The BJ60 gets repainted and repaired (2 Viewers)

[brownbear]

Ok it was time.

After searching many posts. I decided to repair the rust on my BJ60 and repaint it a lighter colour. Either white or silver to keep it cool while on long road trips.

I've started bu gutting the interior and removing the doors.

I have tried cutting out some of the rust around the wheels. Looks to be ok. doesn't go to far up.

My plan is to replace the rear wheel arches with either steel. or to prevent further rust I may go fiberglass. with Gozzard wheel arches.

I think going with fiberglass I stand a better chance to prevent the rust from coming back. once the rust is removed I will paint with POR-15.

I also have a sandblaster. so I hope to get it all, then seal it well.

As well I am goint to cut the rockers out and put in 2x3 steel square tube. 3/16 think. later I will put some tubes on the slider as well.

Also front and rear custom homemade bumpers will be made. With the rear coming around to the back wheels for quarter protection. as well it gets rid of the rust problem down there.

One question I do have: In the process of removing the rear window, how do I pop it out? I have the chrome strips removed. I worked the rubber nice and loose, even used soap. But Damm a lot of pressure and it doesn't want to budge. ???????

ok I will post pics as I go.........

 

[silvercrusher]

Hey BB do you know where your 60 was originally purchased. Mine is silver but has that exact pin stripe pattern. I wonder if it was a dealer thing. I like the silver it seems cleaner than dark colors and scratches dont show as much might look funny with the brown interior though?.

Keep us updated with pics. Seems like mostly 70 pics on here nice to see 60 pics too.

Have fun

Challis

 

[Island Moose]

I think going with fiberglass I stand a better chance to prevent the rust from coming back. once the rust is removed I will paint with POR-15.

Certainly fiberglass won't rust, but from a re-sale persepctive is this the best option? Whenever I buy used cars, I always bring a magnet and look for big chunks of filler and/or f-glass...sure sign of DIY bodywork.

 

[crushers]

the back window is stronger than you think. take and push the rubber under the steel lip working slowly around the frame. start in one corner, pry the rubber out and with another flat screw driver push that under the corner of the frame then work across the top and down both sides, once you acomplish this then the window and rubber just lifts out together...
very simple.

may i recomend taking steel and welding it back in. reason, fiberglass will buble with time and it also collects water which is disasterous...

congrates on you project, best of luck to you... if i can be of any help just shoot me an email...
cheers

 

[brownbear]

ya I very may well just weld in new metal. Probably the ones CCOT sells.

Thanks for the support.

After reading your window removal, it still is foggy. I am having a hard time picturing the manuver you describe, am I prying the rubber out first? do I go from inside the vehicle or outside surface?

When I was thinking of the fiberglass I was refering to the fender flares. I thought I could stick them on with an aviation sealent called PRC. it would be sealed off from moisture.

But I agree steel is better.

I also need a RH front fender. Anyone got a clean rust free one? Off a JDM? I might have to buy one from down south. I also need a lower valence(below grill)

I took a hit in the rh side this past winter. Lots of squished metal just below the rh headlight.

One other question..... Anyone who has welded on the CCOT panel.... how does the panel met up the inside wheel well?? Cause if I have that cut back there will be a hole to the inside. dirt and smuck will go up there?

 

[crushers]

the CCOT panels are just outers and you have to had make the inners and the under the door curved piece.
you remove the inner rubber to remove the window. slide the inside rubber under the steel lip, once you start you will see what i mean or call me tomorrow and i will try and walk you through
cheers

 

[brownbear]

Thanks, I will try that.

The front half of my arches are rust free. inside as well. I don't know how they are, but they are.

I don't have access to a shrinker/stretcher. So It will be interesting to make the inners.

does Princess Auto sell those? I will have to look.

 

[brownbear]

Hey BB do you know where your 60 was originally purchased. Mine is silver but has that exact pin stripe pattern. I wonder if it was a dealer thing.
Challis

I have the sales reciept from new, it was bought in Calgary at Stampede Toyota, 18,000 new.

I am the third owner, the po before me had it for only 1 yr.

ya its a strange early eighties pinstripping. yuck.

 

[brownbear]

whoops CCOT has a 5-6 order wait list for the rear arches. so its either I buy a shrinker/stretcher or go with the cut outs from 4wheelAuto. but I have read on here some people don't like them.

is there other options??

SOR looks like the best price for my valance and rh fender.

 

[Deny]

BB,
I think people were not happy with the 70 series replacement panels, I don't know if the 60 panels are made at the same place, you should look into that farther before you shrug them off.
Cheers,
Deny

 

[Greg_B]

I know Spenser was talking about 60 panels at one point. I don't know if he has the jigs for them now, but shoot him a note and see: http://www.canadacruisers.com

I think the comments about 4wheels might have been the 70 stuff as well, but not sure. Call Dan and see.

gb

 

[Greg_B]

I guess that accounts for all the fiberglass boats sitting at the bottom of lakes and oceans eh?...

hehe....

That said, Poo is an abortion of fiberglass cloth, 2-part epoxy, (Aqua-set) more cloth, then aqua-set, then a topping of waterproof bondo on cloth, then more aqua-set, cloth...etc...topped off with two cans of hurculiner...

Seems to be holding up well so far. Not the cachet of metal...thats for sure...and stay away with your magnets please

gb

 

[Technikev]

You don't need no stinkin stretcher/shrinker. Hammer and dolly, my friend. hammer and dolly. And I guess a torch.

And for the record, if you choose to go with silver, I think it would look fine with the brown interior. and so would white.

anyway, just my two cents. Good luck with your project.

-kevin

 

[brownbear]

I know Spenser was talking about 60 panels at one point. I don't know if he has the jigs for them now, but shoot him a note and see: http://www.canadacruisers.com

I think the comments about 4wheels might have been the 70 stuff as well, but not sure. Call Dan and see.

gb

I just left a msg, will see.

their website only mentions 40 series items...

 

[brownbear]

The ones at 4wheel are the whole arch. I don't need the whole piece. As my rust is only the rear half. so I might be able to weld in new pieces that I make.

Hammer and dolly eh? with a piece of wood for jig.......

 

[crushers]

OR, you could a set of these:
http://www.gozzardcomposites.com/60series.html

http://www.gozzardcomposites.com/images/GC107.jpg

sweet ass stuff... use epoxy to adhere and you are off to the races...
cheers

 

[Technikev]

yeah, to shrink, heat cherry red with torch and cool rapidly with water (wet sponge or towel or whatever). Hammer on metal which is on dolly to stretch and form to shape. I know the hammer/dolly stuff doesn't make sense right away, but it flattens and spreads the metal out. Trust me it works, but is a bit of an art to make perfect. Sheet metal stretches fairly easliy, just check out all those door dings you got in the Walmart parking lot. Practice, practice...

-Kevin

 

[brownbear]

OR, you could a set of these:
http://www.gozzardcomposites.com/60series.html

http://www.gozzardcomposites.com/images/GC107.jpg

sweet ass stuff... use epoxy to adhere and you are off to the races...
cheers

hey read the post i first said. I mentioned the gozzard flares already, thats what I thought you were talking about..... bubbles and collects water.

so I got the rear window out. real simple doing it the way you said. It all made sense once I started. thanks

so now I am removing the rh front fender. I started by removing the inner fender. now when I remove the fender do I have to remove the support for the rad?

Also do I cut the bonded part on the top of the fender or does that structural part that mounts to the air box come with it??. Since I don't have the new fender here yet to see how much is part of the fender I am not sure.

its moving along. tonight I removed the rear upper tail gate and started on the fender. Its a slow go doing it after work. But I imagine a month and half of a few hours day work.

 

[crushers]

the upper and outer fender are one peice.

what i have experienced is PO buggered up attempts to extend the life of their trucks using the "Canadian Tire" special patch kits and when the moisture gets behind the fibeglass between the fiberglass and steel, it rusts bad and huge chunks of fiberglass fall of.

the gozzard panels when the recieving areas are prepped properly and are bonded properly are very strong. he also makes uppers and loer tail gates and i think doors as well but not sure...

good to see you are getting progress made. what better things to do on a long cold winters night then suck in steel dust and fiberglass fumes, eh?
;^)
cheers

 

[brownbear]

After a little thinking I decided on wheel arches from 4Wheel. I asked about how they were to put on and told them I heard that they were "maybe not as great a fit" but Dan had said that on the 60 panels he had no complaints. So who ever did complain about them should make it known to them.

But I bought them. I have a time line. So maybe on another project I can try the hammer and dolly.

But I still have to make my inner portion. that will be a hammer and torch fit.

Tonight I will do a little constructive grinding here and there. Also remove the front valance and rh fender.

Wayne you never had a old PS crank pulley handy to sell did you? I am still looking.