Awesome pictures! Colorado Land Cruisers is based out of Colorado Springs, but I'm sure there's something up near Denver though.
The Adventures of Chungus (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Roketdriver
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If a Ram on swampers got stuck, is it really a moderate trail?
Pretty easy trail for the most part. He drove right into the bottomless mudhole in a fit of redneck impulse--not really part of the trail, just a diversion for people who enjoy such things
You should check out Rising Sun 4x4 club. They're the ones that organize Cruise Moab each year. www.risingsun4x4club.org
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- #23
I ordered a Koyo radiator thorough Amazon, along with a new thermostat and seal. Should be a great Christmas, swapping a rad in the driveway. The HOA loves when we wrench in the open.
I've been working on my intermittent P0401 and P0171 codes. I'm going to be making a venn diagram of the issues that are common with both fault codes and start with what overlaps. Might do the fuel filter and EGR first. The new VSV reduced the frequency of P0401 but didn't eliminate it. Throttle body cleaning and a new air filter are also on the list.
A vacuum test from an independent shop pointed toward a bad injector seal? I don't want to be tearing in too far since I do need to commute in the LX.
Continuing the adventure component of the thread, this past weekend I braved the snowstorm to photograph Vicksburg, a preserved "ghost town" just outside of Buena Vista.
I drove in Friday night. Saw one Elk bull and a herd of Mule Deer on the way in. It was disappointing that it was too dark to get photos. Such is life.
Vicksburg at 5am is quite eery. The snow made it uncomfortably quiet. I don't think it has the reputation of being haunted, but I still was uneasy. The photos turned out well though, despite the heavy snowfall.
These Konig chains did great in the snow. I was on fresh powder, deep enough to have my axles dragging at points. Definitely worth the investment.
I wheeled around for a bit after the sun came up and shot a few landscapes. Nice morning to cut some fresh tracks.
Can't wait to get back out there.
I've been working on my intermittent P0401 and P0171 codes. I'm going to be making a venn diagram of the issues that are common with both fault codes and start with what overlaps. Might do the fuel filter and EGR first. The new VSV reduced the frequency of P0401 but didn't eliminate it. Throttle body cleaning and a new air filter are also on the list.
A vacuum test from an independent shop pointed toward a bad injector seal? I don't want to be tearing in too far since I do need to commute in the LX.
Continuing the adventure component of the thread, this past weekend I braved the snowstorm to photograph Vicksburg, a preserved "ghost town" just outside of Buena Vista.
I drove in Friday night. Saw one Elk bull and a herd of Mule Deer on the way in. It was disappointing that it was too dark to get photos. Such is life.
Vicksburg at 5am is quite eery. The snow made it uncomfortably quiet. I don't think it has the reputation of being haunted, but I still was uneasy. The photos turned out well though, despite the heavy snowfall.
These Konig chains did great in the snow. I was on fresh powder, deep enough to have my axles dragging at points. Definitely worth the investment.
I wheeled around for a bit after the sun came up and shot a few landscapes. Nice morning to cut some fresh tracks.
Can't wait to get back out there.
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- #24
I didn't take a ton of photos while swapping the radiator today. I was too focused on the task at hand.
Everything came apart and went back together without any hiccups. I got lucky with the weather and had sun throughout the day. While I was in there I also replaced the thermostat.
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You changed a VSV?
Was this the VSV under the manifold?
The 2 vacuum hoses from the throttle body, pull off the hoses and shoot carb cleaner or brake cleaner through the metal vacuum hose nipples. This would remove the PCV crud that can plug the small vacuum orifice(s) inside the valve body.
There is a fiber filter under the inside of the EGR vacuum modulator (small cap on top) cap, that can be cleaned. Just pull off the small cap take out the fiber disk and run under the faucet. When you put it back, you can change the position of the filter to a clean area.
Also, clean the EGR temp sensor. It develops a hard to remove baked on coating that creates false temp readings (lends itself to egr flow) Usually requires a wire wheel to clean. If you have a vacuum tool, you can exercise the EGR valve, Or find a vacuum port on the engine with strong constant constant vacuum and connect directly to the EGR valve. This will move the pintel valve in the EGR in/out. The engine will misfire or die. Also a good sign its working correctly. I've worked on several rigs with the p0401 code. The most likely culprit is the VSV. However, depending on how long the VSV was not working, would cause a build up in the EGR valve. Using a hand vacuum tool or mitivac tool or strong engine vacuum from another hose will force the EGR valve to open/close. Least likely; there are a lot of other vacuum hoses. There might be a secondary leak in ERG vacuum circuit.
Un-related:
When you swapped the radiator, did you replace with toyota red coolant, or after market red (supports Toyota) coolant? It needs to be the red stuff.
Was this the VSV under the manifold?
The 2 vacuum hoses from the throttle body, pull off the hoses and shoot carb cleaner or brake cleaner through the metal vacuum hose nipples. This would remove the PCV crud that can plug the small vacuum orifice(s) inside the valve body.
There is a fiber filter under the inside of the EGR vacuum modulator (small cap on top) cap, that can be cleaned. Just pull off the small cap take out the fiber disk and run under the faucet. When you put it back, you can change the position of the filter to a clean area.
Also, clean the EGR temp sensor. It develops a hard to remove baked on coating that creates false temp readings (lends itself to egr flow) Usually requires a wire wheel to clean. If you have a vacuum tool, you can exercise the EGR valve, Or find a vacuum port on the engine with strong constant constant vacuum and connect directly to the EGR valve. This will move the pintel valve in the EGR in/out. The engine will misfire or die. Also a good sign its working correctly. I've worked on several rigs with the p0401 code. The most likely culprit is the VSV. However, depending on how long the VSV was not working, would cause a build up in the EGR valve. Using a hand vacuum tool or mitivac tool or strong engine vacuum from another hose will force the EGR valve to open/close. Least likely; there are a lot of other vacuum hoses. There might be a secondary leak in ERG vacuum circuit.
Un-related:
When you swapped the radiator, did you replace with toyota red coolant, or after market red (supports Toyota) coolant? It needs to be the red stuff.
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- #27
It was under the manifold - the one that requires a bracket to be moved and some awkward reaching and light cursing. I'll start working though the listed EGR cleaning as time allows. If it's an indicator of emissions system/vehicle health, last weekend I took a long road trip and managed 16mpg.
When I bought the LX, it had the green stuff in it. I know this is a hotly debated topic - but after reading through a number of 'Mud threads on coolant, it seems to be the consensus that green is fine as long as it isn't mixed with the red. It came out clean and bright, I suspect it was flushed when it was put into inventory at the car lot. I put new Prestone green in and feel comfortable running it. I also run it in my Miata, which was built in a similar manner - aluminum head and radiator core. I'm of the opinion that as long as it's not dexcool or alcohol based, I should be fine.
Green Coolant is ok. Just look for signs of degradation after 2 years. Also, if you haven't already done so. Please consider the pesky heater hose (not my name). It's a small 2" piece of heater hose under the intake manifold. Often over looked, until it lets go.....climbing that hill or cruising through the desert. Use a flash light or mirror to check the condition. The 2" version is somewhat of a pain to do. The long version is much easier.
This SITE has the replacement hose. There are 2 solutions offered. Replace the 2" hose, or remove the connecting pipe, and run a hose directly from your heater valve.
If you search PHH (pesky heater hose) on Mud. There are many stories and discussions.
This SITE has the replacement hose. There are 2 solutions offered. Replace the 2" hose, or remove the connecting pipe, and run a hose directly from your heater valve.
If you search PHH (pesky heater hose) on Mud. There are many stories and discussions.
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- #30
Chungus is derived from an internet meme that was in circulation a while back. It just seemed like a fitting name for a big, heavy 4x4
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- #31
Not a ton has been happening lately. I replaced both the hood and trunk struts, I got tired of fearing for the safety of my head.
Also ordered the xtreme silicone PHH kit today. I'm not leaking coolant, but with some great weather coming this weekend I figured I'd just knock it out before it becomes an issue.
Oh, and I went ice racing! Was I fast? No. Did I have fun? Absolutley. And I learned a few things about how Chungus responds on zero grip surfaces. If you ever get the opportunity to play around on a frozen lake, I highly recommend it!
Also ordered the xtreme silicone PHH kit today. I'm not leaking coolant, but with some great weather coming this weekend I figured I'd just knock it out before it becomes an issue.
Oh, and I went ice racing! Was I fast? No. Did I have fun? Absolutley. And I learned a few things about how Chungus responds on zero grip surfaces. If you ever get the opportunity to play around on a frozen lake, I highly recommend it!
I'd return the silicone PHH and get a good rubber one. That's a job you only want to do once, and the silicone ones are known to develop small leaks after a couple years.
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- #33
Interesting. They're advertised as a lifetime fix, this isn't the case?
Sorry if I opened a can of worms.
There is some debate on the topic but the general idea is that while the silicone hose itself will potentially last forever, it won't hold leak-free forever. Some say coolant may actually weep through the membrane, but also it's much more prone to leaks at the clamps. Rubber actually bonds to the parts it's in contact with making it pretty much leak-proof until the rubber degrades in 15-20 years. No need to use and/or periodically check fancy hose clamps. Most use Gates green stripe hose or OEM toyota rubber these days. And some folks that installed all the silicone hoses have torn them off and gone back to rubber. If you research older threads, pretty much everyone was on the silicone boat back 10-15 years ago, but conventional wisdom (or MUD herd mentality? ) has migrated back to rubber.
There is some debate on the topic but the general idea is that while the silicone hose itself will potentially last forever, it won't hold leak-free forever. Some say coolant may actually weep through the membrane, but also it's much more prone to leaks at the clamps. Rubber actually bonds to the parts it's in contact with making it pretty much leak-proof until the rubber degrades in 15-20 years. No need to use and/or periodically check fancy hose clamps. Most use Gates green stripe hose or OEM toyota rubber these days. And some folks that installed all the silicone hoses have torn them off and gone back to rubber. If you research older threads, pretty much everyone was on the silicone boat back 10-15 years ago, but conventional wisdom (or MUD herd mentality?
) has migrated back to rubber.
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- #35
Thanks for opening the can! I've contacted the seller to exchange the silicone for a Gates green hose.
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- #36
Two weekends ago I took a long weekend and checked out Moab. What a spectacular place! I ran some easy trails (something near Klondike Flats, Chicken Corners, and nameless BLM roads), hiked a little, and camped two nights. I'll definitely be going back.
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- #37
My second day in Moab the check engine light started coming on a lot more frequently, codes P0171 and P0401 every time I started the engine, and P0130 and P0133 made one appearance.
I did some research on Mud after I got home and started troubleshooting. I found the problem pretty quickly, the intake hose was shot. I ran it with some duct tape covering the crack and the codes did not return.
It was pretty bad:
I'm hoping the replacement I bought lasts a while. I had Amazon overnight a Dorman "OEM Equivalent" and installed it today. Hopefully this will be the end of that warm amber glow coming from the cluster.
I took a look at my throttle body while the tube was off. Am I due for a cleaning or does this look ok?
I also noticed a puddle of coolant above the thermostat, is this a common place for a leak? I'll have to address this when I get around to doing the PHH. I've got the green stripe hose in the trunk but I've been too busy to tear into the LX.
I did some research on Mud after I got home and started troubleshooting. I found the problem pretty quickly, the intake hose was shot. I ran it with some duct tape covering the crack and the codes did not return.
It was pretty bad:
I'm hoping the replacement I bought lasts a while. I had Amazon overnight a Dorman "OEM Equivalent" and installed it today. Hopefully this will be the end of that warm amber glow coming from the cluster.
I took a look at my throttle body while the tube was off. Am I due for a cleaning or does this look ok?
I also noticed a puddle of coolant above the thermostat, is this a common place for a leak? I'll have to address this when I get around to doing the PHH. I've got the green stripe hose in the trunk but I've been too busy to tear into the LX.
There are 2 O-rings that seal the lower section of that piece. There is a sleeve you pull out once the pipe is removed. The FZJ80 is not known to leak unless a seal gives out.
You have refreshed the cooling circuit. The cooling parts you replaced will bring the coolant pressure into spec (slightly higher). This is known to cause a borderline seal or hose to let go. Squeeze your hoses listen for crunching sounds or hardness.
You have refreshed the cooling circuit. The cooling parts you replaced will bring the coolant pressure into spec (slightly higher). This is known to cause a borderline seal or hose to let go. Squeeze your hoses listen for crunching sounds or hardness.
You will need 3 of the o-rings to do the job.
I have heard the cheap replacement intake hoses have a tendency to collapse under full throttle. Just something to be aware of.
