a hurry. Metal craftsmanship is a lost art. Its amazing what you can do with those tools and a torch and body file. Bondo is cheating as far as I'm concerned, but I guess we all need a time saver once in a while.

All the old European vehicles were hand formed bodies. One of the reasons body restoration is so difficult: its hard to buy a fender if not one of them is exactly the same as any other.

-kevin
 
Technikev said:
Bondo is cheating as far as I'm concerned, but I guess we all need a time saver once in a while.
-kevin

ain't no bondo on my truck. only bondo will be after the welds.

look at 4wheelauto for the panels I am going to use.

I will write up the procedure.
 
more rippin

ok heres my progress.

so Greg I tried to find the oil passages you mentioned in an earlier post for getting oil px to the turbo.

Where am I looking? I see a plug next to the breather, is that it? How many should there be? I have a 1/8 BSP union to -4 ordered. So now I have to find the spot to plumd into. As well I found weldable sully(pipe fitting adapter) for the oil return to the oil pan. I am going with a -8 line, which is .500 inch. That is double the feed line, so should be ok. So its underway.

As you can see I am getting deep involved now.

Hoping i am done by sept. It wreaks the summer for trips. but since I only have a carport, I kinda don't get to do this work in the winter.
plug2.jpg
tornapart2.jpg
turboprep2.jpg
 
Sorry for the late intro, I hope you did a search on the rear quarters.

Those Wolf panels fit very very poorly and take a skill pro to make them fit well, unless they have improved on them?

So I went out and bought a hammer and dolly, then made up a forming dolly to hammer the the curve on.

I ended up throwing out the first set of quarters which took 8 hrs and tweaked the templates for a second set, in less than 3 hrs I had a great fitting quarter.

As you make a compound bend and angle you have a lot of changes with the metal and it does have a mind of its own.

PS the rockers were even worse, they were not even close to the rocker form.

Good luck with your restoration......

Rob
 
Radd Cruisers said:
Good luck with your restoration......

Rob

Not really a restoration, more of a intense clean up. For a restoration I would have taken the body off.


I did do a bit of search on those panels. Will see how it goes. I have done sheetmetal on aircraft.

But I am far from skilled. If I have too much trouble I will farm out the install.

But I know they won't just stick right on. I am sure creative welding and and heat will be needed.

But they were the only choice, other than trying to make my own.

I may not use the whole panel. I really only have rust from the top to the rear back . The forward part with dog leg is fine.

so I am sure that if I don't use the whole panel it will be a lot quicker.

For my rockers I am going square tubing. Much easier. But that area isn't too bad as well.
 
There is quite a bit of differance between aircraft sheet metal work and automotive sheet metal . Looks like fun ...that was me in march....repaired/rebuilt both dog legs from scratch...was not hard...just time consuming....drop me a pm if you want to talk further about the way I did it and some pics of the finished product . Also aftermarket mechanical gauge installs using AN fittings and aircraft stuff . Remember I am also an aircraft mechanic .
Daryl
 
brownbear said:
so Greg I tried to find the oil passages you mentioned in an earlier post for getting oil px to the turbo.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=50699

See post #15 for the pic that shows which plugs. Take the one at the front under the alternator for your turbo feed. You will see the gallery running along the block from front to back with a number of plugs in it. One of the oil pressure sending units will be screwed into that same gallery...and not meaning the one on the oil cooler body.

Looking good Moose, and good luck with the renovation!

gb
 
just cut the lips off and run a bent pipe around, much stronger. or just leave the lip off, same with the rear panels, cut them flat with the floor and build a custom bumper for the back...
"Mark Ritchie" the truck...
;^)
 
I tapped in to one of the 10mm bolts that is in this area for my P-gauge. There are two there and they are a bitch to get out I needed heat. They are 1/8 BSP.
Ran the line thruogh the rubber plug above heater valve on firewall and its an instant grommet.
plug2.jpg
 
Yup...that's the oil gallery that runs from the front to the back of the engine...

A fitting you can use is: Adapt-All 9011-04-02 male JIC to male BSPT

gb
Oil Fitting Adapter.jpg
 
Don't know if this helps also the grommet/plug is under the heater valve not above.
000_0002.JPG
 
crushers said:
just cut the lips off and run a bent pipe around, much stronger. or just leave the lip off, same with the rear panels, cut them flat with the floor and build a custom bumper for the back...
"Mark Ritchie" the truck...
;^)

silly for me to ask... I am not sure I understand. cut the lips of what, the patch panel?

I am building a custom bumper that wraps around and picks up on the frame.
 
silvercrusher said:
Don't know if this helps also the grommet/plug is under the heater valve not above.


Thanks Greg and Silver, I found the plugs. I will use the forward plug under the alt.

I did order one of those fittings. I am not sure the part number. but is the same. I ordered it yesturday.
 
brownbear said:
silly for me to ask... I am not sure I understand. cut the lips of what, the patch panel?

I am building a custom bumper that wraps around and picks up on the frame.
the 1/4 round under/behind the rear doors that rot out all the time...
 
Hey wayne, using the method you told me for the side windows is a lot more work than the rear, but the only way. took me awhile to get it out of there.

how do you reinstall the window? do you wrap rope all the way around and push the window into place, then pull the rope out?

did the chrome ring on the ouside have to come off? they are pretty damm fragile.....

and last but not least. If you were changing the colour of a truck would you pull the windshield to paint the truck, or tape off around? Keep in mind its a new windshield. If so does the windshield come out the same way, prying the rubber over to the outside of the lip?

also I need a good pre cleaner to remove pinstripe glue and reside, whats the best pre paint solvent to use? Kleensol? Laquer thinner, ketone or tolulene????? did you ever buy some MEK Wayne?

I wouldn't use MEK as my pre paint wipe, due to the fact it softens the paint slightly. but it does cleen glue immediately.

thanks,
 
dish soap and a 1/4"rope works great.
push the rope down into the grove as far as you can and over lap the left over ends at least 3 " each way.
get a budy (first time) to push on the window to help get the rope ends started in the corner and pull steady 90 degrees or more away from the window. the rubber will automaticly pop into place. you will need to SLAP th ewindow at times to get the rubber to seat as you go around. do not be scared to slap the window hard with a open hand.
there done...
cheers
 
thanks, will be a bit before I reinstall.
 
that depends on you, i would just atpe if i was doing a quicky "for myself/wheeling " rig. if you are doing a good job with the idea of resell then do it right.
personal wheeling rigs are excempt from having to do anything cosmetic proper.
cheers
 
ya, thats where my decision comes from. Its not just a wheeling rig, but also I have no intentions of selling. Or 100% maintaining resale value. But I do like things done right. Hence the fixing up of the truck instead of just running it and wheeling.

ya I might end up pulling, as I can see sanding around the seal will be a pain, but I get nervous with the windshield. its pretty big to do.

I might end up pulling, then farming the install out. have to see.....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom