The BJ60 gets repainted and repaired

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i get the local glass shop to do all my reinstalls on the 60 series wagons... for the few bucks they charge then it is their problem if the glass breaks or if the headlinner is a PITA to get back on...
money well spent as far as i am concerned...
 
ok I agree, I will get them to install, cheap insurance...

but as I was wondering, does the chrome ring have to come out.? also to pull the windshield am I looking at doing the same method...?

thanks.
 
removed the factory roof rack, time for the new cargo large stlye one.

also spent the day removing rubber or ashphalt under coating from the wheel wells. that stuff is nasty. i spent a few hours just using a putty knife and chipping away. then I got crafty and put a 3 inch wire wheel on the grinder and went to town. Got it all out, first well only!! ya not a big fan of that stuff. uch.

but on a good note, only a little surface corrosion. easy to clean up. the bracket area for the back seat attach is looking good.

when I am all done it will get POR-15 painted and colour matched to the outside. none of this nasty rubber undercoating. unless I decide to hippo liner the wells. But I think if I were to sell(which I am not) it might come across as view to hiding the condition. so I prefer not to.

I also tryed fitting the wheel arches. not easy. but since I am only going to use the rear half it is a little better. But as noted by Dan it is a patch panel not a replacement panel. so I imagine extensive fitting would be required. as well as using the dolly and hammer to help some of the lines. the front half looks like a lot more of a challenge. lucky my rust is rear only....... for now. but I will keep the forward half handy for that time.

the part I cut out of the panel to use will work quite nicely.

oh and fjbj,
you can use a little aircraft sheet metal skills, just not the riveting part. But I did find my rivet gun with a flat snap quite handy. I did a little practice forming using my bumper and the gun. almost like a english wheel. in Theory only. I find I can get a lot of control using the gun. alot more than my hammer.

when I took the basic they make me do some forming, but it was with O alum. but the sheetmetal I purchased is pretty malable.

but I wouldn't want to make a whole panel. too much work.

any got a name for some structural adhesive for attaching my inner fender repair panels? I was thinking of welding, but thought a strong glue might be better. some aviation ones come to mind. but they were not really intended for that purpose.
what would a auto body shop use?
 
Ok, update time...

I have been into the welding and prep stage.
as seen in the pic I have welded in the rh arch.

not bad. but does still req hammer and dolly to fit perfect.

right now I am doing the Por-15 to the entire piece/ I am between coats.

notice the changed lines of the rear quarter panel. I plan on a wrap around bumper design. less over hang Maybe?

I broke down and bought a mig welder when C-tire had them on sale. I got a mig pak 15 or Lincoln sp175. with regulator and bottle, pushing 1100.

mig was on sale for 599. defiantely worth it in this kinda project.

next I am going to weld 2x3 1/8 sqaure to the rocker area.

As far as turbo' install. I got all the crap for the install. Just waiting for the time. Trying to get the body sh_t out of the way.. mech after. Snow and cold are not good for painting. so the earlier the better. sept is coming.

I might just get a local autobody guy to do the final spray. I have been spraying the por-15. not too bad. thats one tought paint.!

no sh_t like powder coat in can.

Lucky my wheel wells are clean. but I still got 2 fronts to deal with. and some perferation on the lh front fender.

ok gotta get back at it.......weekends go very quickly.

cheers
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looking good bud, best get at it, winter is going to be a bear this year...
cheers
 
Just a quick question while you're at it, what's the frame like (especially the inside edges at the rear and where the shock mount tube ties into)? The '60 series frames seem much more prone to rust than the older frames.
 
cruiser_guy said:
Just a quick question while you're at it, what's the frame like (especially the inside edges at the rear and where the shock mount tube ties into)? The '60 series frames seem much more prone to rust than the older frames.
Click to expand...

where the tube goes is fine. but the back channel is rotten, I have welded the spring perches on and the body mount, have ground out the rivets, not I am prying the channel out. will make a new channel and bolt it in instead of rivets.

but my frame is actually pretty good and solid. Its as well getting Por-15 everywhere I can reach, then flooded with rust inhibitor in the frame and everything coated.

for Greg_B, you bet, respirator and other ppd's. No fooling with that paint. its not house latex.

I will post up the pic of the por on the whole panel after.
 
Did you find something to get the adhesive off? You could just sand it off when you are sanding the vehicle or try something like Googone or Orangel. These citrus based solvents just dissolve the glue and you can wipe it off. your C-tire should have something like this. As for a pre paint wipe, Try Dupont's wash and wipe. It gets all the stuff off the body before you paint. Basically just cleans it up nice. You won't need this if you don't paint it yourself, but it's a good, mild solvent that won't damage primers or paint or melt off your fingers.

As far as your windshield goes, I would be tempted to remove it. Sand around the W/S frame and do a quick mask around the opening. Get a rattle can of paint the same color as what you plan to paint your cruiser. Or if you have a compressor and a spray gun, just mix up a bit and use that. Just spray the colour around the frame where it will be covered by the W/S and back 4-5 inches over the body. After it dries, put your glass back in and mask around the rubber. You will still have to sand this new paint around the windshield, but it's not much and is easy to do by hand. This way if you bugger your masking a bit or when your gasket shrinks 5 years down the road you don't see the wonderful brown colour peeking out. Plus you get the chance to fix any rust that may be lurking under there. This will work with any window you remove.

BTW, when did Smithers get a Canadian Tire? Geez, I've been away too long...

-Kevin
 
not sure when smithers got a cnd tire. its been here since I got here.

dupont wash n wipe is what I got. Thx

as far as the windshield goes.....well I am leaving it in. its a new window I just had installed 2months prior. and they broke the first attempt. so not really that into removing it. This is a clean up for myself. But I don't see any rust or anything near the seal. I sanded really good to the edge. so hopefully it doesn't back off. The truck is going to be white, so touch ups arn't a prob.

here's some of the shots of the POr-15. I want to seal the entire truck. I want the paint job to last. I have sand blasted almost everything near the welds and sanded the painted surface really rough. The Por-15 filled in the rough surfaces really well. next is restrogrip filler on the weld areas and then tie coat primer(high build). then touch up with straightline filler(very sandable)

the surfaces were treated with all the por goodies. so fingers crossed that I might not have holes in few years time. afterward the inside fenders and areas will be oiled. as well the well wheel inners rhino lined. as well the lower aft quarter panel areas.
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basically i went black to start and grey to finish. on a area wanted black(frame/front end) I would do the opposite, grey start , 2nd coat black after.

its for paint conservation. other wise I might run out of one before the other.

heres the front rad support before and after
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very nice
 
Do you have a CDN source for POR, BTW amazing job you are doing, it looks like it will be better then new, at least keeping the rust off the Tub.

as for your frame, is it oily? are you gonna try and clean out and paint the inside somehow?

A good scraping and cleaning out of the inside, and a krown every year at least will surprize you what it will do, whatever you decide, I can't wait to see pics.

how much do you have into this

money and or time?

Cheer
Eric
 
ya thats the CND distributer of POR , more importantly the business name is Stevens Auto Electric. The contact is Jamie, he is their most knowledgeable por man.

Money, a few thou, time I would think a couple hundred hours. Hard to tell, I just do a little and call it a night.

Lately I have been on hold, I am waiting to turn my carport into a garage, my door is on order and I am anxiously awaiting it. Then I will be insulated and happy.

At first my goal was by snowfall. Well I have gone in deeper than expected and want to do it right, right takes time.

All my welds are fully sandblasted after and cleaned with etch before POR, I do not want a return of any kind of rust.

The frame is getting exteior POR and interior oil, after the por cures it will get a corrosion inhibitor as well.

Oh ya I am full believer in oiling vehicles.

I will post up more pics as time goes. Thanks for the support guys!
 
Well, I totally blew getting this truck done in the winter. So here I am again in the summer working away. My goal is to drive it to Cruiser days in Aug. Hopefully.

So I am going to sho a few things I have working on lately.

Currently the whole front engine bay is 98% complete. I have installed the turbo, york air, rebuilt the inner fenders(mostly cleaning and a little welding), installed two new front fenders(RH non usa, lh FJ style but welded over port) and to top is off most of truck has been extremely well cleaned roughed up and painted with Por-15 as my primer.

I have a bit more work(body) on the rear quarter panels, and a bit on the rockers. The the body gets painted with tie coat primer and then sanded prior to sealer and white paint.

Had the engine running last night. I checked for oil leaks, and also oil flow to the pan from the turbo. It was quite good. I also ran the york air compressor, lots of airflow. I bought the york last year and just got it on. Thanks to Sheldon and Greg for the pulley :) . Also the middle blank has been mailed back to you guys.

I have a decent tank I have to install, and I have a 90-120 pressure sw. I also did an oil passage mod to the york so the oil stays inside it.

The lowest part of the york is still above the bump stop on that side. It was a tight fit. I had to custom make all my brackets. It was a frustrating weekend fabbin it up. That thing is heavy, and it is an awkward spot. :)

Also you can see the gauges I installed last year. Not too bad a spot, but I wish I had them higher up.

The doors are also next to be stripped, treated and por'd. I have not even touched them yet. But they are in good shape. No holes.

Heres some pictures.
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